Beaches and Boardwalks and Sky (Oh my!) – Exploring PEI’s Northern Shores, Postcards from Canada 2025

New London Range Rear Lighthouse and Beach, French River, Cavendish Beach and Dunelands Trail, North Rustico, Greenwich Dunes and Beach, Shipwreck Point Lighthouse, North Lake Harbour, East Point Lighthouse, Basin Head Provincial Park, Red Point Provincial Park and Beach

After a night of rain in my campsite at Cabot Beach, I set off to explore more of PEI’s beautiful countryside and glorious seascapes. My first destination was to visit the scenic Cape Tryon Lighthouse which is located atop red cliffs at the end of a narrow point, but the access road of red soil was wet with the night’s rain and I had read that drivers can get stuck in the slippery sticky mud of those roads. So, I carried on to the end of the paved Cape Road to visit my second planned stop, the New London Range Rear Lighthouse. I was thrilled to arrive at this surprising view!

Built in 1876, this historic wooden lighthouse was one of the few on PEI to have had a female keeper. Although it is sadly in need of a coat of fresh paint, it has a unique tapered design and is beautifully situated behind low dunes in an oasis of green meadow and adjacent marsh plants.

From there, I followed a trail over the dunes to arrive at a stunning beach with not another soul anywhere in sight.

There was a fresh breeze as I walked to a small point of sand where I stepped out for views of the luminous sea and sky, and then of red cliffs in the distance.

The cliffs beckoned so I continued on, curious about what there was to see around the corner. But, as I neared the point, tens of cliff swallows started to emerge from their nests and swirl about in the air, complaining loudly about my presence.

I respected their wishes and turned back,

but I was not unhappy as I had the pleasure of the return walk along that magnificent beach, now looking in towards New London Bay,

and then repeat views of the lighthouse in its beautiful meadowy setting.

A short drive later, I stopped at the colourful harbour of French River,

and I enjoyed the views from the hillside above the harbour where a riot of wildflowers stole my attention for a time.

I continued on to visit Cavendish Beach and to walk the Dunelands trail in Prince Edward Island’s National Park. This park encompasses a narrow strip, over 65 km long, of PEI’s northern shores and features red and white sand beaches, red sea cliffs, rolling dunes topped with marram grasses, streams, fresh water ponds, salt water marshes, and areas of forest. There are two campgrounds and many visitor facilities including over 50 kilometres of walking and biking trails. The nearby town of Cavendish, famous for its associations with Lucy Maud Montgomery’s “Anne of Green Gables” is tourist-central for the island. Fans of the book visit Green Gables Heritage Place, the Lucy Maud Montgomery Cavendish Homestead, Avonlea Village, and other Anne-themed attractions. The town and nearby area also feature all kinds of family amusements like a waterpark, go-cart races, arcades, miniature golf, and plenty of gift shops and places to eat. But, I avoided all of that! On a sunny day, Cavendish Beach is usually crowded with visitors, but on this cool and overcast morning it was relatively quiet. I walked out onto the wide boardwalk that crosses over the dunes and stopped to take in views of the long sandy beach.

I’d already had an amazing morning beach walk, so I retraced my steps and made my way to the Dunelands Trail and its boardwalk that floats over a freshwater pond.

I loved this view, at the foot of the boardwalk, looking out towards the dunes,

and halfway across the boardwalk I stopped for views back towards the attractive grey-shingled buildings of the Cavendish Beach Complex.

Beyond the boardwalk there was a pleasant wide path that was lined with fireweed, wild rose, and conifers, and it led to yet another boardwalk that crossed over a grassy expanse of clifftops to views of the eroding red sandstone cliffs to the west and east. Interpretive panels provided information about the geological and ecological history of the area, and about management strategies that are being implemented to help protect the dunes and slow the erosion of these northern shores.

I then drove east along the coast on the surprisingly very quiet Gulf Shores Parkway, a favourite with cyclists,

and I stopped randomly at one of its many pullouts to descend onto a long red-sand beach that was completely empty of visitors. There was a clear goal in sight at the far eastern end of the beach – a small sea stack. It was time for another walk!

Afterwards, I continued on to the town and harbour of North Rustico. Settled by Acadians in the late 1700s, this fishing village has several small museums and popular seafood restaurants, but I was attracted by yet another boardwalk that led for a kilometre along the edge of a placid bay from the town’s pier to the North Rustico Harbour Lighthouse.

Nearby was the Seagull’s Nest gift shop and I was drawn there by the wonderful sound of Celtic-inspired music. Brendon Peters, a retired fisherman and very talented spoons player, was playing his spoons while accompanied by instrumental versions of traditional tunes on a speaker. He was really good! My dad used to play the spoons, so I sat and enjoyed several songs and then we struck up a conversation, my first of the day. He later played another tune, “Ode to the North Rustico Fisherman” that was written by his mother and tells of the hard work and sacrifices made by he and his brothers as they earned their livings from fishing. I was hooked (pun intended), and so I decided to buy his CD as my souvenir of PEI. As well as Brendon’s spoons, the CD features local musicians, friends of his, who added their talents on piano, vocals, acoustic guitar, drums, and fiddle.

As I walked back along the bay towards town, the rain that had been threatening all day slowly started to fall so I decided to end my explorations and head back to camp. I greatly enjoyed the drive, back along the parkway and then on scenic Highways 6 and 20 where I loved crossing over the wide rivers at Bayview and Stanley Bridge and New London. Brendon’s music played on my CD player as I travelled west, and I didn’t mind the rain and grey skies at all. By the time I reached camp, though, the skies had darkened, the wind had picked up, and sounds of thunder could be heard so, sadly, no late-afternoon swim at Cabot Beach for me. I cooked my dinner in a campground shelter because of the wind, and now-heavy rain, and then I had a really early night which was fine because the next morning I woke early to decamp and begin my drive to the eastern end of PEI. The roads were nearly empty, under still-grey skies, with small smatterings of rain, and after some ninety minutes of driving I was the first car to arrive at the Greenwich Dunes parking lot. Part of the National Park, the Greenwich Dunes Trail is definitely a “must do” on PEI, and I was lucky to have the trail all to myself as I began the walk along a country road through what was once a farm owned for four generations by the Sanderson Family. Fields and forest, an expanse of bright pink fireweed, and dunes to my left between the land and the sea. – I loved it here!

Later, the trail led into the forest where interpretive panels described the local flora and fauna, and then it led onto a curving boardwalk through the forest and over “Grey Dunes” which are low and stable inland sand dunes where large mats of delicate lichens grow.

Beyond that, the boardwalk led out into the open and across an area of marsh that was packed thick with cattails as far as the eye could see. It was a thrill to step down and onto the 700 metre-long floating boardwalk that curves its way across Bowley Pond towards tall sand dunes.

What a place!

Here is a view back down over the beautifully-sinuous boardwalk after I’d climbed halfway up the dune.

And here was the beach after I’d crossed over the dune! Yet again I was on a spectacular long beach, with dramatic skies and the invigorating wind, and there was not a single person in sight! I decided to walk towards the east,

and after about a kilometre or two I turned for this view back, with my footprints the only ones visible on the sand.

Further on, I found a colourful kite, noisily rippling in the wind atop the dunes, that was trapped among plants, and I took some time to free it and about 20 metres of string so that it wouldn’t end up in the ocean. I continued to have the beach entirely to myself for the return walk, and then I climbed the staircase back up onto the dune where I couldn’t resist taking another photo of the floating boardwalk. As I crossed the boardwalk, I finally encountered another party, a family of three, from Quebec, and the son of about eight years old was very excited to accept the kite. I passed more walkers on the trail through the forest, and again along the fields of Sanderson’s Farm where some were stopping to take selfies amongst the fireweed as I had done. The last great and unexpected pleasure of my morning walk was finding an excellent patch of tasty wild raspberries. Joy!

From Greenwich Dunes, I made my way to Highway 16 to continue my journey towards the eastern end of PEI. En route, I stopped to visit the lighthouse at Shipwreck Point, but wind and a sweep of oncoming rain sent me scurrying back to my car after just a few quick pics.

I made another quick stop at the nearby Naufrage Harbour,

and I just had to stop here, by the side of the road at Priest Pond Creek, for these gorgeous and inspiring views.

I stopped again at North Lake Harbour,

and then I reached East Point Lighthouse with its excellent interior museum that provided information about the lighthouse’s history from 1867 to 1989 when it became automated. The last lighthouse keeper, Harry Harris, worked here from 1961-1989, and his family were direct descendants of shipwreck survivors aboard the San Domingo which foundered on the reef at East Point in 1822!

From East Point I made my way to Basin Head Provincial Park where I explored the facilities and walked a short distance on the beach. Normally busy with beachgoers on sunny days, the park was very quiet, with some visitors electing to visit the Fisheries Museum here, or to browse in the gift shop which I did for a few minutes. Others were placing their orders at the take out cafe and here I finally decided to order my first-ever lobster roll, planning to eat it under a picnic shelter in view of the sea. But, by the time the order was ready, the wind had decided to pick up and blow cold, and the clouds had finally decided to unleash all of their rain in a heavy downpour rather than in small fits and starts. I retreated to my car, post-haste, and drove just a few minutes away to park with a water view over the Basin Harbour as the rain lashed down on my Toyota.

It was fun! I was happy, dry, and protected, and the roll was delicious! Then, only a short time later, the squall was over and all was relatively calm as I settled into my campsite at the nearby Red Point Provincial Park. I had a fabulous site, with epic views of the sea and sky, and of the narrow beach below that stretched to the north and south.

As evening drew near, I was happy to take yet one more walk to end another wonderful day of PEI beaches and boardwalks and sky.

P.S. On the following day I would make a return trip to Basin Head Provincial Park (and explore other local attractions) under quite different conditions – bright sun and bright blue skies! Here’s the link to that post: https://christineswalkabout.com/2025/07/25/skipping-ahead-im-going-to-les-iles-de-la-madeleine/

Starting from the Middle, Ontario Part I – Postcards from Canada

I guess that I have finally decided to continue with this newest journey, seeing as I am now in Ottawa! I had many reservations about doing a cross-Canada drive before I started out, and those reservations and worries have dogged me since I left Vancouver: I’ve been worried about the long driving distances, the wear and tear on my dear Toyota, the cost of gas and accommodations (although I am camping on most nights, many campgrounds have become quite pricey), the vagaries of the weather (too hot, too cold), the bugs, etc., etc. I have considered turning back west multiple times a day, pretty much every day, as of this writing, even though I passed the geographic centre of Canada, located a short distance east of Winnipeg, many days ago.

But, each morning, despite my misgivings (and a few panicked calls to Brent), I continued to head East, resulting in my arrival here in Ottawa! I had originally planned to begin posting about my cross-Canada trip when in Winnipeg, but I held off because I still wasn’t certain that I wasn’t going to turn around and head back home. So, I am finally making a start with this first post, “Ontario – Part I”, but I don’t know how often I’ll be able to post as I have little access to wifi as I travel. We’ll see how it goes!

Whiteshell Provincial Park – Falcon Beach Campground, Manitoba, to Kakabeka Falls Provincial Park, Ontario, 531 kilometres

Shortly before leaving Manitoba, I lost the prairie, with its far-reaching, expansive, beautiful-sky views. The road was now bordered by trees, and would continue that way for many hundreds and hundreds of kilometres across Ontario. Luckily, that monotony would be interrupted often by quick glimpses (as I drove on by) of pretty lakes, beautiful marshes perfect for moose, and wide and impressive rivers.

On this first day in Ontario, there was a mix of sunny skies, and some very heavy afternoon thunder showers. I drove mostly in silence, but I also listened to CDs – Elton John, Neil Young, Van Morrison, and Abba were good company on the road. A highlight of the day was the sighting of a mother moose and her calf feeding by the side of the highway, and a short while later I reached Kakabeka Falls Provincial Park, my stop for the night. I viewed the impressive falls,

and I walked the trail along the top of the gorge, with views back upriver.

The trail I was on was part of a portage route used for centuries by the Ojibwa, and later by the fur traders of the North West Company as they ventured westward from Fort William on the shores of Lake Superior (near present-day Thunder Bay.)

Kakabeka Falls to Pukaskwa National Park (342 km)

The next day I was back on Highway 17, heading east, despite having slept poorly and feeling strongly that I should head west instead! I made my first stop just past Thunder Bay at the Terry Fox Memorial which is located just west of where Terry had to end his Marathon of Hope due to a return of cancer, this time in his lungs. He is a hero of mine, and I always took time in my teaching, when it was close to our school Terry Fox runs, to impress upon my students how strong, courageous, humble, and determined this young man was, and how he contributed so much to our country and to the fight against cancer. He ran 5,373 km across Canada – nearly a marathon a day for 143 straight days – and since his run hundreds of millions of dollars have been raised for cancer research. I was happy to see others stopped there as well.

I continued on, with peeks of Lake Superior as Highway 17 travelled sometimes close to the great lake and sometimes farther from its shores, up and around hills, and past many small lakes, marshes, streams and rivers. It was Canada Day, and I listened to some of my Canadian CDs (Neil Young (again), Joni Mitchell, and Spirit of the West), and I also tuned in to CBC radio for their coast-to-coast coverage of Canada Day events, including some of the performances being held at the Parliament Buildings in Ottawa. It was a good day of driving, and a highlight was seeing another moose – a female who crossed the highway about 300 metres ahead of me, surprisingly graceful on her incredibly long legs.

I had a reservation for the night (the first of 3) at the Agawa Bay campground in Lake Superior Provincial Park, but I had read positive reviews about Pukaskwa National Park which has a FCFS campsite, and many trails, so I took the access road and 15 km later I was able to get a great campsite and I knew that I wanted to stay there. It was such a wonderful park, with iconic and beautiful Canadian Shield, “Group of Seven”, scenery – rugged rocky headlands, off-shore islands, dramatic pines, three long curving beaches of golden sand,

and the seemingly endless expanse of Lake Superior.

The vegetation was gorgeous as well with many low-growing shrubs, mosses, and lichens,

and also wildflowers that were new to me. Yellow-blooming blue bead lillies, and tiny pink twinflowers, grew in areas of shade,

and I also met (clockwise from top left) bunchberrry, Labrador tea, Canada anemone, encrusted saxifrage (an Arctic plant that is able to grow this far south because of the cool conditions created by the massive amount of water in Lake Superior), and wild rose.

Three trails led directly from the campground and the Visitors Centre, and I connected all three to hike a total of about 8 kilometres. I was excited to find the iconic National Park red chairs atop a headland above Hattie Cove,

and I marvelled at the shapes of the ancient rocks, sculpted by glaciers, waves, and wind.

It was a truly marvellous park, and my favourite stop in Ontario. Thank you Pukaskwa!

Pukaskwa National Park to Lake Superior Provincial Park, Agawa Bay Campground – 276 km

The next day was a shorter driving day enlivened with views of lake, after lake, after river, after lake. Very scenic. Unfortunately, driving on HIghway 17 at speed, with other cars behind and not much of a shoulder, makes it very difficult to stop for photos. Fog had rolled in over Lake Superior as I entered the provincial park, and made for this atmospheric photo when I stopped at Old Woman Bay.

I continued on to Agawa Bay campground, at the far southern end of the park, and found my campsite with its view, across the camp road, of Lake Superior.

The fog came and went all day as I strolled the long beach, searched for pretty rocks, spent time at the Visitor Centre, and read an entire book. I broke up my reading sessions with small walks on the beach, and I was drawn there again to watch a long-lasting and beautiful sunset.

The next day, I drove back west to access several park hikes that I was interested in. First there was the short 500 m trail to the Agawa Rock where there are 150-400 year-old pictographs of animals, canoes, and supernatural creatures, painted with red ochre by the Ojibwa. Viewing the pictographs involves walking along a narrow slanted ledge below a rock face, and I found that my hiking boots were slippery on the very smooth rock. I was alone there, so I reluctantly decided against taking those last few steps to view the art.

Next, I drove to the trailhead for the Pinguisibi Trail which follows the Sand River for 3 km upstream, past a series of falls and serene stretches of river.

It was a wonderful trail, full of roots and rocks and hard packed soil, in the shade of trees and with the rush and roar of the river alongside. But, I was alone again, with no other cars in the parking area, and I was concerned about the possibility of meeting a bear. I kept up a nice loud silly and cheerful monologue, “Go away bear! I have bear spray but I really don’t want to use it!”, but after about 2 km, as I got further from the trailhead, I decided that I had best not go on. I turned back reluctantly, and of course passed a pair of hikers about halfway back. Oh well! My next stop was beautiful Katherine Cove where I had planned to have lunch,

but the highway was close and interrupted the peace so I returned back to camp. Feeling somewhat disappointed with my morning, I made lunch, read again for a while, revisited the Visitors Centre, and then decided to do the 3.2 km lakeside trail that led from the campground to the mouth of the Agawa River. My expectations were low, even though a young park interpreter had said that the trail was “pretty”. It was wonderful! And definitely very pretty, along an old road and then a sandy trail with grasses, flowers, birch trees, and tall, very old white pines.

I saw bunch berrry and twin flowers again, as well as a hardy plant with tiny yellow flowers growing in pure sand, orange hawkweed, and (wow) pink lady’s slipper!

Agawa Bay Campground to Lake Grundy Provincial Park – 516 km

This was a long day of driving, with a section of freeway that I hadn’t expected, just as I was beginning to feel tired. I made a quick stop at the French River, which I had been excited to see as it was an important part of an historic canoe route, along with the Ottawa and Mattawa Rivers and Lake Nipissing, that connected settlements on the St. Lawrence with the upper Great Lakes and the far West. The route was used by indigenous travellers, by the voyageurs, and by the great explorers Mackenzie and Thompson. The Visitor’s Centre was closed by the time I arrived, and despite my fatigue I began a trail walk, but it was buggy and I quickly decided to retrace my steps, take a quick photo of the river,

and continue on to my next campsite at Grundy Lake Provincial Park, not far distant, and luckily accessed on a quiet and slow highway.

Grundy Lake Provincial Park actually has four lakes, swimming beaches, and trails to hike so I had booked two nights here. I arrived hot and sweaty (so humid! 37 with the humidex), and should have gone for a swim, but I chose a shower instead and the water was really hot. Aaargh! The following morning, I woke early and set off to hike the short Swan Lake trail. It was an auspicious start as the trail led right away onto a floating boardwalk over a beautiful small lake with irises and pond lilies, a beaver lodge, and gorgeous rocks and trees all around.

But, after I crossed the boardwalk and entered the forest the black flies and deer flies began to swarm me. I probably should have turned back, but I continued on the 1.5 km trail at a faster walk, then a jog, then a quick stop to break off a branch of leaves to use as a switch, then a bit of a run, then a quick stop for another switch for my other hand, then a full run to get out of there, switching those branches back and forth around my head like a crazy person. I was hot, bothered, sweaty, and highly irritated, and it wasn’t yet nine in the morning! How would I spend the entire day here? And, the next day of driving was going to be a long one, so I decided to forgo my second night of camping at Grundy Lake to travel to North Bay, about two hours away, for a hotel night of AC and electricity, clean sheets and wifi. It was a good decision, with a lovely drive along quiet roads,

and a long stop in the pretty town of Callander, on Lake Nippising,

where I spent time in the welcoming library while I did laundry in the laundromat next door. The day was a welcome break from camping and the heat.

North Bay to Fitzroy Provincial Park – 313 km

A rainy day of travel, off and on, with just a few stops along the highway including here, for obvious reasons,

and here, at Deux Rivières, where the Ottawa and Maganasipi rivers meet.

Then, on the latter half of the day’s journey, the terrain changed to the rich farmland of the wide Ottawa valley, with its large dairy farms and fields of corn. The day grew very warm and muggy, the traffic increased as I got closer to Ottawa, and suddenly there was freeway driving and a missed turn. Thank goodness for the Google Maps lady who got me back on the right road to arrive at Fitzroy Provincial Park, located on the Ottawa River. I had planned to swim here, but the beach was incredibly busy with families and groups large and small seeking an escape from the heat on a Sunday afternoon (I took the least “crowded looking” photo I could).

I returned to my campsite, hot, sweaty, tired, and despondent to mope a bit (I don’t do well in the heat). But then, I put on my bathing suit and returned to the beach, determined to at least put my feet in. The water was cool, and I waded in, and then swam, out past the roped off area and the busyness, to better views of trees across the river and clouds moving across the sky. I was swimming in the Ottawa River, so I guessed that I was likely going to finish this drive across Canada…

Thank you for reading! 🙂