Irving Nature Centre, Saint John, St. Martins, Fundy Parkway, Fundy National Park, Cape Enrage, Shepody National Wildlife Area, Hopewell Rocks Provincial Park
It is an easy drive of just over an hour from Fredericton to Saint John, but I was soon driving through fog as I got closer to the coast. Before driving into the city I visited the Irving Nature Centre, a 600-acre wooded peninsula and popular park for walking, hiking, and biking. These were my first views of the Bay of Fundy at Saints Rest Beach!


The fog began to lift as I walked several sections of coastal and forest trails to access small coves, a bog, and a boardwalk over a salt marsh where I saw the iconic red silty sediment of the Bay of Fundy.






I then drove to see Saint John’s Martello tower, a National Historic Site, but the entire tower was covered in tarps for restorations, and its famous hilltop view of Saint John’s harbour was completely obscured by fog. I did enjoy the Visitors Centre though, with its excellent film about the history of this military tower which was constructed at the time of the War of 1812.

Saint John is not the prettiest city, and it had a depressed and rather forlorn air on a foggy Sunday morning. It is a working city of factories, oil refineries, and harbour facilities, with its historic centre located around King’s Square and the nearby Prince William Streetscape. These late 19th-century stone and brick buildings were constructed after the Great Fire of 1877 and included banks, hotels, insurance, shipping, and legal offices.




Located nearby and on the riverfront was the Area 506 Waterfront Container Village. Many of its shops and cafes were not yet open when I visited, but that was fine as my eyes were drawn mostly to the workings of the river port facilities, with the shapes of the tall blue cranes ghostly in the fog.



Soon it was time to visit the Reversing Falls where, on an incoming high tide, the Bay of Fundy waters force the St. John River to reverse its flow and this creates rapids and whirlpools through a narrow gorge. There are parks and viewing platforms located at both ends of the bridge which spans the gorge, as well as views from the bridge. I loved watching the cormorants who took turns to fly in, perch on a boulder located in the centre of the falling swirls of water, and then dive into the river, often to return with a silver fish in their beak!



I continued on to St. Martins, less than an hour away, where I would camp for the night. I was here to see the sea caves at St. Martins beach. On the high tide, kayakers paddle along the coast here, and into the caves, but I would wait for the low tide to walk into the caves. I enjoyed visiting the nearby small marina, visitors centre, and two historic covered bridges over the Irish River, and then I checked into my campsite to putter and rest and read a while while I waited for the tide to recede.




In the late afternoon I returned to the beach with a piping hot order of fish and chips purchased from Spinney’s Seafood Restaurant and Market. This restaurant is consistently voted “Best Lobster Roll” in the province, and I was very tempted to order my very first lobster roll there, but I decided to save that pleasure for further down the road, maybe on PEI or in Nova Scotia. I parked my camp chair at the far end of the beach to enjoy my early dinner with views of the sea caves in the distance, and ended up chatting with a Quebecois fellow who had noticed my Toyota camper set up. He had been travelling all over Canada and the U.S. in his VW Eurovan for about 18 months and it was fun to talk together about places seen and places yet to see. Then, I enjoyed my walk across the wide cobbled beach to view and enter the sea caves that are carved deeply into the soft stone of the red sea cliffs.




The following morning I set out early to drive the Fundy Trail Parkway, a 30 km scenic coastal drive high above the Bay of Fundy that features twenty viewpoints, forest and coastal trails, and access to beaches and waterfalls. The morning was foggy again, and I stopped shortly after entering the parkway to wait a while for the fog to lift. I had paid over $20 to drive the parkway and I wanted to see it! I enjoyed the quiet of my foggy perch, took photos of the lovely plants around me, and then lay on my bed for an hour to read – quite happy with the forced rest!






But, I am not the most patient person, so, after that hour of rest I continued on a short distance through the fog to the next viewpoint and hiked down to Melvin Beach where winter storms had created an impressively high bench of layered stones.




I stopped again, just minutes further down the road, to do the short hike to Fuller Falls,




and then continued on to stop at most of the viewpoints. The Parkway dipped down to the Salmon River,




and then rose again to more viewpoints as the receding fog finally revealed the bright blues of the sea and he sky.

I loved driving the Parkway, and was impressed by its visitor facilities, but I also loved the quiet loneliness of the drive on Shepody Road from the East Gate of the Parkway to the border of Fundy National Park – few cars, and easy curves through low forested hills and wetland areas. I was happy that I would be spending three days in one place, camped at the fabulous Fundy National Park with its three campgrounds and multiple trails through upland forests, bog, and coastline. Highlights of my first afternoon in the park were walks on the Caribou interpretive nature trail and to Dickson Falls, and the drive to Wolfe Point to see its red covered bridge and to walk the beach there.








My campsite was in the Headquarters Campground, tucked under tall trees on a bank high above the Upper Salmon River and in walking distance to the town of Alma with its restaurants, shops, cafes, gas and groceries. No dining out for me, but I did indulge twice in a cinnamon bun from Kelly’s Bake Shop that had been recommended to me three times as I crossed Canada! The furthest west recommendation had come from a young woman at a Toyota service centre in Winnipeg. She had spent many summers in the area with her grandparents and said that I, “just have to get a cinnamon bun from Kelly’s”. As I set out on my first morning of explorations in the area, fog again obscured the bay, and the Upper Salmon River at low tide left the fishing boats in Alma’s marina high and dry, and when I returned in the afternoon the fog had mostly cleared and the boats were happily floating again!




My first destination of the day was to see the lighthouse at Cape Enrage. I would visit it three times and each time it would be hiding in thick fog! But the drive there was fabulous, with thick borders of vibrant wildflowers lining the road as I passed salt marshes on one side and fields on that other that were created in the 1700s by Acadian settlers who had diked the salt marshes to create arable land and pastures.






From Cape Enrage, I drove to the Shepody National Wildlife Area to hike the beach out to Mary’s Point which is located on a forested headland at the end of several kilometres of beach walking that is only fully accessible at the low tide. With forest, beach, salt marsh, and freshwater wetlands, the Shepody Wildlife Area is an important ecological reserve for resident, breeding, and migrating waterfowl and shorebirds, including hundreds of thousands of semipalmated sandpipers that congregate here in the late summer. All was quiet though, for me, on this late morning, with just a slight breeze riffling through the dune grasses, and with only a few sets of footprints to show that others had also walked this beach. I love my times in these lonely places, with sea air and long distance views and the meditative repetition of one foot in front of the other.





After my wonderful walk at Mary’s Point, I drove up the coast to the Hopewell Rocks Provincial Park, one of the best places to witness the tidal changes of the Bay of Fundy on the New Brunswick coast. Admission to the park is rather pricey, but it allows park access for two days to better enable viewing of both the high and low tides. I had planned my arrival for a few hours before the high tide in order to have time in the visitor centre and to walk the trails. The Hopewell Rocks are sea stacks, known here as flowerpots, that are carved by the sea from the soft red sandstone cliffs along two kilometres of shoreline at Hopewell Cape. Here is a view down to the flowerpots of Big Cove,

and here are views from the viewing platform down to the flowerpots at Lovers Arch, as well as one view taken from down on the beach as the tide rose inexorably (middle right photo).




All visitors were then required to exit the beach, and it was quite something to see the high tide rise to fully engulf the bases of the flowerpots and splash against the cliffs. The average tidal change here at Hopewell Rocks is between 12-16 metres (40-52 feet), with maximum tides of 16 metres (52-56 feet), while across the bay, at Burntcoat in Nova Scotia, the maximum tides are even higher, with the world’s highest recorded tidal change of 21.6 metres (70.9 feet)! On each tidal cycle, up to 160 billion tons of water flow into and out of the Bay of Fundy!

The next morning I again drove to Hopewell Rocks, this time to walk on the sea floor at low tide. Luckily, there was a free guided walking tour beginning as I arrived and it was was excellent! I learned many new and interesting facts about the Bay of Fundy and the Cape’s geology and history. There were fewer visitors this morning, and it was fun to take a slow and educational walk from one end of the Cape to the other.






The day was fine, and as I left Hopewell Rocks I decided to try again to see the lighthouse at Cape Enrage, and to explore a bit on the way. Google maps showed a lighthouse, the picturesque wooden Anderson Hollow Lighthouse, located in the oddest place in the middle of an estuary, but access was impossible as the road there was closed due to bridge work. Nearby though was the tiny hamlet of Harvey with its historic community hall built in 1884, while across the street was a church of similar vintage, and nearby (and all along this coast) were other fine heritage homes and buildings.








I considered a second visit to the Shepody Wildlife Area and Mary’s Point as I passed, but the sky was bright and I really wanted to tour the lighthouse at Cape Enrage. ( I had driven there a second time, on my return from Hopewell Rocks the previous day, but it was still encased in fog.) Third time lucky, I hoped, but it was not to be. It was a beautiful, pastoral drive, with sun, sun, sun, until I drove up and into a wall of fog just five minutes away from the lighthouse! The woman at the visitors centre told me that there had been bright sun for about an hour that had ended shortly before my arrival, and she had taken some lucky visitors into the lighthouse for a tour. (Tours are not allowed during periods of fog because of the loudness of the foghorn for peoples’ ears.) Oh well! I walked about for various views, and then descended the staircase down to the narrow beach. The cliffs here are composed of Carboniferous sedimentary rocks from 320 million years ago and contain many types of fossils.




On my return to camp in the late afternoon, I considered choosing a short trail to hike, but opted instead to try out the park’s outdoor swimming pool. What a treat! Full, but not too full, of happy kids and families, with a bright sun and sea breeze, it was a great way to end my three day visit at Fundy National Park. The next morning, as I left my campground, I stopped one last time to again photograph the boats at Alma. Morning fog was present again,

but it burned off as I headed inland toward Moncton. There, I stopped at a riverside park and considered waiting for the time of the Tidal Bore event, a wave which travels up the Peticodiac River on an incoming high tide from the Bay of Fundy. But it was already very hot, humid, and busy in Moncton close to noon, and I was anxious to finally see and cross the Confederation Bridge to Prince Edward Island. So, off I went, very very happy with my time in wonderful New Brunswick, and knowing that I would return again later to explore its northern coast.







































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































