Backroads of B.C. – Liz Bryan’s “Circle of Silver” Continued – July, 2026

Kaslo, S.S. Moyie, Kootenay Lake, Kaslo Bay Park, Fletcher Creek Falls Recreation Site, Kokanee Creek Provincial Park

I arrived in Kaslo in the late afternoon, feeling a little tired, and although I’d already had a day full of history, with my museum visits in New Denver and Sandon, I decided to tour the S.S. Moyie, and was so glad that I did! A steam-powered stern wheeler, the S.S. Moyie is the oldest intact passenger vessel of its type in the world. It was launched in 1898 by the Canadian Pacific Railway to carry passengers and freight on Kootenay Lake, and it operated for 59 years before being retired. The aging ship was rescued, preserved, and restored by the people of Kaslo and it has a definite presence at the edge of town, parked on the shore of Kootenay Lake with the Selkirk Mountains as a stunning backdrop.

I was immediately energized by a bracing breeze coming off of the lake as I walked down the boardwalk to the ship and then climbed up to the passenger deck.

And then I was surprised and charmed by the elegance of the interior! Here is the Smoking Cabin, for the men, at the forward end of the ship,

and here is the beautiful dining room, in the centre of the ship.

This is a view into the Ladies Cabin at the stern,

and there were various types of state rooms, including a Bridal Suite, ranged along the sides of the midship, as was a pursur’s office, pantry, and bar service area.

Here are a few more images from the passenger deck, including some CP Rail promotional posters for the line, and a lovely section of stained glass in the dining room from which a lucky diner could view the passing lake and mountain scenery. (This is a reminder that you can click on any image for a larger view.)

I then rose up to the top deck for a view forward from the bow of the ship, and of the wheelhouse and the captain’s quarters.

It was all very fun! I descended to the large freight deck where the steam and engine works are located as well as the galley (with a dumb waiter delivering meals to the pantry above), and lots of room for haulage. The S.S. Moyie delivered everything from mining supplies and equipment, food, vehicles, and livestock including mules, horses, cows, sheep and chickens. The ship also delivered the mail, and was a vital communication and transportation link to all of the mining camps, small settlements, and isolated holdings on Kootenay Lake and in the surrounding area.

I walked around the exterior of the ship to view the paddle wheel at the stern, and came across a depiction of a typical miner’s cabin. Also on site was a small museum with items of interest regarding shipping and navigation on the lake, as well as a short film about how the town of Kaslo, inspired by volunteers and enthusiasts, acquired and preserved the ship.

After viewing the Moyie, I made my way to Kaslo’s municipal campground, but it was very full and the few remaining spots were cheek-by-jowl with the neighbours so I decided that I would camp stealth somewhere in town. I cooked my dinner on a picnic table in the riverside park, and then I enjoyed walking around town to photograph Kaslo’s heritage buildings, many of which were built in the 1890s and early 1900s. Here is Langham Hall, built in 1903, which now houses a museum, theatre, art gallery, and gift shop,

and here is Kaslo’s beautiful city hall. Built in 1898, it is the oldest remaining municipal hall on the B.C. mainland.

Galena ore was first discovered on the Kaslo River in 1891, and a mining camp quickly grew into the settlement of Kaslo. With the construction of the Kaslo-Slocan railway, and the introduction of Kootenay Lake sternwheelers, Kaslo became the main supply centre for the Slocan silver mines and soon achieved city status. But, it suffered many catastrophes over the years, including fires, a hurricane, lake floods, and creek washouts. It rebuilt each time, but when the price of silver dropped and ore deposits became depleted, most mines closed and the railway and sternwheelers stopped operating. By 1957, Kaslo was almost a ghost town with only 700 residents left, but the town’s scenic location, heritage buildings, and the preservation of the S.S. Moyie as a tourist attraction helped the town to survive and eventually thrive. There are still more than 30 characterful heritage buildings in Kaslo, and I greatly enjoyed strolling the main commercial street and side streets to photograph some of them.

As on my first two days of travel, sweeps of rain had come and gone throughout the day and I had to duck under an awning during a sudden downpour in Kaslo just after having traversed their rainbow crosswalk. The sky cleared soon afterwards to reveal a beautiful rainbow over the town, and then a double rainbow down at the lakeshore.

Continuing my explorations, I made my way to the pedestrian bridge over the rushing waters of the Kaslo River.

A 2.7 kilometre loop trail starts from here, and passes over another red bridge, but I’d already had a very full day so I regretfully decided not to hike and instead drove around town, looking for a good spot to camp stealth for the night, and luckily I happened upon the Kaslo Bay Park. Wow! I passed a boat ramp and marina, with colourful boat houses,

and arrived at a grassy park with a sandy beach and with the most amazing views!

I strolled along the shore and through the park, and then I brewed up a cup of tea, set up my camp chair, and pulled out my book, but my medieval murder mystery could not compete with the view and I sat here, very happily, for a long time just looking at the water and mountains. Later, as dusk approached, dark clouds moved back in to obscure the mountains so I returned to town to find a safe place to sleep. I parked on a quiet residential street in the gathering darkness, just as rain started to fall. It fell heavily on the roof of my Toyota for most of the night, but I was happy – cozy, safe and dry. It had been a wonderful Canada Day in the great province of British Columbia!

The following morning I returned to the Kaslo Bay Park to cook up my breakfast and enjoy those fabulous views again, and then I was off, south on Highway 31 as it follows the west shore of Kootenay Lake. I made a quick stop at the Fletcher Creek Falls Recreation Site to hike down a steep hill for views of the waterfall and a small walk-in camping area (only 4 sites), pleasantly located beside Fletcher Creek and the shore of Kootenay Lake. It was a beautiful and peaceful spot!

I continued on to Kokanee Creek Provincial Park which is situated on the West Arm of Kootenay Lake about twenty kilometres east of Nelson. I was lucky, again, to get a good FCFS site and I headed off right away for a quick visit to the Nature Centre and then a short hike alongside the rushing waters of Kokanee Creek up to the Canyon Lookout, and then along the pleasant Woodland Trail loop with its ripe blueberries, Saskatoon berries, and wildflowers.

Later, I walked the beautiful Grassland Trail which leads to a wetland area and small beach near to where where Kokanee Creek meets the lake,

and then continued on trails to Sandspit Beach and Main Beach where families were happily enjoying the lake and shore. Here, I changed into my bathing suit and walked barefoot past the green lagoon, and onto the spit and along the sandy length of Main Beach. What a joy!

I had originally planned to double back up the Highway to Ainsworth Hotsprings for a soak after securing a campsite, but I was happy at Kokanee Creek and so I enjoyed a quiet afternoon and dinner in camp, and then walked the Grassland and Beach trails all over again. It felt good to be on the road, exploring and appreciating new places. Thank you for joining me on the journey. 🙂

Backroads of B.C. – Liz Bryan’s “Circle of Silver” – June 2026

Lac Le Jeune Provincial Park, Blanket Creek Provincial Park, Upper Arrow Lake, New Denver, Sandon, Kaslo

Hello readers. I was supposed to be on a lovely one-month trip to Ireland this June/July, but I very sadly had to cancel the trip because of a leg injury (a 110 km long-distance walk on the Kerry Way was part of my itinerary). So, after moping about that, and then dealing with a bad flu (Covid?) for two weeks, I decided to set up my Toyota Highlander camper and hit the road to cheer myself up. I took Liz Bryan’s wonderful book, “Country Roads of British Columbia, Exploring the Interior” off of the shelf and decided to begin with her “Circle of Silver” chapter. I had done part of her route years before on a camping trip with Sophie and Daniel and we had loved visiting the historic mining town of Kaslo, the Cody caves, and Ainsworth hot springs. It was worth a revisit!

The drive on Highway 1 out of Vancouver, and then up the Coquihalla went well – it felt good to be on the road again! But, by the time I arrived at Lac Le Jeune Provincial Park, one of my brand-new tires was more than half flat, and another was low on air. A kind campground neighbour helped me to change the flat tire (it was impossible for me to undo the lug nuts!) and after that was dealt with I resolved to enjoy the rest of my afternoon and evening at a new-to-me campground. I was lucky to get a great FCFS site – large, private, and quiet, that was ringed with the green of aspens and wild rose – and I had my own little trail, decorated with wildflowers, that led from my site down to the lake shore.

I explored the day use area, with its fishing dock, mooring dock, picnic area, and lake views,

and then I walked for a ways along the lakeside trail to enjoy more water views,

and more pretty wildflowers including blue flax, orange hawkweed, purple asters, and the golden-yellow treasure that is the Columbia lily.

Back in camp, I cooked up a simple dinner, read for a while, and enjoyed the presence of a very cute squirrel, and later a very cute chipmunk, who came by to visit. Then, I walked again by the lakeshore, close to dusk, as fishermen tried their luck once more, and where the call of a loon was yet another blessing and reward for having roused myself to make the journey to lovely Lac Le Jeune.

The following morning, I took the quiet and scenic back road in from Lac Le Jeune to Kamploops and arrived at a Toyota service centre just as they were opening. Three hours later, my four tires all had new valve stems, and I had enjoyed the comfortable lounge with its free coffee and wifi with not too much impatience. Then, I was back on the road, flying along on Highway 1, east to the Shuswap region with its many picturesque lakes.

I turned south on Highway 23, just before Revelstoke, to arrive a short time later at the Blanket Creek Provincial Park where again I was lucky to get a large, quiet, and private campsite. Then, I explored this park which sits on the shore of Upper Arrow Lake. Trails led to Sutherland Falls, a heritage farm site, beach access points, and a warm water lagoon that was purpose-built for swimming.

The rain came and went in sweeps throughout the afternoon and early evening, and I returned to the lakeshore often, hopeful that the clouds and mist would cease clinging so stubbornly to the surrounding mountains’ sides and peaks.

And, sure enough, for a brief time the clouds blew away to reveal a few of the snow-dappled peaks to the southeast,

and then later coalesced again, near dusk, to create this lovely blue symphony of mountains, lake, and sky.

The following morning I woke early, cooked up breakfast and coffee, and made my way south to Shelter Bay to catch the ferry across Upper Arrow Lake to Galena Bay. It was a bright morning and the ferry crossing was very fun, with lake, mountain, and forest views all around.

We landed in Galena Bay, and I headed south on H 23, electing not to stop for a soak at either Halcyon or Nakusp Hot Springs, though I know that they are both wonderful from previous visits! I did make a quick stop at beautiful Ione Falls,

and then I transitioned to Highway 6 east at Nakusp to journey up and across the Valhalla Mountains to the “Silvery Slocan”. In the early 1890s, and into the middle of the 20th century, this was an area of rich silver mines and towns that grew with energy and optimism during boom times, and then shrank when the price of silver dropped, or the mines didn’t pan out, or when catastrophes like fires and floods devastated homes, opportunities, and dreams. What remains on this route, for today’s traveller, are the stunning vistas and many fascinating historical sites that are remnants of our province’s early pioneering and industrial history. Highway 6 climbed up mountain curves to lovely Summit Lake,

and then it continued along on the east side of Slocan Lake to the tiny town of New Denver which was once a busy mining town filled with saloons, hotels, and mercantiles. Today, its remaining historic buildings, built in the late 1890s, are picturesque and well-maintained, and the old Bank of Montreal houses a fine museum that chronicles the booms and busts and operations of the local silver mines and associated enterprises. It was Canada Day, and very quiet in town, and I was drawn towards a small park at the corner of 6th and Eldorado Avenues where a brisk wind showed off our Canadian flag and a short trail led down to the rocky shore of Slocan Lake where that same wind was blowing strong and cold down the narrow lake-filled valley.

New Denver is also of historical importance to B.C. and to Canada as it was one of the sites of an internment camp for Japanese Canadians during the Second World War. Fears of a West Coast attack by the Japanese in 1941 led to the required registration of 23,512 persons of Japanese descent in Canada with the R.C.M.P., and by November of 1942, over 22,000 Japanese Canadians were relocated, and of that number over 20,000 were interned in camps, many in the B.C. interior. The Nikkei Internment Memorial Centre, with its exceptional Heiwa Teien Peace Garden, is dedicated to preserving the history of those Japanese Canadians who were interned for the duration of the war.

The Kyowakai Hall, built in 1943 by Nikkei carpenters, was a Buddhist Hall and a meeting place for the Kyowakai (“working together peacefully”) society. Now, it houses exhibits which chronicle the history of the internment here of Japanese Canadians who were dispossessed of their homes, businesses, and fishing boats, and forced to live here until the end of the war in 1949.

It is an excellent museum that moved me, and is an important reminder to all of how civil liberties can be severely eroded during times of war.

From New Denver, I transitioned to Highway 31A which led me upwards along the side of a very steep narrow valley to my next stop at Sandon, a tiny ghost town which was, amazingly, the largest town north of San Francisco for a time. Rich deposits of galena ore – a mixture of silver and lead – were discovered here in 1891 by two prospectors, Eli Carpenter and Jack Seaton, and the rush was on. Miners came from all over to stake their claims and the town grew quickly to include a city hall, opera house, churches, a hospital and school, hotels and many many saloons. Two railway lines were established to move the ore and newly-built wagon roads facilitated travel to the area. But, positioned as it was below steep mountain slopes and at the junction of two fast-flowing creeks, the town suffered much over its sixty year history including fires, floods, avalanches, and downturns when the price of silver was low. Then, Sandon was almost completely obliterated by a massive flood in 1955 when Carpenter Creek “in roaring spring flood” (as described by Liz Bryan) crushed buildings and washed away most of the town. Now, just a few original buildings remain, and there is a motley assortment of things on site, but the Sandon Historical Society has done an amazing and impressive job of preserving, chronicling, and presenting the history of this town and the surrounding area. In the photos below are Carpenter Creek, and the old city hall, built in 1900, which now houses the Prospector’s Pick which is part museum, part gift shop, and part visitors centre.

There are a huge number of old vehicles and machinery on site, including almost twenty vintage Brill trolley buses that reside here in the hopes of possibly one day being restored. They come from multiple Canadian cities, and many are from Vancouver with their route names still visible like “Main Street”, “Fraser”, and, fittingly, “Kingsway to Slocan”. There is also a locomotive, #6947, built in 1908 for the CPR, which worked here in Sandon in the Kooteney Division from 1926-1928. I particularly liked a restored and very groovy teal-green 1957 Chevrolet 2 door station wagon, and the mottled pastel pinks and blues of an old Kenworth dump truck.

I visited the Sandon Museum which is housed in the Slocan Mercantile Block. Originally a general store, it was built in 1900 and was the only building in Sandon ever to be constructed out of brick. Interned Japanese Canadians were housed here from 1942-1949. The museum is filled with historical objects and photos, most of which are thoroughly described. I was very impressed with the amount of work and care that has gone into the exhibits here.

As well as the main floor, and a mezzanine, a lower floor featured more exhibits including tools, machinery, and a construction of a typical miner’s shack.

From its earliest days as a city, Sandon was equipped with hydroelectric power and the Silversmith Power and Light station, built in 1897, is still in operation today and can be toured for free or a donation. It provides electricity to the residents of Sandon and New Denver, and it has the distinction of being Canada’s oldest continually-operating power plant.

I spent perhaps almost three hours in Sandon, and was very happy to have explored and learned about this town and its mining history. Because I was a teacher, I’ll leave you with a final photo from the museum, “The Last Class to Attend Sandon School, Grades 1 to 4, 1954”, and because I can’t resist flowers, a few photos from those found by the creek and on the hillside at Sandon.

Time to get back on the road! Highway 31A continued to climb to a summit at 1000 metres where a rest stop bordered pretty Fish Lake. There, this mama duck had nine dutiful offspring that followed her in formation away from my gentle approach, just in case!

Shortly after the summit, the road followed the curves of the rushing Kaslo River down down down towards the town of Kaslo, Kootenay Lake, and the tall mountain peaks of the Selkirk range.

The historic mining town of Kaslo is well-remembered from a former trip, and I was looking forward to reacquainting myself with its lovely old buildings and scenic location on the shores of Kootenay Lake, with mountain views all around. And, I am now looking forward to sharing that with you in my next post as I continue on my “Circle of Silver Tour.” Thank you for reading!