Wicklow Way – Days 3 and 4

Well, I made it to Glendalough, 60+ km in 4 days!  I am resting my feet at the hostel, while waiting for my laundry to finish, and soon I will go out in the late afternoon sun to photograph the Glendalough monastic settlement and perhaps take a 3 km walk around the lower lake.

Day 3 of my walk started off in a rather silly manner.  After finishing my breakfast outside in the morning sun at the lovely Knockree hostel, I was gathering up my day pack  just as the leader of a rather large and very noisy group of German teenagers led her troupe out of the hostel’s front door saying, “O.K.!  Let’s go!”  Now, the previous evening, I had listened to these rambuctious and giddy teenagers for several hours as they interacted and played games outside, and one or two of their enthusiastic number seemed to only communicate by shouting.  Really!

So, I had to decide, go ahead of them, or wait for awhile and go after?

—–Interruption!  They’ve just walked into the hostel here at Glendalough!!  Noisly! —–

Now, as my family knows, I am not one to linger in the mornings when I have places to go and things to see, and I did not want to wait a half hour, or an hour, and then perhaps still end up playing leap frog with them and being always in their vicinity.  So, I grabbed up my bag and hustled off ahead of them.  They were only a hundred metres behind at the start, and it took me about 3 or 4 km, at a very fast pace, mostly uphill, at the beginning of a 21 km walk (not too smart Christine!), to finally evade their big voices.

Then, hourray, I was finally in peaceful territory again!  The big uphill climb was rewarded by a view over Powerscourt Waterfall, Ireland’s tallest at 121 m.

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Then, more climbing, towards Djouce Mountain, on the right in the photo above, interrupted  by a steep dip down into a saddle and the River Dargle, a very pretty spot where some people had camped.

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Then, back up again, and more steep climbing along the shoulder of Djouce until, in penance (and ultimately reward), for having decided to send my big bag with a transport company, I made a detour of about a kilometer (return) and an additional 150 m of steep elevation gain, to the summit of Djouce mountain (725 m). So beautiful! I was the only one up there, and I spent a good half hour enjoying the gorgeous 360 degree views, having a rest, and drying out my socks and boots in the warm wind and bright sun. Here are some pictures of the approach to Djouce and views from the summit, as well as one of myself up there using the self-timer on my camera.

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The view east towards the sea, with Great Sugar Loaf now behind me to the northeast.
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South
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West
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North
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Me!

The next part of the trail was also fantastic, walking 3 km along a raised, narrow boardwalk (there to protect the blanket bog and its vegetation) up over the long ridge of White Hill with views all around…

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Then down towards the Barr valley …

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where I had my first view of Lough Tay which borders an estate owned by the Guinness family.

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The next 7 or so km followed mostly forest tracks…

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Then downwards along the edges of some farm fields and over a few stiles…

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Until I finally reached this crossroads!

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The last 2 km, along a country road, brought me, finally, – hot, tired, and a little sunburnt, but happy – to my night’s accommodation at the Coach House Inn, built in 1820, in the pretty villge of Roundwood, reputed to be Ireland’s highest village.  I had a well-earned cider, roast beef dinner, and then a 12 hour sleep!

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This morning, after a filling breakfast of bacon and eggs, I called a cab to take me to where I had left the Way the night before, and then decided, while waiting, that I would ride an additional 4 km, to avoid a long stretch of road walking and in order to conserve some energy for my afternoon arrival at Glendalough.  The taxi driver, who was returning to Glendalough after my ride, offered to take my big bag to the hostel for me.  I hestitated for a moment, as that would be the second “cheat” in one day, but then said yes to the offer and was very glad I did as it was again a very hot morning of walking.  This last day, now only 8 km instead of 12, continued with ascending and descending hills, mostly along farmers fields and along forest plantations, with a bit of open moorland.

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The next photo is taken looking back from where I have come, and is the last view I will have of the distinctive and beautiful Great Sugar Loaf mountain as I finally leave it behind me.  It used to be in front of me!

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So, after about 3 hours of steady walking with only a few 5-minute breaks, I finally got my first view of Glendalough, the valley of the lakes.

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A quick descent down a lovely, cool, shaded forest trail, and I arrived at a very busy car park, where huge coach buses were arriving to deposit hundreds of people for tours of  Glendalough.  It was a bit of a shock after a very quiet morning where I had only encountered a few other walkers!  But, after hastily obtaining directions, I was out of the car park and around the visitors center to see my first enticing and peaceful view of the monastic settlement at Glendalough.  Knowing I would be back later, I took a only few quick photos as I walked the short distance to my hostel.

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And, just five minutes from my hostel, I was lucky enough to have this be the last photo of my walk along the Wicklow Way!

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Wicklow Way – Days 1 and 2

I was so nervous as I packed up and headed out, then stressed by needing to locate a bus stop which had changed because of road work, and then just missing a bus, and then arriving to a festival in Marlay Park which necessitated a short detour.  But, these were very tiny problems really, and I know the exact moment my stress and worry about this walk melted away.  I was out of Marley Park, and headed up a steep road bordered deeply by green when I noticed that I noticed blackberry, ivy, and thistle.  I was finally grounded in present.  Thank you plants!

I headed uphill, and made the acquaintance of a very pretty mule who greeted me over a fence and we looked at each other for a bit.  The next part of the Wicklow Way zigzaged up what is basically a logging road, locally called a forest road or a forest track.  As I climbed, lovely views of Dublin city and the harbour opened up to the north.

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After more climbing, finally the views I’d come for!  Rolling green hills and valleys, and then the beautiful open moor.

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Day hikers heading up a spur to the top of Fairy Castle

The Wicklow Mountains generally run East/West, and the Wicklow Way runs North/South, so basically one climbs hills and then descends to valleys along the route.  Today involved only the one climb and then a descent into the beautiful Glencullen valley.

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I had previously decided to start my walk off easy by dividing the typical first stage of the walk (21 km from Marlay Park to Knockree), into 2 smaller pieces.  So my first day was only about 10 km, with an extra 2km to walk along a pretty country road (here looking back towards where I left the Way), to Johnny Fox’s pub in Glencullen to arrange for transport to my bed and breakfast.

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There was quite a delay in waiting for the taxi so I chatted with locals Annette, and Peter and his father P.D. (not the gents in the photo), both veterans of the Wicklow Way as well as other walks, including first 200 km of the Camino over the Pyrennies.  PD shook his head more than once at the size and weight of my pack!  They very nicely offered to give me a lift the five miles to my bed and breakfast, and that was the first of 3 friendy and kind rides from locals in and around Enniskerry.  Thank you everyone!

I had a nice dinner in Enniskerry, a very pretty village, at Poppies Cafe, which will be recognizable to anyone who has seen the geographically-challenged, and ridiculously-premised movie “Leap Year.”  Neverthless, I enjoyed the film because of the best efforts of its leads (a cute and spunky Amy Adams, and gorgeous British actor Mathew Goode, offering up what I now know to be a bad Irish accent), but chiefly because of the lovely shots of the Ireland.  I have more location shots from the film if anyone is interested!

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I had a very long and restful sleep at the fittingly-named “Ramblers Rest”, and woke up quite early this morning ready to go.  After a good breakfast, I took a taxi back to the point where I had left the Way the day before.  I started uphill, on a picture-perfect, sunny summer morning, climbing steeply out of the Glencullen Valley, listening to mama ewes calling their lambs.

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I was soon climbing steadily up another switchbacking forest road which was lined with foxgloves, bracken ferns, and prickly yellow gorse.

Because I had started this morning halfway along the first stage, there were no other walkers about and I was happily, blessedly alone for about two hours before I started to meet a few other walkers coming the other way who had left Knockree in the morning.  I did see two deer though!  The first disappeared just as I lifted up my camera, and so when I saw a second deer, I just stood and watched her until she too quietly disappeared into the forest.

Here are some wonderful views from the top of today’s climb, looking east towards the sea with Dublin towards the north and then Wicklow and Bray.  I thought the view special enough to figure out how to take a panorama shot on my camera!

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Soon, I was descending into the Glencree Valley, and then after another few kilometres I arrived at the very pretty Knockree Hostel shortly after noon.  So quick!  They very kindly let me check in early, and I have the whole day ahead of me in this wonderful and peaceful place to check my email, write this blog, prepare some food, and then choose a book from the shelf.

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My room is at the top left in the white building, number 3.

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I’m so glad I splurged on a private room instead of bunking it with 8 or 10 others!
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And this is the view of Sugar Loaf Mountain from my room!
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The view from the dining room.

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The last two photos are views from directly in front of the hostel.  It’s just past four o’clock now, and there’s a warm, late-afternoon light that I can see from the lounge, calling me out for a stroll to stretch my legs and appreciate the view once again before I start to prepare my dinner and begin my evening.  Tomorrow is a big day, 21 km!

Thank you so much for reading!