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The Most Beautiful Place in Nova Scotia?  – Postcards from Canada

Cape Sable Island, Shelburne, Kejimkujik National Park – Seaside

Hello everyone.  I am currently in Halifax (my last morning here), and would like to get this post out after many trials and tribulations tech-wise (both my camera and iPad have been acting wonky – yesterday I went to the Apple Store, Best Buy, two Walmarts, and Henrys Cameras, with limited success at solving the issues, and that’s not how I wanted to spend my time in Halifax!).  It’s been a bit of an odd time here in Nova Scotia, with some low energy and spirits on my part, which is not surprising considering how much activity and excitement I experienced on PEI and Les Îles-de-la-Madeleine.  Also, I have been on the road for quite a while now, so a bit of road fatigue is to be expected.  But, I have definitely seen some beautiful places here, and have visited excellent museums where I really connected emotionally with the history.  (Posts (hopefully) to come in the future!)  For now, I’d like to jump ahead to a very special place that may very well be the most beautiful place in Nova Scotia.  This opinion is subjective, of course, especially since I have seen just a very tiny fraction of what this province has to offer with all of its varied landscapes, but to me it was perfection.  Let me take you there, with a few stops, first, on the way…

After a day of sightseeing down the Fundy coast, and with some great long-weekend-holiday-Monday classic rock playing on the radio as I drove a very fun and scenic, curving coastal road, I arrived at Cape Sable Island, via a causeway, to see the tallest lighthouse in Nova Scotia.  Uh, it’s way out there, accessible only by sea!

Okay, so I didn’t do my research well enough!  I was still happy to be on the island, and I found a convenient picnic table by the sea for my dinner (with the lighthouse, teeny-tiny in the very far distance). 

It was a peaceful place, and there were some lovely photos to be had as a I walked out to a dock over the water,

and looked back over a calm bay. 

I chatted with a local couple who were out for a drive, and they told me that sometimes people camp at a local beach parking lot so I went to Hawk Beach, with its long stretch of white sand on one side, and a high bench of cobbles on the other,

but I didn’t think that it was a good spot to overnight. I then checked out the beach parking at Daniel’s Head which looked to be perfect.  It was still early evening, so I walked down the beach a ways,

 and then a long way up the beach,

enjoying the breeze and the sound of the sea and gulls.  On the return, I watched piping plovers hunting for food at the tide line.  They nest in the nearby dune area, and it seemed like the adults were supervising their young as they moved back and forth between patches of seaweed.

As the sun set, I assessed the situation (I have been camping in established campgrounds and it was only my second time on this trip to camp stealth) – two other SUVs, a respectable-looking van, and a smallish motor home.  The other occupants and I gave each other nods of acknowledgment that meant, “Yes, staying the night”, and so I settled in for a very good sleep as night fell and fog started to roll in from the sea.  The next morning, this is the sun rising, above the dune behind my car, and through the fog.

I was the first up, made breakfast quietly, and then went for a morning beach walk.  I crossed over the dune to this view,

and began my walk up the beach.

Fishing boats were just visible on the horizon,

and past the rocks,

a group of seals seemed to be dozing, with a few slowly waking up.

As I walked, I was diverted by the beautiful forms and colours of seaweed and shells on the beach,

and by glances back to the sun on the water.

I did not want to stop! But, there were more places to see so eventually, reluctantly, I turned back, returned to my car, and headed to my planned stop at the town of Shelburne. Known for its historic waterfront, Shelburne has many beautiful old homes and buildings, including 17 homes that were built before 1800. In 1783, after the American Revolution, around 400 families, loyal to England, moved here as a group to settle in British-controlled Nova Scotia, and many more followed in subsequent years to establish a community of fishers and ship builders.

The orange building, Coyle House, was built in 1784, and the light blue house beyond it was built in 1785.

The elegant Matthew Dripps House was also built in 1785,

as was the very large Ross Thomson House.

There were other beautifully restored and maintained buildings on the waterfront, including the Shelburne Barrel Factory, which is said to be the last working, privately-owned cooperage in Canada, and for 41 years it was run by the only female cooper in the world.

There was also the Dory Shop Museum building,

and so many characterful wooden houses to see.

I really enjoyed my walk here, in the quiet of the morning, on a beautiful day, and was glad that I had arrived on the early side when just a few others were around – locals walking their dogs, and shops just opening.

Again, I wanted to linger, and stay a while, but I carried on to my next planned stop, a hike to the sea in Kejimkujik National Park – Seaside. By the time I arrived at the trailhead, it was getting close to high noon, and was very warm. I had already walked a fair bit that morning, at the beach and in Shelburne, so I decided that I would just do the 2.6 km trail in and along a short section of coast, take a few photos, and hike straight back out again. The first two kilometres were on a level trail, surfaced with crush which I hate because of the noise it makes, but the views and the plants kept me happy, especially the wild roses which have been a constant for me on this cross-Canada trip. I have seen them in every province, and their bright pink colour and gorgeous scent always cheer and enliven me.

There were also bog plants, which I love, including pitcher plants and a white orchid that was new to me and very delicate and pretty.

And then I arrived at this view, and saw a long white beach in the distance, stretching out far along the coast.

I descended to the first sandy cove,

and then chose to walk south to the next small cove,

with its large rounded stones, some stained by algae.

The stones were so fun to walk and balance on, and I stopped often when my attention was caught by interesting lines, textures, and shapes.

There were small seaweed-covered rocks off-shore,

including one for the birds,

and I made my way carefully over the slippery seaweed for this shot of a balancing rock.

I turned back north to begin the return trail, but that long bright white sand beach was still stretched out in the distance so I just had to go that way. I crossed the sandy beach of the first cove and found the trail that led over rocks and a short boardwalk, past the iconic National Park red chairs, and then on to the next little cove.

The rocks were so beautiful!

The trees, the curves of sand, the colour of the water, and the plants were all beautiful. I was beyond thrilled, and everything that I saw, far and near, was exquisite and perfect. I walked,

and walked,

and walked,

and stopped for a closer view of these amazing plantains, growing in a few inches of sand, just metres from the sea.

The next cove was gorgeous,

the granite rocks were veined with quartz and sparkling flakes of mica,

and this view nearly stopped my heart!

Seriously, I was in love, and ecstasy, and awe. I continued on,

and on,

until I finally stopped here,

atop a large mound of sun-warmed granite to have a rest and a snack and to look at the sea and the expanse ahead.

I lay down for a while, my face tucked away from the sun and under my hat, and I think that I slept for a few moments. As on my morning fog-beach walk, and my time in Shelburne, I didn’t want to leave. I wanted to go further. But, of course, eventually, (or almost always), a return is necessary, so I set off, back south, so incredibly grateful to have seen this extraordinarily beautiful place. I took photos on the way back, and will include a few in this collage,

but this deer will get a full frame, even though she is distant and not well-lit or in good focus. What a lovely surprise she was, browsing there in what felt, to me, to possibly be the most beautiful place in all of Nova Scotia.

Now, it is well past morning, and I want to visit the Immigration Museum in Halifax before I leave for my next destination. I think that I may not be able to post again on this cross-Canada trip, as time, etc. is very limited and technical issues still plague me. Tomorrow, I am off to Cape Breton Island, but sadly all Nova Scotia trails have been closed due to extreme fire risk. (They were ordered closed as of 4 p.m. on the day that I visited Kejimkujik – thank goodness that I was able to visit that magnificent place!). So, I will spend a bit less time in Nova Scotia than I had initially planned. After Cape Breton, I may revisit PEI for a few days to see a few places that I wanted to see and missed, and to have a last swim at a favourite beach. Then, it’s off to the north coast of New Brunswick (with lots of seascapes to look forward to there), a drive around the Gaspé Peninsula, visits to relatives in Northern Quebec, and then, finally, homeward….

Thank you so much for following along on these few Postcards from Canada posts – I appreciate the company!

All the best, Christine. XXoo

Orkney and Shetland, June 2024

A Quick Trip to Egilsay – St Magnus Way and Church, RSPB Onziebust Nature Reserve, and Eastside Beaches

On my last full day on Rousay I took a morning ferry to the nearby small island of Egilsay where I would have four hours on the island before the next return ferry. On Saturdays and Sundays, this ferry service is only available on prior request. I wasn’t willing to request an entire ferry just for me, but after enquiring I learned that the ferry had already been requested and so I was able to go. It was another beautiful morning – hurray! – and I headed down to the ferry terminal early to visit the Rousay Heritage Centre which has some displays about the history and flora and fauna of the island. Back outside I admired the sailboats at anchor off shore and the view of the hills from the far end of the pier.

Here comes the boat! Vehicles that take this ferry need to drive onto the deck in reverse, but there were no vehicles driving either off or on this morning.

Up in the passenger lounge I met Gerard, a Dutchman who had requested the ferry as he was starting his walk on the St Magnus Way which begins on Egilsay. We were the only two passengers! It felt odd to have the entire ferry operating just for the two of us, but I was grateful that Gerard had requested it or else I would have been unable to visit the island. Gerard led mountaineering trips in the Alps for thirty years, and he has walked many long distance trails, chiefly in Scotland and Spain, so we had lots to talk about. We landed at the Egilsay pier and this was the view over to Rousay (the tall lone windmill located at the Heart of Rousay Boardwalk is just visible on a hill on the left side of the photo).

This was the curving beach just north of the pier with an enticing-looking headland beyond.

I started up the road (a little ahead of Gerard as we both like walking alone), and this was an early view of St Magnus Church, seen from across a field full of tiny buttercups and daisies.

St Magnus’ Church was built in the late 12th century on the site of a much older church. The tall round tower is reminiscent of round towers found in Ireland except for the tapering of the shape. The tower is fifteen metres high but it was originally twenty metres and would have had five or six stories inside.

I walked all around the church and inside. I loved the colour of the stones and the irregularity of their shapes and placements.

Inside the sanctuary of the church there were two small recessed shelves. There was an old nest tucked into the back of one, and a new nest in the other with eggs in it! Sadly my photo did not turn out well. I had plenty of time on the island, and I wasn’t planning to walk far, so I sat for a while on a bench seat in a corner of the church yard, protected a bit from the wind by the high stone fence. I enjoyed my views of the church, the sea, sky, and Rousay in the distance.

I left the church via a track, with this view back. I was officially walking on St Magnus’ Way, a  58 mile pilgrimage route through Mainland Orkney, inspired by the life and death of Magnus, Orkney’s patron saint.

I turned onto another track which led to the crossroads of the island. At present, less than thirty people live on Egilsay.

Then a left turn led me due east towards the sea. The bird life here was amazing! I was walking through a part of the RSPB Onziebust Nature Reserve which covers more than 55 percent of the island, in cooperation with island farmers. Curlews and oyster catchers were rising into the air noisily as I walked, but not just because of me. There were gulls about, flying low over the fields likely looking for eggs or chicks, and I saw two small hawks that I think were Kestrels hovering and swooping as they hunted. I loved watching them. Small birds sang from somewhere out of sight or sometimes on fence posts, and I’m quite sure that I saw several Arctic terns fly in from the sea.

I stopped often to watch the birds, but I didn’t do any photography as I was eager to get to the beach while the sky was still blue because…..it looks like this!

What a beautiful beach! And here was the view to the south.

I headed north up the beach and didn’t get far before stopping to admire the angled rock formations, decorated with sea pinks and bright yellow lichen.

This was the next beach on, and then another after that. Wow!

The sky to the west was starting to darken so I headed back to the first beach to have my lunch and I met up with Gerard who kindly took my picture.

There he goes, off to explore the north beaches.

There is more walking to be had on the island, south down the main road, but I decided to spend my time here, sitting quietly and looking out to sea, waiting for the birds and other wildlife to say hello. A grey seal came by for a peek at me, and a small flock of shore birds landed on the beach for a few minutes to quickly scamper over the sand and seaweed before lifting off again. One stayed a minute or two longer than the rest.

The sky was just as mesmerizing as the waves and the shifting colours of the sea. While I watched rain fall in the distance, dark clouds approached from behind and surprised me with sudden rain and then an onslaught of hail. But, I had my trusty umbrella with me and sat huddled beneath it, quite happily dry as I watched the hail fall and bounce off of the beach rocks all around. Ten minutes later it was all done!

I said goodbye to the lovely beach and headed back up the track towards the centre of the island – the tallest hill on Rousay is centred in the distance.

I had attached my zoom lens onto my camera at the beach, but the birds were much quieter now at around noon. The hawks, terns, and gulls were no longer in sight but I did manage these two feeble photos of a curlew and an oyster catcher.

In a field near the track is a monument dedicated to St Magnus that marks the place where he was slain by order of his cousin Earl Hakon. Magnus shared the earldom of Orkney with Hakon and in 1117, at an Easter-time parlay here on Egilsay to resolve differences, Hakon arrived with an army of eight boatloads of men rather than the agreed-upon two boatloads of men each. Magnus – pious, peaceable, and well-liked – was slain by one of Hakon’s men who was forgiven by Magnus prior to the deed being done. The story is told in the Orkneying Saga. (You can hear a narration of the text in this YouTube video: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=C-bBXX8_AB0)

I returned to the crossroads and had some time remaining before the ferry so I spent a few minutes in the island’s wonderful little community centre which is always open for islanders or visitors to enter, make a cup of tea or coffee, use the computer, or maybe even play a game of ping pong. I perused some of the bird books, trying to identify the little bird I had seen on the sand.

Then it was time to return to the pier to catch the ferry. The sky was mostly blue but the wind was still strong and cold so Gerald and I sat and chatted in the small but nicely warm waiting room. I thanked him again for having requested the ferry, so glad that I had had the opportunity to visit wonderful Egilsay.

Here comes the ferry, again just for the two of us!

Back on Rousay, I had planned to hike up to the top of the moor but after four hours outside in the sun and the wind, and despite the small amount of walking I had done, I felt tired and decided to head to my accommodation for a rest, perhaps to do the hike in the early evening. Some rain moved in later in the day, not much, but it was enough to justify my laziness and decision to save that hike for, hopefully, another time. The next morning, I said goodbye to beautiful Rousay and its farms and hills,

and then looked forward out of the ferry window, towards Mainland Orkney and new sights to come.

Orkney and Shetland, June 2024

Visiting the Beautiful Island of Rousay – Neolithic Chambered Cairns, Iron Age Broch, and Stunning Scenery

After my stay in Stromness, I took the ferry from Tingwall, on the east coast of Mainland, to the island of Rousay which is the fifth largest of the Orkney islands and has the second highest hills after Hoy. Roughly circular, farms occupy the lower slopes, close to the sea, while the hilly centre of the island is rather wild with heath and moorland and small lochs. Rousay has more than 160 archaeological sites, and it is rich in flower meadows, birds, and other wildlife. My accommodation (a lovely little self-catering studio suite at Trumland Farm) was located close to the ferry. I settled in and then set off on foot along the main road to visit three Neolithic chambered burial cairns which are located within about two and a half miles of the ferry terminal.

It was a lovely walk, despite the very strong wind and occasional drenching sweeps of rain! (I was prepared though, wearing my waterproofs and armed with a strong umbrella.) In the photo below (centre) is Trumland Farm and to the left is the ferry terminal, with part of the island of Wyre opposite.

As I walked I had fields to my left, sloping down to the sea, and fields to my right sloping up to the heather-covered hills. Curlews and oyster catchers were nesting in the fields and as I passed near they would rise up and fly about noisily, warning me away. These lovely horses, however, were calm and sedate, and barely noted my presence as I walked by. It was great to be alone, on this quiet single-lane road and I was already in love with this island.

The first chambered cairn was Taversoe Tuick which is around 4,500 years old and, unusually, it has two stories, with an upper and lower chamber. There was no one else about and it was thrilling to enter the cairn and descend down a metal ladder from the upper chamber into the lower one. When first discovered, the bones of five people were found here, together with flint, stone tools, and pottery fragments.

The next burial tomb was Blackhammer Cairn, entered through a sliding hatch. It is a stalled cairn, thirteen metres long, with seven compartments. It has been damaged over time but a concrete roof with skylights now protects it. The bones of two individuals were found here and it is believed that the tomb was probably cleared periodically over many centuries. The far end of the mound was rounded, and faced with a large flat stone. I got chills here, but it wasn’t creepy or because of the cold – it was reverential, and a privilege to see the work of people from 5000 years ago as they created these homes for their dead.

The next tomb, the Knowe of Yarso, required a good steep climb up the hillside to reach a level terrace on the moorland, with views of farmland, the sea, and a ferry below.

This cairn was also protected by a concrete roof with skylights, and was in better condition than the last, with higher walls and the slabs of rock dividing the space into chambers were more intact. The bones of 29 individuals were found here, and it is thought that the tomb was in use for at least a thousand years. Again, I felt very privileged to be here, all alone, to walk through this space and imagine the lives of those who built this place.

The following morning dawned brighter than previous days, hurray! Trumland Farm rents bicycles and I splurged on a electric one for the day which was a wise choice given the strong winds and many steep hills on Rousay.

The first stop of my round-the-island tour was at Midhowe Broch and the Midhowe Chambered Cairn. This 5,400 year old chambered cairn is so immense that it is protected by a hanger (the large building at the bottom of the hill, below).

Once inside the hanger there was a bit of a surprise. Catwalks have been built above the cairn, enabling visitors to view the structure from above. The cairn’s passageway is an astonishing 23.6 metres long and features 12 stalled chambers. The upright stones marking the chambers rise to a height of 2 metres and the remaining walls rise to a height of 2.5 metres.

It was thrilling to walk down one side of the catwalk and back along the other. Looking down, one chamber reminded me of the box beds found at Skara Brae.

The remains of 25 people were found here when the site was excavated in 1932. Cattle and sheep bones, antlers, fish bones, shells, worked flint knives, and pots were also found, possibly due to ritual feasting in the space, or possibly placed with the bodies for use in an afterlife. I was rather awestruck by the enormous effort it would have taken to quarry and fit all of the stone for this enormous tomb.

Back outside, the unceasing wind had cleared away a few dark rain clouds – the sky was blue and the coastline ahead was wild and beautiful. Just ahead was Midhowe Broch, the best-preserved of three Iron Age brochs that were built on this section of coast and occupied sometime between 200 BC and 100 AD. Brochs are round defensive residences that are particular to Scotland, and when I visit Shetland I will view the best-persevered of all.

The siting of this Broch is spectacular. It was built on a promontory, with ditches cut through the rock on two sides and also a ditch and rampart on the landward side for defence.

I enjoyed walking around and through the broch. Again I was here all alone, but for the wheeling gulls over the sea and swallows swooping low over the turf.

I headed back towards the chambered cairn hangar,

and then beyond it to view and learn about even more historical sites in this area called Westness.

There were the jumbled remains of a Viking hall (the Wirk), the ruins of 16th century St. Mary’s Church, built on the site of an earlier medieval church, and the ruins of Skaill Farm. The current ruined buildings of the farm date from the early 18th century, but are built atop and amongst many Viking farm buildings and field structures of the early 12th century when Sigurd of Westness ruled here.

There were interpretive panels at each site and it was a lot to take in! Here, an archaeological dig is ongoing. I am so impressed by the painstaking work that archaeologists do to make sense of the structures and artefacts they find, and to try and piece together the very complex story of human occupation and use of the land here over many centuries and even millennia!

But that was enough history for one morning! I left Skaill Farm, and the entire Westness site, very happy with my visit to this incredibly historic and atmospheric place. These sheep wanted their quiet grazing time back, and I had more of the island to discover.

I climbed back up the hill and hopped back on my bicycle to continue my counter-clockwise circuit of the island. There was no traffic to worry about and the fields, hills, and scattered farms were wonderful to take in. Soon I had reached the northwestern part of the island and I stopped for this wonderful view across farm fields to a small loch and beyond it the Bay of Saviskaill where I had read that seals sometimes pull out to rest on the shore. I passed several more farms on my way to the bay, including one with old out buildings deeply covered in yellow lichen. At the beach, the tide was high and the shore was thickly covered in rich mounds of deep burgundy/brown seaweed. I sat and had a light lunch here and watched the gulls and several curious Grey seals who watched me as much as I watched them.

Leaving the bay, I passed the end of the small loch and traversed a bit of boggy ground to get a picture of the yellow iris blooming near the shore. Down low, I saw a purple bog orchid with two very large and fat bumblebees on it. I think that they may have been Great Yellow Bumblebees which were once found throughout the U.K. but are now quite rare and mostly found in northern Scotland and the northern isles. I crouched low for a photo but was not quick enough and they flew off a second before I pressed the shutter so a positive ID can’t be made!

My next stop was at the trailhead for a loop hike of Faraclett Head where Arctic terns and Great Skuas nest. I climbed up a steep hillside and then across sheep-shorn turf, with great views ahead and down towards a small loch situated behind a curving beach.

The walking was great but after only about a kilometre dark rain clouds were approaching fast and so I decided to cut my hike short and retrace my steps. I arrived at my bike just as the rain started and decided to crouch down beside one of the two cars parked at the trailhead. Now one advantage of Orkney’s wind-driven rain is that it comes in at quite an angle, versus straight down, and so I stayed surprisingly dry sitting on the ground against the lee side of the car, knees tucked in to my chest, boots tucked under my waterproof pack. I snacked on a granola bar, shook my head half-admiringly at the rapid changeability of the Orkney weather, and quite enjoyed the sight and sound of the heavy fall of rain around me. Ten minutes later it was all done! I walked to my bike, swept the water off of the seat, and continued on my journey.

My next stop was at the Heart of Rousay Boardwalk. The electric bike was so helpful in getting me up a fairly steep dirt road to the summit of a hill that was topped by one lone and very large windmill. The boardwalk passes over a tufty expanse of cotton grass and heather and provides great views across to the hills at the centre of the island, and also out to the sea, looking towards the island of Egilsay, which was my destination for the following day. A string of circular pens, probably of farmed salmon, was in the sea between the two islands.

I cycled back down the hill, and then continued along on the quiet road, sad that I was nearing the end of my tour around the island. I made one last stop to check out the trailhead for a hike that leads up onto the moors and through the Trumland RSPB Reserve to the highest point on Rousay. I had read that it is a good place to view raptors such as Hen Harriers, Merlins, and Short-eared owls. My reconnaissance done, I took in the view of this beautiful wildflower meadow, with the ferry terminal below and my accommodation just minutes away. What a day! I was definitely in love with Rousay and wishing that I had many more days here to explore and enjoy. It is the kind of island where, of the few cars that passed me on the road, everyone waved.

If I could do it again I would definitely stay on Rousay for at least four or five or seven days as there are more walks to do and places to discover such as a large standing stone, sea stacks, bird colonies, and isolated lochs where red-throated divers nest. But, I still had one more full day here to look forward to, with a planned morning outing to Egilsay and an afternoon hike up on the moor. I was already looking forward to it, and I felt so thankful that I had come to visit the beautiful island of Rousay.

Orkney and Shetland, June 2024

More of Neolithic Orkney and Historic Stromness – The Barnhouse Settlement, Stones of Stenness, Maeshowe Chambered Tomb, Stromness Heritage Walk and Museum

I started my second full day on Orkney Mainland with an excellent guided tour of the Barnhouse Settlement and the Stones of Stenness. Older than the nearby Ring of Brodgar, the Stones of Stenness were built around 5,400 years ago and are possibly the earliest henge monument ever erected in the British Isles (it is older than Stonehenge by a millennium). It once consisted of 12 stones, encircled by a large ditch and bank, but now only 4 stones remain standing and the shapes of the ditch and bank have been erased over time by ploughing.

The site was very busy as many tour buses stop here but, with patience, I was able to photograph some of the individual stones on their own. Our guide related many facts, stories, and theories about this ancient stone circle and the roles it may have played in the ceremonial and spiritual life of the Neolithic farming culture that built it.

Close to Stenness is the Barnhouse Settlement, the remains of a small village which is the same age as the Stones of Stenness Circle and it is thought that those who lived here built the stone circle. As we neared the site, I turned for this lovely view of the pathway to the stones and of the mountains of Hoy in the distance. They were no longer encased in mist!

Unlike at Skara Brae, the structures here have been reconstructed, with stones placed as they were found during excavation. Our guide showed us three structures, the first of which was a small rectangular home with a layout similar to those found at Skara Brae with box beds, central hearths, and storage dressers. At least 15 such homes were found in the village. The second structure (below) was more like a duplex, with a passageway entrance and then the space is divided into two non-symmetrical halves, each with its own central hearth. It is possible that the spaces were used as workshops.

The third structure was comprised of a large circular outer wall, 1.5 metres thick, that would likely have been quite high. Inside the wall was a large rectangular structure with the entrance aligned so that the midsummer sunset shone down its entrance passage. The structure is thought to have had a ceremonial function because of its large size, alignments, enclosing wall, and archaeological finds.

After my guided tour I walked the short distance to the Maeshowe Visitor Centre to wait for the start of my next tour, this one into the finely constructed and nearly perfectly intact Maeshowe chambered cairn, built around 3500 BC. The long, narrow, and low entrance tunnel is aligned to let light shine onto the back wall of the tomb’s central chamber on the day of the winter solstice. The main chamber is roughly square in shape and surrounded by three smaller cells, and the high corbeled ceiling was built without mortar. Etched into the walls are Nordic runes, the largest collection of Norse runes outside of Scandinavia. The Orkneying Saga, written in Iceland in the 13th century, tells of a band of Vikings that took shelter here during a storm a century before. One set of runes tells of a great treasure, but many are boasts such as this one, “These runes were incised by the best runester in the west, using the axe that Gaul Thrandilsson once owned in south Iceland.” There are boasts of another kind as well, for example “Thorny was bedded”, and “Ingigerd is the best of them all.”

After lunch and an afternoon rest at my hostel, I headed out to do the Stromness Heritage Walk and to visit the Stromness museum. Armed with my pamphlet guide, I walked along the winding harbourfront street looking for the blue plaques that highlighted places of interest. At one stop was a cannon that was reputedly fired to signal the arrival of the Hudson’s Bay Company ships into the harbour. Another, most interesting stop, was at an old stone plaque marking the site of Login’s Well. This well supplied water to the ships of the Hudson’s Bay Company from 1670-1891, to Captain Cook’s vessels, the Resolution and Discovery, in 1780, and to Sir John Franklin’s Ships, Erebus and Terror, for their Arctic expedition of 1845!

Next, I visited Stromness Museum which was founded in 1837 and has quite an eclectic collection of artefacts. I learned that Stromness was a base for the Hudson’s Bay Company from 1670 to 1891. The company recruited men from Orkney to work in the fur trade, and by the late 18th century, three-quarters of the company’s work force in Canada were Orkadians!

Stromness had a very active Natural History Society during the Victorian age, and some of their collections of taxidermy, rocks, shells, fossils, etc. take up most of the second floor of the museum. I spent a lot of time here, especially looking at the beautiful birds, and at the collections of nests and eggs.

There were also some items in the museum which were found at Skara Brae, including “Buddo” a small figurine carved from whale bone sometime between 2900-2400 BC. It is one of only a few known human-like figurines that date from the Neolithic period of Great Britain. Also on display from Skara Brae were a stone pot containing crushed red ochre, bone points and pins, and necklaces of bone and shell. The blackened urn contains cremated human bone, found in a burial mound near Sandwick.

Whaling was also prominent in Stromness’ maritime history. From about the 1770s to the 1870s, whaling ships took on crews in Stromness, looking for young men who were skilled in handling small boats in rough seas. In 1816, the Aberdeen Chronicle recorded 34 whaling ships docked in Stromness Harbour. On display were models of boats and harpoons, etc., but my attention was caught by a set of scrimshaw (decorated bone or ivory objects crafted by whalers) that included two walrus tusks and four whale’s teeth. The etched images, chiefly of Arctic animals, are very beautiful and the artist must have been a somewhat soft-hearted whaler to have depicted the mother polar bear and her cub so tenderly. He may also have been missing the comforts and safety of home as whaling voyages often lasted four years or more and were very dangerous. The scene of the whale breaking the small boat apart, with all of the whalers tossed into the frigid seas, destined to drown, surely depicts a fear held by many, if not all, of the men who took on this dangerous job.

After my time at the museum I strolled further along Stromness’ harbourfront street, eventually leaving the town behind. It was a wonderful walk, with a fresh breeze, bright sun, and a beautiful sky and sea. Here, the NorthLink ferry is leaving Stromness harbour.

I descended to the beach for this photo of the Hoy Sound High lighthouse. Look at the colour of that water!

I continued along, sometimes down on the beach and sometimes up higher on the path beside the road. The mountains of Hoy were beautiful in the distance,

and I appreciated this silhouette of two friends enjoying a peaceful moment.

I considered walking a little further (you can continue from here on a coastal trail for seventeen kilometres all the way to Skara Brae, and then walk another twelve kilometres to the Brough of Birsay), but I was happy to turn around and make the return journey to my hostel, now with a greater appreciation for the historic harbour town of Stromness, and for long human history and timeless landscapes of these Orkney islands.

Orkney and Shetland – June 2024

Old Man of Hoy, Stromness, Skara Brae, the Ring of Brodgar, and the Brough of Birsay

Hello everyone, I’m in Orkney!

I arrived in Scotland a little over one week ago, somewhat worse for wear after a sleepless flight and with the onset of the early symptoms of a cold or flu that has worsened as the days have gone on. I managed to do some sightseeing in Stirling and Inverness (posts to come), while also trying to get enough rest. I’m feeling better now but am still low energy so I am continuing to take it easy. It is sad, though, to let go of some of my looked-forward-to activities, including today’s planned 20 km loop hike on the Isle of Hoy, up onto its high cliffs to overlook the Old Man of Hoy, a famous sea stack that soars 450 feet high. Sigh! Oh well, at least I had a good view of the Old Man and the cliffs as I passed by on my ferry ride over to Mainland Orkney!

I loved the ferry ride from Thurso, on the northern coast of Scotland, to the historic town of Stromness on Mainland, the largest of the Orkney Islands. It was an exciting crossing, with a bright sky (at the start!), strong winds, and a rollicking swell on the sea. Here are several more views of the Old Man of Hoy and the cliffs of Hoy as we passed.

Hoy is the second largest of the Orkney Islands (of which there are more than seventy). It is also the highest of the islands, with its geology and landscape more akin to the Highlands of Scotland than to the more low-lying, pastoral landscape of the other isles of Orkney.

Here is my last photo view from the rear sun deck of the ship, with the tops of Hoy’s mountains obscured in the mist and a fishing boat heading out to sea.

And here is a photo of the historic town of Stromness as we entered the harbour and approached our dock.

How exciting to arrive! Thank you North Link Ferries!

It was a very short walk down a narrow winding street to my accommodation of four nights, Brown’s Hostel. (The bicycle parked for the moment in front belongs to a couple, “older than me” who have been cycling all around Scotland, including the Outer Hebrides, for over six weeks!)

The rain settled in soon after my arrival, and so did I. I abandoned my planned afternoon activities and headed out only briefly to buy groceries and to find a good book to read. The following morning, I took an early stroll along my street and explored many of the little lanes between the homes and cottages that lead to the waterfront where there are piers and ramps down to the water. In days gone by this was a very busy harbourfront full of sailing ships, whalers, and fishing boats stopping for provisions or to unload cargo. (I saw my first Orkney flag flying! This is a reminder that you can click on any photo if you would like a larger view.)

Next, I was off to visit Skara Brae which is one of Orkney’s most important archaeological sites. It is a wonderfully preserved Neolithic village that is over 5000 years old, sited above a stunningly beautiful beach at the Bay of Skaill.

In 1850, the ferocious winds of a winter storm severely eroded a high dune, known as Skara Brae, and revealed a marvel – the stones of an ancient farming village older than the pyramids of Egypt and Stonehenge. The site has now been excavated to reveal the shapes and interiors of ten clustered stone structures, most of them homes.

A reconstructed house (below), sited near the Visitor Centre and filled with replica artefacts, allows visitors to walk through and experience what it would have felt like to be in one of the homes found at Skara Brae. Semi-buried, these small rectangular dwellings featured a narrow and low doorway, rock-lined “box beds” to either side of a central hearth (that would have been filled with warm materials such as furs or straw), small storage spaces in the walls, and a shelving unit opposite the door where functional and special objects such as pottery could be stored and displayed.

Below is a photo of the interior of one of the homes. It would have been roofed, likely with timbers and with hides or turf. What is amazing at Skara Brae is that what you see onsite is not a reconstruction. The stones are left as they were found during the excavations, amazingly protected and preserved for over five millennia by the sand dune.

The structure in the photo below, larger than the other dwellings, is thought to have been a workshop for the making of stone and bone tools and perhaps pottery. The excavation of Skara Brae led to many archaeological finds and discoveries and shed much new light on the day-to-day lives of early Neolithic farmers in Britain.

In the distance (in the above photo) is Skaill House, a 17th century mansion that is open for viewing on a joint ticket with Skara Brae. I had been looking forward to that visit but, mindful of my energy levels, I sadly decided to skip it. But, there was certainly time for a brief visit down to that gorgeous beach,

before exploring the exhibits in the Visitors Centre and then catching the bus to my next stop, the Ring of Brodgar. The Ring of Brodgar is part of the “Neolithic Orkney World Heritage Site”, along with Skara Brae, the Maeshowe chambered tomb, and the Stones of Stenness. It is dramatically located on a narrow strip of land between two long lochs and is the third largest stone circle in the U.K.

Thought to have been constructed between 2600 and 2400 BC, the massive stone circle has a diameter of 104 metres and is surrounded by a henge (deep ditch). There are 36 remaining stones, of an original 60, and there are also 13 prehistoric burial mounds located in the nearby landscape.

I loved walking around the outside of the circle (the inner path is currently closed for restoration). The stones were each unique and beautiful and the setting was tremendous. But, bad weather was moving in quickly, more quickly than I expected, and after just one circuit of the stones I had to scurry away at speed, turning for one last photo that is blurred from the drops of water on my camera lens.

There was no shelter to be had anywhere, and the bus was still 40 minutes away! I had my rain jacket on, but not my rain pants (rookie mistake), and as I fumbled in my day pack for my small umbrella the wind-driven rain lashed at me and laughed at my efforts. Within minutes I was completely drenched and I looked as if I had stepped into a shower with all of my clothes on! There was no question of waiting it out so I begged a ride from a woman who was also scurrying away and she kindly rescued me from the deluge! (The weather here changes constantly. Sitting here as I write in the hostel kitchen, the scene outside the window has alternated between rain and sun at least four times this morning!)

Later that afternoon, the clouds magically cleared and the sun came out. At the hostel I had changed, rested, and had a hot lunch so I felt as if I had enough energy to make the journey to the Brough of Birsay, a small tidal island located off of the northern shore of Mainland. The island is only accessible by foot via a causeway for two hours on either side of the low tide. The bus dropped me off beside the ruins of the 15th century Earl’s Palace in Birsay,

and it was an easy 15 minute walk out towards the causeway and this stunning view of the island.

I made my way across (what fun!), and then rose up onto the island to look back at the causeway and Mainland.

It was so beautiful there! The island features early Pictish, Norse, and Medieval remains. The structure in the photo below is thought to have been a Norse sauna.

The small island has a rich history. It was occupied in the 5th century by Celtic Christian missionaries, and was a Pictish stronghold in the 7th century. Archaeologists have found Pictish brooches, rings, dress pins, fragments of glass, and also moulds for the creation of fine Bronze jewellery. In the 9th century, the Norse arrived and built a settlement here which lasted several centuries. The remnants of Norse longhouses, barns, a smithy, a church, and the sauna are all beautifully outlined by stones, deep green grass, and lovely wildflowers including bright yellow vetching, and (my favourites) deep pink sea thrift.

After exploring the ruins, I made my way uphill for a closer look at the lighthouse,

stopping often to catch my breath and to look back down the hill and over the causeway to Mainland.

What a charming lighthouse!

Just beyond it, the wind was blowing, and gulls wheeling, over sheer cliffs. I stopped and took it in for only a few moments as I had arrived to the island a bit late and the tide was steadily rising. Back down the hill I had enough time to walk through the Norse ruins again, and then sit and view the misty headlands and wild waves to the east where there is a coastal trail one can hike.

I was sad to leave such a beautiful place, but it was time to cross back over the causeway,

But not for everyone! This fellow decided to risk a quick visit, despite my warning him about the rising tide!

Up at the level of the car park, I glanced longingly at the trailhead for the coastal walk to the east. This walk had been on my itinerary because of the two hour wait for the return bus, but my energy was quickly waning despite the exhilarating surroundings and the bracing air.

I walked the road back to the Earl’s Palace and spent just a few moments touring its interior,

and then I was not too shy to ask for help a second time in one day. I begged a ride to Stromness from a couple as they were approaching their car and they kindly said yes so I was happily whisked home to my hostel for a lovely evening of rest. It had been a magnificent day in Orkney!

Arizona/New Mexico – Spring 2024

A Day Almost Missed! The Very Large Array, Pie Town, and the Datil Well Recreation Area

April 5, 2024

It was a morning of indecision. It was cold and very windy when I woke at 6 a.m. at the Birders’ RV campsite so rather than cooking up my coffee and breakfast I drove the few miles to a McDonalds in Socorro. While there, I looked up the weather report – high winds were predicted for the day, as well as freezing night time temperatures at high elevations. Hmmm. My day’s plan had been to drive up into the high mountains west of Socorro, visit the Very Large Array and Pie Town, and camp at Datil Well Campground which sits at an elevation of 7414 feet! To be honest, I was getting tired of very cold nights and so, reluctantly, I decided to skip that part of my itinerary even though I have always wanted to see the Very Large Array.

I left Socorro and drove 30 minutes up I-25 en-route to visit the Salinas Pueblo Missions, but I kept glancing at those high mountains to the west and they were definitely calling to me. So, pulling off the I-25, I drove the 30 minutes back to Socorro to pursue my original plan and I am so glad that I did! I connected to Highway 60 West which quickly began to climb and curve its way up into the mountains and then, to my surprise, I was on the Plains of San Agustin, a large flat expanse of grassland dotted with sage that had once been the site of a large intermontane lake. This was the most scenic drive yet! It was the kind of road where I felt compelled to stop again and again for photographs. There were mountains ahead,

and mountains to the right of me,

and mountains to my left, blue in the far distance and topped with snow.

The plain stretched way ahead of me and after about an hour of fantastic driving I began to see the shapes of the telescopes of the Very Large Array in the distance. I stopped several times for photos but they were still very tiny! Here is one photo from a bit closer!

The Very Large Array collects faint cosmic radio waves from outer space to learn about objects in our universe, and I learned later that the array is located here in part because the surrounding mountains act as a barrier to radio interference from cities even hundreds of miles away.

I turned onto the access road to the Visitors Centre where there were closer views,

and then that road turned again and offered a different view. While I had moved from one stop to another, the radio telescopes had all shifted to point up! It was like a choreographed ballet! The telescopes can tilt up and down and spin around. They act in unison, and together they create the world’s most powerful radio astronomy telescope that has made more discoveries than any other telescope on Earth.

I reached the Visitors Centre where there were informative films to watch, interpretive exhibits, and a paved walk for closer viewing of the telescopes,

including the opportunity for a very up-close view! Each large dish measures 82 feet across and weighs over 200 metric tons.

There are twenty eight dishes, one of which is a spare, and they were all built onsite in a large facility called the Barn. The other twenty seven working telescopes are organized on three straight arms that radiate out from the centre, with nine telescopes on each arm. They move on rails and can be spaced closer together to cover a distance of about two thirds of a mile, or be arrayed far apart on each arm for a distance of up to 13 miles!

The Very Large Array makes detailed images of radio-emitting objects in deep space that are not visible to optical telescopes, and it can observe astronomical events likes the birth of stars and the growth of galaxies. The data collected by the Very Large Array is shared with astronomers all over the world. Here is an excellent film if you would like to learn more: https://public.nrao.edu/gallery/beyond-the-visible-vla/

After my inspiring and educational visit to the Very Large Array, I continued west on highway 60, through the small town of Datil, and then on to Pie Town, a teeny tiny stop on the road with three pie shops and a population of less than 200. Just before the first pie shop there was a property filled with someone’s wonderful collection of old windmills, vehicles, and machinery. (I recommend clicking on the photo of the truck for a larger view, it is really quite beautiful!)

Next, an old gas station and garage were terribly rundown, but also oddly beautiful! Then, what could be more American than a Chevy (I’m guessing here, let me know if I’m wrong!) paired with a Coca-Cola sign, and what could be more antique than a pay phone!

Ah, the first pie shop! (It’s a restaurant too.)

I had thought that I would scope out all three shops before deciding where to buy a slice, but this first one had me at hello.

The inside was as fun as the outside with all kinds of signs, photos, antiques, and various bric a brac to look at, admire, and wonder at. The ladies running the shop were friendly, and there were about ten different and interesting kinds of pies on offer, including their signature apple pie which incorporates green hatch chilies in the recipe. The Lemon Blueberry Buttermilk pie sounded just right for me so I ordered a slice with a cup of coffee and then made my way to a comfortable booth in the back corner.

This was my view of the restaurant from my booth,

and this was my close-up view!

I enjoyed my pie and coffee and then happily began the return journey east on scenic highway 60 to arrive at the Datil Well Recreation Area Campground. What a great place! The cost was only $5 per night (!) for a exceptionally clean and well-maintained campground located in a forest of juniper and Ponderosa pine, with well-spaced sites, some with ramadas and three with electricity! As well, it had historic significance having been a resting and watering site for multiple cattle and sheep drives over the years, including in 1919 when over 21,000 cattle and 150,000 sheep stopped here, “accompanied by cowboys or sheep herders, chuckwagons, and saddle horses.”

I chose a site, walked around the campground and on one of the trails for some exercise, and then had a simple dinner of tuna on crackers and some canned peaches because I was still full of pie!

Later, as it drew close to about 6 p.m., I started to worry again about the rising wind and the cold night ahead so I checked the weather report. Now, there was also a wildfire warning posted because of the dry conditions and high winds, and also the potential for snow! Reluctantly, I decided to say goodbye to my lovely campsite (and my $5) and drive back down to Socorro for the night to camp stealth in town. I felt like quite the wimp actually, definitely not as tough as those hundreds of cowboys and sheep herders that had passed through here and slept out under the stars, in much rougher conditions, in days gone by.

But, it was the right decision to make and I was happy as I made the drive back, still stopping often for photos as the sun lowered in the western sky behind me and the road stretched ahead across the high plain.

It had been a great day in New Mexico, and I was very glad that I hadn’t missed it!

Arizona/New Mexico – Spring 2024

Southern New Mexico – White Sands National Park, Black Lava at the Valley of Fires Recreation Area, and Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge

April 3-4, 2024

I left the wonderful City of Rocks campground early, on a bright sunny morning, and headed southeast, first on quiet and scenic highway 180, and then on a fast stretch of I-10 into the city of Las Cruces where I crossed over the Rio Grande! The Rio Grande originates in the southern Rocky Mountains and flows for over 1800 miles before emptying into the Gulf of Mexico. It has been a source of water to peoples in the arid lands of New Mexico, Texas and Mexico for millennia, and has supported a rich diversity of plants and wildlife as well as human occupation, agriculture and settlement. Once a wild river with seasonal floods, the Rio Grande is now tamed by several dams to control and manage its flow. Here, in Las Cruces, the wide river flowed downstream beside a pleasant riverside park.

I spent a bit of time in downtown Las Cruces and then carried on to visit White Sands National Park to see its dazzling white dunes composed of pure gypsum crystals, the largest such dune field in the world.

The crystals originate from ancient lakebeds in the Tularosa Basin, and the wind blows them into ever-shifting patterns of dunes that cover roughly 275 square miles of Chihuahuan Desert. As I drove towards the park, I could see a leading edge of the dune field with stubborn plants trying to maintain a foothold on the shifting sands. I learned later that soaptree yucca plants in the dunes grow taller to keep new leaves above the sand. They can have as much as thirty feet of growth below the surface of the dune as they strive to survive.

I visited the excellent (and very busy) Visitors Centre, and then I began the somewhat other-worldly eight mile drive into the dunes.

I walked the two short nature trails, learning about the plants and animals that are adapated to live here. The adaptations were grouped under these headings: grow fast (sand verbena), change colour (bleached earless lizard and Apache pocket mouse), go out at night (kit fox), grow tall (yucca), and hold on (skunkbush sumac). My adaptations were sunglasses, a hat, sunscreen, and water as I chose one parking area near the end of the drive and set off to climb up into the dunes. It was very beautiful!

Between the dunes were shallow areas where moisture can accumulate and plants put down roots, at least for a time.

I walked up and down many dunes, some quite steep, until my parking area was lost to sight. On my return journey I worried for just a moment, thinking that I could possibly be lost, but my sense of direction was true and the parking area came into sight just a few minutes later.

Part of me wanted to say longer in this brilliant and somewhat hypnotic white expanse,

but it was time to move on. I had reached the southeastern extent of my travels on this road trip. Now, it was time to start heading back north and west towards, eventually, home!

Back on the road, I drove towards Alamogordo and watched as fighter jets from the nearby Holloman Airforce Base whizzed across the sky at incredible speeds. I left that city behind and headed north on quiet highway 54, with the tall snow-covered peaks of the Sacramento Mountains to my right, and the flat expanse of the Tularosa Basin to my left, edged in the distance by the San Andres and Oscura Mountains. As I neared the small town of Carrizozo, I began to see a darkness on the landscape. It was the Malpais/Carrizozo Lava Flow, created some 5000 years ago when Little Black Black Peak began a series of eruptions that sent lava flowing south down the Tularosa Basin for 44 miles. The resulting lava flow of is between 4 and 6 miles wide, and up to 160 feet thick in places.

The Valley of Fires Recreation Area protects this unique landscape and its plants and animals, and it also offers a great campsite which was unfortunately full when I arrived in the late afternoon. But, one kind couple occupying an extra-large site on top of a hill offered to let me share their space which was very kind of them. Relieved to be settled, I had time to walk the excellent one mile paved nature trail that described the lava flow, as well as the plants and animals that are making this unique place their home.

After my walk, there was time for dinner, a chat with the elderly couple, and then a session of sitting on my camp chair, with this view, while the sun lowered in the sky.

I wanted to stay out for another evening session of star-watching, but my near-constant companion, the wind, decided to turn chilly and sharp so I retreated to the protection of my Toyota and the delights of a good book.

The next morning I was off again early, loving the emptiness of Highway 380 and the blueness of the sky as I travelled due west towards the Rio Grande Valley and the Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge.

The Bosque del Apache Refuge protects almost 60,000 acres of desert, wetland, and bosque which is a forest habitat, often of cottonwoods, that is found along rivers, streams, and floodplains. It is an important refuge and breeding ground for migratory birds including song birds, raptors, waterfowl, and shore birds, and it is famous for its very large numbers of overwintering sandhill cranes and snow geese.

As I exited my car at the Visitor’s Centre, I heard, “Hello! Christine!” And there was Klaus, a German traveller that I had met on that snowy morning at Chiricahua. He had already spent the previous day birding at the bosque, and he was excited to show me where to see vermillion fly catchers in a stand of tall cottonwoods near one of the viewing decks in the refuge. That’s Klaus below, in silhouette, and we did indeed spot several of the beautiful and striking red birds, perched in the tree tops and in flight catching insects. It was very exciting to see them!

Klaus was heading to one of the north ponds where he had seen ibis, snowy egrets, and avocets the previous day while I went off to walk several trails in the southern half of the Refuge’s 14 mile loop drive. I loved the boardwalk nature trail with its charming signage done in the style of a naturalist’s diary, and though the reeds were brown and the cottonwoods were gray and leafless, it was still very beautiful, and there were little sparks of green to be found.

After my walks, I drove to rejoin Klaus who was set up on his camp chair at one of the north ponds where there was an exciting variety of species of birds all in one area. I set up my chair as well, pulled out my binoculars, and saw beautiful snowy egrets, and elegant stilts, avocets and ibis. Wonderful! There were also shovelers, dowitchers and other shore birds, and a killdeer which flew by noisily with its distinctive call. At one point, a harrier hawk flew low over the pond and set all of the birds aflight, but they soon resettled so that we could continue to watch as they fed, each in their own particular way, in the shallow waters of the pond. Sadly, I didn’t have my zoom lens with me for close up photos of the egrets, stilts, and avocets,

but Klaus kindly sent me several photos that he had taken, including this gorgeous photo of a white-faced ibis,

and this one of a snowy egret.

We sat for a long time watching the birds and chatting and then we visited the lovely small botanical garden and arboretum. Handsome red-winged blackbird bachelors ate at feeders and drank at a fountain while Gambel’s quail scurried from one hiding place to another.

Then, Klaus and I chatted some more in the Visitor’s Centre, about travel and famous adventurers, books and birds. By late afternoon it was time for Klaus to continue on his travels east to Texas, en route to view the solar eclipse, and I settled in at the nearby, rather uninspiring but safe and peaceful Birdwatcher’s RV Park (the closest campsite to the Bosque), to make a simple dinner and go to bed early. I felt ready for sleep by about 6 p.m.! A product, I think, of several weeks of non-stop travel, and of all the sun the day before at White Sands, and on this day sitting by the ponds. Before closing myself in to my Toyota though, I ended my day with the lucky sighting of a roadrunner, truly a symbol of the Southwest.

Ireland, 2023 – On to Doolin and the beautiful Aran islands

June 16-18, 2023

I left Portmagee to travel on four different buses to Ennis, and luckily had time at each of my transfer stops to have a bathroom break. My tummy was beginning to settle but I still wasn’t eating much more than a couple of scones, a banana, and a few crackers each day. I enjoy travelling by bus with nothing to do but enjoy the passing scenery and it was actually a restful day. I settled into my bed and breakfast right away and did not walk out to experience the medieval centre of Ennis town. Unfortunately I had to make the decision to cancel another much-anticipated activity that was planned for the following day – a seven kilometre hike in the Burren on the Mullaghmore Trail. It would have required several bus rides to get there, plus energy for the hike, and sadly I just wasn’t up to it. Here is an image from the internet as I didn’t get to go there! (Photo from barnabynutt.com)

What an amazing landscape! Yet another reason to travel again to Ireland! Because I skipped the hike I was able to travel on an earlier bus to Doolin, a place that I had visited on my last trip to Ireland and a gateway to the Aran Islands. I arrived at the comfortable and cozy Rainbow Hostel and received a very warm Irish welcome.

My hostess, Carmel, was so kind and offered to do my laundry and to drive me to the pier the following morning. I loved talking with her and with Susan, an Irish woman on holiday from Amsterdam, and I enjoyed hearing the two of them speak together in Irish. I’ve heard a lot of Irish spoken on this trip! I did nothing all afternoon except chat, read, nap, and enjoy a very dramatic electrical storm right above the hostel that flashed lightning, boomed thunder, and released a torrent of rain! In the evening I went on an easy walk near to the hostel along a country road to visit the ruins of an old church and a small stone circle.

It was a lovely walk in the cool rain-washed air and there were views across hay fields to the beginnings of the Cliffs of Moher in the distance.

The Killilagh Church was built in the 17th century and its cemetery continued to be used until the middle of the 20th century. It was very peaceful and there were many Celtic crosses marking the graves.

I continued along the road as it led straight towards the sea,

and turned for views back towards Doolin.

I noticed that the birds were very active with their calls to each other, possibly discussing with some excitement the fantastic storm that had passed. I walked all the way to where the road ended and did not see the ring of stones anywhere off to my right in the fields. Disappointed, I turned to walk back and continued looking, now to my left. Halfway back, and losing hope, I met a Doolin resident getting her 10,000 steps in and she knew where the stones were so I turned again and walked with her back towards the sea. She pointed out the location, about 30 metres beyond where I had stopped before! The “ring of stones” was actually the Teergonean Court Tomb. Court tombs are the oldest Neolithic tombs in Ireland and date from the early- to mid- 4th millennium BC. They get their name from an open court in front of the tomb entrance and the tombs were normally covered by long cairns of stone. It is believed that a large and prominent stone on the horizon, a glacial erratic, influenced the placement of these stones into a meaningful alignment. It was tangibly an ancient and very special place and I felt honoured to be there to experience it.

The next morning, after a good sleep, I was ready to head to Inis Oirr for a four-hour visit and then continue on to Inis Meain for a three night stay in a 200 year old cottage. The Doolin Ferry company had new boats, an improvement over the somewhat rusty one I had ridden on five years ago when I had visited Inis Mor, the biggest of the three Aran islands.

The trip to Inis Oirr, the smallest and closest island, was a quick fifteen minutes, with views of the cliffs of Moher in the distance and then views of the island with its gorgeous beach, blue-green water, harbour buildings, and hilltop castle and tower.

I had booked a bicycle, and the proprietors kindly stored my big pack for me so, feeling excited and energized again for the first time in days, I set off to explore the sights of the island. Like Inish Mor, this island is a continuation of the Karst limestone topography of the Burren and it is criss-crossed with miles and miles of dry stone walls. I had loved my time on Inis Mor and was very happy to be back to visit another of the Aran Islands. On my first stop I walked down a grassy lane to see the island’s small brackish lake – seawater seeps into the lake from fissures in the limestone.

I continued on to the remains of the MV Plassey, a large cargo steam freighter that was wrecked in a storm off Inis Oirr in 1960. All eleven crew members were rescued by the islanders who also helped to salvage the cargo. The huge rusting wreck was strangely very beautiful!

From there I cycled towards the island’s lighthouse. It was very fun to ride a bicycle and much faster than walking, even though I do usually have to get off and push on the uphill stretches! The lighthouse was like a magnet in the distance,

and there was an interesting approach to it along a long straight road hemmed in by tall stone walls.

On the return trip back up the road I noticed a gate in the wall which enabled me to walk along the rocky shore to photograph the lighthouse from different angles. It posed marvellously, as did the obliging clouds! What a gorgeous day to be on Inis Oirr!

On the walk back I became distracted by some tiny yellow star-shaped flowers and I continued to enjoy finding and photographing flowers as I pushed my bike back uphill. There were so many daisies blooming on this island!

My next stop was O’Brien’s Castle which was built in the 14th century within a ring fort believed to date from 400 BC. The castle was a three story tower house for the O’Brien family who ruled the Aran islands until the late 1500s.

I enjoyed walking around all four sides of the tower and exploring the inside,

but the real draw today was the views in all directions over the island. This view shows some of the multitude of wall-enclosed fields,

and this view (left photo), over to the next hill, shows the remains of a signal tower, built in 1804 that was part of the extensive network of towers built by the British during the Napoleonic wars.

After the hilltop visits I zoomed on my bike downhill to what was perhaps my favourite stop on the island, Teampall Chaomhan, the 10th century St. Kevin’s Church. Built near the sea, over the centuries it became buried by drifting sands until it was excavated and revealed by the islanders who continue to maintain the site. It was very unique and beautiful.

Nearby was the Cnoc Raithnoghe, a Bronze Age burial mound, dated at 1500 BC, which had also been buried under the sands over time. It was excavated after discovery and the finds included decorated pottery urns, cremated human remains, and a small bronze pin.

There was still time before my ferry to Inis Meain so I cycled towards the western side of the island to visit Cill Ghobnait, also referred to as An Teampall Beag (The Small Temple). Dedicated to St. Ghobnait, and built in the 11th century on a site in use since the 6th century, the church still features its original stone altar.

There were still more parts of the island to explore but I was happy with my day and conscious of my energy levels so I returned my bicycle and sat outside at a cafe to enjoy a scone and cup of tea and the views towards the beautiful sand beach, Tra Inis Oirr. After my break, I still had time before the ferry arrived so I walked towards the beach,

and then along the sand to its very centre where the view out to the clouds and sea was truly magical.

I said goodbye to lovely Inis Oirr as the ferry pulled away,

and said hello to Inis Meain, the middle island, as we made the approach.

I was ready for the next part of my journey and optimistic that I was on the mend. I would have three days in one place to rest, read and explore. Unfortunately, things would not go as planned!

Ireland, 2023 – More happy walking on the Kerry Way

June 10-11, 2023

Glencar to Glenbeigh , 12.5 km, 420 m

It was an overcast morning as I left the Climbers Inn in Glencar and this day on the trail would have a much different personality. There was more road walking, though thankfully almost all of it was along quiet country roads and farm and forest tracks. I passed by rivers and streams, and through fields, forest, and woodlands, all of it as peaceful as can be.

I had left the exhilaration of the mountains behind, but they were still present in the distance reminding me of where I’d been. It was a good day for contemplation and I was happy as I walked along.

Today, 3 groups of walkers passed me – an American couple, a young German couple, and three older Brits – all doing the Kerry Way but with their bags transported by tour companies. It was fun to chat briefly with each and to compare notes on our Kerry Way journeys. I walked at a good pace throughout the morning on easy terrain and sooner than expected I arrived at the turn to Windy Gap for another climb up to a mountain pass. This climb too was much easier than those of the previous days and I hiked steadily up,

stopping occassionally for views back to the MacGillicuddy’s Reeks, most of them tucked away in the clouds.

I continued on up the curving green path,

and then I was at the top with my first glimpse of the sea on the horizon.

I travelled a little further on and then stopped to rest with this view of Dingle Bay spread out below. Two long sandspits stretch out into the bay. Inch Beach (to the right) begins at Annascaul on the other side of the bay and is 6 km long while Rossbeigh Beach (to the left in the photo), extends 3 km. Both feature beautiful long beaches backed by sand dunes with native grasses and wildflowers. I had sadly missed visiting Inch Beach on my last trip to Ireland, and I wondered if I would make it to visit Rossbeigh Beach this evening.

After my rest I started the descent, first on the wide track for a kilometre or two,

and then on a section of road walking where my views were blocked for a while by tall hedgerows so I found enjoyment in looking at all of the plants growing on and over them. So many species, such vitality! Every square inch was covered by plants of one sort or another, all seemingly getting along as they shared the space and light.

Then I was passing through the outskirts of Glenbeigh and on into the town where I had another kilometre of walking to reach my accommodation at the slightly time-worn but still elegant Glenbeigh Hotel which began life as a stage coach inn in 1792.

After a refreshing shower I trekked back into town to do some laundry and find some dinner, and then returned to the hotel with time enough left in the evening to have visited Rossbeigh Beach. I didn’t feel up to the walk there and back but I really regret not having made the effort to at least walk there and ring for a taxi back. Sometimes I adhere a bit too strictly to my budget!

Glenbeigh to Limateerha, 15 km, 270 m

I started my day much lighter than on the previous four days of walking as my kind host, Richard, of Limateerha House where I would stay next, was transporting my big pack for me for only 15 Euro which is much more reasonable than the 30 or 35 Euro charged by many other hosts and baggage transfer companies. I was very grateful! I set off down Glenbeigh’s Main Street and then it was time to climb up into the Fairy Forest, a whimsical local trail and also part of the Kerry Way. The start of the Fairy Forest was appropriately carpeted with blossoms!

After the section of forest the Kerry Way joined a very quiet road which rose steadily for several kilometres,

and later provided views over the valley and across to Windy Gap which I had descended yesterday (the slight V between the mountains).

The road continued, always uphill, for a good long while, past farms and scattered houses and it was peaceful except for a few over-excited dogs barking from their porches. Today, I would again not see one other hiker on my entire day’s journey.

There was a turn to cross over the N71 and soon after that the Kerry Way finally left the pavement and joined a dirt track that began to lead me up to isolated sheep fields on the side of a mist-shrouded mountain.

As I climbed there were great views back. Rossbeigh Beach was already so far away!

The track rose and narrowed and began to travel on the very edge of the mountain slope.

And this was the view straight down!

The drop is almost sheer, with cars passing below on the N71 Ring of Kerry Road. If one should stumble over the edge I highly doubt that grabbing at bracken would slow the fall! The colour of the water was rather too mesmerizing, so eyes forward I continued on the path towards the encroaching mist.

Before rounding a bend, I stopped to take one long last look back at Dingle Bay with its duo of long sandy spits. What a view!

I left those dizzying views behind, rounded the shoulder of the mountain, and walked straight into a new kind of excitement – a very strong wind was blowing veils of mist at me and within minutes I was close to being drenched.

I put on my rain jacket but was too lazy to put on my rain pants… then two minutes later I put on my rain pants! I was in the rain, mist and clouds (or were they all the same thing?) as I traversed the mountainside and then passed through a long section of forestry with some newly cut areas.

The next highlight was seeing my first glimpse of the finale of my Kerry Way walk far in the distance beyond the end of the first body of water. I would get there tomorrow!

The rain eased up and I started a long descent on a beautiful section of winding road that passed a series of old farms and ruined cottages.

The views across and down the valley from those cottages and that road were breathtaking!

As I walked I alternated between looking at the distant views and features of the landscape and looking at nearer things – stones covered in lichen and moss, leaning fence posts, lambs with waggling tails, and the richness and variety of the plant life. Here I stopped when I noticed a curving line of blue forget-me-nots descending a shallow slope. They were growing where a tiny spring-fed stream was flowing!

I loved it here! Many people do the stage from Glenbeigh all the way to Cahersiveen (located just beyond the midpoint of the two bodies of water) in one go but I was very happy to be taking my time! I reached the bottom of that wonderful old road,

and continued along on a narrow trail until I crossed my last stile of the day and soon after joined a quiet paved road that led me to my accommodation for the night at Limateerha House. There I enjoyed wonderful books in the sun room, good conversation, and a home-cooked dinner followed by sticky toffee pudding with ice cream.

A wonderful day’s walking deserves a wonderful ending! Thank you all for reading.

Arizona Road Trip, 2023 – Sedona Hikes and Tuzigoot National Monument

March 25-27, 2023

It was a very cold night up on my hilltop campsite and after a restless sleep I woke to find frozen condensation on my car windows. The sun was just rising and a cold and very strong wind tried hard to douse the flames on my camp stove as I prepared my coffee and breakfast. I was all bundled up in a jacket, hat, scarf and gloves but it was still too cold to eat outside so I retreated to the driver’s seat of my Toyota, thankful to be out of the wind! I wondered why in the world I had left the warmth of southern Arizona to travel up to the high country, but of course that question was answered as soon as I arrived, some 40 minutes later, at the beautiful red rock country that surrounds Sedona.

The sun did its job to warm the earth and the temperature was perfect for a hike as I arrived at the parking lot for the Bell Rock and Courthouse Butte hikes. Sedona is a very popular hiking and biking destination and I was lucky to get one of the last available parking spots even though it was still only 7:30 a.m. I was so excited by the colour of the earth and the shapes of the rock formations as I set off towards Bell Rock which is on the left below.

I hiked past Bell Rock,

and headed towards Courthouse Butte to circle around it on a loop of about six kilometres of fairly easy and very scenic hiking. This is Courthouse Butte, beautifully lit by the morning sun.

The views of the butte were constantly changing as I circled around it,

and it was fun to cross several small streams that flowed over the red rocks, constantly eroding and sculpting this landscape.

From Couthouse Butte Trail, I continued on the Big Park Loop which led across a large wash and then headed back towards Bell Rock where rock cairns marked a route to guide hikers up onto the formation.

It started out easy, but some sections required rock scrambling and the use of foot and hand holds. It was very fun, and the views back towards the north were spectacular!

I climbed perhaps two thirds of the way up Bell Rock and felt very proud of myself as well as thrilled to be here.

Back at the parking lot, there was a bit of a traffic jam with hikers and tourists circling for spots, and that was also the case at the parking area for a visit to the Chapel of the Holy Cross. This spectacular church dominates a hillside overlooking Sedona and is a very popular stop for visitors because of the architectural beauty of the church and also its excellent views. I sat for a few moments in the dim and restful interior and I also enjoyed a peaceful moment beside a small fountain with its charming sculpture of Saint Francis.

From the viewing deck outside the church I had a great view to the south of Courthouse Butte and Bell Rock. It felt very satisfying to see where I had hiked!

After my visit to the church I had already had enough of crowds and traffic so I decided not to stop in the busy town of Sedona which is known for its many resorts, spas, restaurants, shopping, and New Age vibe. I had originally planned a second hike for today along Oak Creek in West Sedona but that trail was closed due to flooding. It was now a very warm day and I was feeling a bit tired after my less-than-restful night so I made my way to the local public library. I had to decide whether to keep my upcoming camping reservation at the Grand Canyon. I had been checking the Grand Canyon weather regularly throughout my entire trip, nervous about the constant “Snowfall Warnings”, road closures, and nighttime temperatures that were falling well below freezing (the South Rim of the Grand Canyon sits at an elevation of 7000 feet). Sure enough, that was still the forecast and so I made the decision to cancel my reservations and visit the Grand Canyon on my next trip to Arizona. I then researched and planned my route home and, happy to be organized, I returned to Dead Horse Ranch State Park and in the late afternoon I visited the Tuzigoot National Monument located nearby.

Tuzigoot is a pueblo, largely reconstructed, that was built by the Sinagua on a hilltop above the resource-rich Verde River valley. The first rooms were built around the year 1100, and by the late 1300s the pueblo had grown to be a large complex of 87 rooms, 23 second-story rooms, and a central plaza.

The oldest archaeological finds in the Verde valley are of obsidian arrow points from about 13,0000 years ago. Like their ancient ancestors, the Sinagua who built this pueblo were hunters of small and large game but they were also farmers who grew corn, cotton, squash and beans, and they cultivated agave and prickly pear for food and fibres. They produced undecorated pottery and fine cotton textiles, and they also utilized the mineral resources of the area (blue azurite, green malachite and red argillite) to create paints, elaborate jewellery, and small carvings. They also mined salt in the nearby hills which was a valuable item of trade.

More recent inhabitants of the Verde Valley have also relied upon the rich mineral resources of this area, principally copper, which was discovered by prospectors in the 1880s and led to the founding of the towns of Cottonwood, Clarkdale, and the “billion dollar town” of Jerome which was visible to me up on a mountainside in the distance. An interpretive panel informed me that the large flat area below is the site of five million tons of copper mine tailings spread over 116 acres! Strong winds would often swirl over the area and create choking orange dust storms so in 2006 the site was capped and revegetated. Astounding!

This view from the highest point at Tuzigoot looks south over the valley. The Verde River is marked by the line of tall gray trees, and the very dark trees on the floodplain below are mesquite. By the 1300s, Tuzigoot was part of a network of at least 40 settlements in the area with permanent dwellings and associated farmlands.

Back at camp, the sun was lowering and that cold wind was blowing again and I had to park my car facing into the wind to block it as much as possible while I cooked up my dinner under the back hatch. I ate my noodles and salmon straight from the pot in the driver’s seat, out of the wind, and didn’t relish a long cold evening in the car. Luckily there was a laundromat in Cottonwood so I was able to read, use wifi, and chat for a while with others until 8 p.m. before heading back to camp in the warmth of the car, more ready for the night and with all clean clothes to boot.

I had a great sleep even though the nighttime temperature again fell below zero. I had prepared a peanut butter and jam sandwich the night before and had planned on getting a gas station coffee so in a matter of minutes I was up and on the road, headed again to Sedona for a morning hike at Cathedral Rocks. I was one of the first arrivals at the parking lot and although the day was quickly warming up there was still some frost sparkling prettily on the grasses and other plants.

The trail started off in the flat lands of the Oak Creek valley and then began to rise up onto the red rocks. The curving line of trees below shows the course of Oak Creek as it flows southwest where it will eventually join the Verde River.

I was still enjoying finding frosty plants to photograph in areas of shade as I walked along and I accidentally got off trail. I noticed quite early, and was easily able to find my way back, but it was a lucky accident because I finally saw a mule deer, my only sighting of a large mammal on my entire Arizona trip. It was a special moment and I lingered for a while, all alone and very still, hoping it would reappear. It did not, but I was very happy nonetheless to have had a glimpse.

The trail was wonderful, not yet busy, and Cathedral Rock was spectacular!

Again, the views of the butte changed as I circled around it,

revealing tall sculpted spires and multi-coloured layers of rock.

Unfortunately the trail up onto Cathedral Rock was closed for maintenance so I continued along on the Templeton trail which was like a long red sidewalk circling around the base of Cathedral Rock. It was wonderful walking!

I hiked on for several more kilometres until I reached a large grassy field, with great views back to Cathedral Rock and forward up the Oak Creek valley, and I stopped here for a brief rest before starting the return journey along the same route.

By now, the trail was getting busy with other hikers and mountain bikers yet I didn’t mind. I had had the entire morning almost all to myself in this spectacular landscape and I was very very happy. It was approaching noon and the valley floor alongside Oak Creek was now warm and summery instead of cold and decorated with frost, and when I reached the parking lot cars were waiting for a spot.

Again, I had planned a second hike in the area, but I was feeling very satisfied with my morning excursion and had little desire to drive through or spend time Sedona so I headed back to Cottonwood and my campsite at Dead Horse Ranch State Park. I had some lunch and a refreshing shower and then I gave my Toyota a thorough cleaning in preparation for starting my journey home on the morrow. Then, in the late afternoon I consulted the park’s trail map and decided to walk the Tavasci Marsh trail based on the name alone. It was wonderful! There were huge old cottonwoods,

and dark mesquite trees on a field of deep green grass and purple mustard. I was on the plain below Tuzigoot with views of the monument on the hillside!

The trail led to an appealing wagon track that skirted between the edge of the field and the large marsh.

It was very quiet here, with just the occasional rustling of the dry reeds and grasses in the breeze. The trail then looped around and through the grassy field and dark mesquite trees towards the river. One thing that I had definitely learned on this trip is that as you drive through the expanses of desert it can often look very bleak and dull, but when you stop and walk there are so many things to see. The geology lends form and structure to the land while the many and varied plant communities add colour, shapes, textures and a strong life energy to the scene. Add in the call of a hawk, the quick scurry of a lizard, and small glimpses into the human occupation of this challenging land over millennia and you have a place that is compelling, beautiful, and not in the least bleak and dull.

I felt very grateful to be in this special and quite unique place on my last day before heading home, and I was happy to be ending my trip with the knowledge that I will definitely return to Arizona to explore more of its desert and mountain landscapes, communities, and historical sites.