I woke up in Jedburgh to the sound of a steady rain outside. I lingered over breakfast and my packing, hoping it would start to let up, and then I decided to call a taxi to take me to the point where I had left Saint Cuthbert’s Way to join the Border Abbeys Way into town. That would eliminate three kilometers of uphill road walking, but would not be a “cheat” as I would not miss any of Saint Cuthbert’s Way. The taxi driver said that she gets “Americans and Australians” who ask her to drive them further along the Way, and they say, “You won’t tell anyone will you?” She laughed and said to me, “I tell them who would I tell? I don’t know anyone in [America or Australia]!”
All kitted up with my rain gear on, and happy to be walking, I regained Dere Street for a short uphill section before the path turned into a wood with views of the nearby fields.
The path alternated between stretches in woods and stretches along fields as I turned left and right and left and right, heading generally uphill in an easterly direction.
I crossed a stream over a solid wooden bridge, feeling gratitude for the people who created and maintain this wonderful trail, and then I followed a curving path up an exposed hill with the rain now being driven sideways into me by the blustery wind and the clouds scuttling quickly past the top of the hill.
Some of the wooded paths went through conifer plantations, mostly of pine, with lots of bracken ferns as the understory.
I walked up along the edge of this newly ploughed field and watched two tractors working on the opposite side of the field. Besides these two farmers, I did not see one person for the entire 12 km walk, until I began to arrive into the town of Morebattle, the site of my accommodation for the night.
I climbed up over a stone fence, and then followed the trail along the fence, waist-deep in tall wet grasses and nettles, towards a distant plantation that had a somewhat spooky air about it, in a Hans Christian Anderson sort of way.
But, the trail veered left instead of entering the wood, and carried on down a farm track and past beautiful fields with some now far-reaching views. It was approaching noon and the sky had finally started to lighten and brighten, thanks to the heroic efforts of the sun.
This view, below, across a beautiful field features Cessford Castle (a little indistinct) in the center of the photo.
The farm track descended to a paved road which which turned and then rose uphill in the direction of the castle which was built in the mid 15th century by the Ker family. Only 8 miles from the English border, it was built with defence in mind and some of the walls are nearly 4 meters thick! The castle was besieged several times in the 1500s, and then abandoned in 1607. Here are some photos I took as I walked up to the castle and then circled around it.
Unfortunately, these photos do not give any clue as to the strong, blustery and invigorating wind that was blowing atop the castle hill! I loved this old oak tree, which added to the drama of the scene, and I decided to name it The Cessford Oak.
This is my favourite photo of the day I think, of a field just below Cessford Castle and of the distant hills.
I said good bye to the castle behind me, and followed the road downhill.
Finally, after several kilometers of pleasant road walking I reached Morebattle, a very pretty town with a charming primary school.
And here’s my accommodation, the Temple Hall Inn, where I received a warm reception (that included a free half pint!) and a cozy room with a lovely view of the hills I would be walking in the next day. Till tomorrow then!
