Naxos Chora, Portata, Byzantine Park of Tragea Hike, Naxos Kasteli, Naxos Culture and History Tour, and Southwest Beaches

From Santorini, I travelled to the island of Naxos which is the largest, greenest, and most fertile of the Cycladic Islands. It is quite mountainous, and its Mount Zas is the highest peak in all of the Cyclades, with an elevation of 1,003 metres. I had not initially planned to visit Naxos, but needed to stop there because there were no direct ferries between Santorini and Amorgos in the off-season. I decided to stay on the island for three days, and once I started researching, I learned that Naxos has a long distance waymarked path, the Strada, that travels from the southwest coast of the island to northwest coast, for a total distance of 52 kilometres. I would not have time to do this walk on my three days, but my goal was to see as much of the island as I could, and to try a hike, to see if I would like to return to Naxos in the future to walk the Strada.

I arrived at the busy harbour and immediately liked the energy of Naxos town, called Chora, with its harbour, marina, waterfront promenade, and old town streets rising uphill to the Venetian Kasteli. My accommodation was excellent! Close to everything, with a small balcony and sea view, and an even better sea view on the rooftop deck.

I found an excellent bakery and grocery store nearby for provisions, made a quick simple dinner, and then headed out in the early evening to visit Naxos’ famous Portata. I travelled via the quiet and narrow back streets,

and then descended to the cheerful waterfront promenade which definitely has a holiday vibe.

Here is the causeway which leads out to the small islet of Palatia, and on that islet is Naxos’ most famous landmark, its Portata.

The Portata is a huge structure that was meant to be the entrance to a grand and glorious Temple of Apollo. Begun in 530 BC by Lygdamis, who was later overthrown, it was never finished. Later, the ruling Venetians and then the Turks removed most of the temple’s stones to build the town’s hilltop castle, but the doorway was left standing, with its four long blocks of Naxian marble that each weigh twenty tons. Facing towards Delos, Apollo’s birthplace, the massive doorway is a beautiful and impressive tribute, just as it is!

There were great views back from the islet to Chora, with its castle-topped hill,

and I enjoyed walking all around the structure, taking photos from different angles.

It was a lovely evening, and I stayed on the hill for a long time, as people came and went.

I loved being there, and I had a good feeling about Naxos. I took my time heading home, and at my studio I read up on Naxos and researched my next’s day hike. At the last moment, I remembered to pop up to the rooftop terrace for this view of the sun setting behind the neighbouring island of Paros.

The next morning, I took a local bus from Chora to Chalki, a lovely little town near the centre of the island, to do a seven kilometre circular hike from Chalki to Moni that is called the Byzantine Park Trail as it passes four Byzantine-era churches. (As well as the Strada, Naxos is well-suited to hikers as it has more than a dozen waymarked trails of varying lengths and difficulties.) It only took moments to find the trailhead, and the promising start led me quickly out of town and then along a grove of very old olive trees. (Naxos apparently boasts the existence of the world’s oldest living tree, an olive tree estimated to be between 5,000 to 6,000 years old!)

A short spur trail took me to the very beautiful 11th c. Church of St. George Diasoritis,

and, a short while later, I descended another spur trail to visit the architecturally interesting, 12th century, Church of Taxiarches at Monitsia.

Here, I rose up behind the church to take an alternate trail, 4A, and from there I had views across the beautiful valley, filled with olive and oak trees, to striking mountains behind.

To the southeast, was the mountain town of Filoti, with Mt. Zas rising behind it,

and to the north was my destination, the village of Moni topping a hill in the distance.

It was a very wonderful hike!

I next reached the Byzantine Church of Agios Isodoros, which was a very large structure, built into a hill and unrestored. I saw many bees enter its cavernous space – there must be lots of honey inside!

There were many stone fences and ruins of old farmhouses nearby, and I could occassionally hear the bleating of goats and the sound of sheep bells as I walked. At the head of the valley, I dipped down from the mountainside trail to cross a stream, and then I began the climb up to Moni. It was so verdant!

I came across lupines for the first time on my trip, and close to Moni there were terraces full of them!

I then passed the late 6th century Church of Panagia Drosiani, which is thought to be the oldest Christian church in all of Greece and the Balkans. Three girls were sitting outside, and some people were inside, and I didn’t want to disturb anyone with my photo taking. The girls said hello, and I was cheerfully told by the eldest that they were sisters, aged 11, 10, and 9. We exchanged names, and I told them I was from Canada, but that was about as far as we could get with their English and my Greek, though we smiled at each other alot! I took a quick photo up high, so as not to include the girls,

then said goodbye, and continued on my way up to Moni. It was a bit of a huff and puff climb, then a quick walk through the town,

and then a series of steps and steep trail that quickly took me far below the village.

I was now on the other side of the valley, and much closer to the beautiful mountains that I had seen before.

The walk back was relaxed and easy, and the rural views were splendid.

I passed through the tiny but wonderful smattering of old buildings that was Kaloxylos,

and soon I had returned to Chalki where I wandered the town a bit, before sitting in the sun to wait almost an hour for the next bus back to Chora. The bus would pass me going in the other direction first, and when it did, I asked if I could go for a ride to the end of the line, and then stay on for the return. The driver said yes and I was so glad he did. The ride was fantastic, up to Filoti, and around and up to Apeiranthos, with many switchbacks up steep-sided mountains, and with views of new mountains and valleys and off to the sea. Greek music played on the radio, and the driver went fast around the curves. I put on my seat belt! Many hikers got on at Apeiranthos and appeared happy with their day outside, as was I. The ride back down, through the various mountain villages all the way to Chora, was just as fun, and I was very glad to get to see so much of Naxos.

Then, a hot shower, the pleasant chore of hand washing laundry and hanging it to dry on my balcony, salad and a spinach pie for dinner, sorting through the day’s photos and reading ahead for the next day…it’s a very simple life while travelling! Goodnight from Naxos!

The following day I had an island tour scheduled for the afternoon so in the morning I decided to explore Chora’s hilltop Venetian castle, with its one remaining original 12th century tower, Gyzi, which is currently being restored. A maze of arched gateways, occupied villas, chapels, a large Catholic Church, and a former monastery and convent are crowded together on the hill in a pleasing mix of old and new. I entered under arched gateways and circled around on the lower levels, with views up,

and then I found the south Paraporti gate that lead up to higher levels and the church above.

I visited the small but elegant and comprehensive archaeological museum which featured artefacts from Naxos’ centuries of human history, ranging from the Neolithic to the Bronze and Iron Ages, through the Hellenic and Roman periods, and then the centuries of Byzantine, Venetian, and Turkish rule. Then I enjoyed more wandering about, along the lanes, under passages, and around corners.

In the afternoon, I took a four hour Naxos Half Day History and Culture guided tour in order to see more of the island and, despite not being a tour person, I did enjoy the stops we made, the commentary and bits of story on the way, and the scenery as we drove. The downsides were not having enough time at each place (I like to take my time), and having to zip ahead, or fall behind, the group of about forty in order to take people-free photos (not an easy task but I actually enjoyed the challenge!). Our first stop was the Temple of Demeter who was the goddess of agriculture, harvest, and fertility. Built of Naxian marble in the 6th century BC, it has been partially reconstructed.

I enjoyed walking around the temple for different views,

and also the surrounding views which included the small chapel of Agios Ioannis Theologos. Moved to its present site near the temple, it had originally been built under the arch of a ruined Christian basilica that had replaced the pagan temple in the 5th-6th c. AD.

And, this is perhaps my favourite photo from my entire trip to Greece thus far! Demeter has certainly done her work!

We next made a stop at a pottery studio and shop in Damalas (population 18) where the fourth generation potter made a traditional sfouni jug, within minutes, on his wheel, and often working just by touch. A personable young man then explained how the sfouni (which means siphon) was used, and is still used, to siphon wine from a barrel into first the handle and then the centre of the jug. He also demonstrated, and then explained, the mysterious workings of the Pythagoras cup, which the potter also makes. A very clever invention, attributed to Pythagoras, it prevents drinkers from being greedy and over-imbibing. Google it! I really enjoyed this stop and couldn’t resist buying one small cup as a souvenir from Greece.

We continued to the small village of Chalki where I had begun and ended my hike the day before. There was time to stroll, visit a distillery to sample the local kitron liqueur, or sit for a coffee or ice cream cone. I enjoyed strolling the town with its Venetian-era buildings, lovely square, galleries, and shops with authentic crafts, including beautiful textiles, and local food products.

We then drove up to the mountainside village of Filoti to visit the Panagia Filoti Orthodox church which was built in 1720 with unexpected support from the then-ruling Turks as thanks for the support of a local Greek man who had helped rescue the crew of a wrecked Turkish ship. The church had a very beautiful painted dome, and was as elaborate as all of the Greek Orthodox churches that I have visited.

Next door to the church was a wonderful little Folk Museum, and I really wish that we had had more time to spend here. We were given a taste of a local cheese, and a sample of a very strong spirit called raki.

Next, we drove up towards Moni and stopped at the Panagia Drosiani where I had met the three sisters on my hike the day before. It looks large from the outside, with several round domed cells,

but the inside was tiny, and very atmospheric, with very old painted frescoes, some of which date from the 6th century and some from the 13th and 14th centuries. We weren’t told which, but a flash light helped to illuminate a beautiful portrait of Mary, and one of Saint George seated on a horse. (Reminder, you can click on any photo for a larger image.)

We continued up mountain roads to drive past two of Naxos’ five marble quarries – the island exports over 80,000 tons of marble every year.

The scenery was wonderful, with dramatic mountains, sweeping valleys, and terraced hillsides as we drove to our last stop, near Melanes, to see one of three giant Kouros statues that lie on Naxos, broken, near where they were being sculpted from marble 2600 years ago. My photo is terrible (under dappled light) of this giant, 5.5 metre long statue of a youth, but the story is interesting. The kourous was found by a farmer on his land in the 1940s, but he told no one about it as so many Greek treasures had been taken out of the country by foreigners. Finally, as a very old man, he told his grandchildren and they kept the secret for a long time as well. It remains where it was found all those years ago.

I really enjoyed the bus tour, and it served my purpose to see more of the island. The following day, I wanted to check out some of the beaches on Naxos, as afternoon swims after morning hikes would be a great way to spend a future week on Naxos walking the Strada. Because it is still low season, not many buses were running to the beaches so I decided to first check out Agios Georgios beach which is in walking distance to the old town of Chora. After less than a fifteen minute walk I was here!

With views looking out,

and back to Chora.

The beach went on and on,

and on and on, to an area of low dunes and a wild feel.

I decided to keep on walking to the very end of the beach, and then across the distant headland, in order to check out two more beaches, Agios Prokopios,

and Agia Anna,

where I stopped to return to Chora by bus. I was convinced! And Naxos has many more long golden sand beaches ranged all along its southwest coast, as well as elsewhere on the island.

I was very happy to have visited to Naxos, and as I packed up my bag that evening for my 1:00 a.m. ferry to Amorgos, I knew that I would like to return here to experience more of this island. That is, though, until I got to Amorgos…, and now the decision of where to return has been made that much more difficult!