Ferry Crossing, Île du Havre Aubert and Île du Cap Aux Meules
I was excited to drive onto the Madeleine II ferry for the five hour crossing to Cap Aux Meules which is the second largest, and most populated, of the Îles-de-la-Madeleine. It was a calm and beautiful day, with smooth sailing, and I enjoyed exploring the ship’s many lounges and outdoor decks.
Everyone was in a holiday mood, and this passenger was feeling very relaxed indeed!
I had hoped to get some blogging done, but when I asked about wifi, la madame a dit (avec un sourire), “On se connecte avec la mer.” I read, wandered, sorted photos, and wandered, and I was very excited for the first views of Île d’Entrée which is the only populated island that is not connected to the other islands of the archipelago. Here is a view from our closest passing,
and soon there were views of Cap aux Meules from the other side of the ship.
We headed for the Port du Cap Aux Meules, and had great views of the harbour as we entered and then waited for the first levels of vehicles to unload.
The harbour area and the town of Cap aux Meules (the main administrative and service centre of the islands) were very busy with people and traffic, and I went directly to my excellent and peaceful campsite at Barachois Camping on the other side of the island. My exploring would start the following day with a trip to Île Havre Aubert which is the southernmost island in the archipelago. It is connected to the island of Cap aux Meules by a highway that sits atop a long sandspit,
with the beach and sea on one side and a wide lagoon on the other which is bounded on its far side by another long spit. (It is super interesting to look at the geography of the islands using google maps, satellite view.)
On Les Îles I had expected to see long beaches, grassy dunes, lagoons, red sea cliffs, and colourful houses and characterful settlements, but the hills and the forests of the islands were a surprise to me. As I arrived on Île Havre Aubert, and approached its namesake town, I passed a sign for La Butte St. Antoine, a tall and steep grassy hill that called to me. I climbed up to here,
heading for the far peak, and noticed that a road can take cars half way up! But, it felt really good to climb after all of the level trails I walked on PEI! From the top there were views down to another, lower butte (de la Croix), and beyond that to the curving beach of La Grave and the long line of Sandy Hook spit in the distance.
I walked the trail down and then up to the top of Butte de la Croix, with views back to the higher butte and its grey and pink cliff slashing down to the sea.
This is a zoomed in view of La Grave below. It is a former fishing village, with its grey cedar-shake heritage buildings now housing art galleries, craft and gift shops, restaurants and boutiques.
I drove into La Grave, but it was very busy with people strolling and cars looking for parking. I found a spot, but had little desire to stroll with the tourists, so I went to the wonderful high beach of stones behind the shops, with views forward up the beach towards a headland, and looking back towards the buttes.
Next I drove to the harbour, with a stop on the hill heading up out of La Grave, for a great view back,
and then another stop to gaze across the shallow basin of Havre Amherst to the dunes of Sandy Hook spit, my next destination.
And here is the Sandy Hook beach! Looking first to the west,
then to the east.
Wow! The spit is around 6 km long and I walked about halfway, and was very happy indeed. I walked to around here, with views towards Île d’Entrée,
before turning for the walk back.
The strong wind was pushing dry grains of sand at speed over the darker wet grains, creating wispy, ever-shifting, and phantom-like ribbons of sand towards me. In places, the dry sand becomes trapped by an object and creates attractive patterns that were fun to photograph.
I found a quiet place for lunch, by the lagoon and out of the wind, and then I went for a walk along the Point à Margarite where I found lovely solitude, beautiful views, and then a patch of wild raspberries, perfect for dessert.
I continued along the south coast of Île Havre Aubert to the lighthouse at Cap du Sud,
and then along the west coast, loving the drive and the views of colourful houses scattered here and there over the undulating landscape. I made a quick stop at the beginning of Plage de l’Ouest where kite surfers were making the most of the wind. (You can click on any photo for a larger view.)
Then, I took the Rue de la Montagne east up into the hills, and through forest, to cut across the centre of the island, and for a few moments I felt like I could be on a B.C. Gulf Island. It was a very pretty drive!
I rejoined the main road, Highway 199, to return to Île Cap Aux Meules where I decided to explore several sites on the west side of the island before heading to my campsite. I headed for the Anse de l’Étang du Nord, where I admired this beautiful sculpture entitled, “Les Pecheurs”,
and then I continued to the lighthouse at Cap Hérissé which sits atop dramatically-sculpted and high red cliffs.
The views were spectacular from every angle as I walked all around and away from the lighthouse and along the cliffs.
In the distance I could see a small ridge of buttes,
and though I was beginning to feel tired I couldn’t resist the walk there, and then the climb up.
The wind waving through the grasses and flowers, the views, the sea, the air – it was all so incredibly beautiful and exhilirating!
I felt replete as I made my way back down to the lighthouse,
but I did make one last stop at the clifftops of La Belle Anse where I viewed the cliffs carefully, as common sense and the very graphic sign warns one to do!
And then, finally, I returned to camp, a little tired, a lot happy, and very very grateful to be visiting les très belles Îles-de-la- Madeleine.
Red Point Provincial Park, Souris Lighthouse and Beach, Sally’s Beach and Hike, Basin Head Provincial Park
This is my wonderful camping spot at Red Point Provincial Park on the east coast of Prince Edward Island!
I’ve seen seals in the water near to shore, and off shore a small group of gannets (one of my very favourite birds) dive at speed into the sea for their breakfast. This is my breakfast today – pancakes inspired by some Haskap berrries that I picked at a U-pick yesterday.
Yesterday, I also decided to visit Les Isles-de-la-Madeleine, a wind-swept archipelago of twelve islands formed of low red cliffs, dunes, and long spits of sand. It is located some 134 km north of PEI, and I will be on the 1:30 p.m. ferry today for the five hour journey. I have always wanted to visit there, and considered it when planning my drive across Canada, but I had decided that it would just be too much to add to this already very long trip. But, yesterday I was in the town of Souris, just south of here, to visit the lighthouse and beach,
and from the beach I saw the ferry from the isles coming into the harbour.
Hmmm. Maybe I should go? I continued south to the lovely, small, tucked away Sally’s Beach Provincial Park to have my picnic lunch and to walk a trail there. It was a red sand beach,
and the trail to the far point led first on a boardwalk, then along a mowed path, and then through a pleasing forest,
with peek-a-boo views of a large bay on one side, the rocky reef at the end of the point,
and then views back towards Sally’s beach.
By the time I had returned to Souris (after the fun U-pick in the warm afternoon sun), I had decided to go to Les Isles if I could arrange it. I used the town’s library to access the internet to organize sailings and my first few nights of camping, and to cancel my few Nova Scotia bookings. I was going! Then, gas, and groceries in town, and back to my lovely campground to struggle with WordPress and try to write a new PEI blog post (I didn’t get very far because of frustratingly poor wifi!). I absolutely love Prince Edward Island (I knew I would), and I am thinking of spending more time on the island when I return from Les Isles. It is rare for me to be impulsive during travel (I am usually 100 % organized), and it is a little disorienting, but also exciting!
Now, here are some photos from my visit yesterday morning to the wonderful Basin Head Provincial Park, located just a five minute drive from my Red Point campground. It is a very popular park and has both red and white sand beaches, red cliffs, a fisheries museum, gift shop, cafe, and ice cream shop. It is also known for its “singing sands”, and teenagers love to jump from the piers into the river outflow (or inflow depending on the tide).
I was the first person to arrive in the parking lot, and I loved the deserted feel of the place before the workers and families arrive. This is the beach and headland to the south of the piers,
and this is the spectacular beach to the north. I headed out in that direction,
with views back as I passed the empty lifeguard chairs.
I had the entire beautiful beach to myself, and I was just thrilled to be there with the sea and the sky, the wind, the waves, the sand, and the dunes.
I walked for almost two kilometres until I neared some shore birds ahead,
and then turned back as I didn’t want to disturb them. The walk back was just as beautiful and inspiring as the walk out had been!
And though I was mostly held rapt by the big open expanses, I also noticed lovely bits of art on the sand, created by nature. Sticks and seaweed, with shadows, and a feather…
The wind was wonderful, strong and warm,
and there was a good amount of surf that increased as I neared the end of my walk.
A few families had now arrived, and the life guards were setting up their stations – the yellow flag means strong swimmers only.
What an exceptional place, and I hope to return for a swim! I have loved every part of PEI that I visited, and I am anxious to share them with you, but that will have to wait until I return from Les Isles-de-la-Madeleine. So, goodbye from beautiful PEI, and bonjour Quebec et les isles!
Addendum: I am actually on the isles now! (Three days after starting this post, first with bad wifi, then with no access to wifi at all). It’s pouring rain out today, and I finally have good wifi here at my new campground! Tout le monde parle en français autour de moi, et Les Isles sont incroyable, merveilleux, formidable! A bientôt!)
Confederation Bridge, Miscouche Acadian Museum and Parish Church of Saint John the Baptist, West Point Harbour and Lighthouse, and Cedar Dunes Provincial Park
I have wifi at this campground (a small miracle), but no power. It has been next to impossible to create posts while on the road as I am camping almost every night. I had hoped to create posts for each province as I travelled, but that may have to be a winter project as there is no way I will ever catch up!
Thank you to those of you who have written to ask where I am and if I’m okay. All has gone mostly well (just too much driving), and I have been very happy to reach the Maritime Provinces. I loved New Brunswick, especially along the Fundy Coast, and I plan to visit more of New Brunswick when I begin the return trip west, after visiting Nova Scotia. I have decided to not visit Newfoundland and Labrador on this trip after all. I want to make a separate trip to that magnificent province (flying this time) when I am fresh and haven’t already travelled thousands and thousands of kilometres!
Today I crossed over the Confederation Bridge to Prince Edward Island!
That was exciting! What a beautiful bridge, and such an impressive feat of engineering. It was a tremendous experience to cross over that wide wide expanse of deep blue water. I thought of the Micmac peoples who have inhabited Prince Edward Island for over 10,000 years. They would have arrived by sea!
As I approached this low-lying island from near the end of the bridge, and saw the bank of eroding red sand at its edge, I thought, “It will never last! It is so ephemeral, and at the mercy of the sea!” But, once on land, its solidity (such as it is) made itself known. This province could easily rename itself Prince Edward Agricultural Island. Almost right away I was passing fields of shoulder-high corn, and acres of potatoes growing in the red soil. Grain was ripening, hay had just been cut, and lovely old farmhouses stole my heart (even those, and sometimes especially those, that need a little TLC).
I made a stop at the Miscouche Acadian Museum and learned about the long and difficult history of the Acadians, French colonial settlers who were displaced when the British eventually gained control of PEI, formerly known as L’Isle Saint Jean. Here is the very large and beautiful wooden Church of the Parish of Saint John the Baptist in Miscouche.
Near to the church, a quintet of older ladies were sitting and chatting in a shady park. I walked over to ask them if they thought that I should take a secondary road, Highway 11, rather than the principal road, to reach my campground at West Point. “Would it be more scenic?” The short stretch of highway begins just blocks from where they sat, but not one of them has ever been on that road! (Granted, two of them don’t drive.). I was flabbergasted, but didn’t show it of course. Which is more crazy, I wondered as I walked away – my travelling an incredibly ridiculous number of kilometres all of this way across Canada, or someone not having taken a scenic coastal road which is practically in their back yard? I guess the answer depends on who you are!
Of course, I took Highway 11, and it was a wonderful drive that passed many beautiful farms and small settlements, as well as the sea.
I rejoined the principal road leading west, and soon arrived at the small harbour of West Point,
and less than a kilometre from there was the excellent Cedar Dunes Provincial Park, my home for my first two nights on PEI. Here is my trusty Toyota in my site (Thank you Toyota for bringing me all this way!),
and here is the beach just a minute’s walk away!
And I had a swim! What a surprise and such a pleasure! I had assumed that it would be too cold to swim here in the sea, but the temperature was perfect, there were fun waves rolling in, and the buoyancy was divine. I’ll swim again tomorrow!
After a simple dinner in camp I went for a walk along the beach, to the lighthouse and beyond, finding pretty rocks as I went.
It was the kind of PEI summer day that I had long imagined, and I am looking forward to my days ahead here. I’ll say goodnight now, with this last photo of the view from my campsite, near sunset, as I sit and type these words.
Thank you for reading, and goodnight from Atlantic Canada.
I guess that I have finally decided to continue with this newest journey, seeing as I am now in Ottawa! I had many reservations about doing a cross-Canada drive before I started out, and those reservations and worries have dogged me since I left Vancouver: I’ve been worried about the long driving distances, the wear and tear on my dear Toyota, the cost of gas and accommodations (although I am camping on most nights, many campgrounds have become quite pricey), the vagaries of the weather (too hot, too cold), the bugs, etc., etc. I have considered turning back west multiple times a day, pretty much every day, as of this writing, even though I passed the geographic centre of Canada, located a short distance east of Winnipeg, many days ago.
But, each morning, despite my misgivings (and a few panicked calls to Brent), I continued to head East, resulting in my arrival here in Ottawa! I had originally planned to begin posting about my cross-Canada trip when in Winnipeg, but I held off because I still wasn’t certain that I wasn’t going to turn around and head back home. So, I am finally making a start with this first post, “Ontario – Part I”, but I don’t know how often I’ll be able to post as I have little access to wifi as I travel. We’ll see how it goes!
Whiteshell Provincial Park – Falcon Beach Campground, Manitoba, to Kakabeka Falls Provincial Park, Ontario, 531 kilometres
Shortly before leaving Manitoba, I lost the prairie, with its far-reaching, expansive, beautiful-sky views. The road was now bordered by trees, and would continue that way for many hundreds and hundreds of kilometres across Ontario. Luckily, that monotony would be interrupted often by quick glimpses (as I drove on by) of pretty lakes, beautiful marshes perfect for moose, and wide and impressive rivers.
On this first day in Ontario, there was a mix of sunny skies, and some very heavy afternoon thunder showers. I drove mostly in silence, but I also listened to CDs – Elton John, Neil Young, Van Morrison, and Abba were good company on the road. A highlight of the day was the sighting of a mother moose and her calf feeding by the side of the highway, and a short while later I reached Kakabeka Falls Provincial Park, my stop for the night. I viewed the impressive falls,
and I walked the trail along the top of the gorge, with views back upriver.
The trail I was on was part of a portage route used for centuries by the Ojibwa, and later by the fur traders of the North West Company as they ventured westward from Fort William on the shores of Lake Superior (near present-day Thunder Bay.)
Kakabeka Falls to Pukaskwa National Park (342 km)
The next day I was back on Highway 17, heading east, despite having slept poorly and feeling strongly that I should head west instead! I made my first stop just past Thunder Bay at the Terry Fox Memorial which is located just west of where Terry had to end his Marathon of Hope due to a return of cancer, this time in his lungs. He is a hero of mine, and I always took time in my teaching, when it was close to our school Terry Fox runs, to impress upon my students how strong, courageous, humble, and determined this young man was, and how he contributed so much to our country and to the fight against cancer. He ran 5,373 km across Canada – nearly a marathon a day for 143 straight days – and since his run hundreds of millions of dollars have been raised for cancer research. I was happy to see others stopped there as well.
I continued on, with peeks of Lake Superior as Highway 17 travelled sometimes close to the great lake and sometimes farther from its shores, up and around hills, and past many small lakes, marshes, streams and rivers. It was Canada Day, and I listened to some of my Canadian CDs (Neil Young (again), Joni Mitchell, and Spirit of the West), and I also tuned in to CBC radio for their coast-to-coast coverage of Canada Day events, including some of the performances being held at the Parliament Buildings in Ottawa. It was a good day of driving, and a highlight was seeing another moose – a female who crossed the highway about 300 metres ahead of me, surprisingly graceful on her incredibly long legs.
I had a reservation for the night (the first of 3) at the Agawa Bay campground in Lake Superior Provincial Park, but I had read positive reviews about Pukaskwa National Park which has a FCFS campsite, and many trails, so I took the access road and 15 km later I was able to get a great campsite and I knew that I wanted to stay there. It was such a wonderful park, with iconic and beautiful Canadian Shield, “Group of Seven”, scenery – rugged rocky headlands, off-shore islands, dramatic pines, three long curving beaches of golden sand,
and the seemingly endless expanse of Lake Superior.
The vegetation was gorgeous as well with many low-growing shrubs, mosses, and lichens,
and also wildflowers that were new to me. Yellow-blooming blue bead lillies, and tiny pink twinflowers, grew in areas of shade,
and I also met (clockwise from top left) bunchberrry, Labrador tea, Canada anemone, encrusted saxifrage (an Arctic plant that is able to grow this far south because of the cool conditions created by the massive amount of water in Lake Superior), and wild rose.
Three trails led directly from the campground and the Visitors Centre, and I connected all three to hike a total of about 8 kilometres. I was excited to find the iconic National Park red chairs atop a headland above Hattie Cove,
and I marvelled at the shapes of the ancient rocks, sculpted by glaciers, waves, and wind.
It was a truly marvellous park, and my favourite stop in Ontario. Thank you Pukaskwa!
Pukaskwa National Park to Lake Superior Provincial Park, Agawa Bay Campground – 276 km
The next day was a shorter driving day enlivened with views of lake, after lake, after river, after lake. Very scenic. Unfortunately, driving on HIghway 17 at speed, with other cars behind and not much of a shoulder, makes it very difficult to stop for photos. Fog had rolled in over Lake Superior as I entered the provincial park, and made for this atmospheric photo when I stopped at Old Woman Bay.
I continued on to Agawa Bay campground, at the far southern end of the park, and found my campsite with its view, across the camp road, of Lake Superior.
The fog came and went all day as I strolled the long beach, searched for pretty rocks, spent time at the Visitor Centre, and read an entire book. I broke up my reading sessions with small walks on the beach, and I was drawn there again to watch a long-lasting and beautiful sunset.
The next day, I drove back west to access several park hikes that I was interested in. First there was the short 500 m trail to the Agawa Rock where there are 150-400 year-old pictographs of animals, canoes, and supernatural creatures, painted with red ochre by the Ojibwa. Viewing the pictographs involves walking along a narrow slanted ledge below a rock face, and I found that my hiking boots were slippery on the very smooth rock. I was alone there, so I reluctantly decided against taking those last few steps to view the art.
Next, I drove to the trailhead for the Pinguisibi Trail which follows the Sand River for 3 km upstream, past a series of falls and serene stretches of river.
It was a wonderful trail, full of roots and rocks and hard packed soil, in the shade of trees and with the rush and roar of the river alongside. But, I was alone again, with no other cars in the parking area, and I was concerned about the possibility of meeting a bear. I kept up a nice loud silly and cheerful monologue, “Go away bear! I have bear spray but I really don’t want to use it!”, but after about 2 km, as I got further from the trailhead, I decided that I had best not go on. I turned back reluctantly, and of course passed a pair of hikers about halfway back. Oh well! My next stop was beautiful Katherine Cove where I had planned to have lunch,
but the highway was close and interrupted the peace so I returned back to camp. Feeling somewhat disappointed with my morning, I made lunch, read again for a while, revisited the Visitors Centre, and then decided to do the 3.2 km lakeside trail that led from the campground to the mouth of the Agawa River. My expectations were low, even though a young park interpreter had said that the trail was “pretty”. It was wonderful! And definitely very pretty, along an old road and then a sandy trail with grasses, flowers, birch trees, and tall, very old white pines.
I saw bunch berrry and twin flowers again, as well as a hardy plant with tiny yellow flowers growing in pure sand, orange hawkweed, and (wow) pink lady’s slipper!
Agawa Bay Campground to Lake Grundy Provincial Park – 516 km
This was a long day of driving, with a section of freeway that I hadn’t expected, just as I was beginning to feel tired. I made a quick stop at the French River, which I had been excited to see as it was an important part of an historic canoe route, along with the Ottawa and Mattawa Rivers and Lake Nipissing, that connected settlements on the St. Lawrence with the upper Great Lakes and the far West. The route was used by indigenous travellers, by the voyageurs, and by the great explorers Mackenzie and Thompson. The Visitor’s Centre was closed by the time I arrived, and despite my fatigue I began a trail walk, but it was buggy and I quickly decided to retrace my steps, take a quick photo of the river,
and continue on to my next campsite at Grundy Lake Provincial Park, not far distant, and luckily accessed on a quiet and slow highway.
Grundy Lake Provincial Park actually has four lakes, swimming beaches, and trails to hike so I had booked two nights here. I arrived hot and sweaty (so humid! 37 with the humidex), and should have gone for a swim, but I chose a shower instead and the water was really hot. Aaargh! The following morning, I woke early and set off to hike the short Swan Lake trail. It was an auspicious start as the trail led right away onto a floating boardwalk over a beautiful small lake with irises and pond lilies, a beaver lodge, and gorgeous rocks and trees all around.
But, after I crossed the boardwalk and entered the forest the black flies and deer flies began to swarm me. I probably should have turned back, but I continued on the 1.5 km trail at a faster walk, then a jog, then a quick stop to break off a branch of leaves to use as a switch, then a bit of a run, then a quick stop for another switch for my other hand, then a full run to get out of there, switching those branches back and forth around my head like a crazy person. I was hot, bothered, sweaty, and highly irritated, and it wasn’t yet nine in the morning! How would I spend the entire day here? And, the next day of driving was going to be a long one, so I decided to forgo my second night of camping at Grundy Lake to travel to North Bay, about two hours away, for a hotel night of AC and electricity, clean sheets and wifi. It was a good decision, with a lovely drive along quiet roads,
and a long stop in the pretty town of Callander, on Lake Nippising,
where I spent time in the welcoming library while I did laundry in the laundromat next door. The day was a welcome break from camping and the heat.
North Bay to Fitzroy Provincial Park – 313 km
A rainy day of travel, off and on, with just a few stops along the highway including here, for obvious reasons,
and here, at Deux Rivières, where the Ottawa and Maganasipi rivers meet.
Then, on the latter half of the day’s journey, the terrain changed to the rich farmland of the wide Ottawa valley, with its large dairy farms and fields of corn. The day grew very warm and muggy, the traffic increased as I got closer to Ottawa, and suddenly there was freeway driving and a missed turn. Thank goodness for the Google Maps lady who got me back on the right road to arrive at Fitzroy Provincial Park, located on the Ottawa River. I had planned to swim here, but the beach was incredibly busy with families and groups large and small seeking an escape from the heat on a Sunday afternoon (I took the least “crowded looking” photo I could).
I returned to my campsite, hot, sweaty, tired, and despondent to mope a bit (I don’t do well in the heat). But then, I put on my bathing suit and returned to the beach, determined to at least put my feet in. The water was cool, and I waded in, and then swam, out past the roped off area and the busyness, to better views of trees across the river and clouds moving across the sky. I was swimming in the Ottawa River, so I guessed that I was likely going to finish this drive across Canada…
