Walking across the sands to Lindisfarne – a stunning last day of my walk on Saint Cuthbert’s Way

Yesterday was my last day of walking Saint Cuthbert’s Way, and the walk across the sands along the pilgrim’s path was amazingly, breathtakingly, utterly stunning! The day started with several kilometers of easy walking along farm fields before arriving at the tracks of the East Coast Rail line where I had to call to make sure there was no train coming (there was, at 100 mph!).

 

After another 2 or 3 km, I reached the causeway to Lindisfarne, which is completely covered by water at the high tide.

I crossed over this bridge, and met several other walkers as I waiting for the ebbing tide to recede further.   When it was time, we all took off our boots to walk the 5 km across the sand, following the line of poles that are interspersed with occassional rescue platforms for anyone caught by a rising tide.  The air and wind were warm and the water was not cold as expected.  The light was stunning! The clouds and the water and the company and the experience all melded together to create such a feeling of happiness that was far beyond what I had expected and hoped for.

Sometimes we were walking in an inch or two of water, and sometimes over sections of sand or very slippery clay-like mud.  The water was always moving, the wind was blowing, and the light would change as the clouds moved in front of or away from the sun.

 

After a while I slowed my pace because I wanted to settle back into solitude, and my companions moved away from me.

I continued on, following along the line of the poles, looking towards the island and out across to Budle Bay and Bamburgh Castle in the far distance, and towards the dunes at the northern edge of Lindisfarne.  I inadvertently frightened a huge flock of sandpipers and they took off and flew in formation away from me and swooped left and right, so fast, until they finally settled again.

I am almost there!  The photo above is the last photo I took looking forward to the island, and the next is a photo looking back towards where I’d begun.  The sky had darkened and rain was advancing quickly!  By the time I reached the shore, the rain was pelting down and I had to quickly pull on my rain jacket and pants and try to get damp socks back on wet sandy feet!

What an experience that crossing was! I was elated! I had just completed Saint Cuthbert’s Way!  I walked the short distance along the road into the village where I immediately sought out my accommodation, The Open Gate, a Christian retreat centre housed in a 15th century building. I took a few quick photos, met the hosts, and treated myself to a hot shower and a cup of tea while warming up in bed!

 

After a little rest, I headed outside to explore.  By now it was late afternoon and the light and sky continued to be changeable.  Here are some photos from around the small village.

 

I walked to the western edge of the village towards the beach and took some photos as I headed up to the Heugh, a whinstone ridge with an elevated position and views over the island and surrounding area.

From further along the Heugh, I got another view towards the priory and Saint Mary’s Church as well as of an active excavation site beside it.

Then, a wonderful view of Lindisfarne castle from atop the Heugh and then from the water’s edge at the end of the harbour pier.

I walked along the edge of the harbour beach where there was a jumble of boats, fishing gear, and storage sheds made from the overturned hulls of old herring fishing boats.

I walked towards the castle, taking photos as I approached.

 

Then I walked around towards the rear of the castle, on the way to visit a walled garden designed in 1911 by the Arts and Crafts garden designer Gertrude Jekyll.  The National Trust maintains the garden with Jekyll’s original planting schemes.  I sat on a bench to rest, thinking how nice it would be to have a walled garden.  I was getting tired, after such a full and exciting day, and was in a quiet, reflective mood.

 

I left the garden and turned to head back to the village. Boom! I heard thunder from across the way and saw dark grey clouds across the fields to my right and over the village.

I picked up my pace but wasn’t quite fast enough! The wind grew stronger and the rain started when I was only half way to the village, which luckily wasn’t too far away! I was wearing my rain jacket so up went my hood and I arrived at my accommodation not too wet. Straight upstairs, straight into bed, and the thunder boomed again and the rain lashed against my single-pained widows. One flash of lightening, more thunder, and the rain turned to hail. This was my view, cozy from my bed.

It was 5 pm. How can so much happen in a day? I started to read a very good novel, found earlier on a sharing shelf in the lounge, and an hour later took it with me to the Ship Inn where I had a light dinner and a pint of cider.  Then home to bed, more reading, and the cider and the wind and the sun and the water and the bare-footed crossing to Lindisfarne all combined to leave me feeling somewhat spent, yet fully replete. It was truly a magnificent last day of my Saint Cuthbert’s Way walk! Goodnight.