Wicklow Way – Days 3 and 4

Well, I made it to Glendalough, 60+ km in 4 days!  I am resting my feet at the hostel, while waiting for my laundry to finish, and soon I will go out in the late afternoon sun to photograph the Glendalough monastic settlement and perhaps take a 3 km walk around the lower lake.

Day 3 of my walk started off in a rather silly manner.  After finishing my breakfast outside in the morning sun at the lovely Knockree hostel, I was gathering up my day pack  just as the leader of a rather large and very noisy group of German teenagers led her troupe out of the hostel’s front door saying, “O.K.!  Let’s go!”  Now, the previous evening, I had listened to these rambuctious and giddy teenagers for several hours as they interacted and played games outside, and one or two of their enthusiastic number seemed to only communicate by shouting.  Really!

So, I had to decide, go ahead of them, or wait for awhile and go after?

—–Interruption!  They’ve just walked into the hostel here at Glendalough!!  Noisly! —–

Now, as my family knows, I am not one to linger in the mornings when I have places to go and things to see, and I did not want to wait a half hour, or an hour, and then perhaps still end up playing leap frog with them and being always in their vicinity.  So, I grabbed up my bag and hustled off ahead of them.  They were only a hundred metres behind at the start, and it took me about 3 or 4 km, at a very fast pace, mostly uphill, at the beginning of a 21 km walk (not too smart Christine!), to finally evade their big voices.

Then, hourray, I was finally in peaceful territory again!  The big uphill climb was rewarded by a view over Powerscourt Waterfall, Ireland’s tallest at 121 m.

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Then, more climbing, towards Djouce Mountain, on the right in the photo above, interrupted  by a steep dip down into a saddle and the River Dargle, a very pretty spot where some people had camped.

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Then, back up again, and more steep climbing along the shoulder of Djouce until, in penance (and ultimately reward), for having decided to send my big bag with a transport company, I made a detour of about a kilometer (return) and an additional 150 m of steep elevation gain, to the summit of Djouce mountain (725 m). So beautiful! I was the only one up there, and I spent a good half hour enjoying the gorgeous 360 degree views, having a rest, and drying out my socks and boots in the warm wind and bright sun. Here are some pictures of the approach to Djouce and views from the summit, as well as one of myself up there using the self-timer on my camera.

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The view east towards the sea, with Great Sugar Loaf now behind me to the northeast.
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South
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West
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North
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Me!

The next part of the trail was also fantastic, walking 3 km along a raised, narrow boardwalk (there to protect the blanket bog and its vegetation) up over the long ridge of White Hill with views all around…

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Then down towards the Barr valley …

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where I had my first view of Lough Tay which borders an estate owned by the Guinness family.

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The next 7 or so km followed mostly forest tracks…

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Then downwards along the edges of some farm fields and over a few stiles…

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Until I finally reached this crossroads!

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The last 2 km, along a country road, brought me, finally, – hot, tired, and a little sunburnt, but happy – to my night’s accommodation at the Coach House Inn, built in 1820, in the pretty villge of Roundwood, reputed to be Ireland’s highest village.  I had a well-earned cider, roast beef dinner, and then a 12 hour sleep!

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This morning, after a filling breakfast of bacon and eggs, I called a cab to take me to where I had left the Way the night before, and then decided, while waiting, that I would ride an additional 4 km, to avoid a long stretch of road walking and in order to conserve some energy for my afternoon arrival at Glendalough.  The taxi driver, who was returning to Glendalough after my ride, offered to take my big bag to the hostel for me.  I hestitated for a moment, as that would be the second “cheat” in one day, but then said yes to the offer and was very glad I did as it was again a very hot morning of walking.  This last day, now only 8 km instead of 12, continued with ascending and descending hills, mostly along farmers fields and along forest plantations, with a bit of open moorland.

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The next photo is taken looking back from where I have come, and is the last view I will have of the distinctive and beautiful Great Sugar Loaf mountain as I finally leave it behind me.  It used to be in front of me!

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So, after about 3 hours of steady walking with only a few 5-minute breaks, I finally got my first view of Glendalough, the valley of the lakes.

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A quick descent down a lovely, cool, shaded forest trail, and I arrived at a very busy car park, where huge coach buses were arriving to deposit hundreds of people for tours of  Glendalough.  It was a bit of a shock after a very quiet morning where I had only encountered a few other walkers!  But, after hastily obtaining directions, I was out of the car park and around the visitors center to see my first enticing and peaceful view of the monastic settlement at Glendalough.  Knowing I would be back later, I took a only few quick photos as I walked the short distance to my hostel.

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And, just five minutes from my hostel, I was lucky enough to have this be the last photo of my walk along the Wicklow Way!

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