On my third day at Michelle’s farm, after all the various morning chores were done, Michelle, Kate, Olive, André and I went for a hike up Sinkut Mountain, a local landmark and high point on the surrounding plateau. The name comes from the Dakelh (Carrier) name Tsink’ut which means ochre peak. An expression in this region is, “If you can see Sinkut Mountain, you know you are home.”
I followed Michelle’s truck along various gravel roads in my Highlander and we let our vehicles do the first part of the climb up the mountain.
I love the line created by the lower edge of the clouds in this photo, and also the angle that the clouds are leaning which gives a sense of arrested movement above the heavy stillness of the land below.
When the road became too steep and rough, we tucked our vehicles into a small pullout and walked the last few kilometers uphill. Here is the gang at the start of our walk up.
And here they are at the top with the lakes, river, forests and farmland of the Nechako Valley spread out below.
There is a communication tower at the top of Sinkut Mountain and we had fun exploring the site and scrambling around all over the top of the mountain, taking in the views from every direction.
At snack time, I enjoyed taking some portraits of Michelle and the kids.
MichelleKateAndréOlive
And here’s one of me taken by Michelle.
Pleased with our outing, we headed happily back down the mountain.
On the return trip home we stopped off for a visit with one of Michelle’s good friends, Lisa. We had tea on her deck overlooking Sinkut Lake, with an excellent view of Sinkut Mountain in the distance.
Back at the house there were jobs to do, dinner to prep and enjoy, dishes to clean, and then an evening of cards, games, and piano and violin practice for the kids. Close to bed time, I walked down towards the garden to listen and watch for the sandhill cranes which regularly feed in the lower or adjacent fields and then rise up each evening near sunset to fly elsewhere, calling to each other as they depart. I found Yodel on the way. “So this is where you get so muddy!” I exclaimed. (He had gotten progressively muddier on each day of my stay!)
Michelle’s beehives at the end of the garden looked pretty in the soft light.
And I felt grateful to experience yet another beautiful sunset after a full and happy day.
The next day, Michelle had a second hike planned, this time to the Greer Creek Falls Recreation Area. Rain was forecast for midday but that didn’t put us off. I followed Michelle’s truck again along gravel roads and we had fun communicating back and forth with a set of walkie-talkies, “ten-four good buddy.”
The rain started to fall just as we arrived at the trailhead, but luckily it was not very heavy and so we set off happily down the trail.
After about 30 minutes of easy walking through a pretty forest and then along Greer Creek we arrived at the impressive and roaring falls.
A little downstream of the pool, we crossed a foot bridge built over Greer Creek to view the falls from the other side.
Here, André explored and leapt around, Kate and I worked at identifying various late-summer berries with the help of a reference book that she had brought, and Michelle gave Penelope an impromptu photography lesson.
Here are a few more photos from our time at Greer Creek Falls.
We enjoyed our walk back up the trail, Michelle and I talking all the way, and here is my final photo of our outing. Definitely a cool-looking family!
Back at the farm, it was time for more garden work in the afternoon as Michelle was having a Saturday Sale the next day for anyone wanting to drive out to the farm to purchase produce or eggs. I picked bowlfuls of shelling peas in the garden and cherry tomatoes from the greenhouse while André dug potatoes, Olive picked carrots, and Michelle washed and organized the produce in her open garden shed. After a while, I took a short break and fetched my camera. The sky had cleared and I walked to the far end of the garden to take this photo towards the west, the direction of each evening’s sunset.
In the center of the photo are several huge boulders, glacial erratics, accented by two tall leaning birch trees. This special place on the farm is called “The Rocks” and Michelle told me that the uniqueness of this feature helped her and Justus decide to buy this farm.
And here are my last photos from my last afternoon at the farm. A big thank you and hugs and kisses to Michelle, Justus, Louis, Kate, Penelope, Olive and André for being such welcoming hosts and for taking the time to show me around Vanderhoof and the beautiful Nechacko Valley. I’ll be back!
Note: I am very sad to not have one picture to share of either Justus, who was working each day, or Louis who was at a day program in Vanderhoof each day. Apologies! To learn more about Bioscape Farm (and to catch a photo or two of Justus and Louis), you can view Michelle’s excellent photos on instagram @bioscapefarm. You can also visit the bioscapefarm.ca website and visit its page on Facebook.
As always, thank you very much to everyone for reading and joining me on my travels.
I left Williams Lake early and headed north on Highway 97 to Prince George, then west on Highway 16 to the small town of Vanderhoof. My sister Michelle lives about 20 minutes out of town with her husband Justus, five children, Louis, Kate, Penelope, Olive and André, and many animals on her 309-acre, off-grid, solar-powered farm.
As soon as I arrived at the farm I was greeted by my wonderful nieces and nephews. André proudly showed me the house he built for himself, a short distance from the main house and close to the pond.
Then my three beautiful nieces, Olive, Kate and Penelope, took me on a tour of the farm. First, the pond which becomes a well-used skating rink during the very long and cold winters here.
Then, the new “shed”, a tall 3-story and 16-sided tower Justus is building to provide extra space and storage for this growing family.
Afterwards, we walked up to the barn area to see the chickens, turkeys, geese and pigs.
Here is a side view of the 16-sided main house, the outhouse (they now have an inside bathroom as well), and the woodpile as we returned from the barn.
And here is a picture of the front of the house. I wish I had a photo from further down the drive that also shows the expansive lawned area and pretty flower and herb gardens, including Justus’ dedicated lily and peony gardens.
I had a tour of the impressive new root cellar, then the girls and I stopped to admire the many coloured blooms in the lily garden.
Next, we walked down the drive to Michelle’s vegetable garden. It is huge, about 85 x 200 feet (!), and requires a lot of work by the whole family to keep it tended.
And here is Michelle at the door of her greenhouse which was full to bursting with ripe tomatoes, cucumbers, and even cantelope and a few small and very delicious watermelons. The greenhouse is Michelle’s quiet place where she can putter and catch a few moments of respite from her very busy life of work, family, farm, and volunteerism and friendships in the community.
After a wonderful family dinner (all meals are cooked on a woodstove for the family of 7 (!), or on the large barbeque outside), Michelle and I headed down to the lower fields to pen the sheep for the night.
Then Michelle, Justus and the kids all relaxed together with a movie before bed and I retired to my Highlander, very happy with my first day on Michelle’s farm with family.
The next day Michelle, Penelope, and I went on a walk around Vanderhoof and on trails in the surrounding forest. We began our walk at the excellent Riverside Park beside the Nechako River and Michelle proudly showed me the interpretive boards that she created for the municipality through her graphic design business.
We strolled the path that led downstream along the banks of the Nechako and around to the White Sturgeon Conservation Center. Michelle created this board as well, and has also helped with white sturgeon conservation efforts by developing extensive curriculum materials for the local schools. She has provided in-service to teachers who use the curriculum, has visited classrooms as a guest educator, and has led riverside field trips for all ages. The last time I visited Michelle I was able to see hundreds of baby sturgeon, only about 10 cm long, in their rearing tanks at the hatchery.
Next, Michelle, Penelope and I visited the Vanderhoof Community Garden which Michelle helped to establish. She created the information board here as well, and also an on-site resource book of gardening tips and tricks that was part of an inter-generational community project called “Growing Together.”
After our garden visit, we walked to a trailhead at the edge of town and into a forest of aspen, birch, spruce and pine. Many kilometers of trails have been created around Vanderhoof for use by walkers, cyclists, mountain bikers, and cross-country skiers in the winter. We were on the Heritage Nature Trail, and again Michelle had made the interpretive boards along the route that provided information about the local plants, animals, and human history of the area.
The trail circled around back into town and we then visited the local Vanderhoof Museum and Visitor Center which features a variety of beautifully restored historic buildings from the early 1900s and a brightly painted CN Rail caboose. The CN railway thunders regularly right through the center of town on its route between Prince George and Prince Rupert and it is a vital link for transport of the region’s forestry products. The O.K. Cafe was unfortunately closed due to Covid, but hopefully this summer it can reopen to visitors and locals alike. Apparently they make great lunches and pies!
We ended our walk soon after reaching this pretty spot where Stoney Creek meets the Nechako River, providing excellent habitat for a rich diversity of aquatic species, migrating birds, and other wildlife.
What a lovely afternoon we had! When we returned to the farm, it was “all hands on deck” in the garden to start picking vegetables to sell at the Vanderhoof Farmers Market on the morrow. But first, the geese had somehow escaped from the fenced barnyard and were happily enjoying the front deck of the house. Olive started to herd them back to the barnyard, but they decided they would rather go to the pond!
The next morning, Kate was up well before 6 a.m. to do her farm chores and to start baking her delicious muffins and cookies which she regularly makes to sell at the Farmers Market. She bakes them in the wood stove’s oven one batch after another!
The farmers market was so fun! “Bright, sunny, festive and colourful” describe the day and event. Michelle seems to knows almost everyone in town and was constantly socializing and connecting with people about various projects, while quieter Kate served customers and answered questions.
I helped and chatted a bit, most mostly I sat back and relaxed and ate some yummy treats. I also enjoyed making a few purchases and taking photos at this wonderful Farmers Market.
Here are two of my favourite photos from the day, a smiling Michelle and a bouquet of flowers that I bought from 7 year old Elizabeth. A market regular at her Mom’s stall, it was the first time Elizabeth had created something of her own to sell at the market. She was very proud, and the bouquet was lovely!
In the evening, after another enjoyable and lively family dinner, I decided to take myself out for a drive before bed. Before I left, I said hello to my good friend Yodel who was resting here beside the herb garden. He is a very muddy but fine and loyal fellow and I enjoyed his company during my days on the farm and felt safe with him patrolling about during my nights sleeping in the Highlander.
I enjoyed the drive along the quiet country roads and I stopped to take in this view of the Nechako from the north shore of the river just past the bridge into Vanderhoof.
And then this photo of the river a little later in the evening on my return trip to the farm.
Here is the approach up the road to the farm at dusk, with Michelle’s lower fields stretching off to the left.
And here is a sunset view taken from the end of Michelle’s garden.
In July, as well as spending time at home in Vancouver, I slept many nights in my Highlander. First, on a trip to Salt Spring Island where I finally camped “stealth” in Ganges on a side street in town. I had a favourite peaceful and beautiful spot on the island where I spent time each day, between hikes and swims, prepping a meal, reading, writing, and just relaxing. I got wifi while sitting just beyond a restaurant patio in town, and used the wonderful civic pool to shower and get filtered drinking water. It was so fun! From there, I visited a friend in Victoria and slept in the parking lot of her apartment building, an old mansion in the beautiful Rockland area, with tall oaks and pretty gardens all around. We strolled to the Cook Street village, ate our meals on her sunny deck, and went for a walk in Beacon Hill Park. After Victoria, I headed up island to visit family and stopped mid-way for two nights of camping at Cowichan River Provincial Park. As always, it was exciting to visit a new place. The campground was very family oriented and there were excellent riverside hikes that take you to lovely deep green pools, great for swimming. Finally, I spent several nights visiting family in the Comox Valley. We had to stay socially distanced of course (I slept in my Highlander again, parked in my mom’s driveway), but it was still so great to spend time with family and friends.
August 2020
By August, I was ready to resume my travels along B.C.’s country roads and so I decided to head north to visit my sister Michelle and her family in Vanderhoof. For the first leg of this trip, I used the chapter entitled “River Trail to Gold” from Liz Bryan’s “Exploring the Interior – Country Roads of British Columbia.” My route would take me north via Lillooet, with an overnight stop at Kelly Lake, and then up Dog Creek Road which parallels the mighty Fraser for much of the way to Williams Lake. What a road! Scenic, lonely, historic – this road was possibly the highlight of my summer (in a summer full of highlights), and it was definitely the highlight for a very special wildlife sighting (even after having seen a wolf and seven bears in one day!). Here we go!
The drive from Vancouver to Whistler, through Pemberton, and on to Lillooet was a pleasure, early in the day with little traffic. I made a stop mid-way along Duffey Lake to stretch my legs and admire this beautiful scene of forested mountain slopes mirrored in the lake, with a foreground fringed with bright pink fireweed.
I stopped at another pullout farther down the lake and from there I had a great view, zoomed in, of Joffre Peak and Mt. Matier towards the west.
Where Duffey Lake narrowed at its eastern end, the water and plants vied with each other to exhibit the prettiest shades of green, and there was a large collection of logs that was fun to walk on.
So pretty!
A while later, as I descended into Lillooet, I was struck by how rapidly the landscape changed from thickly forested and dark green slopes to the stark, gray, and precipitous mountains of exposed rock and steep sandy benches that surround the narrow river valley and town. A roadside sign proclaimed that Lillooet was “Guaranteed Rugged” and it was easy to agree wholeheartedly!
I made a quick stop to visit the wooden suspension bridge, built in 1913 to replace an earlier truss bridge constructed in 1889. Prior to the truss bridge, a reaction-cable ferry operated between 1860 to 1888 and was used by gold seekers who had travelled to Lillooet from the coast, up the “River Trail” on their way to the gold fields of the Cariboo. Today, it is a scenic pedestrian bridge which offers thrilling views of the churning, silt-laden waters of the Fraser River.
I had read about an osprey nest built on the top beam of this bridge and when I arrived an osprey was there! She exited her nest as I approached and hovered for a few glorious moments above the river next to the bridge, held aloft by the warm and steady wind that funnels up the valley. Beautiful! I started to change to my zoom lens but then she flew swiftly way. Disappointed to not get a shot, I was nevertheless very happy to have had the experience of seeing her, and I can see her still in my memory’s eye.From the pedestrian bridge, I looked upstream towards the railway bridge.And here is a view downstream towards the town of Lillooet. Indigenous peoples have fished for and dried salmon here on the banks of the river for millennia.
After my walk over the pedestrian bridge, I drove back through town to join Highway 99 and cross over the Fraser again to continue north. I made a quick roadside stop a short while later to take in this view of the Fraser and the steep and precarious canyon. From near here, the gold-rush River Trail veered northeast and away from the perils and challenges of the river.
I drove north to Pavilion (known as 22 Mile House during the gold rush, with Lillooet being Mile 0), expecting to take the steep and rough road up and over the shoulder of 2000 meter Pavilion Mountain which was the grueling route taken by the gold seekers. The Ts’kw’aylaxe band, however, at Pavilion had a “no visitors” sign restricting access through their village because of Covid-19. So I had to take a long detour by staying on Highway 99 east through Marble Canyon to Highway 97, then north to Clinton, then back west again on the Pavilion-Clinton road to Kelly Lake. I was actually somewhat relieved to not travel over Pavilion Mountain as I had already travelled that road once before with Brent and the kids on a previous camping trip and it was a rather freaky road! Steep and narrow, it switchbacks swiftly up the mountain and is even more daunting on the descent, dropping some 700 m in under 6 km. During the days of the gold rush, the miners would drag heavy logs behind their loaded wagons to help slow their descent!
After my detour, I arrived at Downing Provincial Park with its campground beside pretty Kelly Lake and had no trouble to get a great site with a view of the lake. I felt a little bit sad to not be here with Brent, Sophie and Daniel as we had once had a wonderful time camping here when the kids were young, despite two days of intermittent heavy rain! In our family, this is known as the camping place with the big brown muddy dog.
After a relaxed dinner, I ended my evening with a quiet walk along the lakefront until a soft rain began to fall and I retired to my Highlander to read before bed.
The next morning, I made a quick stop just beyond the campground to photograph the attractive buildings of the historic Kelly Lake Ranch. During the gold rush, this was the site of 38 Mile House which was advertised in Victoria’s Colonist newspaper in March of 1863 as being a “Good Stopping House”.
At the junction beside the ranch, I turned north onto the gravel road headed towards Jesmond and travelled up the narrow forested valley of Porcupine Creek, past several small lakes and historic buildings, with the white limestone peaks of the Marble Range on my right to the east and the Edge Hills to the west.
Later, on this section of the route, the road travelled for some time alongside and under an impressive array of towers and high voltage power lines stretching north to south.
After passing through tiny Jesmond, another stopping point on the River Trail, I arrived at this signpost and for the first of many times on this day I regretted having booked a night of accommodation in Williams Lake. I have always wanted to visit the Big Bar reaction ferry which crosses the churning Fraser to the west, and to camp at Big Bar Lake a little to the northeast of here. A lesson learned – it is better to stay open to possibilities! On the other hand, now I have a good excuse to return on another day.
With a regretful sigh of roads not travelled, yet with appreciation for the road I was on, I continued north on Dog Creek Road and stopped a short while later to photograph these lovely horses grazing in front of a hay storage shed belonging to the historic buildings of the OK Ranch, established in 1859 by Joseph Haller and one of B.C.’s earliest ranches. It also operated as another “stopping house” during the years of the gold rush.
Beyond the OK Ranch, the road travelled along a pretty section of hay meadows and wetland, and I came upon yet more fine-looking horses, including a beautiful and curious colt.
Dog Creek Road then narrowed dramatically through a limestone canyon,
and later emerged to this gorgeous view of freshly mown hay fields and a string of houses on the approach to the indigenous village of Canoe Creek (Sexqeltquin).
Beyond Canoe Creek, the road rose to this completely natural feature of the landscape, a glacial esker that looks like a man-made earthen dam built between two hillsides.
Then, from the top of the hill beyond the esker, the view opened up to a sweeping expanse of sagebrush, with the eroded hills of the Fraser River trench calling from the distance.
The road swept gently back and forth down the curved green slope to land on a bench, high above the river and parallel to it. The river remained out of sight deep in its trench to my left but the road ahead was so achingly beautiful my heart soared.
The air was warm, the sky was bright, the landscape was thrilling, and it was so wonderfully quiet and lonely. I kept stopping to take photos, and at one point started to walk towards the trench, hopeful for a view down to the river.
But it was farther than it looked and, mindful of the possibility of rattlesnakes, I decided to be patient and walked back to my car to carry on up the road.
After several more kilometers of gorgeous driving, there it was! A glimpse of the Fraser from Dog Creek Road.
This stop featured the pleasing geometric lines of an old corral, and the many-faceted, sculpted shapes of the deeply eroded hills on the far side of the river.
The river came into and out of view as I travelled northward, and then I caught a glimpse of the one lane suspension bridge that crosses the Fraser near Churn Creek. It is possible to cross here and travel via the road to Gang Ranch and onwards to the Chilcotin Plateau!
From the top of the road that descends to the bridge I could see the fan-shaped gravel deposits of Churn Creek where it enters the Fraser. To the right is a large sand bar that is popular as a pull out spot for river rafting companies. I braved the steep and somewhat scary road down to the bridge. The sandy slopes seem so impermanent and you have the sense that a rock fall or slide could occur at any time and sweep you into the river.
I parked and walked on foot over bridge. The river almost hums with energy.
Then I drove over the bridge and turned south onto the Empire Valley Road towards the Churn Creek Protected Area.
The bridge over Churn Creek, with spectacular sculpted hoodoos.A view of Churn Creek as it heads towards the Fraser. The Empire Valley Road curves enticingly southwards.From the Churn Creek bridge, a view downstream towards the Fraser.From Churn Creek bridge, a view upstream.I walked a little ways up this road which followed Churn Creek upstream.Adjacent to Churn Creek, this “wall” provides a good view of the layers of glacial lake deposits, laid down some 80,000 and 15,000 years ago, that make up much of this landscape.
A short distance past the bridge over Churn Creek there is an interpretive kiosk and a 450 meter circular trail with additional interpretive boards that highlight some of geology, plants, and wildlife of the area as well as the ancient and more recent history of this place. Secwepem’c (Shuswap) peoples have used the resources here for over 10,000 years, most notably salmon which they would net and dry for winter use. The area is still used by the Secwepem’c for that purpose today. They also harvested saskatoon berries which they would dry or turn into jam, and prickly pear which was an important food source steam-cooked in pits or roasted over hot coals. Big sagebrush was collected and used for ceremonial and medicinal purposes and the bark was woven into mats and clothing. In the 19th century, land use in this area by Europeans began to include cattle grazing, road construction, and placer mining.
A view of the outlet of Churn Creek from the interpretive trail. Simon Fraser camped here on June 5, 1808 on his journey down the Fraser, and again on July 23 on his return trip north.And here is the view looking back towards the interpretive Kiosk across an expanse of big sage and native shrubs and grasses with wonderful names like bluebunch wheatgrass, sand drop seed grass, and needle and thread grass.
After my walk around the interpretive trail, I decided to drive further south on the Empire Valley Road.
After just a kilometer or two though, the road really started to climb and I realized that my energy was starting to wane so I stopped at this wonderful lookout point to consider my options. I was eager to drive further into the protected area to check out some rustic campsites, still about 8 km away. (Again, I regretted having booked a stay in Williams Lake.) But, the afternoon was advancing and I decided that perhaps I had already had enough excitement for one day! I stayed here for a few quiet moments enjoying the view to the northeast,
and to the south,
and nearby.
Then, I headed back the way I had come, stopping once more when I got to the top of the hill just north of Churn Creek.
From there, the green glimpse of cottonwoods and willows below enticed me to brave the steep hill down to the river.
On the flat, I walked along the sandy road, lined with vibrant green grass, cottonwoods and willow,
and then I exited onto and along the high sand bar to the edge of the wide gravel fan deposited by Churn Creek as it enters the Fraser.
Again, the energy in the air and water at this place was humming. Any geomorphologist would be in heaven here with erosion and deposition evident everywhere and constantly in process all around. The rocks were a mixed jumble and tumble of shapes and sizes and included some very interesting concretions, vividly coloured.
I wanted to stay there at Churn Creek for the rest of the day and into the evening to watch the light change and shift and play over the river, creek, hills and stones. I wanted to camp in the sand by the willows and watch wildlife emerge with the dusk. I wanted to spend more time in this thrilling yet peaceful landscape, beside the powerful surge of the river and with the whispers of ghosts in the dry warm air. Alas, it was time to say goodbye and move on.
I made a quick stop for another photo of the bridge, this time from the west side of the river,
before crossing and continuing north on Dog Creek Road, with several stops again to look back…
and forwards, again and again.
Some distance later, Dog Creek Road veered away from the river trench, up onto the forested plateau, then down again steeply into the Dog Creek Valley where the indigenous village Xgat’lem is located. Shortly after passing the village, the road curved up and around a small hill and as I rounded the curve, in the middle of the road, I saw a mother bobcat and her two pudgy toddler-aged kittens! I stopped abruptly and we all stared at each other in surprise for a few moments before mum and one kitten went over the concrete barrier and out of sight downhill but the other kitten headed uphill on the opposite side. I inched my car forward and stopped to see the plump-rumped kitten hurriedly scrambling upwards. I wanted to watch longer, but I was worried that if I stayed the kitten would continue running away and might have trouble finding mum later so I slowly drove off. A bobcat and her kittens! I never thought that I would ever see a bobcat in the wild and there she was, in full view with her family. Truly an unexpected and special sighting. Lucky me!
Dog Creek Road veered towards the river again and the vistas continued to inspire me.
Then, the road again left the river trench behind and climbed up onto a wide flat prairie! What a surprise!
It was so beautiful and unexpected I thought I would explode with happiness!
Then, once more the road headed back down and towards the river,
before finally leaving the river behind and heading east into the valley of Alkali Creek, passing Alkali Lake and the well-kept modern and historic buildings of the Alkali Lake Ranch, established in 1861 and yet another gold-rush River Trail roadhouse site.
Just past the ranch, the road passed the indigenous village of Esk’et and finally transitioned from gravel to pavement as it headed towards Williams Lake, still about 50 km away. Scattered homes homes started to appear and the countryside was lovely but I was already missing the solitude and splendor of the Fraser River trench and its sage-strewn bench lands. This day was definitely a highlight of my summer, and the route is most definitely worth a return visit. Thank you so much for joining me on this journey!
After my time at the Haynes Lease Ecological Reserve, I drove a short ways south on Black Sage Road, stopping to take in the views of oxbow lakes in the river valley below, and rows of grape vines curving gracefully over the hillside to the east.
Then I returned to Highway 97 and turned south towards Osoyoos in order to connect with Highway 3 west. My intention was to visit the South Okanagan Grasslands Protected Area but I missed the turnoff to Kruger Mountain Road and decided instead to take the road up to Mt. Kobau which was also on my list of places to visit. Mount Kobau Road leaves Highway 3 shortly after reaching the top of the steep hill out of Osoyoos.
Looking back to where Mount Kobau Road connects with Highway 3.
Recommended for 4×4 vehicles, the road was loaded with potholes but otherwise very good. It switch-backed over and over, up the southeastern slope of the mountain, with excellent views down into the South Okanagan Valley.
Some areas of Mount Kobau have suffered through forest fires in recent years,
including this section of forest which was ghostly grey.
I climbed up, higher and higher, stopping often to capture the views.
And then, as the road narrowed and steepened with perhaps only another kilometer or two left to arrive at the top, I just stopped.
At the end of the road there is a trail to a lookout at the top of the mountain, the site of an old fire watch tower, and another trail that leads to a small lake. It had been my intention to walk those trails but I was beginning to feel a little tired and a little fearful way up here alone. My rule is to “follow my gut” and err on the side of caution so I found a good turn-around spot and then started back down the mountain. Darn! The whole way down I was tempted to turn around again and go back up. Now, at some point in the future, I have to drive all the way up there again to do those trails!
Continuing west, I stopped in Keremeos, had a snack and a brief rest in a lovely riverfront municipal park, and then spent a bit of time walking alongside the Similkameen River.
Next, I carried on to Manning Park, hoping to get a campsite at the Lightning Lakes campground. There was much confusion at the check-in hut as their computer system was down but they gave me a large double site, available to just one party because of Covid. What a lot of room for little ‘ol me, but in the end it wasn’t to be!
The hike around the Lightning Lakes has always been one of my favourites – it is so incredibly beautiful.
Tired, relaxed, and happy from my hike around the first lake, I walked back to my campsite only to find that a rather large family had set up their encampment of several tents and vehicles beside me! They had previously reserved the site, despite what I had been told at the registration hut, and so of course I left them to it. There were no more sites available by this time late in the day (grrrr), so I carried on west the short distance to Manning Park’s Coldstream campground. Here, a few sites were available, but all of them were close to the highway so I decided to just drive all the way home that evening. I took time in one of the empty sites to make a quick meal and brew up a large coffee for the drive ahead. What a long day heading home on Highway 3, but it was a very good day as well, travelling and walking through beautiful countryside in beautiful British Columbia.
After my wonderful hike around Kentucky Lake, I left Kentucky-Alleyne Provincial Park to connect with Highway 97C, heading east towards the Okanagan. I had to transition to faster speeds, but luckily the traffic was light and the road is fun to drive. I turned south onto Highway 97 at Peachland, excited to travel a section of road (from here to Oliver) that I had never visited before. I had been in phone communication with my brother Daniel who was spending several days in the Okanagan with his wife Michelle and their two youngest, Simon and Madison, and we had agreed to meet up. They were travelling and staying in their groovy old Okanagan motorhome (nicknamed “Okie”) and had been finding places to cycle and swim and enjoy the sun. We met up at Skaha Lake Park and enjoyed a very nice visit and lunch together.
After our visit, I continued south down 97 to Okanagan Falls Provincial Park which was fully booked but luckily I got a site because of a last-minute cancellation. With its closely-spaced sites and many noisy families surrounding me, I wasn’t thrilled with the campground, but later in the evening I would witness a natural wonder that would make me very thankful to have stayed here (more on that later!).
After securing my site, I drove back up Highway 97 to connect with Highway 3A west, and then turned left onto Twin Lakes Road and then left again onto White Lake Road. Inspired by Liz Bryan’s chapter entitled “Sage Brush Solitudes”, I was headed to White Lake, intending to do a 10 km hike from there to Mahoney Lake. Bryan writes, “It is extraordinary that the huge area of grassland/sagebrush in which White Lake sits like milk in a teacup is still intact, a wonderful undulating sweep of country devoid of development except for the observatory on its northeastern edge.”
One of my first views of White Lake and the surrounding countryside from a distance. The road will curve around the lake to a small parking area on its far side.A distant view of the Dominion Radio Astrophysical Observatory, the largest in Canada, from White Lake Road. Built in 1960 to map the sources of our galaxy using radio waves, the observatory needed a large expanse of “radio quiet” which led to the protection of this beautiful area from development.
After parking beside several other cars, I wasn’t quite sure which of the trailheads I could see was the correct one for the hike to Mahoney Lake. Also, I wasn’t feeling either very brave or energetic this afternoon so I decided to just wander down to the lake along this old road.
Access to the shore or further along the lake was blocked by a fence so I meandered slowly back up the track, enjoying the contrasts of colour and form between dark purple alfalfa and these lovely stems of sage-coloured plants.
Not yet ready to leave this quiet place, I found another track that led uphill towards a rocky outcropping.
These yellow cinquefoils, carpeting the hillside in and amongst the sage, captured my attention for a few lovely moments.
The track let up to a small wetland, dark green with rushes and enlivened by the sharp calls of red-winged blackbirds.
The track became a path that lead through a pretty swath of golden grain towards another small dark-green patch of wetland rushes.
And there was yet another patch of wetland area ahead of me a little further on and higher up.
From here, I appreciated the view looking back towards the west, with White Lake hidden from sight in the bowl below.
I made my way slowly back downhill, reluctant to leave this beautiful and peaceful landscape.
Back at my car, I continued down White Lake Road, looping my way back towards my campsite via Fairview White Lake Road and then Green Lake Road. I passed pretty Mahoney Lake (one day I’ll do that hike!)….
and then further down the road I passed the aptly name Green Lake.
Soon I was back at my campground and did not relish spending the evening there with people all around. I made and ate a quick dinner, called my brother, and arranged to meet him, Michelle, and the kids at Vaseaux Lake to walk the interpretive boardwalk there. The boardwalk was short, and access to the lake limited, but it was nice to be there with family in the quiet of early evening.
Back at my campsite, I decided to stretch my legs before bed with a short walk south on the path that paralleled the Okanagan River on one side and woodland on the other. Dusk was falling, and millions of tiny moths were emerging over, above, and beside the river. Excited at the prospect of seeing bats, I was amazed when I began to see tens and then perhaps even hundreds of flying forms swooping so fast above the river, zipping and changing directions with incredible agility, precision, and speed. A few bats were in the mix, but most of the dark shapes were clearly of birds, mid-sized and with sharply pointed wings. I was standing near a few groupings of other campers and walkers who were also watching, mesmerized by the spectacle. “What are they?” I asked one couple, and was told they are nighthawks. Members of the nightjar family, and not hawks at all, they are shy, well-camouflaged nocturnal birds that are rarely seen during the day. Their acrobatic display, in such numbers, over the Okanagan River in the darkening dusk is a very special sight that will remain with me for a long time.
The next morning, I packed up early and headed south down 97 to connect with Road 22, south of Oliver and just north of Osoyoos Lake. Road 22 crosses the Okanagan River over a fine old wooden bridge and from here you have a choice of four directions to walk or cycle on the riverside dykes: east or west of the river, and either upstream or downstream.
A view from the bridge looking downstream, south towards Osoyoos.A view from the bridge looking upstream, north towards Oliver.
I chose the upstream path, east of the river, and plan to return to walk each of the other choices on future trips.
While participating in the Global Big Day bird count in early May, I had learned from the stats on ebird.org that Road 22 is a top hotspot for birding in the province which is not surprising given the variety of ecosystems in this area. Within view were streamside thickets, ponds, marshes, river, hayfields, large deciduous trees, and dry areas of sage, grasses, and antelope brush.
Armed with my binoculars and camera I headed off on this quiet morning, cool with an overcast sky and light breeze. I saw so many birds, and I’m sure there were many more that I missed! Here is what I recorded in my journal after my walk: 2 ravens, 6 Eastern king birds, 4 quail (one of my favorite reasons to visit the Okanagan – I love them!), 2 grouse (first one, and later another), bank swallows swooping over the river (so fast!), an osprey in her nest, red-winged blackbirds, Brewers blackbirds, song sparrows, multiple American goldfinches (very bright yellow), multiple yellow warblers (so pretty), a mourning dove, and … a lazuli bunting!
Now, my bird photos are not good at all so I will only show two, but please do look up “lazuli bunting” images online to see what a beautiful bird it is!
A pretty yellow warbler.An osprey on her nest, possibly with chicks.
Some sections of the trail were bordered by huge pillowy mounds of baby’s breath, an invasive plant with the ability to spread over 10,000 seeds per plant!
Other plants, including narrowleaf plantain, sheep sorrel and yellow mullein were of interest along the path.
Very happy with my walk along the river, I drove just a short distance further on Road 22 to photograph the atmospheric heritage buildings of the Haynes Ranch. Built in 1882, the tumbledown buildings are comprised of the main ranch house, a smaller bunkhouse (the original homestead), and a large barn.
I crossed the road for closer views of the massive barn, surrounded by a field of yellow, and I took a peek inside the cavernous interior.
After I had circled back around to the south side, I saw a marmot sunning himself on a window ledge.
From the ranch buildings, I drove a short distance north on Black Sage Road, and then turned right onto Meadowlark Lane to visit the Haynes Lease Ecological Reserve. I parked in the small parking area at the end of the lane, with views of the trellised vines of the Burrowing Owl Winery to my left and the entrance to the ecological reserve on my right.
The 101 hectare reserve is bordered to the east and south by reserve lands of the Osoyoos Band and was created on a section of old ranch property to protect habitat for the endangered burrowing owl. I have visited the Haynes Ecological Reserve several times before with my family on short trips to Osoyoos, and we all love it here. A trail meanders through the open area of rabbit brush, bunchgrass, sage, wildflowers, and prickly pear, and there is just something very special about being here.
Dotted here and there with mature Ponderosa pines, the reserve has exciting views of the Okanagan valley below and of rocky cliffs on its eastern edge, with great tumbledown boulders at their base.
We call this big boulder “split rock” and Daniel and Sophie always climb it.
Every single time my family and I have walked here at Haynes Lease, there has not been another soul in sight – just the wonderful views, rocks, plants, birds, and sky. And, on this particular visit, I had the unexpected good fortune to see several beautiful mariposa lilies blooming right beside the trail. What a joy!
Then, to top it all off, near the end of my walk I saw a western bluebird! I had hoped to see one, my first, and there it was perched on a section of fencing wire at the edge of the reserve. (Please google an image! I cannot decide which is prettier, the mountain bluebird or the western bluebird. But, perhaps that is a comparison that should not even be made). Too slow with my camera, I missed the opportunity of a photo, but I was very happy nonetheless. What another wonderful reward for seeking out and visiting some of the Okanagan’s beautiful quiet spaces.
