I am feeling rather blissed out right now, after another fantastic day of walking up in the hills and on a high moor, and also having consumed “just a bit” of sherry here in my lovely bedroom, compliments of my hosts. The expression “be here now” is one that I use to focus my attention on the present when I’m walking in the forest at home and I notice that my planning brain is in full gear (which it usually is – having been a teacher for almost thirty years, and a mom, this part of my brain is very well developed!). On this entire holiday, because everything is so new and exciting, I have had much less trouble being “in the moment” and aware of my self and my surroundings. I do find though, that my “narrative” brain, and planning brain are on more than I would like due to the writing of this blog. I find myself rehearsing what I will say for certain photos and experiences on the trail. For this reason, and because it takes quite a bit of evening time, I have been considering abandoning the blog, but I decided that I would just try to be even more mindful of when my narrative and planning brains were turned on, and use “be here now” to get me back to the experience of the moment. I succeeded fairly well today! It was hard not to, with the wind and the rain and the ever-changing scenery all around me, and I made a point of stopping more to rest and just be.
The first wonderful moment of the day was looking out my window, just after awakening, to see a European robin on the wall of the garden at Hethpool House. I love them! They are the prettiest birds, and I was so charmed to see one. The sun was shining and I proceeded downstairs to have yet another delicious breakfast. After packing up, and saying goodbye to my kind hostess, I headed outside to see that the sun had somehow disappeared and it was starting to rain, so I came back in and put on my rain jacket and pants. I felt good, and ready to walk, and didn’t mind the rain at all.
I retraced my steps from yesterday on Saint Cuthbert’s Way, heading again towards Yeavering Bell.
And I felt very lucky to again see the Cheviot goats! It looked to be the same group as yesterday, feeding on grasses beyond the bracken. They are quite magnificent looking beasts!
I carried on uphill until the junction with the trail heading up to the top of Yeavering Bell. I was so tempted to go up to the top, to see the views and the ruins of the Iron Age fort, but I decided to carry on ahead without making the detour. I regretted that decision on and off for a good part of the day before I finally let my disappointment go. Actually, I feel it again now!
After walking a little further on, and zooming in with my camera, I could see that it was a two-topped hill, and I could also see the remains of rock walls of the perimeter of the fort, a gray line encircling the top of the two hills.
The path ahead though was enticing, and lined with patches of heather and golden grasses that were blowing in the strong wind. I startled at least twelve grouse out of the heather as I walked along the next kilometre or two. They complained quite a bit as they flew off!
Soon the trail was just a thin path through the heather, and after cresting the rise I could again see hills in the distance.
When I met two lady hikers coming towards me, I finally remembered to ask someone to take my picture. Here it is Gaetanne!
I crossed a stile over a fence (always fun for some reason!) and the moorland went on and on. Sometimes more grassy, or a little boggy underfoot, and sometimes with great swaths of heather. Lines and shapes were created by the path and stone fences and distant hills and clouds. The wind was constant and brought rain and then whisked it away again, and the light was constantly changing as the clouds moved across the sky. It was exhilirating!
More photos, as I’m too tired and tipsy to discriminate well!
I met another pair of local walkers, on a particularly windy, rainy stretch, and asked again to have my photo taken. I had to brace myself against the wind!
Finally, after I passed through the gate in the photo below, the weather began to settle. There were storm clouds ahead, towards the far hills, but where I was walking the sun had managed to break through some of the clouds behind me, and the wind eased up. The heather disappeared, and then I was walking on a long wide ridge covered in golden grasses. I did not want it to end!
I could see the beginning of the descent down to Wooler, my final destination. I sat for a long time on the edge of the path and just enjoyed the moment before beginning to head down, slowly and mindfully, very grateful for the time I had had on the moor. The descent to Wooler was longer than expected, in a good way, and very pleasant as I again began to pass along farm fields and the edges of woodland and by small valley streams.
The path finally joined a road at the edge of town which descended down to the High Street. I took a few quick pictures (including of an Austin mini!) before heading into the Co-op to buy an inexpensive but nourishing dinner of banana, milk, and cheese, to be supplemented with left-over bacon and bread from breakfast.
Here are a few scenes from Wooler, the “gateway to the Cheviots”
I turned and walked down Church Street to arrive at the Mill Yard House Bed and Breakfast. I am so so so spoiled! A lovely home, set in a pretty English garden (I had my dinner on the garden bench), and a beautiful garden-view room complete with a serving of sherry, designer chocolates, and the prettiest furniture.
Well, at the moment I’m mindful of how late it is getting! I am tired, but comfortable. Tomorrow is a longer day, 21 km, and will take me to within close sight of Lindisfarne. Then I will return here for another night as my host will pick me up and bring me back the next morning. So, from my pretty room, after a wonderful day of walking on the windswept moor, here is a second mirror picture to say hello and send peace to everyone I know. Goodnight.
You look super healthy and relaxed.
The b&b places are so character and lovely,
How are the boots holding up? must be broken in by now.
Hi Pola. I’ve been feeling really good – the scenery is so inspiring, my accommodations are wonderful, and I have Pola’s Granola with me as my taking-a-break-on-the-trail handful of deliciousness and nutrition! At the last minute I went with my old boots for comfort. I hope all is well for you, Steven, and the kids at home.