I was so nervous as I packed up and headed out, then stressed by needing to locate a bus stop which had changed because of road work, and then just missing a bus, and then arriving to a festival in Marlay Park which necessitated a short detour. But, these were very tiny problems really, and I know the exact moment my stress and worry about this walk melted away. I was out of Marley Park, and headed up a steep road bordered deeply by green when I noticed that I noticed blackberry, ivy, and thistle. I was finally grounded in present. Thank you plants!
I headed uphill, and made the acquaintance of a very pretty mule who greeted me over a fence and we looked at each other for a bit. The next part of the Wicklow Way zigzaged up what is basically a logging road, locally called a forest road or a forest track. As I climbed, lovely views of Dublin city and the harbour opened up to the north.
After more climbing, finally the views I’d come for! Rolling green hills and valleys, and then the beautiful open moor.
The Wicklow Mountains generally run East/West, and the Wicklow Way runs North/South, so basically one climbs hills and then descends to valleys along the route. Today involved only the one climb and then a descent into the beautiful Glencullen valley.
I had previously decided to start my walk off easy by dividing the typical first stage of the walk (21 km from Marlay Park to Knockree), into 2 smaller pieces. So my first day was only about 10 km, with an extra 2km to walk along a pretty country road (here looking back towards where I left the Way), to Johnny Fox’s pub in Glencullen to arrange for transport to my bed and breakfast.
There was quite a delay in waiting for the taxi so I chatted with locals Annette, and Peter and his father P.D. (not the gents in the photo), both veterans of the Wicklow Way as well as other walks, including first 200 km of the Camino over the Pyrennies. PD shook his head more than once at the size and weight of my pack! They very nicely offered to give me a lift the five miles to my bed and breakfast, and that was the first of 3 friendy and kind rides from locals in and around Enniskerry. Thank you everyone!
I had a nice dinner in Enniskerry, a very pretty village, at Poppies Cafe, which will be recognizable to anyone who has seen the geographically-challenged, and ridiculously-premised movie “Leap Year.” Neverthless, I enjoyed the film because of the best efforts of its leads (a cute and spunky Amy Adams, and gorgeous British actor Mathew Goode, offering up what I now know to be a bad Irish accent), but chiefly because of the lovely shots of the Ireland. I have more location shots from the film if anyone is interested!
I had a very long and restful sleep at the fittingly-named “Ramblers Rest”, and woke up quite early this morning ready to go. After a good breakfast, I took a taxi back to the point where I had left the Way the day before. I started uphill, on a picture-perfect, sunny summer morning, climbing steeply out of the Glencullen Valley, listening to mama ewes calling their lambs.
I was soon climbing steadily up another switchbacking forest road which was lined with foxgloves, bracken ferns, and prickly yellow gorse.
Because I had started this morning halfway along the first stage, there were no other walkers about and I was happily, blessedly alone for about two hours before I started to meet a few other walkers coming the other way who had left Knockree in the morning. I did see two deer though! The first disappeared just as I lifted up my camera, and so when I saw a second deer, I just stood and watched her until she too quietly disappeared into the forest.
Here are some wonderful views from the top of today’s climb, looking east towards the sea with Dublin towards the north and then Wicklow and Bray. I thought the view special enough to figure out how to take a panorama shot on my camera!
Soon, I was descending into the Glencree Valley, and then after another few kilometres I arrived at the very pretty Knockree Hostel shortly after noon. So quick! They very kindly let me check in early, and I have the whole day ahead of me in this wonderful and peaceful place to check my email, write this blog, prepare some food, and then choose a book from the shelf.
The last two photos are views from directly in front of the hostel. It’s just past four o’clock now, and there’s a warm, late-afternoon light that I can see from the lounge, calling me out for a stroll to stretch my legs and appreciate the view once again before I start to prepare my dinner and begin my evening. Tomorrow is a big day, 21 km!
Thank you so much for reading!
It took a while for me to be able to log in so that I could comment. I seem to have a wordpress website too, lol, that I forgot about. A bit tricky to figure it out but hey! Now I can comment on your posts. Lovely to see your pictures Christine, and your writing which I hope you are recognizing as staying in the present while recounting the past. 🙂 Have a great 21 K, with the time difference maybe you are already done as I write this? Have fun!
Hey Christine! Wicklow Way looks gorgeous! I love all the cute pubs and cafe’s you encounter. Sounds like the people are nice too! I really don’t think you should push yourself re. the backpack. Just take it out of the equation and quit torturing yourself! We all know you’re a tough broad! Awesome blog, Christine!