Orkney and Shetland, June 2024

A Return to Lerwick, and the Noss National Nature Reserve by Sea and on Foot – Isleburgh Hostel, Seabirds and Seals Boat Trip, Noss Circular Walk

I enjoyed the return bus and ferry rides from Unst to Lerwick and arrived to my accommodation at the fabulous Isleburgh hostel. It is housed in an elegant mansion once owned by a wealthy herring merchant and is located atop a hill, not far from the harbour, and with a great view out over a park. It was a wonderful place to stay for my last two days in Lerwick.

In the afternoon I was booked on a boat tour with “Seabirds and Seals” that would travel from Lerwick, around the island of Bressay, and over to the island of Noss which is a National Nature Reserve. It was a beautiful afternoon and I arrived early to Victoria Pier and took several photos of the harbour and one of our boat.

We passed along the historic buildings of the harbour front, with commentary,

and then motored past the picturesque lighthouse located on Bressay. It was built in the 1850s by brothers David and Thomas Stevenson who also built the lighthouse at Muckle Flugga.

We stopped at a cliffside location to view a colony of Kittiwakes, and then we backed into a deep sea cave where black shags were nesting in dark crevices.

Then we passed through a sea arch, which is only possible on certain tides. That was fun!

The stratified and tilted sandstone cliffs of Bressay were very striking.

We then headed over to the island of Noss. The cliffs below its high Neap Hill are home to thousands of nesting seabirds including guillemots, fulmars and gannets.

As we travelled, a great skua flew overhead,

and later a gannet carrying a feather.

There were birds on the sea as well as in the air. Here is a quartet of guillemots,

and many more on the rocks!

Some of the guillemots are “bridled”, which means that they have a white eye line.

We also passed close to so many beautiful gannets.

At the base of the Neap Hill cliffs, on a series of ledges just above the sea,

there was a collection of young gannets with their immature plumage of patchy brown and white wing feathers.

It will take between four and five years for them to gain their adult plumage.

The commentator, Marie, was excellent and she told us many facts about all of the seabirds, but I was only half listening. I was so excited to see the gannets in such close proximity,

and as they flew all around and above us!

Eventually, we had to leave the Neap Hill colonies behind,

but I managed one last shot of a gannet who decided to follow us.

It was so wonderful to be on the sea and so close to the birds! We stopped for coffee and biscuits in a sheltered bay within sight of an old farmhouse. The house is now the home of two wardens who monitor the bird populations on Noss during the nesting season, between April and September. Marie said that the wardens will pick up walkers from the nearby island of Bressay and ferry them across to Noss where there is a circular walk around the island. I had already planned a hike for the following day but was now thinking that perhaps I’d revisit Noss instead, this time on foot.

As we began our return journey to Lerwick someone offered to take my picture. As you can see, I was very very happy to have splurged on this marvellous boat ride!

We said goodbye to Noss, and motored around to the far end of Bressay to enter busy Lerwick Harbour from the north side, past a large cruise ship and the NorthLink Ferry as well as many docks, boats, and a large boat building shed.

The next morning I decided that I would indeed walk the circular trail around Noss. The ferry to Bressay leaves from Lerwick harbour and the crossing takes less than ten minutes. I managed to get a ride across Bressay which saved me a six mile road walk! Below, one of the wardens is coming over on the inflatable to pick up some supplies, and then at 10 a.m. the other warden, a young woman came to pick up myself and three other walkers waiting on the Bressay shore.

She dropped us off and then zipped back across the water to pick up another four walkers. After that she gave us all a brief orientation in the small Visitors Centre. She showed us a map of the 8.25 km trail, pointed out where various bird colonies are and where we were most likely to see otters, and she requested that we stay on the coastal trail and not cross into the centre of the island where terns and great skuas nest.

I headed off, following the shoreline above a curve of beach,

and then along Noss’ low western shore.

As the trail swung around to the southern coast it began to rise up onto low cliffs and then onto higher cliffs that were sculpted into stacks and arches.

Puffins were on an off-shore stack, too distant for good photos,

but this fulmar was close and very peaceful looking despite being perched on the very edge of the cliff top!

Up ahead is a couple that was on the boat with me. They help give an idea of the scale of the cliffs.

This was a rather dizzying spot, with gannets nesting on the narrowest of ledges, and many soaring above the sea below.

I stepped as close to the edge as I dared, for this quick shot,

and then backed away and continued my climb up along the top of the cliffs towards the summit of Neap Hill.

Here are a view back, a view of the cairn atop Neap Hill, and a young gannet that soared past near enough for a photo.

The birds had definitely been easier to see from the boat, but I still loved this walk. After the excitement of being on the high cliffs, I relaxed and began the downhill trek along the eastern coast of Noss. There were views across Noss to Bressay and to Mainland, at least five geos to pass, and smaller pleasures as well – wispy tufts of cotton grass, pink ragged robin, and a lovely little wren.

Here is a view back towards Neap Hill,

and forward over the undulating land topped with sea pinks. Terns rose up in the air several times as I walked, and oyster catchers complained with their loud “pip pip pip” calls if I drew too close to their nests near the shore.

It was such a wonderful walk! I crossed over a stone fence on a stile, rose up and around a low hill to a northeast-facing beach, and then returned to the farmhouse where the warden gave me a ride back in the inflatable across the water to Bressay. Once on Bressay, I started the steep climb up the hill towards the parking area and then stopped for this view looking back down towards Noss. I was feeling envious of one of today’s fellow walkers who is a Shetlander and does this walk at least once every year.

At the top of the hill an older couple was sitting on a bench enjoying the view. He had wanted to cross to Noss but she is scared of boats. We chatted for a long time and I caught a ride back with them to the ferry terminal for the trip back to Lerwick, luckily avoiding the six mile road walk yet again! I took a few photos of the harbour from the ferry – a tall ship (the Christian Radich from Oslo) was now docked at Victoria pier!

I began my walk back to my hostel and noticed that there was no one at the “Welcome to Shetland” sign! Each time I had passed it on previous days it was mobbed by cruise ship passengers getting their photos taken but now it was free for me to take a selfie. It was my last day in Lerwick, with only three days left of my time in Shetland, and I was already feeling a little sad that my time in the Northern Isles was nearing its end.

But I also felt extremely grateful, and excited to travel to my next destination where I would see one of Shetland’s most beautiful sights, St. Ninian’s Isle and its golden sand tombolo. I was so happy with my day, and happy to greet the next. Thank you for travelling with me on this journey. 🙂

Orkney and Shetland, June 2024

Back to Kirkwall and on to Shetland! – Churchill Barriers, Italian Chapel, Ferry Mishap, Lerwick Heritage Walk

It was a beautiful day when I left Sandy, full of sunshine and with a warm breeze. It was the first day since arriving on Orkney that I didn’t have to wear my rain pants to cut the wind or protect me from showers! I said goodbye to my hostel and bike and took a few photos while I waited for my ferry to arrive.

Kirkwall too looked better in the sun! I had planned a “do nothing” day, except for a few chores (laundry, groceries), and getting to my hostel.

I spent a quiet evening and read up on the Churchill Barriers (my outing for the following day), and the vital role played by Orkney in both of the World Wars. Unfortunately the next day dawned wet and very windy (again!), but by this time I was getting quite used to it! I took a bus south from Kirkwall and got off just before the first barrier. During the First World War, many old ships and disused fishing vessels had been sunk in the narrow channels between small islands that lead into Scapa Flow harbour, the main base for the British Royal Navy, to prevent enemy ships from entering the harbour. However, in the early days of WWII, a German U-47 submarine managed to slip undetected into Scapa Flow and sink the Royal Oak, killing 835 of its crew of 1,234. Stronger defences were needed so Churchhill, who was then First Lord of the Admiralty, ordered the construction of barriers to block the channels. Four were built out of quarried rock and huge blocks of concrete. I walked over the first barrier, from Mainland over to the small island of Lamb Holm.

Here is the much-visited Italian Chapel on Lamb Holm. It was built by Italian prisoners of war who were imprisoned on Orkney to build the barriers. They had requested permission to build an Italian-styled Catholic chapel for worship and to remind them of home. The small chapel has a baroque facade,

but it was built out of two pre-fab military huts.

A prisoner by the name of Domico Chiocchetti took the lead in the creation of the church, and he painted all of the frescoes in the interior. Scrap metal was used to create the ornate gate and chandeliers, and a suspension spring was used as the base for the baptismal font. Chiocchetti returned to Italy after the war, and in 1960 he was invited to visit Orkney. On that visit he brought with him carved wooden stations of the cross to add to the nave of the church.

I walked across Lamb Holm to reach the second barrier. Here I could see some of the scuttled ships in the shallow water.

I then crossed the small island of Glimps Holm to reach the third barrier. Just before the barrier there was a staircase that led down to a peaceful beach where I stopped for a short rest before crossing. There were even more wrecks visible here in the water.

Here is a view looking back over the third barrier as I climbed a hill on the next island, Burray.

I walked almost as far as the fourth barrier, but when I reached a bus stop I decided to head back to Kirkwall. I was a little tired from the wind and rain, and there was almost no shoulder to walk on, if any in some places, and also there was a fair amount of traffic. I was glad that I had walked the three barriers, but also glad to return to Kirkwall and my hostel. The Kirkwall Hostel was excellent, and though checkout that morning had been at 10, I was welcome to stay all day and use their kitchen, dining room, and lounge, until 11 p.m. when I would head to the NorthLink Ferry terminal for my 11:45 p.m. sailing to Lerwick, Shetland. Thank you Kirkwall Hostel!

On to Shetland!

I had decided to splurge on a cabin for the overnight sailing to Shetland in order to arrive in Lerwick rested and ready for a full day of sightseeing. I took this photo of happy me, and fifteen minutes later I was already in bed, tucked in and ready for a good sleep. The ferry crosses often very rough waters as it travels on the North Sea, but our passage was relatively calm. I liked the motions of the ship – it felt like being rocked in a cradle, safe and warm.

But then later, on a visit to my ensuite in the pitch dark, and still half-asleep, the ship tilted and I tilted too and started to fall over. I grabbed for where I thought the sink was but caught only air. There was no way to right myself and I fell down hard onto my hip and shoulder in the tiled shower. Ow!! I was shocked, hurt, upset, and angry with myself, and also worried about my hip and the rest of my trip and all of the walks that I had planned to do. No more happy me!

We docked in Lerwick and I limped off of the ship very much in pain and still upset with myself. Luckily, I was able to get on a bus right at the terminal and get off less than half a block to my accommodation where I had arranged to drop off my big backpack. It was too early to check in of course, at 8 a.m., and I didn’t know where to go to just sit, so I headed off on a modified walk from what I had originally planned for the morning. I made my way slowly and gingerly along a paved path, with lovely and diverting views of the sea, in an area of Lerwick called Da Sletts, on my way to visit the Clickimin Broch.

The broch sits on a promontory in Loch Clickimin.

Although painful, I felt like it was good for me to move so I kept to my plan of walking around the small loch. Luckily, there were well-placed benches along the way!

This is the approach to the Clickimin Broch which is encircled by an outer defensive wall.

Well-preserved, the Iron Age broch was built on a site that has been occupied since at least the Bronze Age.

It is a really impressive broch, and beside and around it are the remains of other dwellings. A wooden set of steps in the interior enabled viewing of the staircase that is built between an inner and outer wall. This feature is typical of Iron Age brochs.

After visiting the broch, I was able to check in very early to my accommodation. Thank you Solheim guest house! After several hours of rest, I set out to continue my walk and explore Lerwick. My first stop was the 19th century St Magnus Church. Quiet and peaceful, I sat and admired the angled beams of the wooden roof – the architecture of the church reminded me somewhat of a Viking hall.

I proceeded down the hill to the stone-flagged Commercial Street on the waterfront. Here there were many large stone buildings that were storehouses, shops, homes, and loading docks for Lerwick’s fish and wool merchants in the 18th and 19th centuries.

The most famous of these buildings in Lerwick is “The Lodberrie” which is the house owned by Jimmy Perez in the “Shetland” crime drama series. Lodberrie comes from an old Norse term for a place to load and unload a boat.

Nearby is the small Bains Beach which also often features in the series “Shetland.”

To the left (below) is the Old Tollbooth, built in 1776, which was originally home to the Sheriff Court and Prison. Apparently, tunnels ran beneath many of the lodberries in order to evade the customs and excise men.

I continued along the busy harbour-front street, now called Esplanade. Three cruise ships were in Lerwick harbour on this day and tourists were strolling along or hailing taxis or waiting in lines for large coach buses to collect them.

I rose up the hill a few blocks to visit the remains of Fort Charlotte which was built in 1653, by order of Cromwell. Dutch and Spanish ships had been warring over access to Shetland’s rich fish stocks and Cromwell wanted to impose English claim on the fishing grounds. Success was limited however and throughout the 18th century fleets from Holland, France, Denmark, Prussia, and Spain continued to fish in Shetland’s waters.

I next walked to the area known as Hay’s Dock which was the centre of Lerwick’s massive herring industry in the 19th century. Fishing vessels landed with their holds full and the fish were processed here and packed into barrels of salt for export. The area was filled with docks, warehouses, workshops, cooperages, smithies, sawmills and shipyards. This is now where the world-class Shetland Museum and Archives are located. They have incorporated modern architecture with historic warehouses, and as well as displaying artefacts relating to Shetland from pre-history to the present, they also showcase art installations and have a theatre, cafe, and multiple seating areas and meeting rooms.

By this time, I was very tired and my leg and hip were quite sore so unfortunately I took in very little at the museum. A few things did catch my eye as they related to some of the places that I would be visiting in Shetland: the silver bowls and brooches of Celtic design date from the 700s and were found hidden beneath a church on St Ninian’s isle, possibly for safekeeping from Viking raids; the beautiful image of a horse, etched into stone, is of Viking origin; and the document is a Purchase of Land, dated 1360, from the northern isle of Unst, in which “Markus Gudbrandsson sells the island of Uyea to Herdis Thorvaldsdotter, a local heiress”.

I left the museum and took this photo of Mareel, also located at Hay’s Dock. It is Lerwick’s modern performance, arts, and education centre for music, film and theatre.

I slowly wandered my way back along the shopping district on Commercial Street,

and then climbed up several narrow lanes to the district of Hillhead and my accommodation on King Harald Street. I settled in for an evening and night of rest, and tried to be optimistic about the days ahead. Looking on the bright side, despite my ferry mishap and injury, I had acquainted myself with Lerwick, and I was very happy to be in Shetland!