Beaches and Boardwalks and Sky (Oh my!) – Exploring PEI’s Northern Shores, Postcards from Canada 2025

New London Range Rear Lighthouse and Beach, French River, Cavendish Beach and Dunelands Trail, North Rustico, Greenwich Dunes and Beach, Shipwreck Point Lighthouse, North Lake Harbour, East Point Lighthouse, Basin Head Provincial Park, Red Point Provincial Park and Beach

After a night of rain in my campsite at Cabot Beach, I set off to explore more of PEI’s beautiful countryside and glorious seascapes. My first destination was to visit the scenic Cape Tryon Lighthouse which is located atop red cliffs at the end of a narrow point, but the access road of red soil was wet with the night’s rain and I had read that drivers can get stuck in the slippery sticky mud of those roads. So, I carried on to the end of the paved Cape Road to visit my second planned stop, the New London Range Rear Lighthouse. I was thrilled to arrive at this surprising view!

Built in 1876, this historic wooden lighthouse was one of the few on PEI to have had a female keeper. Although it is sadly in need of a coat of fresh paint, it has a unique tapered design and is beautifully situated behind low dunes in an oasis of green meadow and adjacent marsh plants.

From there, I followed a trail over the dunes to arrive at a stunning beach with not another soul anywhere in sight.

There was a fresh breeze as I walked to a small point of sand where I stepped out for views of the luminous sea and sky, and then of red cliffs in the distance.

The cliffs beckoned so I continued on, curious about what there was to see around the corner. But, as I neared the point, tens of cliff swallows started to emerge from their nests and swirl about in the air, complaining loudly about my presence.

I respected their wishes and turned back,

but I was not unhappy as I had the pleasure of the return walk along that magnificent beach, now looking in towards New London Bay,

and then repeat views of the lighthouse in its beautiful meadowy setting.

A short drive later, I stopped at the colourful harbour of French River,

and I enjoyed the views from the hillside above the harbour where a riot of wildflowers stole my attention for a time.

I continued on to visit Cavendish Beach and to walk the Dunelands trail in Prince Edward Island’s National Park. This park encompasses a narrow strip, over 65 km long, of PEI’s northern shores and features red and white sand beaches, red sea cliffs, rolling dunes topped with marram grasses, streams, fresh water ponds, salt water marshes, and areas of forest. There are two campgrounds and many visitor facilities including over 50 kilometres of walking and biking trails. The nearby town of Cavendish, famous for its associations with Lucy Maud Montgomery’s “Anne of Green Gables” is tourist-central for the island. Fans of the book visit Green Gables Heritage Place, the Lucy Maud Montgomery Cavendish Homestead, Avonlea Village, and other Anne-themed attractions. The town and nearby area also feature all kinds of family amusements like a waterpark, go-cart races, arcades, miniature golf, and plenty of gift shops and places to eat. But, I avoided all of that! On a sunny day, Cavendish Beach is usually crowded with visitors, but on this cool and overcast morning it was relatively quiet. I walked out onto the wide boardwalk that crosses over the dunes and stopped to take in views of the long sandy beach.

I’d already had an amazing morning beach walk, so I retraced my steps and made my way to the Dunelands Trail and its boardwalk that floats over a freshwater pond.

I loved this view, at the foot of the boardwalk, looking out towards the dunes,

and halfway across the boardwalk I stopped for views back towards the attractive grey-shingled buildings of the Cavendish Beach Complex.

Beyond the boardwalk there was a pleasant wide path that was lined with fireweed, wild rose, and conifers, and it led to yet another boardwalk that crossed over a grassy expanse of clifftops to views of the eroding red sandstone cliffs to the west and east. Interpretive panels provided information about the geological and ecological history of the area, and about management strategies that are being implemented to help protect the dunes and slow the erosion of these northern shores.

I then drove east along the coast on the surprisingly very quiet Gulf Shores Parkway, a favourite with cyclists,

and I stopped randomly at one of its many pullouts to descend onto a long red-sand beach that was completely empty of visitors. There was a clear goal in sight at the far eastern end of the beach – a small sea stack. It was time for another walk!

Afterwards, I continued on to the town and harbour of North Rustico. Settled by Acadians in the late 1700s, this fishing village has several small museums and popular seafood restaurants, but I was attracted by yet another boardwalk that led for a kilometre along the edge of a placid bay from the town’s pier to the North Rustico Harbour Lighthouse.

Nearby was the Seagull’s Nest gift shop and I was drawn there by the wonderful sound of Celtic-inspired music. Brendon Peters, a retired fisherman and very talented spoons player, was playing his spoons while accompanied by instrumental versions of traditional tunes on a speaker. He was really good! My dad used to play the spoons, so I sat and enjoyed several songs and then we struck up a conversation, my first of the day. He later played another tune, “Ode to the North Rustico Fisherman” that was written by his mother and tells of the hard work and sacrifices made by he and his brothers as they earned their livings from fishing. I was hooked (pun intended), and so I decided to buy his CD as my souvenir of PEI. As well as Brendon’s spoons, the CD features local musicians, friends of his, who added their talents on piano, vocals, acoustic guitar, drums, and fiddle.

As I walked back along the bay towards town, the rain that had been threatening all day slowly started to fall so I decided to end my explorations and head back to camp. I greatly enjoyed the drive, back along the parkway and then on scenic Highways 6 and 20 where I loved crossing over the wide rivers at Bayview and Stanley Bridge and New London. Brendon’s music played on my CD player as I travelled west, and I didn’t mind the rain and grey skies at all. By the time I reached camp, though, the skies had darkened, the wind had picked up, and sounds of thunder could be heard so, sadly, no late-afternoon swim at Cabot Beach for me. I cooked my dinner in a campground shelter because of the wind, and now-heavy rain, and then I had a really early night which was fine because the next morning I woke early to decamp and begin my drive to the eastern end of PEI. The roads were nearly empty, under still-grey skies, with small smatterings of rain, and after some ninety minutes of driving I was the first car to arrive at the Greenwich Dunes parking lot. Part of the National Park, the Greenwich Dunes Trail is definitely a “must do” on PEI, and I was lucky to have the trail all to myself as I began the walk along a country road through what was once a farm owned for four generations by the Sanderson Family. Fields and forest, an expanse of bright pink fireweed, and dunes to my left between the land and the sea. – I loved it here!

Later, the trail led into the forest where interpretive panels described the local flora and fauna, and then it led onto a curving boardwalk through the forest and over “Grey Dunes” which are low and stable inland sand dunes where large mats of delicate lichens grow.

Beyond that, the boardwalk led out into the open and across an area of marsh that was packed thick with cattails as far as the eye could see. It was a thrill to step down and onto the 700 metre-long floating boardwalk that curves its way across Bowley Pond towards tall sand dunes.

What a place!

Here is a view back down over the beautifully-sinuous boardwalk after I’d climbed halfway up the dune.

And here was the beach after I’d crossed over the dune! Yet again I was on a spectacular long beach, with dramatic skies and the invigorating wind, and there was not a single person in sight! I decided to walk towards the east,

and after about a kilometre or two I turned for this view back, with my footprints the only ones visible on the sand.

Further on, I found a colourful kite, noisily rippling in the wind atop the dunes, that was trapped among plants, and I took some time to free it and about 20 metres of string so that it wouldn’t end up in the ocean. I continued to have the beach entirely to myself for the return walk, and then I climbed the staircase back up onto the dune where I couldn’t resist taking another photo of the floating boardwalk. As I crossed the boardwalk, I finally encountered another party, a family of three, from Quebec, and the son of about eight years old was very excited to accept the kite. I passed more walkers on the trail through the forest, and again along the fields of Sanderson’s Farm where some were stopping to take selfies amongst the fireweed as I had done. The last great and unexpected pleasure of my morning walk was finding an excellent patch of tasty wild raspberries. Joy!

From Greenwich Dunes, I made my way to Highway 16 to continue my journey towards the eastern end of PEI. En route, I stopped to visit the lighthouse at Shipwreck Point, but wind and a sweep of oncoming rain sent me scurrying back to my car after just a few quick pics.

I made another quick stop at the nearby Naufrage Harbour,

and I just had to stop here, by the side of the road at Priest Pond Creek, for these gorgeous and inspiring views.

I stopped again at North Lake Harbour,

and then I reached East Point Lighthouse with its excellent interior museum that provided information about the lighthouse’s history from 1867 to 1989 when it became automated. The last lighthouse keeper, Harry Harris, worked here from 1961-1989, and his family were direct descendants of shipwreck survivors aboard the San Domingo which foundered on the reef at East Point in 1822!

From East Point I made my way to Basin Head Provincial Park where I explored the facilities and walked a short distance on the beach. Normally busy with beachgoers on sunny days, the park was very quiet, with some visitors electing to visit the Fisheries Museum here, or to browse in the gift shop which I did for a few minutes. Others were placing their orders at the take out cafe and here I finally decided to order my first-ever lobster roll, planning to eat it under a picnic shelter in view of the sea. But, by the time the order was ready, the wind had decided to pick up and blow cold, and the clouds had finally decided to unleash all of their rain in a heavy downpour rather than in small fits and starts. I retreated to my car, post-haste, and drove just a few minutes away to park with a water view over the Basin Harbour as the rain lashed down on my Toyota.

It was fun! I was happy, dry, and protected, and the roll was delicious! Then, only a short time later, the squall was over and all was relatively calm as I settled into my campsite at the nearby Red Point Provincial Park. I had a fabulous site, with epic views of the sea and sky, and of the narrow beach below that stretched to the north and south.

As evening drew near, I was happy to take yet one more walk to end another wonderful day of PEI beaches and boardwalks and sky.

P.S. On the following day I would make a return trip to Basin Head Provincial Park (and explore other local attractions) under quite different conditions – bright sun and bright blue skies! Here’s the link to that post: https://christineswalkabout.com/2025/07/25/skipping-ahead-im-going-to-les-iles-de-la-madeleine/

Taking the Slow Roads on Beautiful PEI – Postcards from Canada, 2025

North Cape, Cedar Dunes Provincial Park, Tyne Valley, Malpeque Harbour, Cabot Beach Provincial Park

From my Cedar Dunes campground, near West Point on PEI, I made my way up the coast towards North Cape on the nicely quiet Highway 14. It was a cool, windy, and drizzly morning, but I was happy as I set off, past tall windmills,

and lovely sections of forest decorated with swaths of bright pink fireweed.

The sea was on my left, with farmhouses and fields between the road and the shore, and I liked when the road dipped down small hills to cross over slow lazy rivers.

By the time I reached Miminegash harbour the sky had mostly cleared and the wind had strengthened. All was calm in the inner harbour,

but at the narrow passage leading into the harbour, the wind was pushing tall rolling waves of sediment-filled water between the high metal walls of the channel.

This was the exciting view, to the north, of windswept waves rising onto a long sandy beach that was backed by low dunes.

I continued north along the coast and made another stop to view the tall dunes and beach at the community of Skinners Pond. Sadly, I didn’t remember until later in the day that the Stompin’ Tom Centre is located in Skinners Pond. Stompin’ Tom, a Canadian icon, was a favourite of my dad’s and of all us kids, and I will definitely make a visit there on my next trip to PEI.

I continued the drive and enjoyed it immensely. There was very little traffic and it was easy to pull over for photo stops whenever I wanted. Then, I arrived at North Cape where a forest of wind turbines were turning at speed and the lighthouse had a tall friend.

North Cape is where the reddish-brown waters of the Northumberland Straight meet the blue waters of the Gulf of St. Lawrence.

There is a natural rock reef, the longest in North America, that extends almost two kilometres offshore here, and at low tide one can walk out on it for about 800 metres, but today the tide was high.

There is a Wind Energy Interpretive Centre at the Cape, as well as tourist information, a gift shop, and a restaurant, but the day was too beautiful to spend even a moment inside, so I set out on the Black Marsh Nature trail, a 5.5 km return walk that led along the grassy tops of low red cliffs,

with great views back to the lighthouse, radio tower, and interpretive centre.

I sometimes wish that I worked with video rather than still photography, especially on such a day, as everything was moving! The wind was rippling wildly through the grasses and wildflowers, waves were crashing onto the shore, and the huge blades of the wind turbines were turning with great phwump phwump phwump sounds. It was fabulous!

The trail led away from the cliffs into a small section of forest and right amongst and below several of the tall turbines.

It then led back out to the cliff tops,

and later onto a series of boardwalks over a large expanse of raised peat bog known as the Black Marsh.

There were interpretive panels to help me identify some of the low bog plants that can be found here, including two lovely orchids. Clockwise from the top left are Grass Pink, cloud berry (also known as bake apple), bog cotton, Rose Pogonia, and Pitcher plant.

The trail continued a short distance past the bog to a viewing platform overlooking Elephant Rock, which no longer looks like an elephant after multiple storms have changed its shape. I’m not sure if the cormorants perched on the rock were enjoying the wind and the sea views as much as I was!

It was such a glorious place and I loved the return walk as much as the walk out. I had the entire trail, there and back, all to myself!

After North Cape I checked out the small town of Tignish, and then returned to my campsite at Cedar Dunes for a wonderful late-afternoon swim. Then, after my camp dinner, I returned to the beach as the sun was lowering,

and stayed until the sun set. What a perfect day!

The following morning I had only about 100 kilometres to drive from Cedar Dunes to my next campground at Cabot Beach Provincial Park, and I elected again to make my way there on slow and quiet secondary highways. Highway 12 was wonderful! It crossed the gorgeous Foxley River,

and passed meadows and fields and so many beautiful old farmhouses.

There were also historic wooden churches to admire such as (clockwise from left) the Freeland Presbyterian Church, St. John’s Anglican Church in Ellerslie, and the Bideford United Church.

I also came across the Bideford Parsonage which is a beautifully restored farmhouse from 1878 that has been turned into a museum of rural life on PEI during the late 19th century. Lucy Maud Montgomery lived here in 1894-95 when she taught at the nearby schoolhouse.

Continuing on Highway 12 I came to the great little town of Tyne Valley, and they were having their annual soapbox derby! I was happy to see lots of girls participating, and I thought that all of the young participants were quite brave as they were released from a ramp to speed down a rather steep hill! I admired their creative soapboxes,

and then enjoyed a stroll through the town where there was a bridge over the very pretty Trout River and many beautiful old homes. The Backwoods Burger brewery pub looked to be popular with motorcyclists out for the day, and there was a rather groovy old-fashioned diner in Dillons Convenience and Pizzeria. Another wonderful sight in town was of a beautifully restored 1927 Model T Ford, and its keys were in the ignition! (A reminder that you can click on any photo for a larger view.)

I continued on Highway 12 and loved every second of the drive. I was surprised to come across a large field of bright yellow canola, and plants by the roadside were fun to photograph.

Further down the road I came across St. Patricks Parish Church in Grand River. Built in 1839, this large Catholic Church featured a unique interior with balconies built both at the back of the church, for the choir, and along its sides. The architectural details were somewhat ornate, but the interior felt very serene and open with its lofty space, soft paint colours, and limited decor beyond the beautiful stained glass windows.

When Highway 12 met the much busier Highway 2, I quickly made my way to the pleasant town of Kensington where I spent a happy couple of hours out of the sun in the public library charging my electronics, downloading photos, perusing the “books for sale” shelf, and chatting with the librarian. Then, it was off to my campground at Cabot Beach Provincial Park, with a stop first at Malpeque Harbour where I enjoyed photographing the scenic sheds with their weathered windows and doors.

I got a great campsite, with good privacy and shade, and then headed out right away to Cabot Beach for a late-afternoon swim. A boardwalk led out onto the golden sand of a wide and very beautiful beach with warm shallow water. I had to walk out a long way before I could swim!

After my energizing time in the water, I walked along the sand to the red cliffs at the far western end of the beach,

with great views back.

And then I walked to the far eastern end of the beach where a dad and his son were fishing.

All along the walk there were splendid views out to the sea and across the Darnley Basin.

Back at camp, I decided that it was finally time to have my first (and ultimately the only!) sit-down restaurant dinner of my entire cross-Canada trip. (Dining out is the one place where I don’t greatly enjoy being alone when travelling solo, and it is also hard on the budget.) The librarian in Kensington had strongly recommended the Ship to Shore Restaurant in nearby Darnley so off I went, imagining that I would splurge on a lobster roll or other seafood dish, but in the end I ordered what she had ordered, a braised beef sandwich topped with pickled vegetables and fries. It was delicious!

The restaurant was relaxed and casual, with an open feel, and large doors opening out onto a deck. I took my time here, enjoyed my meal, and reflected on my day and my journey thus far. I was in PEI (!), with more wonderful travel along slow roads to come. 🙂

Letting Go of Chronology, and Jumping Ahead to Eastern PEI – Postcards from Canada

Panmure Island Provincial Park and Lighthouse, Sir Andrew Macphail Homestead, Point Prim Lighthouse, Cape Bear Lighthouse, Murray Harbour, and Guernsey Cove

I still have posts to write about the exceptionally beautiful Les Îles de la Madeleine. I loved, loved, loved it there. I spent six nights, and was planning to add additional nights, but on my second-to-last day a crown fell off of my tooth, and the closest dental appointment I could get was in Charlottetown PEI. I was sad to leave Les Îles without having seen all that I wanted to see, but I also felt happy to return to PEI. Something about this island really calls to me, and it feels like it could be home. I occasionally stop to photograph houses with “For Sale” signs! I was excited when my ferry from Les Îles began to sail along the eastern coast of PEI, and from the deck of the ship I was able to recognize the beaches and red cliffs of Basin Head, and then Red Point where I had camped, and then the lighthouse at Souris.

Once off the ferry, I drove directly south to Panmure Island Provincial Park in order to secure a good campsite, and I got a great one, large and nicely shaded. I am loving being outside so much (except for the mosquitoes, which thankfully aren’t too bad), and everything camp-wise tends to go very smoothly. I’m a pro now at this nomadic existence!

After settling in, and a quick lunch, I headed off to visit the beautiful Panmure Island Lighthouse which is the oldest wooden lighthouse on PEI.

Built in 1853, it has gabled windows and is four stories high. I toured the inside, and enjoyed the lines and angles created by the steep ladders and the lighthouse’s octagonal shape.

At the top there was a great view out to the causeway which connects Panmure Island to the rest of PEI . A long sand beach, backed by dunes, faces the open sea, and a red silty and sand beach is on the side facing St. Mary’s Bay.

I next headed to the beach for these views towards the lighthouse,

and later towards the red cliffs at the far south end of the beach.

Then, I had a wonderful afternoon at Panmure that I would repeat on each of my three days here: first, a long walk on the beach, then a swim in the sea (with its perfect temperature and rolling waves), then a peaceful dinner in a very quiet campground, and finally an evening walk. It was a good, slow-down kind of place to be.

The following day, I made the hour-long drive into Charlottetown and did not receive good news at the dentist. Afterwards, I wasn’t in the mood to deal with traffic and tour Charlottetown, so I decided to make my way back to Panmure by the secondary roads, following the coast as much as possible. I was waylaid, for a time, by a long call with a friend, next to this beautiful bay, which cheered me,

and then I carried on, thinking that I might visit the Orwell Historic Village, but I was diverted by a “Nature Trail” sign on the same road. I ended up at the Sir Andrew Macphail Homestead, the beautiful home of an influential, early twentieth-century PEI doctor, professor, and author. I toured the interior of the home, decorated with period-pieces, photographs, and art, but mostly I enjoyed the gardens, and the nature trail that lead down grassy paths to a forest walk along a brook. The yellow cut-leafed cone flowers were taller than me!

I continued on to visit the round lighthouse at Point Prim,

and along the way stopped to photograph lazy rivers, curving roads, and a field where the wheat was an electric mix of yellow and green.

Then, at camp, I had my beach walk, swim, dinner, and then an evening walk, this time along the beach of St. Mary’s Bay, near sunset.

The finale to the day was this brush stroke of pink cloud in the sky, above the dark trees, viewed from my camp chair.

On my last full day on the southeastern coast of PEI, I drove some new roads, and again stopped often at bridges to view the beautiful rivers.

I visited the Cape Bear Lighthouse, which I didn’t climb, but I enjoyed talking with the young student workers there about its history.

I next drove to the very pretty town of Murray Harbour, with its large and elegant heritage buildings and its riverside harbour.

This cozy shed charmed me and is open to all,

and I also enjoyed a long line of harbour-side storage sheds that were whimsically decorated in a medly of colours and styles. It seems like a creatively-inclined town!

I wandered slowly along the tree-lined Riverside Drive, looking at the pretty houses. It was peaceful and quiet, and I wanted to stretch out this last day on PEI. On the return to my car, I stopped on the bridge over the Murray River for final views upstream and then down, feeling a little melancholy at having to say goodbye.

I made one more stop, down to Guernsey Cove, where I had this red sand beach all to myself.

I returned to Panmure campground in the afternoon for one last long beach walk, and one last gorgeous and extra-long swim. The waves were bigger today (so fun!), and the wind was a bit cold but the water was just the right temperature. I met a woman, also playing in the waves, who loves to swim as much as I do. Originally from Peru, she went back and forth several times between BC and PEI, literally testing the waters. Though she was brave enough to swim in the very cold Pacific surf at Tofino multiple times, she decided that the PEI swimming suited her best. I would have to agree! Afterwards, a healthy camp dinner, laundry, a long conversation with my Quebecois neighbours, and a bit of writing. It was a good day, again, on PEI, and I can see why people return here summer after summer for their holidays. I will miss it, and hope to return. Thank you, Prince Edward Island, for all that you offered this traveller.

P.S. I still have at least one more PEI post to write, as well as posts from almost every other province (yikes!). Perhaps they’ll get written, perhaps not. As I’ve said before, wifi and power and time are limited, but it does feel good to record these memories, and to share these postcards from Canada.

P.P.S. For my family – there was an Acadian singer and musician performing on board my return ferry from Les Îles-de-la-Madeleine and she sang, “Dans ma Belle Petite Maison dans ma Vallée.” ❤️

Skipping Ahead – I’m Going to Les Iles-de-la-Madeleine!

Red Point Provincial Park, Souris Lighthouse and Beach, Sally’s Beach and Hike, Basin Head Provincial Park

This is my wonderful camping spot at Red Point Provincial Park on the east coast of Prince Edward Island!

I’ve seen seals in the water near to shore, and off shore a small group of gannets (one of my very favourite birds) dive at speed into the sea for their breakfast. This is my breakfast today – pancakes inspired by some Haskap berrries that I picked at a U-pick yesterday.

Yesterday, I also decided to visit Les Isles-de-la-Madeleine, a wind-swept archipelago of twelve islands formed of low red cliffs, dunes, and long spits of sand. It is located some 134 km north of PEI, and I will be on the 1:30 p.m. ferry today for the five hour journey. I have always wanted to visit there, and considered it when planning my drive across Canada, but I had decided that it would just be too much to add to this already very long trip. But, yesterday I was in the town of Souris, just south of here, to visit the lighthouse and beach,

and from the beach I saw the ferry from the isles coming into the harbour.

Hmmm. Maybe I should go? I continued south to the lovely, small, tucked away Sally’s Beach Provincial Park to have my picnic lunch and to walk a trail there. It was a red sand beach,

and the trail to the far point led first on a boardwalk, then along a mowed path, and then through a pleasing forest,

with peek-a-boo views of a large bay on one side, the rocky reef at the end of the point,

and then views back towards Sally’s beach.

By the time I had returned to Souris (after the fun U-pick in the warm afternoon sun), I had decided to go to Les Isles if I could arrange it. I used the town’s library to access the internet to organize sailings and my first few nights of camping, and to cancel my few Nova Scotia bookings. I was going! Then, gas, and groceries in town, and back to my lovely campground to struggle with WordPress and try to write a new PEI blog post (I didn’t get very far because of frustratingly poor wifi!). I absolutely love Prince Edward Island (I knew I would), and I am thinking of spending more time on the island when I return from Les Isles. It is rare for me to be impulsive during travel (I am usually 100 % organized), and it is a little disorienting, but also exciting!

Now, here are some photos from my visit yesterday morning to the wonderful Basin Head Provincial Park, located just a five minute drive from my Red Point campground. It is a very popular park and has both red and white sand beaches, red cliffs, a fisheries museum, gift shop, cafe, and ice cream shop. It is also known for its “singing sands”, and teenagers love to jump from the piers into the river outflow (or inflow depending on the tide).

I was the first person to arrive in the parking lot, and I loved the deserted feel of the place before the workers and families arrive. This is the beach and headland to the south of the piers,

and this is the spectacular beach to the north. I headed out in that direction,

with views back as I passed the empty lifeguard chairs.

I had the entire beautiful beach to myself, and I was just thrilled to be there with the sea and the sky, the wind, the waves, the sand, and the dunes.

I walked for almost two kilometres until I neared some shore birds ahead,

and then turned back as I didn’t want to disturb them. The walk back was just as beautiful and inspiring as the walk out had been!

And though I was mostly held rapt by the big open expanses, I also noticed lovely bits of art on the sand, created by nature. Sticks and seaweed, with shadows, and a feather…

The wind was wonderful, strong and warm,

and there was a good amount of surf that increased as I neared the end of my walk.

A few families had now arrived, and the life guards were setting up their stations – the yellow flag means strong swimmers only.

What an exceptional place, and I hope to return for a swim! I have loved every part of PEI that I visited, and I am anxious to share them with you, but that will have to wait until I return from Les Isles-de-la-Madeleine. So, goodbye from beautiful PEI, and bonjour Quebec et les isles!

Addendum: I am actually on the isles now! (Three days after starting this post, first with bad wifi, then with no access to wifi at all). It’s pouring rain out today, and I finally have good wifi here at my new campground! Tout le monde parle en français autour de moi, et Les Isles sont incroyable, merveilleux, formidable! A bientôt!)

Arriving on PEI – Postcards from Canada

Confederation Bridge, Miscouche Acadian Museum and Parish Church of Saint John the Baptist, West Point Harbour and Lighthouse, and Cedar Dunes Provincial Park

I have wifi at this campground (a small miracle), but no power. It has been next to impossible to create posts while on the road as I am camping almost every night. I had hoped to create posts for each province as I travelled, but that may have to be a winter project as there is no way I will ever catch up!

Thank you to those of you who have written to ask where I am and if I’m okay. All has gone mostly well (just too much driving), and I have been very happy to reach the Maritime Provinces. I loved New Brunswick, especially along the Fundy Coast, and I plan to visit more of New Brunswick when I begin the return trip west, after visiting Nova Scotia. I have decided to not visit Newfoundland and Labrador on this trip after all. I want to make a separate trip to that magnificent province (flying this time) when I am fresh and haven’t already travelled thousands and thousands of kilometres!

Today I crossed over the Confederation Bridge to Prince Edward Island!

That was exciting! What a beautiful bridge, and such an impressive feat of engineering. It was a tremendous experience to cross over that wide wide expanse of deep blue water. I thought of the Micmac peoples who have inhabited Prince Edward Island for over 10,000 years. They would have arrived by sea!

As I approached this low-lying island from near the end of the bridge, and saw the bank of eroding red sand at its edge, I thought, “It will never last! It is so ephemeral, and at the mercy of the sea!” But, once on land, its solidity (such as it is) made itself known. This province could easily rename itself Prince Edward Agricultural Island. Almost right away I was passing fields of shoulder-high corn, and acres of potatoes growing in the red soil. Grain was ripening, hay had just been cut, and lovely old farmhouses stole my heart (even those, and sometimes especially those, that need a little TLC).

I made a stop at the Miscouche Acadian Museum and learned about the long and difficult history of the Acadians, French colonial settlers who were displaced when the British eventually gained control of PEI, formerly known as L’Isle Saint Jean. Here is the very large and beautiful wooden Church of the Parish of Saint John the Baptist in Miscouche.

Near to the church, a quintet of older ladies were sitting and chatting in a shady park. I walked over to ask them if they thought that I should take a secondary road, Highway 11, rather than the principal road, to reach my campground at West Point. “Would it be more scenic?” The short stretch of highway begins just blocks from where they sat, but not one of them has ever been on that road! (Granted, two of them don’t drive.). I was flabbergasted, but didn’t show it of course. Which is more crazy, I wondered as I walked away – my travelling an incredibly ridiculous number of kilometres all of this way across Canada, or someone not having taken a scenic coastal road which is practically in their back yard? I guess the answer depends on who you are!

Of course, I took Highway 11, and it was a wonderful drive that passed many beautiful farms and small settlements, as well as the sea.

I rejoined the principal road leading west, and soon arrived at the small harbour of West Point,

and less than a kilometre from there was the excellent Cedar Dunes Provincial Park, my home for my first two nights on PEI. Here is my trusty Toyota in my site (Thank you Toyota for bringing me all this way!),

and here is the beach just a minute’s walk away!

And I had a swim! What a surprise and such a pleasure! I had assumed that it would be too cold to swim here in the sea, but the temperature was perfect, there were fun waves rolling in, and the buoyancy was divine. I’ll swim again tomorrow!

After a simple dinner in camp I went for a walk along the beach, to the lighthouse and beyond, finding pretty rocks as I went.

It was the kind of PEI summer day that I had long imagined, and I am looking forward to my days ahead here. I’ll say goodnight now, with this last photo of the view from my campsite, near sunset, as I sit and type these words.

Thank you for reading, and goodnight from Atlantic Canada.