October 4, 2022
The ferry ride over to Capri was a crowded and confusing affair, as was accessing and riding the public buses once I arrived on the island, with ridiculously long lines for buying the tickets and getting on. I could complain more about the crowding and inefficient systems in place to move people around, but that is not very fun to read about! If any of my readers decide to visit Capri, feel free to get in touch with me first as I will have lots of good advice for you to make the experience less frustrating and more rewarding because this incredibly beautiful island has many wonderful rewards to offer visitors away from the hustle and bustle of the crowds.
My first piece of advice would be to stay over for at least a night or more rather than just coming over for a rushed day trip. There are some budget-friendly options available including my bed and breakfast accommodation at Casa Adriana, a lovely villa that is located in the centre of Anacapri just a few minutes’ walk from the principal pedestrian street. It features a large peaceful garden, and a view of Monte Solaro, Capri’s highest point.
The island of Capri has two main towns. Anacapri is located higher up on the island and is quieter, less crowded, and less ritzy than the town of Capri. Here are just a few photos from my first stroll through the quiet lanes of Anacapri.
After settling in to my accommodation, it was time to ride up to the top of Monte Solaro on the chairlift! The ride takes thirteen minutes, and rises 288 metres along an inclined length of more than a kilometre to the top of Monte Solaro (elevation 589 m). It was a very fun ride with wonderful views down to Anacapri and across the sea to the island of Ischia.
From the top, I got my first views of the famous Faraglioni Rocks, and also a dizzying view straight down a sheer cliff to the brilliant sea below.
I only stayed at the top for a few minutes as it was busy with people and I was greatly looking forward to my the hike down the mountain. Only a few people were ahead of me as I started the descent which began with a series of stone steps amongst a scattering of pines. A little lower, the trail entered a small forest and I noticed pink cyclamens growing wild in the patches of shade. I stopped to photograph them and noticed a narrow trail heading off to the right and so I decided to follow it. The trail led out of the trees and cut directly across the mountainside, and I had fun finding a few wildflowers growing amongst the rocks and low shrubby vegetation as I walked along.
There was absolutely no one around and it was blessedly quiet except for the pleasing sound of cicadas. I walked as far as I could until the trail ended at a sheer cliff with this magnificent pine tree perched precariously on its edge.
The pine graciously offered me a patch of shade and I sat for a good long while with this view before me, crunching on an apple and marvelling that I had this place all to myself.
Here is a zoomed in view of the Faraglioni Rocks below.
And to their left, also zoomed in, is the town of Capri. The cluster of buildings higher up and to the left of centre in the photo is Cetrella which sits halfway up Monte Solaro. Among the handful of buildings is the hermitage of Santa Maria a Cetrella which dates back to the 15th century. Sailors used to climb up to this church to ask for the Madonna’s protection for their voyages at sea. In the background, across the sea, is the Sorrentine peninsula.
Eventually, it was time to walk back along my trail to rejoin the main trail down, and on the way I enjoyed the views of Vesuvius in the distance.
After a short descent on the main trail, I reached the junction to Cetrella which was a mere half kilometre away. The pleasant path there travelled beside a stone wall that was inset with stations of the cross. When I reached Cetrella, there was no one about, but apparently sometimes the church is open.
From Cetrella, there were even closer views of the Faraglioni Rocks. The center Faraglioni has a large arch through its centre and tour boats take visitors through that arch. In the photo below, you can just see the wake of a boat that is about to travel through the arch.
I returned to the main trail and continued on down the mountain, with endless breathtaking views as I went. Along the way, I encountered a small herd of wild goats, and later I met a couple who were climbing up the mountain and they kindly agreed to take my picture.
It was a fabulous walk with stunning views, and a wonderful way to experience the first of several quiet and peaceful places on the beautiful isle of Capri.
