Glendalough

Glendalough is a beautiful place. It is the site of the remains of a monastic settlement founded by St. Kevin in the 6th century. It is located in a beautiful, narrow valley, at the confluence of two rivers, with two lakes just behind the settlement, a small, roughly circular lower lake, and then a longer upper lake just a kilometer or so beyond the lower lake.

As well, Glendalough is part of the Wicklow Mountains National park, and as such there is no development and there are many trails available for walkers and nature enthusiasts. On the afternoon of my arrival, it was the second of two very hot, sunny days and there were many families from the surrounding area and from Dublin out for a summer day of swimming (mostly kids as the water is cold), picnicking, and playing games on the open grassy fields. As well, many of the coach bus tourists who come to see Glendalough have time to stroll from the monastic settlement to first the lower and then the upper lake.

This is part of the lovely boardwalk across the wetlands, looking back towards the tower of St. Kevin’s church at the monastic settlement. The boardwalk parallels one side of the lower lake and thus helps form the pleasant 3 km “green road” loop trail around the lower lake and to the upper lake.

From the boardwalk you can look across to a small swimming beach on the lower lake.

This is the upper lake, looking towards the headwaters. I will hike there tomorrow, over the top of the high cliffs on the left, across the far upper valley, and then returning close to the shoreline through the forest on the right.

This couple is having a romantic moment, watching the ducks on the sparkling lake, as the sun begins to lower in the west.

One of the many grassy fields between the lower and upper lakes, and also there are streams all around…

I visited the monastic settlement in the late afternoon, the early evening, and again early in the morning, so my photos below of the settlement will have different kinds of light. My favourite photo is this one, taken in the early morning. To the right is the 30 m high round tower, built around the 11th century. These tall round bell towers are unique to Ireland. In the foreground is the 12th century St. Kevin’s church with its own round bell tower.

These are the remains of a small, 12th century cathedral.

As well, there are many headstones and celtic crosses that mark grave sites, old and new. Here are some more images from Glendalough.

When I visited in the monastic settlement in the evening and again in the early morning, I was there with only a few others. It was so quiet and peaceful, and I felt very grateful to be in such a special place where, for centuries, others have walked in reverence, service, and contemplation.

Wicklow Way – Days 3 and 4

Well, I made it to Glendalough, 60+ km in 4 days! I am resting my feet at the hostel, while waiting for my laundry to finish, and soon I will go out in the late afternoon sun to photograph the Glendalough monastic settlement and perhaps take a 3 km walk around the lower lake.

Day 3 of my walk started off in a rather silly manner. After finishing my breakfast outside in the morning sun at the lovely Knockree hostel, I was gathering up my day pack just as the leader of a rather large and very noisy group of German teenagers led her troupe out of the hostel’s front door saying, “O.K.! Let’s go!” Now, the previous evening, I had listened to these rambuctious and giddy teenagers for several hours as they interacted and played games outside, and one or two of their enthusiastic number seemed to only communicate by shouting. Really!

So, I had to decide, go ahead of them, or wait for awhile and go after?

—–Interruption! They’ve just walked into the hostel here at Glendalough!! Noisly! —–

Now, as my family knows, I am not one to linger in the mornings when I have places to go and things to see, and I did not want to wait a half hour, or an hour, and then perhaps still end up playing leap frog with them and being always in their vicinity. So, I grabbed up my bag and hustled off ahead of them. They were only a hundred metres behind at the start, and it took me about 3 or 4 km, at a very fast pace, mostly uphill, at the beginning of a 21 km walk (not too smart Christine!), to finally evade their big voices.

Then, hourray, I was finally in peaceful territory again! The big uphill climb was rewarded by a view over Powerscourt Waterfall, Ireland’s tallest at 121 m.

Then, more climbing, towards Djouce Mountain, on the right in the photo above, interrupted by a steep dip down into a saddle and the River Dargle, a very pretty spot where some people had camped.

Then, back up again, and more steep climbing along the shoulder of Djouce until, in penance (and ultimately reward), for having decided to send my big bag with a transport company, I made a detour of about a kilometer (return) and an additional 150 m of steep elevation gain, to the summit of Djouce mountain (725 m). So beautiful! I was the only one up there, and I spent a good half hour enjoying the gorgeous 360 degree views, having a rest, and drying out my socks and boots in the warm wind and bright sun. Here are some pictures of the approach to Djouce and views from the summit, as well as one of myself up there using the self-timer on my camera.

The view east towards the sea, with Great Sugar Loaf now behind me to the northeast.

The next part of the trail was also fantastic, walking 3 km along a raised, narrow boardwalk (there to protect the blanket bog and its vegetation) up over the long ridge of White Hill with views all around…

Then down towards the Barr valley …

where I had my first view of Lough Tay which borders an estate owned by the Guinness family.

The next 7 or so km followed mostly forest tracks…

Then downwards along the edges of some farm fields and over a few stiles…

Until I finally reached this crossroads!

The last 2 km, along a country road, brought me, finally, – hot, tired, and a little sunburnt, but happy – to my night’s accommodation at the Coach House Inn, built in 1820, in the pretty villge of Roundwood, reputed to be Ireland’s highest village. I had a well-earned cider, roast beef dinner, and then a 12 hour sleep!

This morning, after a filling breakfast of bacon and eggs, I called a cab to take me to where I had left the Way the night before, and then decided, while waiting, that I would ride an additional 4 km, to avoid a long stretch of road walking and in order to conserve some energy for my afternoon arrival at Glendalough. The taxi driver, who was returning to Glendalough after my ride, offered to take my big bag to the hostel for me. I hestitated for a moment, as that would be the second “cheat” in one day, but then said yes to the offer and was very glad I did as it was again a very hot morning of walking. This last day, now only 8 km instead of 12, continued with ascending and descending hills, mostly along farmers fields and along forest plantations, with a bit of open moorland.

The next photo is taken looking back from where I have come, and is the last view I will have of the distinctive and beautiful Great Sugar Loaf mountain as I finally leave it behind me. It used to be in front of me!

So, after about 3 hours of steady walking with only a few 5-minute breaks, I finally got my first view of Glendalough, the valley of the lakes.

A quick descent down a lovely, cool, shaded forest trail, and I arrived at a very busy car park, where huge coach buses were arriving to deposit hundreds of people for tours of Glendalough. It was a bit of a shock after a very quiet morning where I had only encountered a few other walkers! But, after hastily obtaining directions, I was out of the car park and around the visitors center to see my first enticing and peaceful view of the monastic settlement at Glendalough. Knowing I would be back later, I took a only few quick photos as I walked the short distance to my hostel.

And, just five minutes from my hostel, I was lucky enough to have this be the last photo of my walk along the Wicklow Way!

Wicklow Way – Days 1 and 2

I was so nervous as I packed up and headed out, then stressed by needing to locate a bus stop which had changed because of road work, and then just missing a bus, and then arriving to a festival in Marlay Park which necessitated a short detour. But, these were very tiny problems really, and I know the exact moment my stress and worry about this walk melted away. I was out of Marley Park, and headed up a steep road bordered deeply by green when I noticed that I noticed blackberry, ivy, and thistle. I was finally grounded in present. Thank you plants!

I headed uphill, and made the acquaintance of a very pretty mule who greeted me over a fence and we looked at each other for a bit. The next part of the Wicklow Way zigzaged up what is basically a logging road, locally called a forest road or a forest track. As I climbed, lovely views of Dublin city and the harbour opened up to the north.

After more climbing, finally the views I’d come for! Rolling green hills and valleys, and then the beautiful open moor.

Day hikers heading up a spur to the top of Fairy Castle

The Wicklow Mountains generally run East/West, and the Wicklow Way runs North/South, so basically one climbs hills and then descends to valleys along the route. Today involved only the one climb and then a descent into the beautiful Glencullen valley.

I had previously decided to start my walk off easy by dividing the typical first stage of the walk (21 km from Marlay Park to Knockree), into 2 smaller pieces. So my first day was only about 10 km, with an extra 2km to walk along a pretty country road (here looking back towards where I left the Way), to Johnny Fox’s pub in Glencullen to arrange for transport to my bed and breakfast.

There was quite a delay in waiting for the taxi so I chatted with locals Annette, and Peter and his father P.D. (not the gents in the photo), both veterans of the Wicklow Way as well as other walks, including first 200 km of the Camino over the Pyrennies. PD shook his head more than once at the size and weight of my pack! They very nicely offered to give me a lift the five miles to my bed and breakfast, and that was the first of 3 friendy and kind rides from locals in and around Enniskerry. Thank you everyone!

I had a nice dinner in Enniskerry, a very pretty village, at Poppies Cafe, which will be recognizable to anyone who has seen the geographically-challenged, and ridiculously-premised movie “Leap Year.” Neverthless, I enjoyed the film because of the best efforts of its leads (a cute and spunky Amy Adams, and gorgeous British actor Mathew Goode, offering up what I now know to be a bad Irish accent), but chiefly because of the lovely shots of the Ireland. I have more location shots from the film if anyone is interested!

I had a very long and restful sleep at the fittingly-named “Ramblers Rest”, and woke up quite early this morning ready to go. After a good breakfast, I took a taxi back to the point where I had left the Way the day before. I started uphill, on a picture-perfect, sunny summer morning, climbing steeply out of the Glencullen Valley, listening to mama ewes calling their lambs.

I was soon climbing steadily up another switchbacking forest road which was lined with foxgloves, bracken ferns, and prickly yellow gorse.

Because I had started this morning halfway along the first stage, there were no other walkers about and I was happily, blessedly alone for about two hours before I started to meet a few other walkers coming the other way who had left Knockree in the morning. I did see two deer though! The first disappeared just as I lifted up my camera, and so when I saw a second deer, I just stood and watched her until she too quietly disappeared into the forest.

Here are some wonderful views from the top of today’s climb, looking east towards the sea with Dublin towards the north and then Wicklow and Bray. I thought the view special enough to figure out how to take a panorama shot on my camera!

Soon, I was descending into the Glencree Valley, and then after another few kilometres I arrived at the very pretty Knockree Hostel shortly after noon. So quick! They very kindly let me check in early, and I have the whole day ahead of me in this wonderful and peaceful place to check my email, write this blog, prepare some food, and then choose a book from the shelf.

My room is at the top left in the white building, number 3.

I’m so glad I splurged on a private room instead of bunking it with 8 or 10 others!

And this is the view of Sugar Loaf Mountain from my room!

The last two photos are views from directly in front of the hostel. It’s just past four o’clock now, and there’s a warm, late-afternoon light that I can see from the lounge, calling me out for a stroll to stretch my legs and appreciate the view once again before I start to prepare my dinner and begin my evening. Tomorrow is a big day, 21 km!

Thank you so much for reading!

Newgrange and the Hill of Tara, and my golden last day in Dublin

Well, it’s only 3 p.m. but I’m pretty much done in so I have succumbed to a lovely treat of almond croissant and a coffee. Mind you, its the inexpensive version of a Tesco croissant (only 95 cents) and a free instant coffee from my residence kitchen (it’s not half bad!). I was bound to succumb, being tired and having passed multiple lovely cafes and bakeries today, some with windows like this. Who can resist?

After writing this blog, I’ll venture out again to do my laundry and then begin to organize my backpack for the start of my Wicklow Way hike tomorrow morning. I’m very nervous about carrying my backpack over long distances, and with some decent elevation gain and loss. It’s something I haven’t done since my twenties! So, I may have to resort to calling a baggage carrier for some of the days (the third day is 21 km!), which, as my dear friend Gaetane reminds me, is a perfectly legitimate and o.k., and perhaps even smart, thing to do.

Because of my fatigue this morning , I cut short my day’s itinerary, taking out St. Patrick’s Cathedral and shortening my visit at the amazing Chester Beatty Library. That means I will just have to come back again another time! Then, I will also visit the National Gallery, the National Museum of Natural History, the National Museum of Country Life, the zoological museum at Trinity College, the National Library, etc., etc., etc., spending a proper amount of time in each. Perhaps in two years I will come again and stay a month in Dublin, let’s say in May when it’s less busy, followed by the whole of June in the countryside. That sounds wonderful! Ah, dreams… But, as Brent has reminded me, it’s not what you don’t see, it’s what you do see.

And today I saw more gold than I will ever see again in my life! The National Museum of Archaeology which I visited this morning has mounted a special exhibit called, “Or – Ireland’s Gold” which features gold jewelery and other ornamentation from prehistoric Ireland, from 2200 BC to 500 BC. Just look at the treasures!

And there was more! Cases and cases filled with beautiful golden objects. My two favourite gold objects were in the Treasury, a permanent exhibit. First is a little purse-like case, and next an exquisite and stunning little boat dating from the 1st century, complete with seats, oars, rudder and mast, that is thought to have been an offering to a river god.

Also stunning in the Treasury were a silver and gold chalice, and silver brooches from the 8th and 9th centuries. The final image is of 9 golden balls, from an original find of 11, but two went missing before their acquisition by the museum. Amazingly, many of these golden objects, and many other metal objects in bronze, silver and iron have been found in hoards – buried treasure often found by farmers tilling a field or by peat cutters at their daily work. Can you imagine!

I greatly enjoyed my visit to the archaeology museum, and it was also exciting to view more common and practical objects from the prehistoric, early Christian, Viking, and medieval ages – objects in stone, metal, wood, bone, leather, wool, glass and ceramics. Every item, I think, is exceedingly valuable for the stories it tells.

After my visit to the museum, I walked to St. Patrick’s, decided against a visit there, then walked to the Chester Beatty Museum. Chester Beatty was an American mining engineer who became wealthy mining gold in Colorado, Utah, the Sierra Nevadas of Mexico, and the Klondike (in partnership there with the Guggenheims), and he also mined diamonds in Africa. He suffered some ill health later in life and moved to London. He was a friend of Truman and of Churchill, and he secretly helped to organize provisions for the British Army during World War II. As well, during his life he travelled extensively in the middle east and the far east and began a collection of rare and precious books. He gifted his enormous and valuable collection to the city of Dublin, and there is a purpose-built library, as well as a beautiful and restful circular lawn and garden, on the grounds of Dublin Castle.

As I was tired, I only browsed through two exhibits – “The Art of the Book” (wonderful!) and “Lapis and Gold – The Story of the Ruzbihan Qur’an”. Wow! Ruzbihan was a 16th century calligrapher, from Shiraz in modern day Iran, credited with the creation, along with his team of illustrators, of several amazing Qur’ans. For this exhibit, the library has unbound one book to display many of its pages so that the viewer can get a more complete picture of the beautifully, amazingly, intricately decorated text and illustrations, with gold on each page perfectly adding to the beauty. The craftsmanship, artistry, and discipline are truly astounding – rivalling and surpassing, in my estimation, the Book of Kells which I saw earlier this week. They will rebind the book after the exhibit ends in August. How lucky I was to see it!

Yesterday, I took a guided bus trip to Newgrange and the Hill of Tara. It was nice to rest my feet and body on the drive about 50 km north of Dublin in beautiful, green, pastoral county Meath, but my mind did not get a rest! It was a “Mary Gibbons Archaeology” tour and our guide, a Mr. F. Gibbons who is a medieval historian, was incessant, in a very good and challenging way, in providing us with facts and stories and current academic theories of a historical, literary, mythological, cultural, sociological, political, archaeological, geographic and even linguistic nature. It was wonderful to hear someone speak so expertly, eloquently, and passionately about his homeland and its long and complex history.

Here are a few photos of Newgrange and the surrounding countryside. Newgrange is a large circular passage tomb built around 3000-2500 years B.C. and is thus older than the pyramids and Stonehenge. The white quartz rock facing on the monument is a reconstruction from the 19th century, created from rock found at the site which was interpreted by the principal archaeologist as having once been the facing for the monument.

Exterior curbstones, as well as interior stones are carved with swirling, inter-woven spirals, diamond shapes, and chevrons.

We were allowed to enter as a group of 20 to travel about 9 metres along a narrow and low rock passageway to where the tomb opens up to a circular room, bounded on three sides by small circular alcoves with basin-like rocks lining their floors. The passage thus makes a cruciform shape. The guide spoke of the construction of the site, what is known of its creators, and their use of the site for ritual burial and probably worship of the sun. First putting us in complete darkness, and then using artifical light to simulate the sunrise on the winter solstice, the guide showed how the light would have travelled in a straight line from a hole just above the entrance, down the passageway, to illuminate the basin in the room at the top of the cruciform. It was very atmospheric and quite a special feeling.

We had a lovely midday break at nearby Newgrange Farm, where I ate my picnic lunch in the warm sun, kept company by one of Comet’s cat cousins.

Next, we travelled to the Hill of Tara, famous throughout Ireland as a place where for 800 years the High Kings of Ireland were crowned, and special long before that as a place where prehistoric people (before 3000 BC) created many monuments and earthworks including passage tombs, barrows, enclosures, a ceremonial avenue, and a ring fort. The site was important as a burial ground and as a place for ceremony and ritual for more than 1500 years. The hill is also associated with Saint Patrick in the 5th century, with a decisive battle of the Rebellion of 1798 where the United Irishmen fought and were defeated by British Troops, and with Irish MP Daniel O’Connell who hosted a political demonstration on the hill in 1843 attended by an estimated 600,000 people. So much history!

On the day I visited, Tara was a special hill on a warm, peaceful, sunny day, with beautiful views, and much enjoyed by children who ran and rolled up and down the dips and rises and hills of the monuments.

Goodbye from atop the Hill of Tara.

One or two days for Dublin? I don’t think so!

When first planning my trip, I googled “how many days to visit Dublin?” several times and was very surprised that most comments said that one or two days, maybe three at the most, was enough to “do Dublin”. I doubted that, and I initially planned for five days in Dublin. Later in my planning, when I was being drawn to visit so many other beautiful and historic places all over Ireland, I googled the question again. Yes, the answer was still “one or two, or maybe three days”, so I shaved one day off of my Dublin time in order to spend a third day on the Dingle Peninsula later in my trip. I don’t regret that choice, given that the length of my trip in Ireland is 21 days, but I do regret not having more time overall!

A week or ten days in Dublin would be the minimum, I think, for a visitor to take in many of the important sights and to have time some time to reflect on what has been seen and learned, as well as to relax, revisit favourite places, and just see where the wind blows you. Several months or even a year here would be even better, and even then you would still only just begin to scratch the surface in learning about the 1,200-year history and culture of this vibrant city.

But, back to my own all too brief stay here as a tourist. Yesterday was a busy day, too busy in fact, but still wonderful. First, the Book of Kells and the Long Room at the Old Library at Trinity College in the morning, then a walking tour of Dublin, then Dublin Castle, and then Christchurch Cathedral. Whew! So much history!

At each place visited today, I took a guided tour, which I feel is well worth the additional cost because the guides really know their material and are passionate about their subjects. They relate important facts and complex history in an accessible way, and also tell fascinating stories and anecdotes that amuse or enthrall or astound the listener. Thank you guides!

First, I went to see the Book of Kells exhibit at Trinity College. The excellent graphic displays and audio guide tell the story of this beautiful illustrated manuscript of the Four Gospels, created by monks in the 8th century. Two volumes of the actual Book of Kells are there for viewing, one opened to a page of text and another page opened to a full illustration. Today’s illustrated page was a portrait of St. Mathew.

There are no photographs allowed in the Book of Kells gallery, but photos are allowed once you reach the Long Room of the Old Library which houses over 200,000 books, and which features a beautiful barrel-vaulted ceiling.

The photo at the lower left, located near the end of the Long Room is labelled “vw” and, try as I might, I could not find “xyz” neither on the left or right! Ranged the length of the library are a series of busts of famous scholarly figures. For Sophie, who is the only teenager I know (or actually, the only person I know) who read Plato, and for the chemists and physicists among us, here are photos of the busts of Plato, Boyle, and Newton.

Also in the Long Room is an original copy of the proclamation made by the leaders of the Easter uprising of 1916 which precipitated the events that finally led to the creation of an independent Irish state after more than 800 years of English rule.

After my visit to the Trinity Library, I took a 2-hour guided walking tour of the “Highlights and Hidden Corners of Dublin.” Interesting, informative, funny. I greatly enjoyed this walk.

Then I visited Dublin Castle, a symbol of English rule over the Irish. Built in the early 13th century by order of King John, the only remaining part of the original defensive castle is the round tower you see in the photo below. The castle was destroyed by a fire in 1673 and replaced by a sumptious palace which was occupied by the British monarch’s officially designated representatative of rule in Ireland.

The foundations of the tower are built partially upon a wall made by the Vikings in the 9th century.

The tour included a visit to a chapel attached to the round tower. Saint Peter holds the keys to the gates of Heaven above the doorway.

Then the tour visited the State Apartments. This is the entrance hall.

And a detail from one of the urns.

Next was the drawing room, with the central portrait being by Van Dyke.

My favourite part of the state apartments was the beautiful portraits of a young Queen Victoria and her husband Prince Albert.

We also saw the throne room, for when the reigning British monarch paid a visit, and then the dining hall.

Dublin Castle is now used to house government offices and host official functions. Irish elements have been added to the rooms, in particular the Waterford crystal chandeliers, and the beautiful carpets made in Donegal. The portraits and other symbols of British power and rule remain as part of the historical record.

The last stop of the day was Christchurch cathedral, first built in the 12th century but with a very long history of structural failures, reconfiguration, and reconstruction. The original north wall still remains, though it leans outward by more than half a metre near the top!

My favourite parts of the guided tour were listening to the incredibly fascinating history of the building, within the context of changes in religious and political power, the visit to the crypt below, and up to the belfry. We climbed up a narrow stone spiral staircase of some 90 plus steps where, in threes, we actually got to ring the quarter-tonne bells for all of Dublin to hear! Here is the view from half-way up to the belfry.

Finally, one of my favourite graphic elements from the day was the floor tiles at Christchurch cathedral. All of the 63 tile patterns were copied in the 1800s from 800-year old tiles that were found beneath several layers of flooring during one of the many periods of reconstruction. The first photo is of the original 800 year old tiles, followed by a collage of the replica tiles from the 1870s. So beautiful!

As I said, a very busy day! Dublin in one or two days? I don’t think so!

I know better than to fly at night…oh hello Dublin!

Hello from Dublin! Thank you very much to the friends and family who have responded to my new blog. I greatly appreciate your words of encouragement! I don’t think the blog would actually have come to life without that day of continuous rain in St. John’s!

It’s a four and a half hour flight from St. John’s to Dublin. The flight was delayed by fog which meant we left after midnight, arriving in Dublin at my body’s time of about 4:30 a.m., with only a few short, miserable, and deeply unsatisfying moments of quasi-sleep during the flight. I arrived at busy Trinity College by about 10 a.m., Dublin time, to find that my residence room was already available! Hourray, a nap! But my body did not want to nap, it wanted a full 8 hours! So, over the next few hours I fought several times with the alarm and myself, wanting to sleep but also wanting to get up and go…I know better than to fly at night!

I finally woke up at around 3 in the afternoon, still not really feeling rested, and with a massive headache. But, after stepping out for some fresh air, a good cup of coffee, and a toasted cheese sandwhich I perked up somewhat. I decided to splurge on a hop on hop off bus experience to get the lay of the land while my body and head continued to recover from the lack of sleep.

The “green bus”, as it is called (there are also competing yellow and red buses) is a double decker and it is so fun to sit up top and up front. My first impressions of central Dublin? Busy, crowded, old, new, busted up (there’s so much road work going on in the central core as they put in, or maybe replace, a tram line). Tourists are everywhere in singles, pairs, families, and large tour groups. Locals jaywalk like crazy, and bicycle riders weave bravely (or foolishly, depending on how you look at it) among the myriad big buses and cars, taxis and motorcycles.

The one stop I had time for was Dublinia, a pleasant and informative museum that profiles Dublin during the age of the Vikings and also during the Middle Ages. There was also had a third exhibit about the tools and techniques archaeologists use to piece together an understanding of over 1,000 years of history. A good first stop in Dublin.

Here’s a picture of the entrance hall to Dublinia, with the prow of a Viking ship and with Christchurch cathedral in the background. Also, from inside, is a medieval recipe for Sweet and Sour Spiced Rabbit, in case you’re looking for something new to make for dinner!

Once I reboarded the green bus, I was lucky enough to have a very jovial driver whose commentary was a bit out there (!) and very, very funny. And, of course, that accent! Relaxing, informative, and fun!

Here’s a photo looking to the back of the green bus, with Phoenix Park, one of the largest urban parks in Europe, and home to the Dublin Zoo, to the left of the shot. I like the lines in this photo.

My ride ended just after 7 pm near O’Connell Street, and beside the River Liffey which bisects Dublin and which is crossed by many bridges including the famous pedestrian “Ha’penny Bridge”, the decorative white bridge below, built in 1816, which used to require a toll of a half penny to cross.

A short stroll through tourist-busy Temple Bar had me thinking of a drink and dinner…

But, I settled on some inexpensive and healthy groceries after conveniently happening upon a Tesco. Only 11 euros and I was set up with a dinner, some midday snacks for tomorrow, and breakfast for the next four days in the form of eggs, bread, peanut butter and jam. Eating out is very hazardous to a travel budget!

I re-entered the main square of Trinity College to find it nearly deserted, compared to how busy it had been in the morning with huge groups of tourists taking guided tours and lining up to see the Book of Kells. Yes! Room to breathe, relax, and take a few photos. Tomorrow, Dublin, I’ll do more than just say hello. Goodnight to my friends and family back home.

Skerwink Trail, and “So Sorry St. John’s”

On my last morning in Trinity, I hiked the beautiful Skerwink trail which is located just north of town. Only 5.3 km in length, this trail packs in forest boardwalks and sts, clifftop views, and patches of bog with their unique plants and flowers. And, as a finale in the last two kilometers, views of Trinity across the bay, a beautiful curving beach, and then a fine sparkling lake too. So much fun!

After my wonderful hike, I headed back to St. John’s, a trip of almost 3 hours. The driving was good until about 40 km from St. John’s when the clouds thickened and darkened, and it began to rain. It’s now about 24 hours later and it hasn’t let up a bit. It’s raining like the wettest, rainiest day we get in Vancouver. Two people who have walked by me have been completely drenched, as if they had fallen in the pond outside. As well, it’s below 10 degrees, and the wind is gusting from between 40 and 70 km per hour out there. I know this fact about the weather because I googled it while sitting here in comfort and warmth in a glassed-in hallway at the summer accommodations headquarters of Memorial University. Today was supposed to be my “Tour St. John’s” day, but, so sorry St. John’s, I’m not going out there until I have to for food and my flight. A happy time, though, writing up these posts and reflecting on my brief but wonderful time here in Newfoundland. I’ll see you next in Ireland!

Bonavista, and another look at the puffins

After my fabulous hike, I drove the 20 or so km north to Cape Bonavista with its iconic lighthouse. As I arrived in town, I at first found the settlement rather stark and straggly and utilitarian-looking, with the look and feel of settlements you would see in the Arctic, ranged as it is across flat, barren land. But, upon a closer look, I loved it. It is straggling, and somewhat stark, but also incredibly beautiful and historic.

I went first to the lighthouse which was fogged in and the foghorn was so loud! Jagged, huge boulders the size of apartment buildings are toppled into the sea at crazy angles just below the lighthouse. Then, I drove all over town, taking photos and enjoying the late afternoon light and warmth away from the fog.

The Canada flag at the top of the collection is there because I felt very emotional and proud to be “From Bonavista, to Vancouver Island…This land was made for you and me!” The stacked firewood at the end is there because in almost every yard I saw a wood pile. The wood piles came in various forms, arrangments, and sizes but each one brought to mind that I’m here in the summer but the residents are in it for the long haul through cold long winters.

I’m afraid that my pictures do not justice to Bonavista, and I would have loved to spend more time there, and probably should have, but I was hoping that I could see the puffins at closer range so I headed back to Elliston, hungry, but forgoing supper in the hopes of a lucky viewing. No such luck was to be had, but I did have the pleasure of meeting a professional nature photographer from Toronto, Megan Lorenz. Wow! Her equipment was impressive! She had a little stuffed puffin that she set up on the cliff edge to lure any curious bachelors to come close (puffin bachelors that is). None came by as we chatted, and despite my great reluctance to leave, hunger, happy fatigue, and a reluctance to drive home in moosey darkness urged me to say goodnight and head back to Trinity. Here are a few more puffin pictures I took, but if you want to see real pictures, with incredible sharpness and timing, visit Megan’s site. Viewing her photos is a pleasure and a gift!

What a glorious day I had!

Trinity, Elliston puffins and pony, and the Klondike hike

After my wonderful afternoon at Tickle Head and the Random Passage site, I headed 16 km back north to the iconic town of Trinity. You come around a hill, and there it is below you, a colourful array of beautiful historic buildings lovingly restored and hosting happy visitors. I took many photos of the town and buildings in the early evening light, as well as views of the lighthouse across the bay. Here are a few of those photos.

After a good night’s sleep in my beautiful room at Maidment House (the mustard-yellow house above), I headed up the coast to Elliston to hike the Klondike trail (no, not that one, this one was only 8 km return!) and to see the puffins. On the drive there, I saw a beautiful iceberg in the bay across from the pretty town of Melrose. I drove into town and then out towards the farthest point at the north end of the bay, but as I drove I saw a bank of fog moving in. It was a race! I grabbed my camera, scrambled over the rocks, quickly changed lenses and lifted my camera just as the fog obliterated the iceberg completely (it’s hiding just to the left of the islands off shore – perfectly camouflaged). And it stayed stubbornly hidden in that fog all day! I consoled myself by taking a few shots in Melrose.

I carried on to Elliston where I visited the puffin site. I had heard from a friend, and confirmed from research online, that the puffins who nest on the rock just offshore sometimes come onto the headland where hopeful visitors are watching from only meters away. Alas, I was not lucky enough to have this happen but I contented myself with watching and photographing these iconic Newfoundland birds from some distance away. They are very difficult to photograph in flight as they are really fast!

Then, some photos of the very scenic Elliston, famous also as the “root cellar capital of the world”, with over 150 of these cellars dotted around this area. Stunning coastline, sturdy houses, and one charming pony.

After viewing the puffins, I headed to the northern end of Elliston to do the Klondike trail. The first kilometer and a half went through forest and a beautiful bog where I took pictutes of the rather amazing-looking pitcher plant.

Then, the trail opened up and followed the clifftop around Spillars Cove to a rise from which I could see way far away across to the Cape Bonavista lighthouse. I wanted to keep on walking all the way there! As well, far to the west, across the peninsula, I could see 1, 2, 3, 4, icebergs far off in the distance. Tiny, but there! It was a glorious hike, so quiet. I met only a few other hikers for a brief hello, but mostly it was just me and the wind and the birds, flowers, and view. I was very happy!

Next, on to Bonavista!

“Tickle Head” and the Random Passage film site at New Bonaventure

After a quick stop in Placentia for some provisions of fresh fruit and vegetables, cheese and crackers, I continued north on Highway 100, then west on the Trans Canada, then north on 230 towards Trinity. Most of the Trans Canada was in excellent condition, but I still had to be careful of the occassional pothole which, at 110 km, could prove disastrous to my rental car. Newfoundland is huge, and the roadways are extensive. The cost of maintenance and snow clearance on thousands of kilometers of road must put a huge strain on the province’s budget, with not a huge tax base to draw on. What an expense to link all of the tiny towns and coves, but a lifeline to residents.

Finally I arrived at New Bonaventure, just south of Trinity, which was one of the film sites for the delightful and funny film “The Grand Seduction” starring the wonderful Irish actor Brendan Gleeson as well as Taylor Kitsch, Gordon Pinsent, and “This Hour Has 22 Minutes” favourites Mark Critch, Cathy Jones and Mary Walsh. Here are some photos of Joe’s Bar, which was built for the film, and of New Bonaventure which to me will forever be known by the fictional name of “Tickle Head.”

While researching the film sites for “The Grand Seduction”, I read that the same area had been used to film “Random Passage”, a 6 hour Irish-Canadian production about a young Irish woman, Mary Bundle, and how she left starvation in Ireland and servitude in a work house in England in the 1850’s to travel to St. John’s. She found work as a maid in a big house, but was fired without pay when the lady of the house did not appreciate her husband’s attentions towards Mary. An encounter with a chancey Irishman named Tim Toope led to the two of them attempting a robbery in the big house during which the owner was accidentally killed by Toope. Mary went into hiding with Toop in the cellar of a wharehouse on the docks in the harbour, having heard that she was wanted for the murder. There, she had a child by Toope, and he callously rid himself of a crying baby and a challenging woman by conning Mary into boarding a schooner which he said was bound for England. In fact, it was bound for the outposts of northeastern Newfoundland to deliver supplies in exchange for barrels of salted cod. Upon discovery on the ship, the sailors were happy to have a cook and a young woman to use for their pleasure, or so they thought. Mary fought and frightened them off with talk of spells and curses, and she abandoned ship at the first oupost they reached, “Random Passage”. At this outpost there were already other unwanted newcomers, the Andrews family from England, who had been put ashore because the mother was ill after a stillborn childbirth at sea. Unwanted by the few fishers who already inhabit the harbour, as winter is coming and provisions are already low, the story carries on for another 25 years of hardship, relationships, marriages, births, and deaths. It is a wonderful film, and I highly recommend it.

Here, are a few photos of the buildings and interiors that were built on site for the film and which remain as a living museum of life in outpost Newfoundland in the late 19th century. The guided tour was excellent, and the site was beautiful, with a lake, ponds and stream just above the settlement, and grassy meadows leading down to the cove.

And, to finish my wonderful visit, an iceberg offshore and then a bowl of moose stew in the onsite tearoom.