April 8, 2022

Okay, I’m skipping ahead! I’ve already started a post about Arles (lovely, jam-packed Arles), but I’ll have to return to it later as I really want to be here, now. “Here” is sitting on my little balcony in Bonnieux listening to morning birdsong. Last evening, the birds were very busy flying from tree to tree and onto the rooftops and their calls to each other were amazing. It was a symphony!

I arrived in Bonnieux yesterday afternoon after travelling from Arles. The scenery en route was wonderful as we drove past the craggy limestone mountains of Les Alpilles and then into the forested hills of the Luberon, a protected natural area. From Loumarin, the road climbed steeply up through a narrow valley and around to Bonnieux, a hilltop town perched dramatically on a hillside and crowned by its 12th century ”Vielle Église” or old church.

I went directly to my apartment in the upper medieval town to meet the proprietress, Véronique. I was very excited about this accommodation because of its small balcony with a view over the hills. This apartment is on the upper floor of a house which has been in Véronique’s family for more than four generations.

After settling in, I set out to explore Bonnieux, but first I wanted to walk on the road, back out of town about a kilometre or so, to capture this view which was my first sight of Bonnieux as the bus approached town. Once you are in the town, you can’t see the town!

In Bonnieux, you are rarely walking on level ground – it is either up or down! Even my “street”, Rue Droight, starts with staircases!

First I headed up towards the “Vielle Église”, a 12th century Romanesque church at the very top of the hill. I climbed up one long steep “street” and then up another tall flight of stone stairs.

The church was not open, but the climb up was very worthwhile as there were beautiful tall cedars of Lebanon on top of the hill and it was very peaceful and park-like.

There was also an excellent view down to the lower town, including the ”Église Neuve”, or new church which was built in the 1860s.

Once, a castle stood up on this hill and the town has a heritage trail walk with small plaques describing some of the features of the remaining medieval walls, gates, buildings, and walkways. I really enjoyed walking up, down, and all around this quiet hilltop town.

In the lower town, I strolled by many restaurants, art galleries, and gift shops selling Provencal products on my way to purchase groceries. From a viewpoint in the market square above the new church, I took this photo across the valley towards Lacoste in the distance, my intended destination this morning via walking, a distance of about 4.5 kilometres from Bonnieux. Down, then across the valley, then up again!

Before heading out for my walk, I spent just a few moments at the Bonnieux’s Friday market. I love the Provençal fabrics and wish I could take some home!

The food, of course, is also exciting and I had a sample taste of cured wild boar.

But, I didn’t linger as I was excited to finally get out into the countryside for a walk. Luckily, the turn-by-turn directions that I had found on the internet took me to Lacoste via trails and small country roads.

I passed alongside many orchards and fields of grape vines, as well as through small areas of scrub and woodland. Here are several photos from my walk.

I love the lines in this next photo. From near to far are lavender plants, grape vines, cherry trees which have finished their bloom, cherry trees in bloom, tall deciduous trees just coming into leaf, successive orchards, and then hills.

Of course, I kept looking ahead as Lacoste, topped by its ruined castle, became ever more near.

After a steep climb into the village I made my way to the Tourist Information office housed near the Le Sade restaurant. The castle atop the hill once belonged to the de Sade family and the Marquis de Sade, famous for his debauchery, lived there for more than 30 years in the late 18th century. The castle is now owned by Pierre Cardin.

I made my way up the narrow streets of this very tidy town towards the castle. There are many art galleries and studios here, and many American students studying at the SCAD (Savannah College of Art and Design). It seemed a very fashionable town where I overheard comments like, “Remember, we met in New York at the opening…”

And at the top of the hill, here is the rear wall of the castle.

There were four sculptures there, including the profile outline of the Marquis de Sade surrounding the access door. The sculpture in the bottom right photo is inscribed: ”Le Marquis de Sade” by “Alexandre Bourganov, à Pierre Cardin.” Just a bit creepy!

I had already decided not to tour the castle as only three rooms are on view and they are apparently filled with some modern art (such as a giant stuffed giraffe) that has befuddled and exasperated some reviewers. I was curious, but I was much more interested in continuing another several kilometres down the road to a most beautiful and peaceful place, the Abbaye Saint Hilaire.

Built in the 13th century on a prior religious site, this abbey is still associated with the Carmelite Friars. The interior is an oasis of serenity.

As well as the main chapel, there was a small cloister and I was able to view the monks’ refectory and the chapter room which contains items from the history of the abbey.

The garden was beautiful and serene as well.

There was a terraced grove of olive trees, with views down into the valley and across to the hills. At the far end of the grove there are paths leading into the woodland that is part of the abbey lands.

I spent quite a bit of time in the garden and had the place all to myself. I ate my small packed lunch in a shady corner, and then spent more time appreciating the interior, exterior, and gardens of this very special place. The circular sculpture in the top right photo below is made of an ancient hay wagon wheel from the abbey. It symbolizes the Chariot of Fire that carried the prophet Elias, the patron saint of the Carmelites, into heaven.

I could not read the sun dial in the image below, but it did make me realise that it was time for me to start the long hike back to Bonnieux. I said goodbye to the beautiful Abbaye Saint Hilaire, very appreciative of the time that I was able to spend here.

Despite some fatigue, and a very warm afternoon, I enjoyed the walk back to Bonnieux and it went more quickly than expected. I walked back along the road to the chateau, back down the steep streets of Lacoste, and back across the quiet trails of the valley. Here is a view, midway, of Bonnieux ahead.

I delayed the final ascent into town a little by enjoying some wildflowers along the path. The honey bees and very big bumble bees were enjoying them too!

Goodbye from Bonnieux in the beautiful hills of the Parc Naturel du Luberon, Provence.