France 2022 – Day 5 on the GR 34, and a visit to the beautiful Isle de Bréhat

May 4, 2020 – Day 5 on the GR 34 – Distance: 10 km from Paimpol to l’Arcouest

After a transition day from my apartment in Binic to my apartment in Paimpol, I was ready to resume my journey on the GR 34. As I prepared my breakfast, I could hear church bells ringing, and a distant fog horn (I love both those sounds), and when I left my apartment for the short walk to the port the fog was slowly beginning to lift. I found the place at the marina where I had last left the GR 34 and started from there, headed towards the tip of the large Ploubazlanec peninsula, l’Arcouest.

As I walked I could hear the loud sounds of the cutting or grinding or welding of metal (I’m not sure which!) coming from a large shipbuilding yard. As I walked closer, I passed by these three once-worthy ships and thought that it must be very sad for them to constantly hear the sounds of boats being created or repaired when no-one is ever likely to come repair them for a second life on the sea.

Past the shipyards, the GR led me onto a wooded trail that soon bordered the shore and then led to a salt marsh which is impassable at higher tides.

Drops of water highlighted the shapes of spiders’ webs hanging from the reeds.

Here was the view out over the water once I reached a small beach at the end.

Soon, the trail led through a wood thick with ivy and up to the small town of Kerroch’h where the first houses I encountered were all very large stone buildings with tall walls and gates, likely restored farm houses, barns, and other outbuildings. I also passed a tall carved granite cross that was erected over 200 years ago, the Calvaire Cornic.

Later, I passed the Chapelle de Perros Hamon, a 12th century chapel that was expanded and redesigned in the late 1700’s. This type of bell tower, with three bells, is a style that is particular to Bretagne.

I was impressed by how the GR 34 took me by some historic sights but then always found a way to get back onto a nature-filled track rather than continue on town streets.

I like this view looking across the bay of Paimpol towards the Pointe de Guilben and beyond. I walked all of the shores that can be seen on the other side!

Even within the towns, the route found little green nooks and crannies to travel on, and when on the short road sections, the houses and gardens and flowery walls were a joy to look at!

I arrived at Porz Even and there was a wonderful view across to a large chapel and the rocky Pointe de la Trinité.

Here’s a view of the chapel as I neared it on a lovely green path with the sea to my right, and then as I passed it.

I walked the short distance from the trail out to the end of the point where there was a fun jumble of large granite boulders, covered in orange lichen and with pink sea thrift growing in clumps in the crevices and dancing in the breeze. Here is a view back towards Porz Even as I returned to the trail.

Shortly after passing the point, the trail rose in a long ascent to the top of a high hill where another stone cross was erected in 1714 on the site of an ancient chapel. This one is called the Croix des Veuves, the Cross of the Widows, and in the 19th century wives of the fishermen who had left for the Icelandic fishery would gather here to watch for the return of the schooners. The site overlooks the beautiful wide curving beach of the Anse de Launay.

And, what goes up must come down, so there was a long but gradual and pleasant descent which took me down to the centre of that beach. The water was so blue!

The GR continued along the top of this very long beach on large cobbles which was rather a bit of a slog but there was an unexpected reward near the end, a protected natural area with a little wetland, a waterfront nature house, and a lovely picnic area which was the perfect place to stop for my lunch, complete with a sparkling sea view. The GR 34 has continued to impress me and delight me every step of the way!

From here, it was a fairly quick rise up over the Pointe de l’Arcouest to a lovely hilltop park filled with large pines, and then down the other side to l’Embarcadere where I would catch the bus back to Paimpol and return again the following day by bus to take the passenger boat over to the famous Isle de Bréhat. Look at the colour of the water on this side!

And here is the ferry returning from the Isle de Bréhat which is just across the water.

Probably about eighty percent of the people I have chatted with here on this coast, whether a local or a tourist, has asked me if I have been, or will I be going to the Isle de Bréhet. It seems to be the most celebrated place in the region and I was looking forward to my journey there on the morrow.

L’Isle de Bréhat, May 5, 2022

And here I am (although I’m not in the frame!), standing at the stern of the 9:30 boat as we set sail from l’Arcouest.

I took this next photo east towards the Pleubian peninsula where I would be walking in the days to come and made note of the white lighthouse in the distance as a landmark.

Here is a view of the quiet bay where we landed. This island is famous for its pink granite rocks, and a long section of the coast starting from here and heading east is known as the ”Cote de Granit rose”. L’Isle de Bréhat is also famous for being part of an archipelago of 86 rocky islets and reefs.

Once I arrived, I rented a bicycle because, although the island (actually it is two islands connected by a bridge) is only about 3.5 km long and 1.5 km wide, there are many things to see and many paths that loop all over the island. I had a map, and my pretty-good sense of direction, but it was very easy to get lost which was fine as every corner of this island is beautiful. Somehow I ended up at this pretty bay on the south island,

and I wasn’t even aware, at this next place, that I was crossing over to the north island.

My initial plan was to head straight for the northern tip of the island with its large lighthouse, but again I took a wrong path and ended up riding along the beautiful bay de la Corderie. Here is a view from near the beginning of the bay,

and from the centre of the bay.

The colour of the water varied from blues to greens depending on the level of the water, the subsurface, and the angle of the sun. It was beautifully clear.

I ended up arriving at the eastern coast of the north island near the Pointe du Rosedo and it was glorious here! There was no one around except for my old friends, the grasses, bluebells, sea campion, and thrift, all waving in the sea breeze.

Well, perhaps there were a few new friends as well. These gulls were likely waiting to see if I would have my lunch here!

There was a marsh area, sand dunes, and a curving beach of cobbles, all of it outstandingly beautiful!

Finally I managed to find the correct path to the Paon lighthouse which is at the northernmost point on the island. The granite here was definitely very rose-coloured!

From the lighthouse I headed towards the western shore along a pink-tinged beach,

and then up onto a maze of green paths dotted with gorse that wound behind and between large pink granite boulders and outcroppings to arrive at this gorgeous view back to the lighthouse.

I found my way to this next beach and choose a good spot to sit for my lunch, with views out to the shimmering water and the many islets.

All of a sudden though I felt incredibly sad and tearful because it was all so very beautiful and my family wasn’t here to enjoy it with me. I heard voices and a Welsh couple came down to the beach and began to look for a good spot for their lunch. It was pretty rocky and I had a good flat spot so I invited them to join me. They were retired teachers (even younger than me) who had moved to Bretagne exactly five years ago and were here visiting the island to celebrate the anniversary of their big move. We had a lot in common and the conversation flowed easily. It was a very nice antidote to my sudden sadness, and I greatly appreciated their company.

After we said our goodbyes, I returned to my bicycle and cycled at random all over, taking pictures of rocky bays, pretty houses and gardens, chapels, and a lovely field of cows. I finally pulled out my map and decided to visit the Chapelle St-Michel which is perched high up on a hill and has long served as a landmark for shipping.

From atop the hill beside the chapel there was a wonderful view of the offshore islets,

as well as a zoomed in view of the old tidal mill.

Which is where I went next.

There was a group of school children down there on a field trip, with their teacher earnestly explaining to them how the mill had worked, and I was a little sad, but mostly glad that those days are behind me.

It was soon time to return my bicycle and catch the 3:30 boat back to Arcouest in order to catch the last bus back to Paimpol. But, the five minute walk from the bicycle shop to the pier had turned into a 15 minute walk due to the lowness of the tide. Down, down, down we all walked only to see the boat heading off from the lowest pier.

But it was just a short wait until the next boat at 4 which would still leave me with time to catch the bus. I felt melancholy again as the boat crossed the water, and also tired from the full day of sun and wind and so much to see and experience. On the other side, we also docked at the lowest part of a very long pier and I noted how metal rings were installed the entire length of the long zigzagging pier so that the boats could tie up at any spot depending on the height of the tide.

At the bus stop, I re-met Alain, a Parisian man originally from Paimpol, who was here to settle his mom’s estate. He was taking a day off from the stresses of that task to visit the island which he remembered with great fondness from boyhood visits with his family. We had already met in the morning at the bus stop in Paimpol and had sat together on the bus and chatted. We had time for a coffee before the last bus came, and he told some funny stories from his school boy days and from his days as a guide at Notre Dame Cathedral in Paris. Like the Welsh couple, his companionship and conversation helped to lift my mood and we said a cheery ”Au revoir” as we parted at the bus stop in Paimpol. It had been quite the day. And, if I can return to the feelings of missing my family for a moment, here is one of my favourite pictures from the day because it reminds me of my dad.

Au revoir, from Bretagne.