Arizona Road Trip, 2023 – Sun, Rain, and Snow, Heading to the High Country

Lost Dutchman State Park, Tonto Natural Bridge, Strawberry, Camp Verde, Montezuma Castle, Montezuma Well, Cottonwood, Dead Horse Ranch State Park

March 21 – 24, 2023

As I neared Lost Dutchman State Park in the early afternoon, heavy rain started to fall so I decided to treat myself to a meal at a Mexican restaurant in Apache Junction. The restaurant was full and noisy with families and lots of imbibing retirees so I took a table out on the quiet covered patio and enjoyed my meal and margarita as rain pelted down on the courtyard stones and thunder rumbled. The restaurant had wifi so I began a blog post to describe the start of my journey to Arizona, and I finished the post in several sessions at the wonderful Apache Junction public library over the course of the day and on the following day as the rain came and went. (https://christineswalkabout.com/2023/03/22/arizona-road-trip-2023-sitting-out-the-rain-in-apache-junction-and-looking-back-to-the-start/)

By early afternoon on my second day, the rain and clouds began to clear so I took my chance to do one of the many hikes at Lost Dutchman. I decided on the Treasure Loop trail that led towards the base of the Superstition Mountains.

It was a fun trail! The climb was gradual but steady, with great views in all directions, and at a junction I opted to head left towards a small saddle and the “Needles”.

An unnamed trail from here continued past the rock pinnacles and around to cut across the the mountainside, with far-reaching views to the east.

I imagined that the Lost Dutchman himself, as well as many of the treasure hunters who have long searched for his hidden mine and reputed caches of gold, might have walked this exact trail, their pack mules laden with tools and boxes of supplies. Looking out at this view, I thought that perhaps they weren’t here just for the gold.

By the time that I turned and began my return journey on the trail, the sun was finally winning its two-day battle with the clouds, and the sky was happy to show its brightest blue colours. What a wonderful hike and a glorious place! I headed back to camp for dinner but my nearest neighbour was disturbing the peace (again!) by running his generator (they should be banned from all campsites in my opinion), so I drove to one of the park’s picnic areas and found myself a perfect little spot to cook, eat, rest, and continue to admire the stunning views of Lost Dutchman State Park.

Then next morning dawned clear and bright and I began my drive to the high country, heading northeast along the very scenic N. Bush Memorial Highway. I stopped at several of the recreation sites that are located beside the beautiful Salt River, hoping to catch a glimpse of one of the small herds of wild horses that are often seen here. I was not lucky with the horses, but I was thrilled with a later section of the highway, several miles long, that passed low hills completely covered with bright golden poppies.

I next took State Route 87 which headed due north and climbed steadily to the town of Payson, located at an elevation of 5,000 feet. Clouds had been gathering, and as I drove through town a mix of rain and snow began to fall. By the time I reached the access road to the Tonto Natural Bridge State Park, some fourteen miles later, the sky had cleared again to a mix of blue dotted with dramatic thunder clouds, tall and bright white with dark underbellies. I stopped for a moment before beginning to descend the steep and winding 18 percent grade road. Tucked into a deep V-shaped valley, the Tonto Natural Bridge is believed to be the largest natural travertine bridge in the world at 183 feet high, 150 feet wide, and with a tunnel that is over 400 feet long. The bottom left photo below shows the view from standing atop the natural bridge and looking down to Pine Creek that was raging with recent rains. Several of the creek-side trails that I had planned to hike were closed due to flooding, but luckily the Gowan Trail leading down to the metal bridge above the creek was still open for views into the tunnel.

I enjoyed my brief visit, with a chance to stretch my legs and breathe the fresh mountain air in this area of Ponderosa pines, and next I drove to the small town of Strawberry to view the oldest one-room schoolhouse in Arizona, built in 1885. It was very cold and windy when I stepped out to photograph the school and peek into its windows, and by the third click of my shutter light flakes of snow had begun to fall. I continued my trip northwards and encountered more snow as the road rose steadily to a pass at almost 6000 feet.

Thankfully the snow stopped soon after the pass as the road began its long descent to the Verde River Valley and the town of Camp Verde, located at an elevation of 3100 feet. The Verde River, normally a placid, clear ribbon of blue-green, was a wide and rushing tumult of red water, laden with silt and filled with broken branches and uprooted trees. The river had been on a a flood-watch warning for days and had flooded its banks the day before my arrival.

I had planned to camp for two nights at Clear Creek Campground, a first-come first-served forest service site just outside of town. But, like the Verde River, Clear Creek was rushing wide, high, fast, and not at all clear! The road in was thick with slippery red mud, there was only one trailer parked in the campground, and more rain was predicted for the night so it was an easy decision to not stay there. I stopped in to the Visitor Centre in Camp Verde and then the public library to explore other options and was able to book a site at Dead Horse Ranch State park for the following night but not this night so I decided to camp stealth in town in a hotel parking lot. I checked out the three possibilities, made my best choice, shopped for groceries and an easy dinner, and then drove back to the library and its adjacent riverside park where I ate my dinner sitting in the driver’s seat, out of the cold wind. Luckily the library was open until 7 so I charged up my electronics and reading lights, blogged, researched the days ahead, and browsed the Arizona natural history section of the library. When I exited at 7 p.m., the rain had started and was soon pelting down. I read for an hour in the car, and then headed to the hotel parking lot where I discreetly put up my interior window covers, closing myself into my hidden abode. I doubted that anyone would be out checking the parking lot on such a wet, windy and cold night, and I settled happily into my sleeping bag, thankful to be warm, safe and dry.

The next morning dawned wonderfully bright and clear. I rose early, drove to Camp Verde’s riverside park to walk and prepare my breakfast, and then headed to Montezuma Castle National Monument, a cliff-side dwelling built by the Southern Sinagua in the late 12th century and occupied until the mid 1400s. Descendants of the Hohokam who migrated here from southern and central Arizona between 700 and 900 CE, the Sinagua were hunters and farmers who grew corn, beans, squash and cotton using irrigation canals. Their first homes were one-room pit houses built on terraces above their fields, but by 1150 they had begun to build large stone pueblos on hilltops and in cliff alcoves like at Montezuma Castle and Tonto National Monument. The site was strikingly beautiful as were the tall white Arizona sycamores that lined the path below the cliff dwelling.

The riverside trail was closed due to flooding, but the Visitor Centre museum was excellent and I spent almost two hours here learning about the Sinagua culture. One particularly beautiful artefact was an etched shell. Artisans would cover a shell, obtained through trade networks, with lac, a resinous substance derived from insects. They would scratch away some of the lac to create a design, and then soak the shell in an acidic solution made of saguaro fruit juice. The solution would dissolve a layer of the exposed shell to create the etching, and then the rest of the lac would be removed. Ingenious!

From Montezuma Castle I drove about fifteen miles to arrive at the Montezuma Well, a geological wonder and a very sacred and beautiful place. I climbed the path up to a viewing platform and my first sight was of the remains of 12th century dwellings that were built into the cliffs, high above the well, by the Sinagua.

And then I saw the well itself. It is a limestone sink, formed long ago, that is fed by continuously flowing springs. Two vents at the bottom of the well release about 1.6 million gallons of water every day, even during times of drought, and there is an outflow through a tunnel that transports the water through the travertine hillside and down to Beaver Creek and also to an ancient canal that was built by the Sinagua farmers. About ten percent of the well’s water is replaced daily, and the well maintains a constant water level and temperature.

The water contains very high levels of dissolved carbon dioxide as well as some arsenic which makes life impossible for fish, amphibians, and most aquatic insects, but some species are able to survive the conditions including five specially adapted types of creatures that live here and nowhere else on earth – a shrimp-like amphipod, a tiny snail, a leech and water scorpion (the predators), and a type of diatom. A trail descended below the clifftop for closer views of the placid pool and its surrounding plant life,

and another trail led along the cliff top for more views below of the well and its outlet area. It was a very peaceful place and I loved my visit here.

From Montezuma Well, I drove to the Dead Horse Ranch State Park located beside the Verde River on the outskirts of Cottonwood. I was happy with my site which was fairly private and high up on a hill overlooking the valley. I ate a simple lunch and then decided to head into town for a swim at the local community centre indoor pool. It was quiet in the pool at 2 p.m., with the kids still in school, but there was one homeschooler, ten year old Jessie, who was determined to have me be his playmate. We had lots of fun going down the water slide multiple times and playing chase games in the lazy river until two other children arrived and I was free to say goodbye and adjourn to the lap pool to swim with the much-less rambunctious retirees. After my swim, I stopped in at the nearby library to research Sedona-area hikes and I marvelled at the excellent facilities available to residents in this not-very-big town. Here’s a photo of the wonderful library for my teacher- and book-loving friends. 🙂

Relaxed, happy, and hungry after my swim I drove to the historic main street of Cottonwood Old Town. Popular with tourists, this part of town features several small museums and many antique stores, gift shops, wine bars, craft breweries, and restaurants. I enjoyed a fun browse through the cleanest second-hand shop I have ever been in,

and then I decided to treat myself to a veggie burger and fries at Bing’s Burger Bar, a groovy 50’s style diner housed in an old gas station. It was a fun place and a tasty meal at a reasonable price,

and when I got back to camp I was so glad to not have to cook because it was very very c-c-c-cold and windy up on my hill. I took a quick walk around the campground, all bundled up, as the sun set over the snow-covered mountains to the west.

It had been a wonderful day in the high country and I was more than ready for a good night’s sleep. Tomorrow, after many years of wishing, I would finally travel to Sedona to hike its stunning red rock country. Good night sky, good night moon, good night Earth, and blessings upon all.

From London, Fall 2022 – My dirty little secret (and my next destination) revealed

September 26, 2022 (Happy Birthday Sophie!)

Yesterday I said goodbye to the North York coast and travelled by train from Scarborough to York and then on to London, Kings Cross station,

and first thing this morning I visited the Vauxhall region of London near the Pleasure Gardens which are often the setting of much naughtiness in the historical romance novels that I sometimes read. (No, the fact that I like to read romance novels is not my dirty little secret!)

My dirty little secret, which is likely not a secret at all to most if not all of my readers, is that my lovely photos have been filled with spots. I have not wanted to mention it before, in case some of you hadn’t noticed them, but they are awful! Before I left Vancouver I had brought my camera in to have the sensor cleaned, but (long, and frustrating story short) I was left with an unserviced camera.

I tried to fix the problem in Saltburn by using my blower and the Sensor Cleaning mode on my camera but that created more spots! I tried again in Whitby and then there were even more spots! Aaaargh! The usual deep pleasure that I feel while taking photos has been blunted this whole beautiful time (oh, the vistas, the blue skies, the sea!) by those darn spots!

So, my stop this morning in Vauxhall was at an official Sony camera repair shop to have my sensor cleaned before I fly, in two days’ time, to the Amalfi coast of Italy (oh, the vistas, the blue skies, the sea!). I hope you will join me there, and my camera stays spot free!

In the meantime, I have a few sites to see in London and I do not plan to write any posts from here other than this one. Also, due to time constraints, I will sadly just have to wait until I return to Canada to create my posts about the first half of my Cleveland Way walk through the glorious North York moors.

Now, back to the naughtiness. The “Vauxhall Pleasure Gardens” was a popular outdoor evening and nighttime entertainment venue in the 18th and 19th centuries with music, dining, operas, theatricals, balloon rides, fireworks, and other amusements, and it was reputedly often the site of trysts and other goings-on in the more secluded corners of the garden. Today, all that remains is a rather pleasant, family-friendly park surrounded by the busy city, though the silhouettes of a gentleman and a lady atop tall columns at the entrance to the park allude to its earlier life as a centre of amusement and dalliances.

When I first arrived in London yesterday afternoon I felt rather overwhelmed by the sheer numbers of people at Kings Cross and in the metro stations and on the streets and, well, everywhere! I successfully negotiated the metro and found my way to my accommodation, but then I basically hid out for the rest of the day except for taking an evening walk in the relatively peaceful and nearby Hyde Park. Today though, after a good night’s sleep, I decided to embrace the busyness and crowds of the city and really enjoy my few days here. (Granted, though, I did spend most of my afternoon at the British Library which could very well be the quietest “attraction” in London!)

Enough chit chat! Here are just a few pictures from the busy and vibrant streets of London.

Outside Kings Cross Station. Look at all of the cranes!

Looking toward Euston Road from Kings Cross Station. I love this photo!

And in this collage, the grand Saint Pancras Renaissance Hotel London is made even swankier by a hot pink McLaren.

Well, that’s it from London. I’ll see you soon in Naples and on the beautiful Amalfi coast.

Cleveland Way Walk, Fall 2022 – Along the cliff tops from Saltburn to Staithes

September 17, 2022

Hello everyone. I am in my Whitby accommodation and have just enjoyed an afternoon coffee and a toasted scone, slathered in butter and jam, so I think I’ve got the umph (finally) to write this post. The most challenging part is choosing the photos as I take far too many but the views on the Cleveland Way have been so spectacular, both looking forward in the direction of travel and looking back. That is one thing that I love so much about walking in the U.K. – the far-reaching views which I have had on both the moors and the coastal walking.

Saltburn to Staithes, 13.5 km, plus 1 km to access the bus

It was another very blustery day as I set off from Saltburn, with the sea churning and frothing white around the pier.

Heading towards Hunt Cliff, I was made very aware by the sun that this section of coast is aligned more east/west than north/south so my direction of travel was towards the morning sun.

Rising up onto Hunt Cliff, this view is looking back to Saltburn and down onto the remaining houses of Old Saltburn which was a fishing village long before the creation of the Victorian-era resort town, and its Ship Inn was once a centre for smugglers along this coast.

The path beckoned me forward,

and I turned often to look back.

Soon I reached the very top of Hunt Hill where a Roman signal station once stood. I will pass other Roman signal station sites as I continue on the Cleveland Way at Kettleness, Ravenscar, Scarborough Castle, and Filey Brig. Here is the view looking out to sea from the site. “Light the fires, I see a ship!”

Some time later, a long pier came into sight and I began my descent into Skinningrove Harbour.

A fun section through sand dunes took me down to the beach and this view looking back.

The ocean waves were crashing around and against the pier and the walk to its end was exhilarating with the wind and the sea mist and the roar of the surf.

This is the view looking back down to Skinningrove Harbour after I regained the clifftop. The nearby old ironworks once stained the stream that empties into this harbour red, but a sign assured me that after revitalization, salmon and sea trout are now once more returning to spawn in the stream.

It was a perfect day for walking along the cliff tops.

The colours of the land around me were mostly autumnal,

But along my walk I also found spots of colour in little dips of land that were more sheltered from the wind.

And luckily for me there were also areas of brambles with their late-season yet still tasty blackberries, another joy of the day.

As I continued along the cliff tops there was visible evidence that this coast has been extensively quarried for stone as well as mined for jet, potash, alum, and iron ore.

After many happy hours of walking (during which at some point I walked across the highest cliffs in Eastern England at an elevation of 188 m (679 feet)), I could see my destination in the distance, the fishing village of Staithes which is just barely visible as much of the town is tucked into a narrow ravine that descends to the sea. First though was the tiny community of Boulby,

where I was surprised to come upon this large metal sculpture of a miner. The text etched into the table drew my eyes to look behind me and across fields to the large complex of buildings of the Boulby potash mine. The first words read, “Under your feet are 621 miles (1000 km) of mine tunnels, with roadways large enough for trucks, machinery, and the hundreds of miners that work there.” It was an odd feeling to know that trucks and miners were working below me!

I continued along for another mile on a pleasant level path through fields, excited to be nearing Staithes, and here is my first peek as I descended a hill and rounded a corner. What a place!

I walked along the left bank of Staithes Beck toward the harbour.

Here is a view towards the town from near the beginning of the left harbour pier. The Cod and Lobster Inn has more than once had sections of its building washed away into the sea during storms, including in 1953 when the entire kitchen, two bedrooms, and all of the bottles of alcohol on stock were swept away! Apparently, lucky beachcombers were finding washed up bottles for a long time afterwards.

Once boasting a fishery of over eighty boats, the town is now largely a tourist destination with many holiday cottages for rent, as well as the usual attractions of shops, galleries, pubs, fish and chip shops, and ice cream stands, almost all with a nautical name or theme.

It was a wonderful place to end a wonderful day, and I climbed the steep hill out of town towards the bus stop very happily, if also a tiny bit tiredly, and if also a very tiny bit grumpily (again, it was steep!). The bus though easily whisked me back to Saltburn and it was gratifying to see the distance that I had travelled as I rested my feet and looked out the window. I was already starting to look forward to the next day!

Western Road Trip – A magnificent start, heading east on Highway 3

Well, it’s a rare, snowy Vancouver New Year and I am finally buckling down to write some posts about my wonderful summer 2021 road trip through southern B.C., Alberta, and Saskatchewan. I hit the road early on the morning of June 16th, the day after the Covid travel restrictions in B.C. were lifted. After a lovely two-hour visit with my friend Anna in Hope, I was very lucky to have beautiful Highway 3 almost all to myself. Free and easy, here we go!

Driving through Manning Park to Princeton and on to Osoyoos is always a pleasure and for the first time in my Highlander I had some CDs along with me. Paul Simon’s “Graceland” proved to be excellent driving and singing music as I cruised at speed up, down, and around mountains and alongside two of my favourite rivers, the fast-flowing Skagit and the sparkling Similkameen.

In Osoyoos, I stopped for a walk at one of my favourite places – the dikes of the Okanagan River at Road 22. On this visit, I walked northwards on the western dike.

It was late afternoon, and the air was warm and still, so the birds were not very active. Nevertheless, I was greeted almost right away by two well-remembered friends, a cedar waxwing and an eastern king bird.

And of course the tall grasses and colourful wildflowers lining the path were a delight as always.

After my peaceful walk, I drove to Haynes Point Provincial Park – a long and narrow tree-lined spit that reaches east for almost a kilometer across Osoyoos Lake. At the day use area, I had a lovely north-facing view of the lake while I cooked and ate my dinner. Later, I set up my camp chair on the southern beach, midway along the spit, to read and write for a while into the evening. This was my glorious view looking south over Osoyoos Lake.

The campsite at Haynes Point was full (as expected) and I had already resolved to camp “stealth” in town in order to get over my fear of doing so. As darkness started to fall, I headed into town, drove to a hotel that I am familiar with, and then backed into one of the spaces in its crowded parking lot. I set up my privacy window covers and curtain and then organized everything I would need for the night. It was still a little early for sleep so I visited the hotel lobby with my ipad to do email and some googling to review details of the road ahead on the morrow. What a great first day I had!

I slept well and without incident, rose early the next morning, and enjoyed a simple breakfast while sitting on the bench in the photo below, overlooking another glorious view of Osoyoos Lake. Bonus, I saw a beaver swimming close to shore!

What a great day to travel! So, off I drove east on Highway 3 but I didn’t get very far before stopping to photograph the curving sweep of the road heading up Anarchist Mountain, and then from the top a beautiful view looking down onto Osoyoos and the south Okanagan valley.

I made a brief stop in Rock Creek to stretch my legs and I took a few photos of this tiny and charming small town.

From Rock Creek, I greatly enjoyed the beautiful drive through the Kettle Valley. Soon, Highway 3 said goodbye to the Kettle River at the neat and tidy town of Midway and then headed northeast through Boundary country. My next stop was in the historic mining town of Greenwood, the “smallest incorporated city in Canada.” Copper mined in the surrounding hills was smelted at Greenwood in the late 1800’s and early 1900’s but when the ore was exhausted the smelter closed and this once thriving town of 3000 almost became a ghost town. The town has seen a resurgence in recent years, and many of its more than sixty heritage buildings have been beautifully restored. Unfortunately, the town was very quiet and seemed a little depressed when I visited, likely due to the absence of tourist traffic because of Covid.

I started my visit to Greenwood with a walk along a short section of the Kettle Valley Rail Trail that parallels Boundary Creek. It’s difficult to see in the picture below (right), but great dark heaps of slag bordered the creek for some distance.

Next, I walked along the main street (which is Highway 3), lined with beautiful and historic buildings. In the photo below, the Windsor Hotel (center, blue windows) was built in 1896 and houses the longest operating pub in B.C.. To its right, the Pacific Hotel was built and rebuilt twice due to fires, first in 1899 and again in 1907. During the second world war, the hotel became a designated Internment Building and housed over 200 interned Japanese Canadians.

Below are several more scenes from Greenwood’s main street. If I lived here, I would join the Kettle River Art Club and the Women’s Institute, and I might occasionally participate in the Legion’s Saturday Meat Draw!

After touring the few short blocks of the main street, I walked uphill and past the historic fire hall, post office, city hall, and several beautifully restored homes.

One street higher up I reached the Sacred Heart Roman Catholic church, built in 1897 as “a mission by Fr. Palmer”, and right beside the church was an old beauty of a home, empty and not yet restored but in fine shape, with a large grassy yard and backed by a forested hillside. I sat on its front porch steps for awhile, enjoying the peaceful morning and the mesmerizing sound of crickets, and I imagined that it was mine. It would be a fine house to restore to its former glory.

I carried on through Boundary Country and made a short stop in Grand Forks. Before leaving home, I had read that Grand Forks recently had high case counts of Covid so I avoided a stop in the historic downtown but I visited the large riverside park and municipal campground for a pleasant walk in the shade of huge cottonwoods. Also, I had wanted to see why the town was named “Grand Forks” so I found my way to a small, unnamed pocket park where the Granby River (on the left) and the Kettle River (on the right) meet. I stood right on the edge of the sandy point that was being inexorably eroded on both sides. There was such a powerful feeling of movement, energy, impermanence, and change here!

It was time for me to keep on moving as well so I returned to my Highlander but as I was leaving town I just had to stop and take a photo of this very groovy VW van. 🙂

After leaving Grand Forks and later Christina Lake, Highway 3 traversed the forested slopes of the Rossland Range, rising to an elevation of 1535 meters at Bonanza Pass. It was wonderful driving, and I was compelled to stop yet again when I saw this view of Nancy Greene Lake with Old Glory Mountain off in the distance. I wish that I had known of the five kilometer trail that loops around this beautiful lake.

I continued eastwards on Highway 3 which soon made its descent into Castlegar and then rose up again steeply to a viewpoint with views back down to Castlegar and the mighty Columbia River. Later, the road followed the gorgeous, braided, and fast-flowing Salmo River for a while before it climbed up to the Kootenay Pass summit at an elevation of 1774 meters.

My next planned stop was the Creston Valley Wildlife Management Area which is comprised of 17,000 acres of protected wetland habitat for the benefit of resident and migrating water fowl and other wildlife. Here there are many kilometers of trails, bird-viewing towers, and a small but excellent nature center. Brent and I had visited this nature reserve about 30 years ago and had taken a guided canoe ride through narrow water channels lined with reeds and cattails to view the abundant wildlife. It had been a most enjoyable and memorable experience (we had even sighted a muskrat!), and so I was very excited to visit this very special place again.

Bright yellow flag iris were beautiful to see and photograph, but they are an invasive species and work is underway to try and remove them from the reserve.

You can still book a guided canoe ride through the wetland, and when I saw the canoes I dearly wished that my family was here to join me on this warm and beautiful afternoon.

Heading into Creston, I stopped to take this photo of the Kootenay River. The river and the wide valley here are stunning!

In Creston, I parked beside the art deco inspired Tivoli Theatre (1938), treated myself to a late lunch/early dinner in a hipster cafe, and then spent some time relaxing under a shady tree in the town’s Rotary Park while I made a phone call home.

Continuing on my journey, I stopped in at Yahk Provincial Park campground and decided to stay there for the night. Conveniently close to the highway, my site was just a minute’s walk from the pretty sight and lovely sounds of the Moyie River.

I read in camp until dusk, and then returned to the river to watch as bats started their evening flights, swirling and twirling at speed above the tumbling water. What a wonderful way to end a second magnificent day heading east on Highway 3!

Protected: For Pauline, Arlette, and Sanders – Boerlage Lake and Family Portraits

Western Road Trip – I’m doin’ fine!

June 30, 2021

Hello everyone. This is just a very short blog post to let you all know that I am alive and doing well. I am currently in a Regina hotel for a second night, enjoying the AC and clean clothes! The heat wave that hit BC so badly is just starting here and I’ve spent the day googling campsites with shade and a good swimming lake. I think I have a plan now, but if it’s just too hot for camping, I’ll visit Saskatoon and spend another several days in a hotel until the heat settles down.

Prior to arriving in Regina, I camped for 14 consecutive nights in my Highlander! I have been having a great time and have seen absolutely gorgeous scenery, plenty of exciting wildlife (a rattlesnake rattled me!), and many historically significant sights. I can’t wait to blog about the places I have visited and share some photos, but that will likely have to wait until I get home as wifi, and my time, are very limited.

A field of canola, near Avonlea Saskatchewan, looking west toward the Dirt Hills.

I have decided to limit my current travels to the three western provinces after all. The Maritimes are getting ready to open up a little, but I have only had my first Covid vaccination which makes things more complicated – and each of the Atlantic provinces have different restrictions and requirements. Also, I am really enjoying the prairies and I have over a dozen places still that I’d like to visit in Saskatchewan, and plenty in Alberta as well so I expect that I’ll be on the road for at least another two to four weeks. Now, three more quick teaser photos, from west to east for you, and then I’ll say, “Goodnight, thanks for reading!”

Writing on Stone Provincial Park in Southern Alberta. I spent two glorious days here swimming in the Milk River, exploring the hoodoos, and learning about the special significance of this place to the Blackfoot and other indigenous tribes. The Sweet Grass Hills of Montana are in the distance.

An early evening view towards my Highlander parked at the Belza day use area in Grasslands National Park, West Block.

One of many picturesque grain elevators in southern Saskatchewan.

Goodnight, and thanks for reading!

Cross Canada, or Hello Saskatchewan? Either way, I’m happy!

June 13, 2021

So, here I am anxiously awaiting the announcement (hopefully made tomorrow) that the current restrictions in B.C. that ban recreational travel outside of one’s own Health Authority region will be lifted at midnight on Tuesday, June 15th. Then, I will be off like a shot the morning of the 16th, heading east, possibly all the way across Canada!

Once the current restriction is lifted, I will be able to legally travel throughout B.C., Alberta, and Saskatchewan. I have been researching many wonderful places to visit in these three western-most provinces and I am greatly looking forward to exploring new roads that travel through mountains, valleys, foothills, prairies, and badlands. I will see lakes and rivers, wetlands and native prairie grasslands, all homes to a wide variety of plant and animal life. I will visit small towns and important cultural, historical, and archaeological sites. There is more than enough to see and do, and I have recently been surprised to hear myself say to family, “I’m getting excited about Saskatchewan!”

Liz Bryan will be a welcome guide again my travels, with her “Exploring the Routes Less Travelled – Country Roads of Alberta” book, as well as “Stone by Sone – Exploring Ancient Sites on the Canadian Plains”, and “River of Dreams – A Journey Through Milk River Country.” And for Saskatchewan, I have found some wonderful books by Robin and Arlene Karpan and they also have an excellent online travel blog with stunning professional photography.

Once I get to the eastern edge of Saskatchewan, I will see what the updated travel orders are for the other provinces. Ontario will likely open its borders on June 16th, and although Manitoba currently requires a 14 day isolation period, it is legal to drive straight through the province, stopping only for gas and groceries, to arrive in Ontario. Quebec will also likely be open by the end of June. But, if the Atlantic provinces are still closed or require isolation after entry, I will not travel further east than Saskatchewan because I don’t want to drive more than half way across the country and not see the Maritimes! I would rather postpone that adventure and instead continue to explore the diverse landscapes and attractions of the three western provinces until I feel like heading home. Either way, I’ll be happy to be on the road.

Friends and family members sometimes express concern about my travelling alone and I’d like to reassure everyone that I feel very safe and confident in my ability to make good decisions about any “iffy” situations. I drive safely, and only when well-rested. I make good choices about where to spend the night and which hikes to go on. I am bear and cougar aware, and I carry bear spray. Each day, I keep in touch with Brent by text, letting him know which roads I plan to travel, which hikes I set out on and return from, and where I plan to stay overnight. Regarding Covid, I will act as responsibly on the road as I do in Vancouver. I will wear my mask in public buildings, wash and sanitize hands at campsites and when visiting gas stations and grocery stories. I will be mostly by myself, in outdoor spaces, and will not attend events or be in crowds. I am quite happy being on my own and do not tend to get lonely, though I do miss Brent, Sophie and Daniel when I am in new and beautiful places and I wish they could be there too.

Now, all I have to do is get all of this into my Highlander!

Then, I’ll be ready to head out as soon as that restriction is lifted! I am not sure how often I will be able blog due to wifi access and an unreliable ipad, but I hope that you will be able to follow along on my travels and perhaps get some inspiration for Canadian travels of your own. Best wishes to everyone for a lovely summer ahead!

B.C. Country Roads – No 9 Following the Gold Rush River Trail – Lillooet, Churn Creek, and the Dog Creek Road

July 2020

In July, as well as spending time at home in Vancouver, I slept many nights in my Highlander. First, on a trip to Salt Spring Island where I finally camped “stealth” in Ganges on a side street in town. I had a favourite peaceful and beautiful spot on the island where I spent time each day, between hikes and swims, prepping a meal, reading, writing, and just relaxing. I got wifi while sitting just beyond a restaurant patio in town, and used the wonderful civic pool to shower and get filtered drinking water. It was so fun! From there, I visited a friend in Victoria and slept in the parking lot of her apartment building, an old mansion in the beautiful Rockland area, with tall oaks and pretty gardens all around. We strolled to the Cook Street village, ate our meals on her sunny deck, and went for a walk in Beacon Hill Park. After Victoria, I headed up island to visit family and stopped mid-way for two nights of camping at Cowichan River Provincial Park. As always, it was exciting to visit a new place. The campground was very family oriented and there were excellent riverside hikes that take you to lovely deep green pools, great for swimming. Finally, I spent several nights visiting family in the Comox Valley. We had to stay socially distanced of course (I slept in my Highlander again, parked in my mom’s driveway), but it was still so great to spend time with family and friends.

August 2020

By August, I was ready to resume my travels along B.C.’s country roads and so I decided to head north to visit my sister Michelle and her family in Vanderhoof. For the first leg of this trip, I used the chapter entitled “River Trail to Gold” from Liz Bryan’s “Exploring the Interior – Country Roads of British Columbia.” My route would take me north via Lillooet, with an overnight stop at Kelly Lake, and then up Dog Creek Road which parallels the mighty Fraser for much of the way to Williams Lake. What a road! Scenic, lonely, historic – this road was possibly the highlight of my summer (in a summer full of highlights), and it was definitely the highlight for a very special wildlife sighting (even after having seen a wolf and seven bears in one day!). Here we go!

The drive from Vancouver to Whistler, through Pemberton, and on to Lillooet was a pleasure, early in the day with little traffic. I made a stop mid-way along Duffey Lake to stretch my legs and admire this beautiful scene of forested mountain slopes mirrored in the lake, with a foreground fringed with bright pink fireweed.

I stopped at another pullout farther down the lake and from there I had a great view, zoomed in, of Joffre Peak and Mt. Matier towards the west.

Where Duffey Lake narrowed at its eastern end, the water and plants vied with each other to exhibit the prettiest shades of green, and there was a large collection of logs that was fun to walk on.

A while later, as I descended into Lillooet, I was struck by how rapidly the landscape changed from thickly forested and dark green slopes to the stark, gray, and precipitous mountains of exposed rock and steep sandy benches that surround the narrow river valley and town. A roadside sign proclaimed that Lillooet was “Guaranteed Rugged” and it was easy to agree wholeheartedly!

I made a quick stop to visit the wooden suspension bridge, built in 1913 to replace an earlier truss bridge constructed in 1889. Prior to the truss bridge, a reaction-cable ferry operated between 1860 to 1888 and was used by gold seekers who had travelled to Lillooet from the coast, up the “River Trail” on their way to the gold fields of the Cariboo. Today, it is a scenic pedestrian bridge which offers thrilling views of the churning, silt-laden waters of the Fraser River.

I had read about an osprey nest built on the top beam of this bridge and when I arrived an osprey was there! She exited her nest as I approached and hovered for a few glorious moments above the river next to the bridge, held aloft by the warm and steady wind that funnels up the valley. Beautiful! I started to change to my zoom lens but then she flew swiftly way. Disappointed to not get a shot, I was nevertheless very happy to have had the experience of seeing her, and I can see her still in my memory’s eye.

From the pedestrian bridge, I looked upstream towards the railway bridge.

And here is a view downstream towards the town of Lillooet. Indigenous peoples have fished for and dried salmon here on the banks of the river for millennia.

After my walk over the pedestrian bridge, I drove back through town to join Highway 99 and cross over the Fraser again to continue north. I made a quick roadside stop a short while later to take in this view of the Fraser and the steep and precarious canyon. From near here, the gold-rush River Trail veered northeast and away from the perils and challenges of the river.

I drove north to Pavilion (known as 22 Mile House during the gold rush, with Lillooet being Mile 0), expecting to take the steep and rough road up and over the shoulder of 2000 meter Pavilion Mountain which was the grueling route taken by the gold seekers. The Ts’kw’aylaxe band, however, at Pavilion had a “no visitors” sign restricting access through their village because of Covid-19. So I had to take a long detour by staying on Highway 99 east through Marble Canyon to Highway 97, then north to Clinton, then back west again on the Pavilion-Clinton road to Kelly Lake. I was actually somewhat relieved to not travel over Pavilion Mountain as I had already travelled that road once before with Brent and the kids on a previous camping trip and it was a rather freaky road! Steep and narrow, it switchbacks swiftly up the mountain and is even more daunting on the descent, dropping some 700 m in under 6 km. During the days of the gold rush, the miners would drag heavy logs behind their loaded wagons to help slow their descent!

After my detour, I arrived at Downing Provincial Park with its campground beside pretty Kelly Lake and had no trouble to get a great site with a view of the lake. I felt a little bit sad to not be here with Brent, Sophie and Daniel as we had once had a wonderful time camping here when the kids were young, despite two days of intermittent heavy rain! In our family, this is known as the camping place with the big brown muddy dog.

After a relaxed dinner, I ended my evening with a quiet walk along the lakefront until a soft rain began to fall and I retired to my Highlander to read before bed.

The next morning, I made a quick stop just beyond the campground to photograph the attractive buildings of the historic Kelly Lake Ranch. During the gold rush, this was the site of 38 Mile House which was advertised in Victoria’s Colonist newspaper in March of 1863 as being a “Good Stopping House”.

At the junction beside the ranch, I turned north onto the gravel road headed towards Jesmond and travelled up the narrow forested valley of Porcupine Creek, past several small lakes and historic buildings, with the white limestone peaks of the Marble Range on my right to the east and the Edge Hills to the west.

Later, on this section of the route, the road travelled for some time alongside and under an impressive array of towers and high voltage power lines stretching north to south.

After passing through tiny Jesmond, another stopping point on the River Trail, I arrived at this signpost and for the first of many times on this day I regretted having booked a night of accommodation in Williams Lake. I have always wanted to visit the Big Bar reaction ferry which crosses the churning Fraser to the west, and to camp at Big Bar Lake a little to the northeast of here. A lesson learned – it is better to stay open to possibilities! On the other hand, now I have a good excuse to return on another day.

With a regretful sigh of roads not travelled, yet with appreciation for the road I was on, I continued north on Dog Creek Road and stopped a short while later to photograph these lovely horses grazing in front of a hay storage shed belonging to the historic buildings of the OK Ranch, established in 1859 by Joseph Haller and one of B.C.’s earliest ranches. It also operated as another “stopping house” during the years of the gold rush.

Beyond the OK Ranch, the road travelled along a pretty section of hay meadows and wetland, and I came upon yet more fine-looking horses, including a beautiful and curious colt.

Dog Creek Road then narrowed dramatically through a limestone canyon,

and later emerged to this gorgeous view of freshly mown hay fields and a string of houses on the approach to the indigenous village of Canoe Creek (Sexqeltquin).

Beyond Canoe Creek, the road rose to this completely natural feature of the landscape, a glacial esker that looks like a man-made earthen dam built between two hillsides.

Then, from the top of the hill beyond the esker, the view opened up to a sweeping expanse of sagebrush, with the eroded hills of the Fraser River trench calling from the distance.

The road swept gently back and forth down the curved green slope to land on a bench, high above the river and parallel to it. The river remained out of sight deep in its trench to my left but the road ahead was so achingly beautiful my heart soared.

The air was warm, the sky was bright, the landscape was thrilling, and it was so wonderfully quiet and lonely. I kept stopping to take photos, and at one point started to walk towards the trench, hopeful for a view down to the river.

But it was farther than it looked and, mindful of the possibility of rattlesnakes, I decided to be patient and walked back to my car to carry on up the road.

After several more kilometers of gorgeous driving, there it was! A glimpse of the Fraser from Dog Creek Road.

This stop featured the pleasing geometric lines of an old corral, and the many-faceted, sculpted shapes of the deeply eroded hills on the far side of the river.

The river came into and out of view as I travelled northward, and then I caught a glimpse of the one lane suspension bridge that crosses the Fraser near Churn Creek. It is possible to cross here and travel via the road to Gang Ranch and onwards to the Chilcotin Plateau!

From the top of the road that descends to the bridge I could see the fan-shaped gravel deposits of Churn Creek where it enters the Fraser. To the right is a large sand bar that is popular as a pull out spot for river rafting companies. I braved the steep and somewhat scary road down to the bridge. The sandy slopes seem so impermanent and you have the sense that a rock fall or slide could occur at any time and sweep you into the river.

I parked and walked on foot over bridge. The river almost hums with energy.

Then I drove over the bridge and turned south onto the Empire Valley Road towards the Churn Creek Protected Area.

The bridge over Churn Creek, with spectacular sculpted hoodoos.

A view of Churn Creek as it heads towards the Fraser. The Empire Valley Road curves enticingly southwards.

From the Churn Creek bridge, a view downstream towards the Fraser.

From Churn Creek bridge, a view upstream.

I walked a little ways up this road which followed Churn Creek upstream.

Adjacent to Churn Creek, this “wall” provides a good view of the layers of glacial lake deposits, laid down some 80,000 and 15,000 years ago, that make up much of this landscape.

A short distance past the bridge over Churn Creek there is an interpretive kiosk and a 450 meter circular trail with additional interpretive boards that highlight some of geology, plants, and wildlife of the area as well as the ancient and more recent history of this place. Secwepem’c (Shuswap) peoples have used the resources here for over 10,000 years, most notably salmon which they would net and dry for winter use. The area is still used by the Secwepem’c for that purpose today. They also harvested saskatoon berries which they would dry or turn into jam, and prickly pear which was an important food source steam-cooked in pits or roasted over hot coals. Big sagebrush was collected and used for ceremonial and medicinal purposes and the bark was woven into mats and clothing. In the 19th century, land use in this area by Europeans began to include cattle grazing, road construction, and placer mining.

A view of the outlet of Churn Creek from the interpretive trail. Simon Fraser camped here on June 5, 1808 on his journey down the Fraser, and again on July 23 on his return trip north.

And here is the view looking back towards the interpretive Kiosk across an expanse of big sage and native shrubs and grasses with wonderful names like bluebunch wheatgrass, sand drop seed grass, and needle and thread grass.

After my walk around the interpretive trail, I decided to drive further south on the Empire Valley Road.

After just a kilometer or two though, the road really started to climb and I realized that my energy was starting to wane so I stopped at this wonderful lookout point to consider my options. I was eager to drive further into the protected area to check out some rustic campsites, still about 8 km away. (Again, I regretted having booked a stay in Williams Lake.) But, the afternoon was advancing and I decided that perhaps I had already had enough excitement for one day! I stayed here for a few quiet moments enjoying the view to the northeast,

and to the south,

and nearby.

Then, I headed back the way I had come, stopping once more when I got to the top of the hill just north of Churn Creek.

From there, the green glimpse of cottonwoods and willows below enticed me to brave the steep hill down to the river.

On the flat, I walked along the sandy road, lined with vibrant green grass, cottonwoods and willow,

and then I exited onto and along the high sand bar to the edge of the wide gravel fan deposited by Churn Creek as it enters the Fraser.

Again, the energy in the air and water at this place was humming. Any geomorphologist would be in heaven here with erosion and deposition evident everywhere and constantly in process all around. The rocks were a mixed jumble and tumble of shapes and sizes and included some very interesting concretions, vividly coloured.

I wanted to stay there at Churn Creek for the rest of the day and into the evening to watch the light change and shift and play over the river, creek, hills and stones. I wanted to camp in the sand by the willows and watch wildlife emerge with the dusk. I wanted to spend more time in this thrilling yet peaceful landscape, beside the powerful surge of the river and with the whispers of ghosts in the dry warm air. Alas, it was time to say goodbye and move on.

I made a quick stop for another photo of the bridge, this time from the west side of the river,

before crossing and continuing north on Dog Creek Road, with several stops again to look back…

and forwards, again and again.

Some distance later, Dog Creek Road veered away from the river trench, up onto the forested plateau, then down again steeply into the Dog Creek Valley where the indigenous village Xgat’lem is located. Shortly after passing the village, the road curved up and around a small hill and as I rounded the curve, in the middle of the road, I saw a mother bobcat and her two pudgy toddler-aged kittens! I stopped abruptly and we all stared at each other in surprise for a few moments before mum and one kitten went over the concrete barrier and out of sight downhill but the other kitten headed uphill on the opposite side. I inched my car forward and stopped to see the plump-rumped kitten hurriedly scrambling upwards. I wanted to watch longer, but I was worried that if I stayed the kitten would continue running away and might have trouble finding mum later so I slowly drove off. A bobcat and her kittens! I never thought that I would ever see a bobcat in the wild and there she was, in full view with her family. Truly an unexpected and special sighting. Lucky me!

Dog Creek Road veered towards the river again and the vistas continued to inspire me.

Then, the road again left the river trench behind and climbed up onto a wide flat prairie! What a surprise!

It was so beautiful and unexpected I thought I would explode with happiness!

Then, once more the road headed back down and towards the river,

before finally leaving the river behind and heading east into the valley of Alkali Creek, passing Alkali Lake and the well-kept modern and historic buildings of the Alkali Lake Ranch, established in 1861 and yet another gold-rush River Trail roadhouse site.

Just past the ranch, the road passed the indigenous village of Esk’et and finally transitioned from gravel to pavement as it headed towards Williams Lake, still about 50 km away. Scattered homes homes started to appear and the countryside was lovely but I was already missing the solitude and splendor of the Fraser River trench and its sage-strewn bench lands. This day was definitely a highlight of my summer, and the route is most definitely worth a return visit. Thank you so much for joining me on this journey!

Back to my blog – Finishing up, and looking forward (cross Canada road trip?)

Hello everyone! Well, about a year and a half has passed since my last blog post! For months after returning from my trip I was exceedingly lazy and quite unfocused and unproductive. I told a friend how I’d been feeling and she kindly replied, “Scattered and lazy sounds just about right for the first year after retirement.” Then, Covid came along and everyone knows what the last year has been like!

Thankfully, a break through my brain fog has occurred and I have finally taken the time to finish several posts that I had started while in Northumberland but never completed because of recurring computer issues. (I was able to insert the new posts into the correct chronology for my trip. The new posts begin with “God and Nature on the Holy Isle of Lindisfarne!” There are a few yet to be published.)

Over the next few weeks I will also begin to publish to several posts about my travels on the wonderful back country roads of B.C. that I took last Spring and Summer in my SUV “camper”. (I had originally created the camper in order to make a big trip to the American Southwest in the Spring of 2020, but of course Covid interfered with those plans!)

Here are photos of my SUV “camper” that my brother Serge helped me to create in my 2007 Toyota Highlander. Some of the photos include my mattress and bedding and a few camp items, and others show the woodwork alone. Thank you Serge for an awesome build!

B43B0821-6C41-47C1-85A3-A285179A98EE — There is storage under the bed platform for my camp stove, camp chair, food tubs, tools and emergency items.

894CF75C-AA7D-46A9-AE8E-831C3E93D3AF — I can cook/prep food on the slide out table. My “kitchen” is the unit beside the bed. The raised hatch keeps me dry if I’m cooking on a rainy day.

F64571E7-736D-4CD6-B0DA-D389841D7D2F — Looking in from the rear passenger door. There’s room for my cooler, a few tubs, and my duffel bag of clothes.

3645850D-9852-41FB-B120-D09DB197EB23 — The drawer opens from both sides!

B21E8156-A0BD-43F7-BA59-BEF7683D2109 — A sturdy step stool provides storage and makes it easy to move from the bed to the driver’s seat. (Must go to yoga!)

81BF7409-DB9E-4687-AB29-8B1FC84A770B — A yoga mat protects my upholstery and provides a nice cushion for my knees.

48B92FDE-0D13-48E1-9B04-780D5341411D — Awesome job Serge! The units are easy to put in and take out, and no alterations to the SUV itself were needed.

1CE0C3EC-6FEC-45D7-BEF9-6F534C30A764 9764A410-70D7-4B1B-A56B-9EDBE9F00663 C162FE10-0391-435B-B5BB-4786B4568978 F8481F7C-B789-4E68-ADAE-D1031561351F

I slept in my camper 28 nights last Summer, mostly in provincial campgrounds, and felt very cozy and safe. Now, my idea is head East in early May with the intention to travel across Canada, hopefully at least as far as Winnipeg, and possibly all the way to Newfoundland, if Covid restrictions do not interfere too much with interprovincial travel. We’ll see how it goes! While travelling, I will be available to friends and family via email and phone/text, and I’ll be checking in daily with Brent so he knows where I am. As always, thank you for reading, and best wishes to all.

Alnwick Castle – a grand finale to my visit to Northumberland

On my last full day in Alnwick I visited Alnwick Castle, excited to see the film site that was “Hogwarts” in the first two Harry Potter movies. Harry, Ron and Hermione learned to ride their brooms on the inner lawn next to the curtain wall and Barbican (below), and today visitors young and old can sign up for a broom riding lesson.

The origins of the castle date from Norman times, and since 1309 the history of the castle has been linked with that of the Percy family. Home to the current Duke of Northumberland, Ralph Percy, and his family, Alwick is the second largest inhabited castle in the U.K. The current Duchess famously revived and expanded the beautiful and much lauded “Alnwick Gardens” which are located near the castle and also open to visitors.

I took two excellent guided tours of the grounds. One focused on the modern film history of the castle as many TV and movie productions as diverse as “Elizabeth” and “Transformers: The Last Knight” have been filmed here. The other tour described important events in the castle’s 950 year history, including its development over the centuries and its strategic importance to the region and to the fortunes of the Percy family.

Here are several photos taken from around the inner grounds of this large and historic castle.

The 14th century Constables Tower and a section of the outer defensive wall.

A view of the 12th century keep. Alnwick is one of the earliest castles in England to be built without a square keep.

An alternate view of the keep, featuring the exterior of the chapel.

Below are two views of the entrance gate that leads into the inner courtyard of the keep, and from there into the keep itself and the State Rooms.

Unfortunately, no photography is allowed inside the stunning State Rooms (images are available online if you are interested). Spacious, elegant, and beautifully decorated in the Italian Rennaisance style, they are filled with treasure after treasure including paintings by the likes of Titian, Canaletto, and Van Dyke. The most valuable treasure is a pair of large Baroque cabinets that were made for Louis XIV’s palace at Versailles. The cabinets are described as “priceless”, and I overheard one guide say, “they are worth more than everything else put together”, and that is saying something! In 2012, the Duke of Northumberland sold several works of art from his vast collection in order to pay for repairs to buildings badly damaged by flood waters. Two items alone netted over 16 million British pounds – a 1st century Roman marble statue of Aphrodite, and a painting, “Garden of Eden” by Jan Brueghel the Elder. That is some garage sale!

After viewing the castle grounds and the impressive State Rooms, I exited and walked a distance away from the castle in order to get this image of just how massive it is.

I walked a little further downhill, away from the castle, and was drawn to the Lion Bridge in the distance.

I crossed over the scenic bridge to the north side of the River Aln, and then walked along the riverside path back towards the caste.

Such a beautiful scene and a peaceful day, nothing like it would have been with an invading army camped on my side of the river!

And here is a picture of me on my last full day in beautiful Northumberland. What a grand finale to an exceptional trip! The next day offered a scenic and restful train ride back up the northeast coast (there’s Lindisfarne!) and then on to Glasgow. I was feeling a little sad to end my voyage, but also very happy with all that I had seen and done, and I was also feeling eager for my planned stopover in Iceland where I would meet up with Sophie, Brent and Daniel for a six day visit. Thank you, very much, to everyone for coming along with me on this journey!