Glendalough

I had planned for two nights at Glendalough hostel in order to have a rest day after my Wicklow Way walk. But, on that “rest”day, I was still in the mood for walking so I decided on the 9 km, 380 m elevation gain, “Spinc and Glenealo Hike”. I am so glad that I choose this hike – it was spectacular!

The first kilometer to get to the trailhead was lovely and flat along the green road, past the lower lake, and on towards the upper lake. Rain had fallen overnight, and it was overcast and cool. It was also early when I set out, and there was no-one about. A huge contrast to the heat and the busy summer crowds of the previous day!

The route started to climb along a forest road beside the pretty Poulnass waterfall…

and soon zigzagged steeply up the road for a few switchbacks until the trail literally cut through the forest, somewhat spookily, as a series of timber stairs that would eventually number more than 600!

So I started climbing, and was soon wondering if perhaps I should have stayed in bed instead! But, all of that steady stair climbing resulted in the trail emerging from the forest high up on the mountainside, to reveal this view looking back towards the lower lake, and the beginning of the upper lake.

The views stayed marvelously open as the trail continued on boardwalk higher up the cliffs and towards the Glenealo valley and the headwaters of the upper lake.

Closer and closer to the highest point of the hike, “An Spinc”, which literally means “pointed hill”. Up until this point I had not seen one other hiker, but then looking way down below across the lake, I could see several small groups of walkers heading up the valley on the other side.

In the photo below you can clearly see the trail zigzagging down the opposite side of the valley from the pass. The white areas are tailings from lead, zinc and silver mines which operated in this valley for 150 years, beginning in the 1790s.

Looking back from where I’ve come. The upper lake is surprisingly long!

Then the boardwalk started to descend over blanket bog and heath.

The trail description had said that a large herd of deer are often seen here, and sure enough I saw several groupings of deer both above and below me. Most marvelously, I sat and watched a fawn drink milk from its mother! I need to figure out how to magnify the image below! The pair are just inside the upper right quadrant of the photo.

The boardwalk continued downwards…

until it finally ended and I was on a rough track heading towards the bridge over the river, trying to get there ahead of the encroaching mist and clouds.

This is the view from on the bridge, looking down the valley.

And now I’m on the other side, looking back at the bridge. Such an exciting place to be! So far, I’d only passed two other hikers, heading the opposite way, but as I made my descent, more and more hikers came up the valley towards me.

Here’s a good view, on the right, of An Spinc, the highest point reached by the trail.

The descent was very fun as it paralleled the boulder-strewn river.

A hiker travelling in the opposite direction kindly took my picture.

Still a ways to go! On some parts of the descent, there was almost a rough pavement of stones, perhaps made by the miners.

As I reached the large area of tailings, after skirting an enormous boulder field, the trail had finally levelled off, and the 3 or 4 km return alongside the upper lake along the miners road was flat, easy, and picturesque.

What a wonderful hike that was!

After a rest in the hostel, I walked through the monastic settlement once again, so happy that I had come to beautiful Glendalough!

Glendalough is a beautiful place. It is the site of the remains of a monastic settlement founded by St. Kevin in the 6th century. It is located in a beautiful, narrow valley, at the confluence of two rivers, with two lakes just behind the settlement, a small, roughly circular lower lake, and then a longer upper lake just a kilometer or so beyond the lower lake.

As well, Glendalough is part of the Wicklow Mountains National park, and as such there is no development and there are many trails available for walkers and nature enthusiasts. On the afternoon of my arrival, it was the second of two very hot, sunny days and there were many families from the surrounding area and from Dublin out for a summer day of swimming (mostly kids as the water is cold), picnicking, and playing games on the open grassy fields. As well, many of the coach bus tourists who come to see Glendalough have time to stroll from the monastic settlement to first the lower and then the upper lake.

This is part of the lovely boardwalk across the wetlands, looking back towards the tower of St. Kevin’s church at the monastic settlement. The boardwalk parallels one side of the lower lake and thus helps form the pleasant 3 km “green road” loop trail around the lower lake and to the upper lake.

From the boardwalk you can look across to a small swimming beach on the lower lake.

This is the upper lake, looking towards the headwaters. I will hike there tomorrow, over the top of the high cliffs on the left, across the far upper valley, and then returning close to the shoreline through the forest on the right.

This couple is having a romantic moment, watching the ducks on the sparkling lake, as the sun begins to lower in the west.

One of the many grassy fields between the lower and upper lakes, and also there are streams all around…

I visited the monastic settlement in the late afternoon, the early evening, and again early in the morning, so my photos below of the settlement will have different kinds of light. My favourite photo is this one, taken in the early morning. To the right is the 30 m high round tower, built around the 11th century. These tall round bell towers are unique to Ireland. In the foreground is the 12th century St. Kevin’s church with its own round bell tower.

These are the remains of a small, 12th century cathedral.

As well, there are many headstones and celtic crosses that mark grave sites, old and new. Here are some more images from Glendalough.

When I visited in the monastic settlement in the evening and again in the early morning, I was there with only a few others. It was so quiet and peaceful, and I felt very grateful to be in such a special place where, for centuries, others have walked in reverence, service, and contemplation.

Category: Glendalough

An Spinc and Glenealo Hike – Truly Exceptional!