Ireland, 2023 – More happy walking on the Kerry Way

June 10-11, 2023

Glencar to Glenbeigh , 12.5 km, 420 m

It was an overcast morning as I left the Climbers Inn in Glencar and this day on the trail would have a much different personality. There was more road walking, though thankfully almost all of it was along quiet country roads and farm and forest tracks. I passed by rivers and streams, and through fields, forest, and woodlands, all of it as peaceful as can be.

I had left the exhilaration of the mountains behind, but they were still present in the distance reminding me of where I’d been. It was a good day for contemplation and I was happy as I walked along.

Today, 3 groups of walkers passed me – an American couple, a young German couple, and three older Brits – all doing the Kerry Way but with their bags transported by tour companies. It was fun to chat briefly with each and to compare notes on our Kerry Way journeys. I walked at a good pace throughout the morning on easy terrain and sooner than expected I arrived at the turn to Windy Gap for another climb up to a mountain pass. This climb too was much easier than those of the previous days and I hiked steadily up,

stopping occassionally for views back to the MacGillicuddy’s Reeks, most of them tucked away in the clouds.

I continued on up the curving green path,

and then I was at the top with my first glimpse of the sea on the horizon.

I travelled a little further on and then stopped to rest with this view of Dingle Bay spread out below. Two long sandspits stretch out into the bay. Inch Beach (to the right) begins at Annascaul on the other side of the bay and is 6 km long while Rossbeigh Beach (to the left in the photo), extends 3 km. Both feature beautiful long beaches backed by sand dunes with native grasses and wildflowers. I had sadly missed visiting Inch Beach on my last trip to Ireland, and I wondered if I would make it to visit Rossbeigh Beach this evening.

After my rest I started the descent, first on the wide track for a kilometre or two,

and then on a section of road walking where my views were blocked for a while by tall hedgerows so I found enjoyment in looking at all of the plants growing on and over them. So many species, such vitality! Every square inch was covered by plants of one sort or another, all seemingly getting along as they shared the space and light.

Then I was passing through the outskirts of Glenbeigh and on into the town where I had another kilometre of walking to reach my accommodation at the slightly time-worn but still elegant Glenbeigh Hotel which began life as a stage coach inn in 1792.

After a refreshing shower I trekked back into town to do some laundry and find some dinner, and then returned to the hotel with time enough left in the evening to have visited Rossbeigh Beach. I didn’t feel up to the walk there and back but I really regret not having made the effort to at least walk there and ring for a taxi back. Sometimes I adhere a bit too strictly to my budget!

Glenbeigh to Limateerha, 15 km, 270 m

I started my day much lighter than on the previous four days of walking as my kind host, Richard, of Limateerha House where I would stay next, was transporting my big pack for me for only 15 Euro which is much more reasonable than the 30 or 35 Euro charged by many other hosts and baggage transfer companies. I was very grateful! I set off down Glenbeigh’s Main Street and then it was time to climb up into the Fairy Forest, a whimsical local trail and also part of the Kerry Way. The start of the Fairy Forest was appropriately carpeted with blossoms!

After the section of forest the Kerry Way joined a very quiet road which rose steadily for several kilometres,

and later provided views over the valley and across to Windy Gap which I had descended yesterday (the slight V between the mountains).

The road continued, always uphill, for a good long while, past farms and scattered houses and it was peaceful except for a few over-excited dogs barking from their porches. Today, I would again not see one other hiker on my entire day’s journey.

There was a turn to cross over the N71 and soon after that the Kerry Way finally left the pavement and joined a dirt track that began to lead me up to isolated sheep fields on the side of a mist-shrouded mountain.

As I climbed there were great views back. Rossbeigh Beach was already so far away!

The track rose and narrowed and began to travel on the very edge of the mountain slope.

And this was the view straight down!

The drop is almost sheer, with cars passing below on the N71 Ring of Kerry Road. If one should stumble over the edge I highly doubt that grabbing at bracken would slow the fall! The colour of the water was rather too mesmerizing, so eyes forward I continued on the path towards the encroaching mist.

Before rounding a bend, I stopped to take one long last look back at Dingle Bay with its duo of long sandy spits. What a view!

I left those dizzying views behind, rounded the shoulder of the mountain, and walked straight into a new kind of excitement – a very strong wind was blowing veils of mist at me and within minutes I was close to being drenched.

I put on my rain jacket but was too lazy to put on my rain pants… then two minutes later I put on my rain pants! I was in the rain, mist and clouds (or were they all the same thing?) as I traversed the mountainside and then passed through a long section of forestry with some newly cut areas.

The next highlight was seeing my first glimpse of the finale of my Kerry Way walk far in the distance beyond the end of the first body of water. I would get there tomorrow!

The rain eased up and I started a long descent on a beautiful section of winding road that passed a series of old farms and ruined cottages.

The views across and down the valley from those cottages and that road were breathtaking!

As I walked I alternated between looking at the distant views and features of the landscape and looking at nearer things – stones covered in lichen and moss, leaning fence posts, lambs with waggling tails, and the richness and variety of the plant life. Here I stopped when I noticed a curving line of blue forget-me-nots descending a shallow slope. They were growing where a tiny spring-fed stream was flowing!

I loved it here! Many people do the stage from Glenbeigh all the way to Cahersiveen (located just beyond the midpoint of the two bodies of water) in one go but I was very happy to be taking my time! I reached the bottom of that wonderful old road,

and continued along on a narrow trail until I crossed my last stile of the day and soon after joined a quiet paved road that led me to my accommodation for the night at Limateerha House. There I enjoyed wonderful books in the sun room, good conversation, and a home-cooked dinner followed by sticky toffee pudding with ice cream.

A wonderful day’s walking deserves a wonderful ending! Thank you all for reading.