Cleveland Way Walk, Fall 2022 – From Staithes to Sandsend and on into Fabulous Whitby

September 18, 2022 – 13.6 km from Staithes to Sandsend

I took the bus from Saltburn to Staithes and enjoyed the steep walk down into the village in the quiet of the morning.

I was tempted to spend a bit more time in this characterful place with its tightly packed and colourful cottages, but I was also ready to get going on the trail so I stoppped only for one quick photo of the harbour which today was full with the tide.

I found Church Street (Captain James Cook once lived here), began to climb, and was soon rewarded for my efforts by views down into the village and harbour.

I was so happy to be once again walking in the blustery wind on the clifftop.

This camper must really enjoy being close to the elements! The wind was howling and the sea was roaring as waves pummelled the base of the cliffs.

As for me, I kept to the relative safety of the path as I had miles to go, headlands to conquer, and hills to climb.

The trail stayed high up on the cliffs for several miles until it made a descent into Runswick Bay, another small fishing village, where someone kindly took my photo.

From here, the Cleveland Way continued along on the Runswick Bay beach and past some Hob holes which are natural caves that have been deepened by jet miners. In the old local folklore, Hobs are characters who live in the caves, some of whom are mischievous and some of whom are helpful. Apparently, if called upon correctly by a distraught mother, they can cure a baby of whooping cough!

My guidebook stated that “it is possible to walk across the beach safely at high tide” but, 90 minutes after the high tide, I definitely had to wait for a lull between the rollers in order to scamper quickly past the base of the cliff without getting my feet wet.

Just around the corner, the trail turned into a narrow ravine and climbed steeply back up and onto the clifftop, with views back down to Runswick Bay.

The trail then continued to stay high up on the cliff tops for most of the rest of the day’s walk. It was a quiet day, with few walkers, and I enjoyed the peace and solitude.

Though there were a few new friends to say hello to.

Gradually, the trail curved around a headland and down through a wood to reach the small village of Sandsend,

and from the beach there I had a misty view of Whitby in the distance with its abbey and St. Mary’s Church prominent on the headland.

I returned to Saltburn on the bus tired (in a good way), happy, and excited about the next day’s walk into Whitby.

September 19, 2022, 4.5 km from Sandsend to Whitby

I awoke to another cold, windy and overcast morning but by the time the bus had whisked me from Saltburn to Sandsend the sky was clearing and it looked to be another beautiful day on the Yorkshire Coast. From Sandsend, it was only a 4.5 km walk into Whitby.

I had planned for this short walk into Whitby in order to spend the rest of the day visiting the town and abbey. The abbey however was closed due to the National Day of Mourning to mark the funeral of Queen Elizabeth. I was able to check into my accommodation early at 11:30 a.m., and I considered staying in to watch the rest of the service for the Queen being held at Westminster Abbey, but the day was just too beautiful and so I decided to head out and return later to watch the procession to Windsor Castle and the service at Saint George’s Chapel.

Whitby is a marvellous place! Attractively set along and above the River Esk, it has a magnificent harbour, a famous abbey, many museums and churches, and associations with fishing, whaling, Captain James Cook, the crafting of jewellery from jet, important religious events and figures such as Saint Hilda, and literary associations the most famous of which is Bram Stoker’s Dracula.

From the top of the West Terrace I had a splendid view down to the harbour and across to the silhouettes of the abbey and Saint Mary’s Church on the opposite hill.

After descending several staircases I came upon the statue commemorating Captain James Cook who came to Whitby at the age of 18 to apprentice as a seaman. Cook’s three major voyages of exploration were made in the HMS Bark Endeavour and HMS Resolution ships, both of which were built in Whitby shipyards. Very near to his statue was a set of whale bones to represent the whaling industry which flourished here from 1753 to 1837. At its height, there were more than 55 whaling ships working from the harbour. Today, whale watching ships (a much kinder endeavour) take visitors out to spy Minke, Fin, Sei and Humpback Whales as well as dolphins, porpoise, and seals.

From there, more staircases took me down to Pier Road where I walked upriver past a series of fish and chip shops and arcades with names like “Pleasureland” and “Funland” towards the Whitby Swing Bridge over the River Esk.

Here is a view from the centre of the bridge looking downriver toward the harbour and the sea.

The bridge led me to the historic centre of Whitby with its cobbled streets, old buildings, and intriguing little alleyways and corners. All of the shops, and almost all of the cafes, restaurants, and pubs were closed for the National Day of Mourning but there were still many people strolling about and enjoying the exceptionally fine weather (although I managed to take my photos with few people in them!).

An uphill climb took me to the base of the famous 199 steps,

and from about a third of the way up there were these fine views towards the harbour and across the river to the West Terrace.

At the top of the stairs was Saint Mary’s Parish Church of Whitby, with the Caedmon Cross in its graveyard, and beyond that the abbey. Saint Mary’s Church is a setting in Bram Stoker’s “Dracula” when the title character, in the guise of a large black dog, leaves a ship that has blown into Whitby Harbour (with its captain dead and its crew missing) and spends some time in a grave in the church yard. Twice a year, in the Spring and in October (near Halloween), Whitby hosts a very popular Goth festival.

Next, I descended the 199 steps and turned right at the bottom to head towards the east arm of the harbour pier.

It was so long! The first section was wide and made of large stone blocks. Here’s a view from about half way along its length.

And here’s a view down the coast. I’ll be walking on that headland on the way to Robin Hoods Bay. The waves were mesmerizing!

Next, I crossed over a bridge that led to the next, curving section of pier.

I walked out to the very end, and the walk back was just as exciting as the walk out with the wind and the waves and the views.

What fun! I returned to historic centre of town, crossed the Swing Bridge over the Esk, and walked upriver a short distance before deciding to save the rest of my energy for a walk out to the end of the west pier. This side of the harbour was busier with people, and there was a long line up at the one fish and chip shop that seemed to be open today.

I went to the very end again, and then as I made my return the beach to my right called to me. I found my way down onto the sand and walked along the beach until it was time to rise up to the West Terrace and my accommodation.

I felt good after my exploration of Whitby and its harbour, and back at my apartment I settled in to watch the procession of the Queen’s coffin to Windsor Castle as well as the ceremony in Saint George’s Chapel. BBC One Live had excellent coverage which included exceptional camera work and very informative, respectful, and minimal commentary. It was an inspiring and impressive procession and a very moving service and I was very glad to have watched them while here in Britain.