Cleveland Way Walk, Fall 2022 – From Staithes to Sandsend and on into Fabulous Whitby

September 18, 2022 – 13.6 km from Staithes to Sandsend

I took the bus from Saltburn to Staithes and enjoyed the steep walk down into the village in the quiet of the morning.

I was tempted to spend a bit more time in this characterful place with its tightly packed and colourful cottages, but I was also ready to get going on the trail so I stoppped only for one quick photo of the harbour which today was full with the tide.

I found Church Street (Captain James Cook once lived here), began to climb, and was soon rewarded for my efforts by views down into the village and harbour.

I was so happy to be once again walking in the blustery wind on the clifftop.

This camper must really enjoy being close to the elements! The wind was howling and the sea was roaring as waves pummelled the base of the cliffs.

As for me, I kept to the relative safety of the path as I had miles to go, headlands to conquer, and hills to climb.

The trail stayed high up on the cliffs for several miles until it made a descent into Runswick Bay, another small fishing village, where someone kindly took my photo.

From here, the Cleveland Way continued along on the Runswick Bay beach and past some Hob holes which are natural caves that have been deepened by jet miners. In the old local folklore, Hobs are characters who live in the caves, some of whom are mischievous and some of whom are helpful. Apparently, if called upon correctly by a distraught mother, they can cure a baby of whooping cough!

My guidebook stated that “it is possible to walk across the beach safely at high tide” but, 90 minutes after the high tide, I definitely had to wait for a lull between the rollers in order to scamper quickly past the base of the cliff without getting my feet wet.

Just around the corner, the trail turned into a narrow ravine and climbed steeply back up and onto the clifftop, with views back down to Runswick Bay.

The trail then continued to stay high up on the cliff tops for most of the rest of the day’s walk. It was a quiet day, with few walkers, and I enjoyed the peace and solitude.

Though there were a few new friends to say hello to.

Gradually, the trail curved around a headland and down through a wood to reach the small village of Sandsend,

and from the beach there I had a misty view of Whitby in the distance with its abbey and St. Mary’s Church prominent on the headland.

I returned to Saltburn on the bus tired (in a good way), happy, and excited about the next day’s walk into Whitby.

September 19, 2022, 4.5 km from Sandsend to Whitby

I awoke to another cold, windy and overcast morning but by the time the bus had whisked me from Saltburn to Sandsend the sky was clearing and it looked to be another beautiful day on the Yorkshire Coast. From Sandsend, it was only a 4.5 km walk into Whitby.

I had planned for this short walk into Whitby in order to spend the rest of the day visiting the town and abbey. The abbey however was closed due to the National Day of Mourning to mark the funeral of Queen Elizabeth. I was able to check into my accommodation early at 11:30 a.m., and I considered staying in to watch the rest of the service for the Queen being held at Westminster Abbey, but the day was just too beautiful and so I decided to head out and return later to watch the procession to Windsor Castle and the service at Saint George’s Chapel.

Whitby is a marvellous place! Attractively set along and above the River Esk, it has a magnificent harbour, a famous abbey, many museums and churches, and associations with fishing, whaling, Captain James Cook, the crafting of jewellery from jet, important religious events and figures such as Saint Hilda, and literary associations the most famous of which is Bram Stoker’s Dracula.

From the top of the West Terrace I had a splendid view down to the harbour and across to the silhouettes of the abbey and Saint Mary’s Church on the opposite hill.

After descending several staircases I came upon the statue commemorating Captain James Cook who came to Whitby at the age of 18 to apprentice as a seaman. Cook’s three major voyages of exploration were made in the HMS Bark Endeavour and HMS Resolution ships, both of which were built in Whitby shipyards. Very near to his statue was a set of whale bones to represent the whaling industry which flourished here from 1753 to 1837. At its height, there were more than 55 whaling ships working from the harbour. Today, whale watching ships (a much kinder endeavour) take visitors out to spy Minke, Fin, Sei and Humpback Whales as well as dolphins, porpoise, and seals.

From there, more staircases took me down to Pier Road where I walked upriver past a series of fish and chip shops and arcades with names like “Pleasureland” and “Funland” towards the Whitby Swing Bridge over the River Esk.

Here is a view from the centre of the bridge looking downriver toward the harbour and the sea.

The bridge led me to the historic centre of Whitby with its cobbled streets, old buildings, and intriguing little alleyways and corners. All of the shops, and almost all of the cafes, restaurants, and pubs were closed for the National Day of Mourning but there were still many people strolling about and enjoying the exceptionally fine weather (although I managed to take my photos with few people in them!).

An uphill climb took me to the base of the famous 199 steps,

and from about a third of the way up there were these fine views towards the harbour and across the river to the West Terrace.

At the top of the stairs was Saint Mary’s Parish Church of Whitby, with the Caedmon Cross in its graveyard, and beyond that the abbey. Saint Mary’s Church is a setting in Bram Stoker’s “Dracula” when the title character, in the guise of a large black dog, leaves a ship that has blown into Whitby Harbour (with its captain dead and its crew missing) and spends some time in a grave in the church yard. Twice a year, in the Spring and in October (near Halloween), Whitby hosts a very popular Goth festival.

Next, I descended the 199 steps and turned right at the bottom to head towards the east arm of the harbour pier.

It was so long! The first section was wide and made of large stone blocks. Here’s a view from about half way along its length.

And here’s a view down the coast. I’ll be walking on that headland on the way to Robin Hoods Bay. The waves were mesmerizing!

Next, I crossed over a bridge that led to the next, curving section of pier.

I walked out to the very end, and the walk back was just as exciting as the walk out with the wind and the waves and the views.

What fun! I returned to historic centre of town, crossed the Swing Bridge over the Esk, and walked upriver a short distance before deciding to save the rest of my energy for a walk out to the end of the west pier. This side of the harbour was busier with people, and there was a long line up at the one fish and chip shop that seemed to be open today.

I went to the very end again, and then as I made my return the beach to my right called to me. I found my way down onto the sand and walked along the beach until it was time to rise up to the West Terrace and my accommodation.

I felt good after my exploration of Whitby and its harbour, and back at my apartment I settled in to watch the procession of the Queen’s coffin to Windsor Castle as well as the ceremony in Saint George’s Chapel. BBC One Live had excellent coverage which included exceptional camera work and very informative, respectful, and minimal commentary. It was an inspiring and impressive procession and a very moving service and I was very glad to have watched them while here in Britain.

Cleveland Way Walk, Fall 2022 – Jumping ahead for a moment, 100 miles in and filled with gratitude

September 22, 2022, 10.5 km from Hayburn Wyke to Scarborough

Hello everyone. I’m jumping ahead for a moment as this afternoon I walked across the sands leading into Scarborough, with views of Scarborough Castle ahead, having walked 100 miles on the Cleveland Way, with only 9 more miles to go tomorrow to the official end of the Way at Filey Brig.

I was filled with emotion as I walked across the sand, so happy with my achievement but mostly so grateful for all of the gifts I have received on this journey. I feel intense gratitude for:

The gorgeous North York countryside and far-reaching views on both the moors and the coast
A well-designed and well-marked trail. Thank you to all of the staff and volunteers who monitor and maintain all 109 miles of the Cleveland Way
Splendid weather. How lucky I am! I had just one day of misty rain, my first day on the trail, and then nothing but sun and cloud and wonderful winds – I could just as easily have been walking in rain for two weeks!

Flowers, fields, ferns, grasses, hedgerows, woods, rivers, streams, birds, the sea, and all of nature’s gifts (including blackberries, bilberries, and windfall apples)

Charming towns filled with historical buildings including churches, abbeys and a castle

Excellent accommodations with kind hosts, good food, hot showers, and comfortable beds such as at my last night’s accommodation at the Hayburn Wyke Inn

Lovely, friendly walkers and others who without exception have greeted me with a smile and a hello (or often a “hiya” which is a cheery and popular greeting here) as we passed, or who stopped to chat and share travel tales like the couple below who I conversed with for almost an hour on a most well-placed bench

And last but not least, I am grateful to my feet, knees, legs and hips for carrying me this far!

I will stay three nights here in Scarborough before returning to London. Tomorrow, I’ll finish the Cleveland Way by walking to Filey Brig and returning by bus, and then the next day I’ll explore the town and visit Scarborough Castle. I’m also hoping to get caught up on my posts while I’m here – we’ll see! In the meantime, thank you so much for reading, and all the best to everyone back home.

Cleveland Way Walk, Fall 2022 – I’m at the sea!

September 16, 2022

Hello friends and family. As many of you know, I am in the U.K. in order to walk the Cleveland Way which is a 175 kilometre National Trail that begins in Helmsley, North Yorkshire, crosses the North York moors, and then continues down the North York coast from Saltburn to Filey, passing through Whitby, Robin Hoods Bay and Scarborough. I have booked and had to cancel this walk twice before, once because of Covid and then again last Fall because of foot pain, but I am finally here! Actually, I’m more than here and am already halfway done having passed the midpoint of the walk sometime this morning!

I have made several attempts in the past week to get started on my posts but was hampered at various points by a somewhat foggy brain (from extended jet lag), and a lack of either energy or internet (it seemed to be that when I had one I did not have the other!). But today, having arrived at the blustery seaside town of Saltburn, I am determined to make a start even if it means that I am “starting in the middle”. I’m sorry but you will just have to wait for photos of the glorious North York moors – what a week of walking I have had!

Here, I’m on the clifftop at the Victorian-era seaside resort town of Saltburn on a bright sunny day with strong (and cold), wake-you-up winds coming from the northwest and gusting up to 50 km per hour! This is the view looking north of the wide sandy beach which stretches towards Redcar.

And here is the view looking south. I will be walking along those cliffs in the distance tomorrow as I continue my Cleveland Way walk south down the coast.

This is a zoomed in view of Saltburn’s pier which was 1500 feet long when it was first built between 1867 and 1869. Today the pier is 681 feet in length, having been damaged multiple times over the years by storms. It is the last remaining pleasure pier on the North East and Yorkshire coasts.

I descended part of the way down the cliff on a zigzag of stairs and stopped to take these photos of the colourful beach huts arranged in a cheerful line facing the sea.

A few brave souls had rented two of the first three cabins and were sitting rigidly in their camp chairs, all bundled up against the wind, determined to have their day at the seaside.

I stepped onto the lovely beach of golden sand and walked north for a good distance.

I stopped often to look out at the waves and at the puffs of sea foam that were being hurtled across the water and sand by the wind.

Then I turned south and walked back towards the pier.

What a beautiful structure!

I walked beneath the pier,

and then up and around to its entrance building which was filled with arcade games (there were a surprising number of adults trying to win small teddy bears and other toys with grapple hooks).

It was so exciting to step out onto the pier!

And as I approached the end…

a young couple were sharing kisses.

This was the exhilarating view to the south,

then out to sea,

and then to the north. What a day!

Brrrr! I made my way back down the pier and decided that the perfect finale to my afternoon would be to ride the funicular up the cliff to the town. After all, “fun” is in its name!

Opened in 1884, this “Lift to Town” is the oldest operating water-balanced funicular in Britain, and one of only three that remain in the country.

Here is the view looking down from the tram window as we rose up (while the second tram descended), and the ride was indeed fun.

Back on the clifftop, I explored Saltburn which was developed as a resort town in the late 1800s by an entrepreneur, Henry Pease, who was involved in the local ironstone mining industry and associated railways. The town still retains its Victorian-era character and charm with grand homes and buildings such as the Queen Hotel which was built in 1875 (top left).

My accommodation, however, is much more modest – a small studio suite that will be my cozy home-out-of-the-wind for three nights (yes, that’s a silhouette of a backpacker painted on the window). I will use Saltburn as a base from which to walk down the coast on the Cleveland Way and return each day by bus.

Well, it’s almost time for bed here in the U.K. so I’ll say goodnight. Thank you very much for joining me on the Yorkshire coast on this windy, blustery, fabulous day!