Glorious Hillside Hikes from Lagada, Amorgos – Greece, Spring 2025

Lagada to Tholaria and Ancient Aegiali Hike, Lagada to the Monastery of Agios Ioannis Theologos Hike, Cliffside Agia Triada, and Aegiali Bay, Beach, and Village

I travelled once again in Dina’s taxi, this time from the village of Chora, Amorgos, to the village of Lagada, located about thirty minutes north, and located on a hillside overlooking Aegiali and its bay and valley. I was again very lucky to have an early check in, at yet another fabulous accommodation, Armonia Studios. This was my charming room with an excellent kitchenette and private balcony!

I had shopped for my groceries before leaving Chora as the following day was Easter, so after dropping everything off I headed out right away on a walk of about 8 kilometres from hillside Lagada, to hillside Tholaria on the other side of the valley, and from there to Ancient Aegiali. It was another beautiful day as I walked into the centre of the village, found the main church,

and then found the long staircase that was the beginning of my hike to Tholaria. This was my view, from the staircase, to my destination on the opposite side of the valley.

The staircase led towards the head of the valley to a trail that dropped down into a ravine, and then rose back up and passed through the tiny community of Strombous (with no mains water or electricity).

Then the trail rose higher up on the hillside, and began its long curve around the head of the valley.

There were fabulous views down the valley to Aegaeli Bay in the distance,

and back towards Lagada. In the photo below you can just make out the old windmills on a ridge high above the village. What work and effort it must have been to build all of these terraces, grow the grain, build and maintain the windmills and hillside paths, and transport the grain to and from the mills!

It was a brilliant walk, easy and scenic. Flowers lined the trail, and there were now also views to the sea on the other side of the island. A short trail in that direction led past fenced farm fields to a small chapel.

After that, the trail curved around to the other side of the valley,

and became an ancient stone-paved path that led all the way around and up to Tholaria.

There were so many small lizards along that south-facing stone path, bright and iridescent green, but they were just too quick to photograph! I entered the village of Tholaria which has a population of about 150 but a very large church!

I didn’t linger, though several cafes looking appealing, as I was intent on visiting Ancient Aegiali, visible on the hilltop in the distance.

The path led me past a large and active farm, noisy with goats and chickens, where the terraces were planted with some kind of legume, and dotted with red poppies and yellow and white crown daisies.

Here is a zoomed in view of Tholaria, across the way.

The trail on the approach to Ancient Aegiali, between farm fences, was overgrown with vegetation, and it looked like no one had walked this path for some time.

I climbed up onto the rocky outcrop, with its jumble of stone fences and parts of a former defensive wall. There were no interpretive signs to make sense of this citadel of ruins, high above the sea, but I had read that it had been occupied in Neolithic times, and that an Ionian settlement here became the third city-state of Amorgos in the 7th century BC.

There was a rather dizzying view, at the far end of the hill, down to a small beach,

but I preferred this view down over the terraces and to the distant hills. I sat here for a while, happy, before beginning the return journey back to Lagada.

That return walk was as wonderful as the onward journey had been, with bright sun, a light breeze, fragrant plants, quick lizards, and glorious views in every direction.

Back in Lagada, I enjoyed a quiet and restful afternoon, and cooked up a dinner of veggie pasta seasoned with a generous amount of oregano that I had picked from the hillside. Then, as the sun began to lower, I walked into the village and beyond it a short distance to the nearby chapel of Agia Triada which is built, like Chozoviotissa, tucked up against a cliff wall. I walked a bit past the chapel, along the road, for this view up,

and then backtracked to enter through a gate where a long paved path led to a staircase, with views back to Lagada.

I climbed up the stairs and entered, first, a small cell,

then there was another narrow staircase,

that led up to a platform and the church where the door is kept unlocked.

From there, more steps led up to another platform, with a wooden bench tucked up against the cliff wall, and all of the valley and bay spread out below. This was the view down over the church,

and this was a zoomed in view of Aegiali Bay where a ferry was just arriving at the pier.

I stayed a little longer, and then stopped on my descent for this last photo of the day. It was a brilliant ending to a wonderful first day in Lagada.

The next morning, I woke up a little late and the day was already warm. My intention had been to hike to a distant chapel, Stavros, 90 minutes from Lagada, with a visit to the Agios Ionnasis Theologos Monastery along the way. I took a wrong turn out of the village, and ended up climbing much higher than I needed to, before correcting my route and finding the correct path where, again, I needed to climb. I have at least a half dozen photos of stairs going up (!), but I will show only one.

Despite the exertion, I was very happy and took my time. It was Easter Sunday, and as I walked I enjoyed the exceptional landscape all around me. Several small patches of daisies caught my eye and they were just so perfect. I stopped to photograph this one,

because to me these flowers represented the real miracle and mystery of the day. This, to me, is what should be celebrated and revered – nature and our very precious Earth. I carried on, and the climb finally ended at a plateau where I walked first through the welcome shade of a path lined with rock walls and many trees.

The path ended at the chapel of Agios Varvara where there is an ancient well.

From the chapel, there was a view up to the Monastery of Agios Ioannais Theologos, at the very top of the rise,

and the walk between here and there was truly spectacular. It was a beautiful, small, and verdant plateau,

with much evidence of previous cultivation and habitation. Just below the monastery there was one building currently inhabited, where a donkey and dog waited patiently for their master.

I climbed the last little rise to the monastery,

and, wow, what a place!

I called “hello” as I entered through an archway into a back courtyard but all was quiet. There were multiple individual cells, behind the church, and I wondered how many monks might have once lived here, and how many might live here now. I walked all around this beautiful monastery, and its church, with its round tower and east-facing church window.

The monastery was founded here in the 9th century AD, and these buildings date from the 1300s, with some carved stones, set in the altar, indicating that a pre-Christian temple once stood here. And, it is easy to understand why this site was chosen, with views to the sea in the west at Aegiali,

and to the sea in the east,

and over that beautiful small plateau.

I explored north of the monastery where there were many remains of old farmsteads, field fences, and a threshing circle, and in the near distance I heard the bells of sheep and goats, and the whistles and calls of a shepherd, as he led his flock. It was all rather emotionally overwhelming, in the best way, as I turned around and around and every single thing I saw was beautiful. I sat for a while, near the monastery, for food and water and a rest. Part of me wanted to continue to Stavros, about two kilometres distant, and part of me felt that this was the place to stop. I could certainly understand why this place had been chosen, all those centuries ago, and by so many, as a place to settle, and to give thanks.

I began my return back to Lagada, and absorbed all of the beauty again as I left the monastery, walked back through the gorgeous pastoral plateau to the chapel, then along the shaded level path, to the start of my descent on narrow paths and uneven stone steps. My eyes were necessarily focussed on my foot placement as I made my way down, until I noticed the geometric beauty of a thistle plant. That made me stop, and I became hyper-aware of the plants around me. There was yet another new kind of wildflower, in varying shades of pink and white,

and great mounds of euphorbia, oregano, and purple-blooming sage.

The most skilled gardener would be hard pressed to improve on the shapes and arrangements of the trees, shrubs, and flowers all around me along the steps,

and across the hillsides.

I couldn’t go forward more than ten steps at a time without finding another exceptional view to photograph.

It was truly spectacular, and I was feeling euphoric on that hillside, in that natural garden.

Finally, though, it was time to leave, and I set my sights back on Lagada below,

and on Aegiali Bay beyond that, knowing that I would travel there the following morning for my last day on Amorgos.

That evening, I went for a walk through the village. It was surprisingly very quiet, with only a few people sitting together at several tavernas and cafes. I had fun taking many photos of windows and doors, and of whatever else caught my fancy. Here are a few collages from an evening walk in lovely Lagada.

The following day was to be my last day on Amorogos, and I had no ambitions beyond, possibly, braving a swim. I took a taxi down to Aegiali, and again was able to check in early to another wonderful, clean, and inexpensive accommodation that included a seaview balcony.

I took a walk to the village, and was not in the mood to take any photos until I saw a small windmill down by the harbour, so then I had to take a few!

I wandered into a few shops, perused taverna menus, and then returned to my accommodation to be lazy for awhile. Later, in the afternoon, I put on a bathing suit under my shorts and top, and headed down to Aegiali’s long sandy beach where many families were enjoying the holiday Easter Monday, with young children playing in the sand, and a few older ones swimming, while their parents sat in family groups chatting and enjoying the lovely weather. I lay for a short while on the sand, and then went in to the sea up to my knees. My swimming ambitions had deserted me, and I happily strolled barefoot, back and forth along the beach, collecting small flat gray and white pebbles as souvenirs of Amorgos. A short concrete pier extended into the water near the centre of the beach, and from there I took a photo towards the village of Aegiali,

and one to the other side of the bay.

It was a peaceful and relaxing afternoon, and at dinner I treated myself to a sit down dinner at a taverna where I ordered the roasted goat, stuffed with dill and lemon rice, that had been cooked on Easter day. It was delicious, with a side of tzatziki, and a glass of local wine. My island time was ending, and as the sun set I reflected on my week on Amorgos. I was so glad that I had chosen this place for a longer stay, and yet it wasn’t quite long enough.

Perhaps I will be lucky enough to return again one day, for more glorious hillside hikes, on this very special island.

Exploring Wonderful Chora, Amorgos – Greece, Spring 2025

Chora Windmills, Castle, and Town, Hike from Chora to Katapola, Monastery of Agios Georgios Valsamitis, Good Friday Procession

After my visit to the Chozoviotissa Monastery, I returned to Chora and made my way to the arched gateway at the edge of the village,

turned right at the chapel, and there was my lovely accommodation (the sage-coloured door is mine, and the blue door belongs to my hosts.)

I had a refreshing shower, and then enjoyed a quiet afternoon doing a bit of laundry, and not much of anything else.

Later, after a simple dinner, I was ready to go out and explore Chora. It is such a pretty village!

I made my way to the ridge of windmills, just behind and above Chora, and from there I caught my first sight of the dramatic jut of rock that rises from the top of the hill, topped by the ruined walls of an early 13th century Venetian castle.

Then my attention was back on the windmills!

There were ten altogether, and I walked up, down, and all over the undulating ridge, enjoying the beautiful evening air and light, and the plethora of views in every direction.

There were views of neighbouring ridges, terraced hillsides, tucked-away chapels, and the distant sea. It was marvellous!

Even down low! I found two new flowers yet again. I was thrilled (and surprised) to see tiny purple irises scattered here and there around the hillside, and there were also patches of what I think is red anemone.

All of the vegetation on this rocky ridge was low-growing, including the purple geraniums that grew taller elsewhere, and many different kinds of grasses.

I took photo after photo of the windmills and, as at Chozoviotissa, I did not want to leave this incredibly beautiful place.

And, views of the village kept drawing my eye as well,

with its dramatic rock fortress which provided protection from pirate raids for much of the 13th to 17th centuries.

I made my way back down into the village and headed in the direction of the castle, but I was highly diverted on the way! Chora has almost thirty churches and chapels!

There were doors to photograph, in greens,

and blues,

and sleepy cats on colourful taverna chairs.

A few more lanes, chapels, and squares to pass,

and I finally arrived near the base of the castle rock, with the buildings here looking distinctly older.

I circled around to the back of the rock to find the Church of Saint George clinging to its side. Earlier in the day I had been told that the door of the church (and access to the top of the rock) is usually locked, but that it might be open because the church was being newly painted.

I climbed up the narrow stone steps, and was careful at the top of the curve to not fall down and into the remains of a castle tower!

The door was open, as was the next, (though not a third small door into the church), so I could pass through and onto the top of the rock!

I rose up to the flag, and I was all alone up there, with the fresh evening breeze blowing, and I loved it! There were views to the southwest of the island,

and over the roof of the church to the northwest.

and to the west I was able to see all ten windmills aligned on the ridge beyond the village.

Once again, I didn’t want to leave! When I did finally descend, I went very very slowly down those narrow curving stairs. It is always more scary going down than up!

At the bottom, I began to complete my circuit around the base of castle rock,

and around the curve was another church, quite small and very atmospheric.

It had a small gated courtyard where someone had planted rose bushes, and there were beautifully carved stones at the two top corners of the doorway.

I read later that it is named the church of Kyra Ieousa, and that it predates the Monastery of Chozoviotissa and is probably the oldest church in Chora. I left the church, turned back for this view,

and continued my circuit around the base of the rock until I returned to where I had started. Then, I slowly made my way back through the narrow village lanes to my apartment. It had truly been an exceptional and marvellous day, with my visit to Chozoviotissa, and my exploration of the village, and I was so glad that I had travelled to beautiful Amorogos.

The following morning, I set out on a hike to see another historical and very interesting monastery that I had read about, the Agios Georgios Valsamitis. This monastery had been built over an ancient sacred spring associated with Apollo and an Oracle. I set out on a centuries-old pathway, along the sides of a hill, with views of terraces all around,

and I had soon left Chora far behind.

Initially, I had planned to hike to the Valsamitis monastery, a distance of about 3.5 kilometres, and then return to Chora, but when the sea and Katapola came into view in the distance, I decided that I would hike the entire way there and return to Chora by taxi.

It was wonderful walking along the path, on scented hillsides, and after a short section of road walking, I could see the monastery ahead, with the remains of an old water mill on the hillside above it.

This monastery had been a nunnery for centuries, but was abandoned in the 1797. It had been built over an ancient sacred spring that was dedicated to Apollo. The spring was associated with the “Oracle of the Speaking Water” and women had traditionally been the interpreters of the Oracle’s messages. I learned that, in recent years, a single Orthodox Greek nun, Irini, moved in, restored the monastery, and brought the gardens to life, and that she lived there alone, painting icons, and welcoming visitors.

But, I had learned on my visit to Chozoviotissa that Sister Irini is no longer at the monastery, and that a monk is now in residence, but no explanation was given as to why she had left. I felt sad about that, having hoped to meet her. I called, “Hello? Hello?” as I entered through the gate. It was Good Friday, and I did not want to disturb any services or devotion that might be taking place, but there was no one there. All was quiet, and I had the beautiful place to myself.

I sat on a low stone wall in the courtyard, under the welcome shade of a tree, to rest, have a snack, and absorb the history of this place. I wished that I could have met Irini, and seen the ancient spring that still flows inside a recess in the church. Eventually, it was time to say goodbye and carry on. I continued on the path to Katapola, with this last view back.

For the rest of the hike, I had views of the sea and Katapola pulling me forward,

but there is always value in looking back to where one has been.

Chora looked very far away, high on the distant hill. It always amazes me how far one can walk in a short time, and it is gratifying to see the results of all of those steps! And none of it was onerous, as everything one sees is new and exciting. Every step is a step that I have never taken before, and new views always emerge. Later in the hike, I was happy to see some cultivated terraces, planted with wheat, and nearby there were some hilltop ruins and an old threshing circle.

I soon reached the Church of the Holy Cross, Stavros,

where I sat again, on a convenient chair in the shade, to rest and enjoy the quiet of the place. I had not yet seen another person since leaving Chora.

It was a very beautiful small church, and I loved the views back over the hillsides of the valley that I had traversed.

Now, I had a choice to make as the trailhead to climb Ancient Minoa was directly across from me and would require a diversion of only about an hour, up and back, but it was hot, and my heart and brain felt very full. Also, if I did not climb up to Ancient Minoa today, it might be more likely that I would return one day to Amorgos. So, I continued on, down to Katapola,

where I walked along the waterfront, back to where I would catch Dina’s taxi back up to Chora. I had to wait about fifteen minutes, but that was fine, looking at this view, with Ancient Minoa and the beautiful sea strengthening their case for my possible return!

The ride back up to Chora was just as thrilling as the first time, with dizzying curves and heart-stopping views down (always scarier when someone else is driving!), and I arrived to a quiet Chora, where the cats were again napping on taverna chairs in the mid-afternoon heat, and there was something new. All of the streets were strewn with stems of oregano, taken from the hills.

There were also blackened canisters filled with fibre and fuel along laneways, and I was told that there would be a procession that evening at nine p.m., from the main church through the streets of the village, called the Epitaphios (mourning). A decorated bier, representing Christ’s tomb, would be carried all around the streets of the village, with the fire-lit cans decorating side lanes along the way. I was assured that I would be welcome, so I ventured out close to nine and found myself at the main square which was full of people outside of the church, talking quietly in groups. You could sense that this was a tradition most had participated in since they were children. There was beautiful singing coming from the church, and there was room for me to venture inside and watch the service and the beginnings of the procession. I joined the crowd outside, and made my way through the village with others, aware that this tradition has likely been performed here for well over a thousand years. It was incredibly special to be there to witness and participate in the procession.

It was also a very special way to end my two days in Chora, and I was reluctant to leave this beautiful village, but I knew that the next village, Lagada, and its surrounding hills would be special as well. I was so glad that I had chosen Amorgos as the finale to my Greek islands visit.

Simply Stunning, the Holy Monastery of the Virgin Mary Chozoviotissa, Amorgos – Greece, Spring 2025

Holy Monastery of the Virgin Mary Chozoviotissa, Amorgos

After my second night in Katapola, I took a taxi up to the beautiful town of Chora. I had originally planned to travel by bus on Amorgos, but no buses were running because of the Easter holidays, and I did not wish to rent a car. Thankfully, the taxis were reasonably priced, and I was rather glad that I had not booked a car as my driver, Dina, drove with speed and skill up, down, and around precipitous and dizzying mountain curves! My hosts greeted me at a lovely cafe, and walked with me the short distance to my spacious and beautiful accommodation, with its own private little courtyard!

I dropped off my things, and headed out straight away for my walk to the Holy Monastery of the Virgin Mary Chozoviotissa. I had seen a photo of this stunning monastery, dramatically situated on the side of golden cliffs, high above the sea, when I was first deciding which of the many Cycladic islands to visit. As soon as I saw the image, I knew that I wanted to travel here. The trail to the monastery started right at the edge of the village. Trail 1, the “Palia Strada” (Old Road) follows ancient pathways for 14.5 kilometres along the spine of Amorgos, from Chora to the village of Lagada, with 930 metres of ascent, and 645 metres of descent along that distance! Traders and pilgrims used this path for centuries to travel between the port of Aegiali, below Lagada, to Chora and the monastery. (It is interesting to note that electricity was not installed on Amorgos until the 1980s, and the main road between the two ports of Katapola and Aegiali, was not paved until 1991!) My journey on Trail 1, however, would be quite short, as the monastery was only thirty minutes away, first down a steep zigzagging trail,

then along a short section of roadway. I surveyed the cliffs ahead as I walked, and noticed an area of pretty serious rockfall. Giant slabs of rock lay in a jumbled pile below where they had obviously sheared off of the cliff face, and it looked fairly recent! I was reminded sharply that Amorgos had experienced the same recent swarm of thousands of earthquakes as Santorini. The two islands are only about fifty kilometres apart, and most of the quakes were centred on a fault line that runs between the two!

I reached the famous staircase to the monastery, and began to climb up the 350 steps. Once I had rounded the curve of the cliff, I got my first glimpse of Chozoviotissa!

And here was the gorgeous blue sea below!

I paused (but not too long!) to look at the narrow beginnings of a cave on the rock wall. The monastery is built into a recess such as this, as well as much of it being carved right out of the cliff face.

I continued up the staircase, nearer and nearer to the stunning edifice.

What a place!

There were buildings off to the left of the main structure, and narrow terraced gardens below.

I walked up to the base of the monastery for this amazing view up,

and this one,

and this one!

The monastery is 40 metres wide, and 5 metres at its deepest. It is 8 stories high, and includes 15 monastic cells, a small church, and 72 different rooms, all linked by narrow staircases. It is the second oldest monastery in Greece, and was built in 1017, with renovations in 1088. It has been continuously occupied and maintained for over a thousand years!

The monastery is usually open between 9 a.m. to 1 p.m., and 5-7 p.m. I arrived there close to 11. There was one other visitor, a young woman from Athens who comes here every year at Easter for a pilgrimage. We talked for a few moments, and she told me that the first two doors were unlocked, but not the door to the church. She guessed that the monastery might fully open at 11. Here is the beautiful entrance, at the far side of the monastery.

I entered through the low doorway,

and found myself in a narrow passageway. The rock wall of the cliff curves closely to the stairs as you go up, and there was a beautiful painting in a recess above the entrance font.

I rose up to a second floor passageway, but the end door was locked, as was the door to the church which was up another short flight of stairs.

I returned outside, and decided to explore a bit more and take more photos from different vantage points, like this one!

A small tour group arrived at 11 with a local guide, and the monastery opened soon after. I entered with the group into the monastery, and then into the small church which was quite beautifully decorated and very atmospheric (no photos were allowed). I was lucky to be there to listen to the guide as she related some of the history and the interesting stories of this place. We then moved to the outside balcony where photos are allowed. We were 300 metres above the sea! Here is a photo down to the staircase,

one looking straight down to the sea,

and one of the balcony itself, the north and south sides.

I looked through the window of the north side wall, to the continuation of Trail 1, the Palia Strada, as it heads off along the perilous cliff edge. I wondered if I would be brave enough to hike that section of trail if I ever return to Amorgos one day. Writing this now, I still don’t know the answer to that question.

I took one final photo from the balcony, looking up at the church bells and the massive amount of rock above us!

I returned inside, and sat for a while longer in the church, looking at the artistry of the devotional paintings, woodwork, textiles, and silver work. After, I found another corridor with a kitchen at one end and a sitting room at the other. The tour group members were there with their guide, and also with the monastery’s young monk, Constantine, learning more about the monastery and enjoying a small glass of raki which is traditionally offered to guests. I didn’t want to intrude, so I sat in the space between the two rooms and listened in as well as I could to the stories that were being shared.

I sat in front of a bright window, with the kitchen to my left, and the sitting room to my right. Before me were some photographs and paintings on the wall, and one photo was of the monk Father Spyridon. He is one of two monks who came here in their early twenties, and they are now in their eighties. For sixty years they have travelled, most often on foot, to conduct services in various churches and chapels all over the island. In the church I had spoken briefly with the young monk, Constantine, who has been here for three years, and he is deciding whether he will stay on here at Chozoviotissa.

The tour group left, and other visitors were arriving, so I felt it was time for me to go, but I was reluctant to leave this special and unique place. I slowed my departure by taking yet more photographs – the stairs as I descended,

and then, this wonderful and unexpected view as I passed through the doorway to outside. I love this photo!

And this one too!

The cats were seeking shade for their midday naps, and this little fellow kind of reminded me of Brent who can sleep in the oddest places and positions!

Still reluctant to leave, I took several more photos, and then,

when I saw more visitors coming up the stairs,

I knew that my visit was well and truly over. I descended maybe twenty steps, and then, unable to resist, I stopped for one last look down to the sea,

and one last look up to the monastery.

I made my way down the stairs, then up the roadway, and onto the zigzag path back up to Chora, stopping only a few times to catch my breath, and to photograph two last, beautiful things, small but perfect, on this very special island.

And more beauty was yet to come!

A Great Start on Amorgos – Greece, Spring 2025

Katapola, Xylokeratidi, Evangelistria Hike

My ferry from Naxos to Katapola, on the island of Amorgos, was scheduled to leave at 1:00 a.m., and to arrive in Katapola at 4:00 a.m.. I had originally booked an afternoon sailing on a different ship, the Express Skopelitis, a sturdy nautical work horse based in Katapola that services the Small Cyclades Islands, Amorgos, and Naxos, by ferrying passengers and cargo daily. Unfortunately, the Express Skopelitis was undergoing repairs so I had to change my booking to the only other option, a Blue Star ferry at 1:00 a.m.. I decided to book another day at my current accommodation because I couldn’t imagine wandering around about town, kicking my heels, until past midnight. I felt nervous, leaving to walk to the port shortly after midnight, but I needn’t have worried as the waterfront promenade was all lit up, music was playing, and there were lots of people around in groups and couples having a drink or a late night snack. I had worried that I would be the only person at the port, all by myself in the dark, but there were cars and people all over. An older U.K. couple, who have visited Amorgos every year for the last thirty years, told me that Greek ferries run at all hours of the night, and are always busy at any hour.

I rested on the three-hour voyage, and tried to sleep, but couldn’t. Thankfully, my accommodation provider picked me up at the port and whisked myself and two other guests the short distance to Titika Pension where I buried myself immediately under a heavy and warm, deep blue blanket, to sleep well for a good solid six hours. I woke refreshed, admired my small but charming room, and made up a simple breakfast to enjoy on a lovely communal balcony with a view of Katapola Bay.

Amorgos is one of the lesser visited of the Cyclades islands, having few beaches, but it is popular with hikers and those who want a quieter experience. It is a long, thin, and mountainous island, with high cliffs that plunge down to the sea on much of its two long-sided coasts. It has two ports, and I began my week on Amorgos at its southern port, Katapola, which is located on a beautiful bay. Actually, my accommodation was opposite the village Katapola, on the other side of the bay, in a very tiny village named Xylokeratidi. After breakfast, I strolled along the waterfront promenade, over to the Katapola side, to visit the bakery and grocery store.

Then, back on my side of the bay, and provisioned with a healthy snack and water, I decided to head out on a walk to visit the Church of St. Panteleimon, located scenically on a small headland about two kilometres from me along the coast. It was a lovely walk, first past a small harbour with fishing boats,

then up through the few quiet streets of Xylokeratidi,

to arrive at what may be the prettiest chapel that I have come across yet in Greece!

And this was the front!

There were also great views to my destination ahead, with the church just visible on the headland.

I continued along on a stony beach,

and greatly enjoyed both the walk and the views of Katapola Bay. The water was so beautiful!

I arrived at the small headland,

and viewed the Church of St. Panteleimon from all sides.

From there, I decided to take a path to connect to the #7, “Evangalistria”, way-marked trail, a looped trail of just under four kilometres that rose up onto a hillside,

and continued to rise up alongside terraces,

to arrive at a small, hidden, and beautiful hilltop plateau, divided by stone walls into fields.

There was a ruined farm house in the distance, and I felt a little sad looking at these no-longer used fields. It felt like a bit of a magical place, like a place to settle, where the land could be generous, and I imagine that for a time it was. A little farther up the path, I came across the ruins of several other old and abandoned homes that were aligned on the ridge, with Katapola Bay below and the fields behind.

The circular grouping of flat paving stones puzzled me, and on a later hike I came across another one that was near a field of planted wheat. I deduced then that it must be an old threshing circle. I googled it to make sure, and have since seen several others on the island. I left the small abandoned community behind, and began a slow descent down one hill, and then up and around another. On the way, I noticed two new, very delicate and beautiful flowers, that I hadn’t yet encountered on my travels in Greece.

There were also many very fragrant plants all over the hillsides, including a type of sage, with pale purple blooms, and a yellow-flowered plant which had a very strong and unusual scent – I couldn’t decided whether I loved it or hated it!

Here are a few more plants that were blooming along the route, including one with tiny pink flowers that is possibly in the orchid family.

As I began the descent towards Katapola, I saw the bright white roof of the Evangelistria Chapel, after which this trail is named.

Newly painted, incuding its pretty blue gate, this early Byzantine chapel was very beautiful.

It had an interesting side door made of hammered metal, and iron nail heads or rivets formed the design of a Greek cross in a circle. There was also a pleasant little shaded sitting area facing the chapel.

(I later learned that near here there are also the remains of a Mycenaean chamber tomb from the 14th-13th century BC.) I paused for this next view, over a lovely olive grove, across towards Katapola, and up to the mountain rising up behind the port. That mountain is topped by the ruins of Ancient Minoa, which was an ancient Cycladic settlement, and there is also evidence of habitation there in late Stone Age.

It had been my original intention, today, to do the hike from Katapola up to Ancient Minoa, but I hadn’t expected to hike Trail 7 – that had been an impulse decision, and one that I was happy I had made. I was beginning to feel a bit tired from my middle-of-the-night ferry ride, so I decided to return to my accommodation and see how I felt later about possibly making the climb – perhaps I would do the hike in the early evening… I passed a chapel as I walked back through tiny Xylokeratidi, with its pretty villas and quiet streets,

and then I reached the bay and walked out onto a pier for this photo over to my accommodation, Pension Titika, across the water. I was really beginning to settle into the peace and the relaxed pace of this beautiful place.

Back at Titika, I noticed for the first time that my room number 8 had its own little balcony!

Reason enough to spend time at home, I think! I did stroll back around the bay to Katapola around dinner time (no kitchenette), to check out its shops and restaurants,

and I settled on a souvlaki pita wrap to take back to my balcony, where I sat and looked at the bay for the rest of the evening.

I kept looking up at Ancient Minoa a little wistfully, and felt like the mountain looked back at me somewhat reproachfully, but perhaps it was best to have omitted that hike, because now I was already beginning to plan a return trip to the beautiful island of Amorgos.