May 2, 2022 – Distance on the GR – 4 km from Plage Bréhec to Plage Bonaparte (plus 3 more because I got off trail!)
On my last day in Binic I set out to complete a 4 km section of the GR 34 that I had omitted because of the bus schedules, and I had to complete it in the opposite direction of travel, again in order to fit in with the buses. This was the first real morning with rain but it was very light and by the time the bus arrived at Plage Bréhec it had ceased altogether but the skies remained dark and gray. Again, Plage Bréhec was all but deserted as I arrived at 8:10 a.m.
Of course the trail started with stairs up, but it was worth it to rise up above the sea,
with views down to Bréhec.
Somewhere though, after these two sections, I took a wrong turn and got off of my GR and onto another one!
I ended up walking away from the coast along some country roads. The scenery was lovely, but I kept getting further away from the coast.
Each time that I was ready to pull out my guide book I would see another GR marking of the red and white stripes and thought, ”Well, I guess this is the way,” until finally I thought, ”This can’t be the way!” Both GR’s travelled to Plage Bréhec and I had veered off on the wrong one. I had done at least an extra 1.5 km and now had to retrace my steps! Grrr. At least I’d seen some pretty countryside and another ring-necked pheasant! Soon, I corrected my error and was back at the clifftop trail and with more views back to Plage Bréhec.
I felt a little sad as I walked along because this was to be the last of my cliff walking with wonderful views like these.
And, sure enough I arrived almost too quickly at Plage Bonaparte after my 4 km on the trail were done. Here is the view of the parking lot, with the tunnel and ramp down to the beach beyond it, and there was one lonely vehicle in the parking lot.
My pants and boots were soaked from the wet trailside grasses, the wind was blowing quite cold, and I had a good two hours before my bus would arrive 2 km away at Dernier Sou (because I’d missed the earlier bus because I got off trail.) Hmmm, what to do? Go right away to Dernier Sou and wait at the bus stop by the road, or spend some time at the beach? I decided to head down to the beach and as I neared the VW van the owner was arriving at his vehicle. I asked which way he was headed and thankfully he was headed in the right direction and offered to give me a ride as far as central Plouha where there was a bus stop and a wonderful café with croissants and pain au chocolat. Saved! Everyone here that I have met has been so kind!
I returned to Binic and after a little rest in my apartment I decided to to photograph some of the older buildings in the town that I had noticed on a walk the previous evening on my restful Sunday. I headed towards the marina over the pedestrian bridge,
and then visited the large L’Eglise Notre-Dame de Bon Voyage, built between 1821 and 1930 in a neo-classical style.
From the interior it was very obvious that concern for the fate of mariners and fishermen was paramount here. There were statues of Saint-Julien, patron saint of boatmen, and Saint Clément, patron saint of navigators. There was also the boat and the statue of Mary that I had seen at the procession on the beach the day before, as well as a memorial to the captain and 27 men of the ”Maria” who perished in 1901 in the Icelandic fishery.
Exiting the church, I headed up a nearby street that had many older houses along it, all quite distinct and interesting-looking with many different kinds of building stones and bricks used, and lots of evidence of ”patching up” over time.
Here are a few more,
And this is what can happen in the middle of town in Bretagne when the vegetation takes over a house!
I loved my week-long stay in Binic and regretted a bit not having explored the town more. But, there’s only so much time in a day, as we all know. I returned to the beach for my last few photos of the day and said a quiet goodbye to the lovely seaside town of Binic.
Distance: 12 km from Plage Saint-Marc to Plage Bonaparte, plus 1.5 km to access the trail from Tréveneuc and 2 km to access the bus at Dernier Sou
I headed out early for my second day of walking and on my way to the bus stop I passed the market square where merchants were setting up for Binic’s market day. I briefly considered not walking 15.5 km today to attend the market instead and have an easy afternoon, but the first day of walking had been so exceptional that I carried on with my plan, hoping that today would be the same. I arrived in Tréveneuc with its beautiful church,
and walked down a few quiet streets to access the path that would take me 1.5 km to the beach at Saint-Marc and back on the GR 34. The woodland path was so vibrant with new green growth and Spring flowers. “Where are all the rabbits?” I thought. (I had been wanting to see a rabbit since my walk between Vaisson La Romaine and La Costa). If I was a rabbit I would definitely live here.
At Saint-Marc beach, the trail quickly climbed up onto a headland and again my day was filled with cliff-top walking along headlands to rocky points and descents to long sandy beaches.
As I walked along, it was rewarding to look back at headlands that I’d traversed the day before, and ahead to the beaches and headlands to come.
The clifftop walking was fantastic with the ever-present wind, the views, the trail under foot, and the trailside vegetation of grasses, gorse and brambles, bright yellow and bi-coloured broom, dense patches of sea campion, and more.
Here is the view down to the small beach of Port Goret.
And here is the view over Le Palus, a large beach where a family of five on horseback cantered in a circuit the length of the wide sandy beach multiple times.
The descent down to this beach had been a long gradual one.
And that was the pattern on this day, with several long descents that swung inland to progress down a ravine to a cove or beach. The ravines were densely vegetated with tall trees, ivy, ferns, bluebells (and white bells) and countless other plants in every shade of green. Here the birds were very numerous, busy, and vocal in the tree tops.
Down at the beach of Le Palus, I walked to the water’s edge to watch a search and rescue team practice some manoeuvres in the strong surf.
This is the view looking back towards the distant shore.
I walked back to the buildings on the right side at the top of the beach to regain the trail, only to be confronted by this very steep beginning to the next ascent. It worked best to climb this staircase like a ladder! It was worth it though for the great view back down to the beautiful beach of Le Palus from the top,
as well as continuing great views of the trail itself and the terrain ahead.
Here’s an example, further along the trail, of my arrival at another wide ravine. I will descend heading inland (towards the left) and then rise up on the other side where you can see the trail cutting through the vegetation.
After that rise, there were more great views back,
and then forward to the Pointe le Pommier. It was truly spectacular and I was so happy to be walking here.
Beyond the next point there was this interesting cove at Gwin Zégal where boats were moored to tall posts sunk into the sandy beach. I wondered how long ago those posts had been installed, and who put them there!
Here’s another view back to Gwin Zégal from further along the cliff.
Soon I began to catch glimpses of my end point for the day, Plage Bonaparte. But first, there was another ravine to navigate and the ”up” section on this one was a very narrow footpath going pretty much straight up without a zig or a zag. A new kind of flower provided an excuse to stop for a few moments! (I think it’s time I learned how to take a picture of an ”up” that looks like it’s an ”up”!)
But again the climb was worth it to regain the cliff top,
and for the views of Plage Bonaparte as I drew nearer.
I began the long descent that would be my last on this day’s walk.
Access to the beach was through a tunnel below the parking area and then down the length of a concrete ramp. At the bottom of the ramp I plunked myself down on some rocks to rest my weary feet and knees and have my lunch.
There were a few people scattered here and there on the very big beach and soon an elderly gentleman of 76 years came by while I was having my rest and we chatted for a while. He had been digging for clams and had found oysters, clams and scallops to take home for a feast with his wife and his son and son’s family. He had a strong Breton accent and sometimes I didn’t understand him, and I’m sure that sometimes he didn’t understand what I said either with my Canadian accent and rudimentary French, but we smiled a lot and both enjoyed our conversation.
On the first two days of my walk on the GR 34 I have been alone most of the time which I love. I occasionally passed walkers who were out for a morning hike, some walking their dogs and some with binoculars for bird watching. I’ve also passed several couples with big backpacks obviously doing a multi-day walk on the GR. On my first day I had walked and chatted for a ways with a young woman who was doing a five day walk, and on this second day, as I was stopped half-way up a long incline to catch my breath, a young man with long legs, a big grin, and a backpack fully loaded for camping breezed by me with a cheery ”Bonjour” as if he was going downhill instead of up!
After walking 13.5 km, with a good amount of elevation gain and loss, I was feeling rather weary and I began to get chilled sitting on the rocks in the wind. I gathered my things, hoisted myself up, and decided to walk down to the water’s edge but suddenly it just seemed too far away so I stopped and took this photo instead, looking in the direction of travel and knowing that I would be traversing those next four headlands and beyond in the days to come.
For now though, I had two kilometres of road walking to do but thankfully it was a small and quiet country road with pretty views that helped to take my mind off of my now quite sore feet and knees.
I reached the bus stop at the small community of Dernier Sou, which translates to ”Last Penny”. There must certainly be a story that must be behind that name! I had to wait almost an hour but then the bus came and whisked me back to the comforts of my apartment in Binic. I was so happy that I had carried through with my plans because it had truly been another exceptional day of walking on the GR 34.
I arrived in Binic, settled into my wonderful third floor studio apartment with a view of the sea, and then headed out to explore the beach and port. The tide was way out which is typical of the beaches and bays on this coast. Saint Malo to the west has the highest tides in Europe and the water can rise 13 metres between low and high tide.
This coast is famous for the harvesting and cultivation of shellfish such as clams, mussels, oysters and scallops. As I got closer to the low tide line, the sand was peppered with clam holes and the evidence of marine worms.
Here is a view looking back towards the town. This is just one corner of a very big beach!
I walked towards one of the two long jetties that protect the harbour. There is a seaside outdoor pool here that must delight families during summer vacations, and I saw several more as I walked up the coast.
I walked out to the end of the first jetty to take this photo looking out to the lighthouse at the end of the second jetty. The surface of the beautiful green sea looks calm but up on the jetty the wind was blowing in strong gusts and I had a hard time steadying the camera!
I walked back down the length of the jetty and towards the second arm. To reach it I had to cross a little bridge above a lock. When boats want to enter the marina from the harbour, they need to use the lock and the bridge can be raised to allow sailboats with tall masts through.
I walked out onto the second arm towards the lighthouse. What a beautiful place on a beautiful day!
Back at the foot of the jetty there was a small rocky hill with this view over the jetty and harbour,
and this view of the next-over, gorgeous, beach.
The next day, I would be starting my walk onto and along that headland! Speaking of which, my path would start exactly here, with a somewhat daunting staircase – a portent of things to come!
I headed back towards town, but not before saying hello to two old friends on the rocks by the beach that I hadn’t seen since Northumberland, sea thrift and sea campion.
I walked back along the shops and restaurants that lined the marina and past the centre of town to a pedestrian bridge that led to a small civic park and a war memorial (each French town that I have visited has had one).
As well as the houses and yards being tidy and well-kept along this coast, the civic and public spaces have also been attractive and welcoming with gardens, benches, picnic tables, and other facilities for residents and tourists. My afternoon walk in Binic was certainly a wonderful introduction to my time here, and it had been exciting to see the beginning of the GR trail, despite it starting with stairs! I shopped for groceries for the week, did a load of laundry at the apartment, and perused my maps, guidebook, and bus schedules. I worried that I might not sleep well because I was so excited and nervous at the same time but I slept soundly (all that sea air!) and awoke early, ready to start my long distance walk!
Interruption: Yes, yes, I know – that was lots of text and way more than 6 photos. Oh well, I did say I would ”try”!
Second interruption: Feel free, if you like, to start a little drinking game each time I use the words ”beautiful” or ”wonderful” or ”lovely”. Warning: you will get tipsy very quickly! Don’t even try it with my exclamation marks!! (Dear Brent, you know who was famous for those.)
Day One on the GR 34
Distance: 13.5 km from Binic to Plage Saint Marc, plus 1.5 to access the bus at Tréveneuc back to Binic.
I awoke early and headed out to a sea that was gray this morning instead of green, and the wind was blowing strongly. The tide was way out and the boats in the harbour were sitting on the sand.
I climbed the staircase easily and quickly to rise above the beach and onto the trail which was a very pleasant surprise, a dirt path instead of an expected street. On my right was the sea and on my left was either a wild patch of vegetation or sometimes someone’s large and verdant back yard garden.
As I climbed higher, I had this view back towards the jetty. The wind was very evident as it pushed those waves toward the shore!
Soon I had left the houses and town behind me and new views opened up as I walked along the top of the headland.
This view back shows how the strong winds here affect the growth of the vegetation.
Below, on the rocky Pointe de Trouquetet, a cross was silhouetted against the sea, likely to memorialize mariners lost, or perhaps to help ensure a safe return.
I kept stopping to look at the beaches that stretched behind me and in front of me, and the trees on the clifftop trail offered a beauty of their own.
Sometimes the trail would veer a little more inland from the cliff edge and the vegetation on both sides of the sides of the trail would surround me. Here I enjoyed my first swath of bluebells and a leaning-over chestnut tree in bloom.
The birds were very busy and vocal in the trees and shrubs all along this trail, the wind was still blowing, and I was nothing short of exhilarated as I walked along! After 4.5 kilometres, the trail descended to the Plage des Godelins. For some reason the panorama function on my camera is not working so here is my sad attempt to capture the expanse of the beach.
The trail rose up again to travel along another headland and soon there were views down to the next beach, the Plage du Moulin, and beyond it to the long arms of the harbour jetties at St-Quay-Portrieux.
Another descent, and another up and over (which would become a recurring pattern), and I reached the town and harbour of St-Quay-Portrieux. Here too the boats were beached by the low tide.
I walked along the harbour-front street to the port area where a convenient picnic bench offered a sunny but windy place for a small break and snack. Beyond the harbour the next beach over was very striking and I couldn’t resist walking down toward the water’s edge.
This town is very popular with tourists and it is very easy to see why!
Because I was drawn to walk out onto this beach, I lost track of the GR trail (which is really well signed) but I reasoned that it is very hard to go wrong if I just keep walking forward with the sea on my right. Back below the cliffs my guess at the trail location was wrong but it was easy enough to navigate with my guide book and my cell phone and soon I was back on the correct path or rather street. The amount of street walking that exists on this section of the GR is minimal and is easily managed, especially with sights like this to keep one interested and happy.
After negotiating a small headland via streets and trail, more St-Quay-Portrieux beaches came into view!
Staircases led me down to a promenade over the beach where a large swimming pool was awaiting summer families.
I carried on down the long promenade, stopping to look back,
and then forward to the next little cove.
This was next! The beauty of this place was unending!
By this time I had walked over ten kilometres and I was beginning to feel a little tired, perhaps more from the excitement than from the walking – it was a lot to take in! The coastal path said goodbye to the town and began to rise up to anther headland with the shore below becoming very rocky.
At the top of the cliff the path cut a swath through the thick vegetation. You can see the line of the path ahead in the photo on the right as it tracks along the top of the headland.
The trail continued along past brambles twined with ivy and bright yellow gorse until finally I could see the beginning of the inward curve of the beach at Saint-Marc. Almost there!
A dip down, a new up, and then the path took me across a wide open field with one last descent to the 15th century Chapel of Saint-Marc.
I paid a very quick visit to the beach,
and then I said goodbye to the GR 34 and walked along a pleasant path to the town of Tréveneuc where I had unfortunately just missed a bus with the next one not for another three hours! The bakery and convenience store were both closed (darn Wednesday) and I had no pen and paper with me (lesson learned). I took photos of the lovely church, chatted with a couple of teen boys, read ahead in my guide book, and then in the last hour resorted to entertaining myself with youtube videos on my phone. I was tired but very very happy – the GR 34 had exceeded my expectations and I couldn’t have hoped for a better first day on my long distance walk.
Well, I adore Brittany. I am in Binic on the north coast and I have been walking on the Grand Randonée 34 (GR 34) path and have completed 52 kilometres over 4 days of walking (with more to come). The trail is varied and wild and is pretty much always in sight or sound of the sea. The scenery is nothing short of spectacular with a combination of long golden sand beaches, small rocky coves and gorse-covered headlands, the highest sea cliffs in Brittany, and small fishing towns that have become the joy of summer holiday makers.
It is so green here and the plants are full to bursting with life! The weather has been fine and the grandness of the landscape has been graced and made even more beautiful by the wonders of spring: wildflowers and young oak leaves, bluebell-lined wooded paths, ferns and ivy, beetles and butterflies and bees. I actually saw a butterfly bump into a bee!
The birds, including swallows, sparrows, and pretty little European robins, have been my constant companions and I have not walked one step on this path without hearing their songs and calls. I have felt exhilarated, profoundly joyous, contemplative, grateful, and sometimes all of those emotions at once. What a journey!
Now, I’m not quite sure where to go from here post-wise as I am very much behind. It’s Labour Day and a day of rest for me today. The sun is shining out there on the sea (it was supposed to rain!) so I think it’s time to go out for a walk to help me decide whether I will try and create posts about my arrival in Binic and my last four days of walking. In the words of Arnold, ”I’ll be back.” (Here are two pictures while you wait. They are the views from the front and back windows of my apartment here in Binic.)
Okay, I am back from my short walk to the beach and have delivered my recycling to the depot. This is the perfect place to refer back to some of the disappointments that I mentioned in my ”Musings” post. None of them apply here! I have seen almost no litter or graffiti, and I have witnessed people bringing their recycling to the many little depots available. Also, each beach that I visited had a large box at the access points for people to place any litter that they might find on their walks! All of the houses that I have seen while walking and on my bus rides up and down the coast have been very tidy and well-kept with beautiful and flourishing gardens. Such a pleasure to see! Here are two rather grand homes in St-Quay-Portrieux.
While out on my walk this afternoon, I decided that I will go ahead and create several posts about my days on the GR 34 trail thus far, but the posts will be brief, with just a few highlights noted for each day of walking, and I’ll try to limit myself to a maximum of 5-6 photos per day. Wish me luck!
Also while out on my walk, I was very fortunate to witness an age-old tradition, the ”Pardon de Notre Dame de Bon Voyage”. The church bells were ringing and ringing and a small procession from the church arrived at the beach to say prayers and blessings for mariners, and to remember those lost at sea and those left behind. It was very moving to see a tradition like this be respected and carried on.
Many of the fishing towns along the coast here participated for almost a century in the cod fisheries around Iceland and off the coast of Newfoundland. Fishermen would leave in schooners and be gone for up to six months at a time. From the town of Paimpol alone, between the first and last expeditions of 1852 and 1935 to Iceland, 100 schooners and 2,000 men were lost. Thankfully, life for many today on this coast, and definitely for me, is much easier and safer.
