Ireland, 2023 – Not the finale I was expecting on my Kerry Way walk! Then, on to Cahersiveen and Portmagee

Day Six of Kerry Way Walk – Limateerha to Cahersiveen – 13 km

So, I’ll get straight to the point, and it isn’t pleasant or pretty! I started off my morning with three visits to the bathroom and much of the day was an exercise in finding discreet places to make emergency outdoor bathroom stops. It was the start of food poisoning symptoms that would last for over a week and severely cramp my style (in more ways than one!). I believe that the culprit was an undercooked hamburger in Glencar which I had wanted to return to the kitchen and definitely should have. I need to learn to be more assertive!! There were some good moments on my walk, and in the ensuing days, and so I’ll report on those and try to leave out the unpleasant details of my illness!

The last leg of my journey on the Kerry Way was mostly level walking along peaceful country roads, paved and unpaved. I was heading towards Blen Tee, the pointy-tipped mountain in the distance,

and I often turned to look back up the luxuriant green valley that I had traversed the previous day.

I reached the turnoff where the Kerry Way loop continues towards Waterville, but my journey continued straight on the linking spur to Cahersiveen. Soon after there was a beautiful long section of bog to traverse, but the walking was dry and easy on an access road.

There were also many stiles to cross over, into and out of farm fields. At this one I took a rest at the top as it was shaded and had a wonderful view of a meadow.

Two Dutch gentlemen came along, the only other hikers that I would see today, and they were very fit-looking older fellows carrying big backpacks. We said hello as they passed and later I met them again at a small shallow river where they having a wash, one of them naked. I talked for a few minutes with the non-naked one and learned that they were camping and had been walking for ten days. They had done the entire Beara Way (206 km) and had come this far on the Kerry Way (about 70 km) in those ten days, for an average of about 28 km per day with all of their gear. When I remarked on the distance, the fellow just smiled and said simply, “We like walking.”

I carried on, always heading towards Blen Tee Mountain. I would be crossing over its shoulder and then around to my final destination at Cahersiveen.

The day grew to be very warm and muggy and the Kerry Way made a few turns the didn’t seem to make sense. I was getting hot and tired, and worried about the state of my tummy, so when I hit a section of paved road I distracted myself with noticing the flowers along the roadside and hedges and I noticed a few new ones that I hadn’t yet met including the beautiful purple loosestrife (top left) which is invasive at home but native here in Ireland.

A few kilometres on, I had another restful break on top of a shaded stile, this time looking back at the long valley that I had traversed and at the distant mountains that I had come over.

Then, I got lost for the first time on the trail. I came to a sign and was interested in the Blentee Loop Walk and other signed trails and so I didn’t notice that the Kerry Way made a right turn here. I continued straight and headed a good distance uphill unnecessarily, noticed my mistake, and then compounded it by figuring that I could traverse some farm fields to get to the proper path. I traversed one wide field, then another, then halfway across the third I realized that I would not be able to get over a high stone fence. Darn! I recrossed the fields, headed back downhill, and then found the post where I had made my mistake.

The next section rose through a blissfully shaded wood, and then opened up to great views looking back up the valley and ahead and down to Cahersiveen but my need to find a bathroom spot again (for the umpteenth time) was becoming urgent and that’s all I could think about. On all of my other long distance walks I’ve felt quite proud and ebullient as I’ve neared the finish but this was no grand finale. I was miserable!

I found a barely-private spot in the nick of time and once that was dealt with properly I descended the rest of the way into town feeling depleted and anxious. I found my accommodation, met my wonderfully considerate host Danny, and retired to the serenity of my lovely room to shower and lie down for a good long rest. Later, I made my way to a thankfully nearby grocery store to buy food for dinner, breakfast, and the next day. I ate my dinner, one banana and small cup of strawberry yogurt, in a peaceful park across from my accommodation which featured the ruins of the Old Abbey of the Holy Cross. That was a nicer finale to the day, and to my Kerry Way walk, and I went to sleep early, hopeful that all would be well by morning.

Leacanabuile and Cahergall Stone Forts

My tummy troubles continued over night but in the morning I managed to eat several slices of toast and I was determined to stick with my itinerary of visiting two stone forts and a ruined castle located 3.5 km out of town. I was able to leave my pack at Danny’s and I set off on another beautiful morning. I crossed over the Valentia River, gorgeous in the morning light,

and enjoyed views across hay meadows to the marina and town of Cahersiveen, with the green slopes of Blen Tee rising up behind.

I continued along and was excited to have my first sightings of Ballycarbery Castle,

but then bathroom needs became urgent again and my focus turned to possible spots and there were almost none to be found along the public road with fenced fields and scattered houses on either side. But, I said that I would omit those details! So, let’s head straight to the first impressive 9th century stone fort, Leacanabuile, located on a rocky knoll at a high point in the landscape with far-reaching views all around to the river, sea, and hills.

The fort would have been the farmstead of a wealthy land owner with a protective circular wall more than three metres thick. One doorway on the east side would allow access into the enclosure where there had been a round stone house with an attached square house and other smaller round buildings. There was also an escape route via a passage below ground which exited on the outside of the wall to the west.

I had the site to myself and enjoyed the wonderful atmosphere and views. Looking across to the larger Cahergall Stone Fort on a nearby hill I could see that people were standing atop its walls.

I made my way there and by the time I arrived that tour group was gone and I had the fort almost to myself for about 15 minutes before another tour group arrived. The stone fort is a regular stop for the large tour buses that take tourists around on the Ring of Kerry drive. Partially reconstructed, Cahergall Stone Fort has a massive drystone wall which is stepped and terraced on the inside to allow access to the top to give a view across the countryside.

I was hesitant to climb to the top of the wall because I was feeling a bit weak and woozy but I’m glad that I did. I took care! Then I started the return walk back to Cahersiveen feeling quite unwell. Sadly, a visit to Ballycarberry Castle would have to wait for another time as I just did not have the energy for it, but I did enjoy the views of it across a hay meadow filled with waving grasses and bright yellow buttercups.

Danny was kind to let me have a second shower even though it was past check out time and I rested on a bench in his front garden until it was time to take the bus to Portmagee where I would spend three days in an Airbnb two kilometres out of town. Luckily the bus was able to drop me off right at the front door and I spent the rest of the day in bed very sIck indeed.

The next morning I had to cancel my long-anticipated boat tour to Michael Skellig, a magnificent dramatic two-peaked mountain of rock 13 miles off the coast with 600 ancient stone steps leading up to a 6th century monastic site with beehive huts and other archaeological wonders. It was to be the highlight of my trip to Ireland but was impossible for me to visit in my condition. I had a good long cry and spent the rest of the day miserable – bed, bathroom, bed, bathroom, bed, bathroom – you get the picture!

Portmagee, Valentia Island and the Kerry Cliffs

The next morning I still wasn’t well but I decided to do the 2 kilometre walk into town to see if there was any last-minute availability on that day’s sailing out to Skellig Michael. An emergency bathroom stop halfway to town convinced me that I was fooling myself that I was able to do the trip. I rested at the beach for awhile and then walked the last kilometre into town. I decided to walk over the bridge to Valentia Island and felt very sad indeed as I saw the tour boats heading out to sea on another picture-perfect day. I contented myself by taking pictures of the beautiful view upstream towards Cahersiveen,

and of Portmagee town and marina,

and of the view out towards the sea.

I walked to the Skellig Michael Experience Centre and rested at an outdoor table with a scone and cup of tea. I was nervous to eat anything but the scone turned out to be the perfect food for my condition (white flour and a bit of sugar, easily digestible) and I basically lived off of two scones a day for the following week.

I was still feeling sad about missed opportunities (I had originally planned to do several scenic hikes on Valentia Island on this day), but also resigned to my fate. It was definitely time to just slow down and take it easy. I walked back into town for a few photos and to buy some bananas, yogurt and several more scones,

and then I started to head back to my accommodation. I saw three women, about my age, heading to a car and impulsively called out, “Are you going to the Kerry Cliffs?” And they were! They were three retired teachers on holiday from Australia and they kindly gave me a ride up to the Kerry Cliffs, which had been on my itinerary, and then back into town. I was very grateful for the lift, for the company, and for the opportunity to do at least one of the activities that I had planned for my days in Portmagee.

The striated cliffs were stunning!

Though I did feel sad again while looking out in the distance at the Skelligs, with Michael Skellig on the right.

Oh well, I at least had another very good reason to come back again to wonderful Ireland. The walk from town back to my accommodation was a challenge again with my energy flagging and my thoughts turning anxiously to a long travel day on the morrow with four bus rides. More rest was definitely needed…

If you are still reading, thank you for following along on this less-than-epic part of my journey! I hope the details were not too off-putting! It certainly was an illness that exhausted me and quite took the wind out of my sails, but at least nothing disastrous had happened and though not yet fully well I was able to carry on. I hope that you will continue on the journey with me. All the best to everyone, Christine.