Better in Santorini – Greece, Spring 2025

Ancient Akrotiri, Hike from Fira to Oia, and the Prehistoric Museum of Ancient Thera

On the morning of my third full day on Santorini I again took the 8:30 bus to Ancient Akrotiri, and this time it was open! Ancient Akrotiri was a large and prosperous Minoan settlement at the southern end of the island that was frozen in time by the large eruption of the Santorini volcano in 1630 BCE. The city was buried under 60 metres of ash and pumice, but unlike Pompei, the residents had time to flee before the eruption, perhaps warned by earlier quakes or initial smaller eruptions. The site is protected from the elements by a large building, and work is ongoing. Only about three percent of the site has been excavated, revealing streets, squares, shops, and homes up to three stories high. Visitors tour the site on walkways above the ruins, and the excellent interpretive panels help to make sense of the gray expanse of ruins and ash.

Everything seems rather fragile and precarious, with sand bags and posts helping to support structures, and archaeologists have stabilized windows, door frames, and walls with concrete.

I liked this building where large vases have been left where they were found. Most of the recovered artefacts, however, have been removed for safety and study, and some of the most important finds, including beautiful wall frescoes, are on view at the Prehistoric Museum of Ancient Thera in Fira, and at the National Archaeological Museum in Athens.

Here, plaster casts of wooden bed frames have been placed where the beds were found.

It was all very interesting, and there was an excellent video that showed what one of the larger and finer homes, the West House, would have looked like, and how it would have been organized and utilized. There were storerooms, workshops, a room full of weaving looms, domestic areas, and even a commode that emptied down clay pipes to the city’s sewer system. The highest floor was light and airy with large windows and it featured beautiful wall paintings including one long narrow painting of an epic sea voyage, with finely drawn ships, cities, people and nature. Here is a small portion of that painting which was reproduced on one of the information panels. (I saw the original wall painting the following day at the museum, but could not photograph it well.) All of the wall paintings found at Akrotiri provide valuable information about life on this Agean island in the Early Bronze Age.

Happy with my visit, I returned to Fira, and spent the rest of the morning and the early part of the afternoon inside, sorting photos and catching up on my blog. Then, at around two I set off to begin the Fira to Oia hike, telling myself that it was okay if I changed my mind and did not complete it. I went to the cliffside path, turned north, and set off. It was a beautiful afternoon, warmer than the previous days, and with a lovely breeze. I turned after the first few minutes for this view back to Fira and out to sea,

and then for a zoomed-in view to my destination, Oia, on the far distant point, ten kilometres away.

There was a cruise ship in the harbour and the walkway was busy. People were strolling along, admiring the views, or sitting at clifftop terrace restaurants and bars. I was still feeling nervous about the possibility of an earthquake, though not as badly as on my first day. But, I could not imagine choosing to sit out on one of those terraces to have a drink or a meal. I wouldn’t be able to relax!

People seemed oblivious to the potential for danger, and my safety wasn’t much more assured on the path, but at least I was aware and constantly looking for a possible escape route! Even worse than dining on a terrace would be to stay the night in a cliffside hotel or villa, as many do, and they pay hundreds and even thousands of Euros per night to do so. What if an earthquake should happen in the middle of the night?

I also thought about the residents of this island, and about the owners and employees of the cliffside bars, restaurants, hotels and villas. What must it be like to live or work here, on the edge, day in and day out? I don’t think that I could tolerate the constant risk…

But, my thoughts weren’t all doom and gloom as I finally settled into the rhythm of the walk. I admired the beauty of the cliffs as I rose up towards Imerovigli – the horizontal stripes reveal the geological history of the series of volcanic eruptions which formed the Santorini volcano and island.

I enjoyed walking through Imerovigli,

with beautiful views back as far as Fira.

I neared and then passed by Skaros Rock. A spur trail heads down onto the promontory, and then up to what remains of the Venetian fortress and walled town that was built atop it.

As I left the outskirts of Imerovigli, I could see the rises and falls of the way ahead, until the final descent into Oia.

I rose up to the Church of Prophetes Elias, just visible near the top of the highest rise ahead,

and beyond it was the only really tricky part of the hike, with a steep, slippery and narrow trail, very close to the edge, and with areas of new rock fall on the path. I did not stop for a photo!

After that, the trail moved further from the edge, and there were fantastic views back as I rounded the inner curve of the crescent.

The rest of the hike was a pleasure, with several gentle rises up to small chapels, followed by easy descents,

and then I walked into Oia!

I made my way to the remains of the Castle of Agios Nikolaos, one of the five fortresses that were built by the Venetians on Santorini. It is a busy spot, especially at sunset, as iconic photos of Oia can be taken from there,

like this one!

Here is a wider view that encompasses more of the hillside.

Many professional photoshoots happen in Oia,

and many young women pose for their perfect “I am here!” Instagram shots. I had to wait my turn to take a quick photo of this next iconic view,

and also this one.

It was fun, but I soon wanted to be away from the busyness, and so I headed towards the windmills, because it was quieter there, and I like windmills!

I really enjoyed my time in Oia, but did not want to wait for the sunset as the town becomes very crowded then. I enjoyed the bus ride back to Fira, with new views of the island’s east coast that I had not yet seen. While there are fantastic and beautiful sights to be seen all over Santorini, there are also the more modest and workaday views of people’s homes, car sales lots, gas stations, abandoned buildings and work sites, etc. It is not all pretty, which is fine, but more than once I wished that people would not litter (locals and tourists), and that Santorini would encourage volunteer clean up crews to pick up what is already there. Garbage is so ugly, and most of the plastic that ends up in the ocean is blown there by the wind. Pick it up please!

The following day, I would be leaving Satorini a bit after noon, so there was time to visit the Prehistoric Museum of Ancient Thera, which would mean that I was able to visit 4/4 of the sights that I most wanted to see in Santorini after all. It was a very fine museum! Many of the artefacts come from Ancient Akrotiri so it was perfect to visit here after having seen the archaeological site. The artefacts were displayed chronologically, beginning with an obsidian arrowhead from the Late Neolithic, and these marble figurines from 2800-2400 BC.

There were carved stone vessels, from 2700-2400 BC, and early pottery from 2200-2000 BC.

Then, later pottery such as these ewers, from 1800 BC, beautifully decorated with flying swallows.

Also on display were bronze containers, cooking pans, and tools from around 1700 BC.

Akrotiri’s most famous finds were its wall paintings, such as these found in the West House which featured the large nautical frieze of a sea journey. These images of youths with their catches of fish are reproduced all over Santorini on restaurant signs, souvenirs, and post cards.

Here are just a few more of the very beautiful wall paintings that were found at Akrotiri.

Finally, here is a rare gold item found there – a beautiful ibex which was found inside a wooden box which was inside a clay chest. Archeologists have concluded that the people of Akrotiri had time to flee before the devastating eruption that buried their city as few valuables such as this were found, and also no human remains.

I was so thankful, in the end, to have been able to see all that I most wanted to see in Santorini. It is definitely an island to visit, and I am very glad that I went, but for me once was enough. My next two Cycladic islands, Naxos, and Amorgos (where I am now), however, are places to return to again, if I should be so lucky. Next up, Naxos!

Hits and Misses in Santorini – Greece, 2025

Caldera Views, Fira, Firostefani, The Red Beach, Pyrgos, and Ancient Thera

Santorini is the most visited island in Greece, with over three million visitors annually, in large part because of its stunning and romantic white villages that are perched precariously on dramatic cliffs, one thousand feet above the sea. It is a crescent-shaped island that was once part of a large volcano that had a catacylsmic eruption in 1600 BCE. Known as the Minoan Eruption, the blast created a massive flooded caldera, with Santorini and its sister islands in a circular formation around it.

The northern end of the crescent (to the left) is the site of Oia, Santorini’s most scenic village and the source of its most iconic images of Cycladic architecture, blue-domed churches, and windmills. At the south end of the crescent is the village of Akrotiri, and near the centre, located along the cliff edge, are the main town of Fira and several other villages. I took a Seajets fast ferry from Mykonos to Santorini, and our ferry skirted around the outer two islands (inhabited) at quite a distance so I got just a quick peek in towards central Santorini, where the villages look like snow atop the cliffs.

Public coach buses wait at the port for each ferry arrival so it was an easy matter to stow my bag, hop on, and pay my fare for the thirty minute trip to Fira. My accommodation was only minutes away from the Fira bus station which was very convenient as buses to all parts of the island start and end there. Even though I was so close to the station, and to Fira’s main road and square, my studio with kitchenette was tucked away in a quiet little street. It was a safe, comfortable, and peaceful place to stay for my four nights on Santorini, and I had a lovely little balcony!

I unpacked, shopped for groceries at a nearby market, cooked up a veggie pasta to last a few days, and then, when the sun was beginning to lower, I finally made my way to the caldera’s clifftop edge which was also located just minutes away from my accommodation. I’m almost at the edge,

and this was my first view!

I then looked north towards the next village, Firostefani, and higher up towards the village of Imerovigli, and beyond that, in the far distance, to Oia at the northernmost end of Santorini.

My number one “must do” activity (out of four), while visiting Santorini, was to do the scenic ten kilometre hike along the cliffs from Fira to Oia. I started walking north on the walled path, while I waited for the sunset, and as a little precursor to my planned hike on the following morning. I rose up to about here,

and the views back over Fira were stunning, but there was a problem. I was nervous! There had been so many earthquakes in Santorini only about a month prior to my visit, over 20,000! Most were slight tremors, under 2 on the Richter scale, but they were near-continuous, and many quakes were stronger, with the strongest reaching 5.3. The swarm of quakes was serious enough to have a State of Emergency declared. Schools were closed, and around 16,000 of Santorini’s 20,000 residents evacuated the island until the quakes calmed about six or seven weeks after they began.

Normally, I am not nervous with clifftop hikes, but as I walked I considered that, if a large quake should happen, there was almost nothing that I could do to escape peril, with there being no really safe exit from the path either up or down! I continued climbing, trying to get over my nervousness, and rose higher, with more views back to Fira. The gray zigzag going down the cliff in the photo below is the walkway up from where cruise ship passengers typically are dropped off, and there is also a funicular going up the cliff there, but both have been closed since the earthquakes started and alternate arrangements have been made for the disembarkation of passengers for those cruise ships that are still stopping at Santorini.

The views were spectacular, and soon I could see over towards the eastern side of the island where the land slopes gently down to the sea, in contrast to the high cliffs of the caldera side.

But, I was still feeling anxious. I rose higher, with views ahead to the village of Imerovigli and to the dramatic promontory to its left, Skaros Rock. In the 13th century, a Venetian fortress and settlement of over 200 homes topped Skaros Rock, but volcanic activity and earthquakes over the subsequent centuries caused most of it to fall to the sea below. You can see where my thoughts were!

Sadly, I was not enjoying myself, and I began thinking that I would not do the Fira to Oia hike after all. There was a cold wind blowing, and I was feeling low in both energy and spirits, so I found an exit point and moved away from the cliff edge. Then, quite by accident, I found myself at this iconic viewpoint, overlooking one of Santorini’s most famous blue-domed churches, the Agios Theodori church in Firostefani. That cheered me up a bit,

and also, as I neared Fira once again, the low sun emerged from behind some clouds, and Fira lit up beautifully.

As I walked back to my accommodation, I decided that I would not do the hike the following morning, as I had planned, and that I would go to see Ancient Akrotiri (Number two on my “Must Do” list of four) instead. The following morning, I was feeling surprisingly okay about my decision to not do the hike, and I was eager to visit the the archaeological site of Ancient Akrotiri at the south end of the island. Ancient Akrotiri is also known as the “The Pompei of Greece” because it was where a large and thriving Minoan village was buried under sixty metres of volcanic ash and debris when the Santorini volcano erupted in 1600 BCE. It was one of the largest volcanic eruptions in human history. I took the 8:30 bus and sat on the right hand side to enjoy thrilling views of the caldera as we travelled south. But, when we arrived (myself and two others on the bus), the archaeological site was closed! I had checked the website the night before, and there had been no notice of a closure. Darn and blast! The next bus back to Fira would not arrive for ninety minutes, so I decided to walk to the famous Red Beach, which was not far away. First, I reached the White Beach, with views of the red cliffs ahead,

and then made my way towards the Red Beach which sits below deeply coloured, iron-rich cliffs. The cliffs, as you can see, are prone to large and frequent rockslides, and several signs warn visitors not to visit the beach.

Many do not heed the warnings, but I did. I sat for a while and just enjoyed looking at the sea and I also watched a small flock of swallows swoop and dive all around me. They are so fast!

Then, the couple who had been on the bus arrived, and we spent the next hour talking until it was time to return to Fira. Once there, I decided that I would visit the Prehistoric Museum of Ancient Thera – the museum was #4 on my “Must Do” list for Santorini. I went directly there, only to find that it was closed! There was no sign on the door as to why, and no notice of a closure on its webpage. Now I was 0/3 on my “Must Do in Santorini” list!

I returned to my studio feeling quite disgruntled! I decided to do some laundry, and I ate and puttered and moped, until I grew tired of all that and decided to go for a bus ride up to Pyrgos, which is Santorini’s highest village. It is built atop a hill, and is crowned with the ruins of a walled Venetian fortress, the Kasteli, and many churches. Built to protect against pirate attacks, the hill is a labyrinth of narrow lanes, gateways, staircases, and connected buildings, some of which have been turned into polished villas, and some of which are distinctly aged. The first views, as I began to climb up, were promising!

This is the Agia Theodosia, seen from many different angles as I roamed up, down, and around the hill. The original Agia Theodosia was built in 1639, and renovated in 1857, but it collapsed in the major earthquake of 1956. This new church dates from 1965.

And, this is the beautiful Church of Saint Nicholas which was founded in 1660 and repaired in 1980.

At the very top of the hill, and built upon and amidst very old ruins, was one of those iced-cake churches. It is the church of Theodorakis, or the Dormition of the Virgin Mary. Built in the 10th century, and renovated in 1663, it is one of the oldest churches on Santorini.

I spent a lot of time on the hill, going up and down every passage that I found, and sometimes doubling back. I went around and around, finding interesting sights in every corner, and many echoes of the hill’s Venetian past.

Most of the doorways were no taller than me!

There were also great views out over the island from the top of the hill. This one looks north towards Fira and the very distant Oia.

Here is a zoomed in view.

And, this was this view to the south, towards the highest point on the island at 565 metres above sea level. Upon this rugged mountain is the Monastery of Profitis Ilias Santorini, established in 1711, and there is also a telecommunications tower a little higher up.

I loved my time up on Pyrgos’ Kastelli hill, and my mood was much improved! The following day I decided to go to the beachside town of Kamari to hike up to Ancient Thera (which was #3 on my “Must Do in Santorini” list), even though I had heard that the archaeological site there was also probably closed. I enjoyed the bus ride there, and the approach to the trailhead, though the climb ahead looked a bit daunting! Ancient Thera is located atop a high and steep-sided, flat-topped promontory called Mesa Vouno, and is surrounded on three sides by the sea. Here is a view of the road that snakes its way up to the archaeological site!

I decided to choose the trail, rather than walk the road, and I soon rose up and above the hillside villas below.

The path was a steep zigzagging mix of rough trail, and ancient stepped pathway. Stopping to photograph the flowers gave me an excuse to catch my breath!

About a third of the way up, I reached the Spring of Zoodochus Pigi which was the main water source for the settlement of Ancient Thera. The spring is located in a 26 metre deep cave, and the site is marked with a small chapel.

I continued up higher, and stopped for views down over Kamari,

and across to that crazy road and the promontory of Mesa Vouno beyond.

Rising higher, views suddenly opened up to Profitis Ilias, with its monastery and the communications tower that I had seen the previous evening from Pyrgos, though from the other side.

There were now also views down to the town of Perissa which is located on the other side of Mesa Vouno. One can also hike up to Ancient Thera from there.

After about another fifteen minutes of climbing, I reached the admissions gate of Ancient Thera and, surprise, surprise, surprise, it was open! I was so happy! I entered the site, passed the ruins of a Temple to Aphrodite, and then rose up to this 9th or 10th century church of Agios Stefanos, which was built on the site of a 6th century Early Christian basilica.

Off to the left, the path continued to climb, (There were three young French tourists who had arrived at the site just as I did. One of their party is just topping the rise of the trail.)

and from there it rose to ever greater views down to Kamari, with its long black sand beach, and also to views of Santorini’s airport runway.

I was very happy with my climb so far, and then this happened!

A staircase of wildflowers! There had been wildflowers scattered here and there all along the trail as I rose, including my first sightings in Greece of bright yellow gorse, and fragrant thyme (blooming purple), but this was so unexpected! And there were many very pretty pink poppies in and amongst their red cousins. The flowery staircase became a flowery trail as I rose,

and then I finally reached the flat top of the mesa, with its wide, principal street that ran for 800 metres to the far end of the promontory. Most of the remains here date from a 9th century BCE settlement of colonists from Sparta whose king was named Theras. With ports down at both Kamari and Perissa, they traded with Athens, Corinth, Ionia, and Rhodes. The site was taken over by the Romans in the first century AD, and then by later civilizations until it was abandoned in 726 when the Santorini volcano had an eruption that covered the city with a light layer of pumice.

These are the remains of a stoa in what was once the Agora,

and this is thought to have been a private house, named the House of Tyche, after fragments of a statue of the goddess Tyche (Fortune) were found here.

Near the Agora was this theatre which could seat 1,500. What a setting!

I continued along the mesa towards the far end where many of the temples had been located. The area was flooded with yellow, and yellow and white, crown daisies! I had seen many photos of Ancient Thera when doing my research for this trip, and the ruins were always very hard to discern because the building stones are of the same limestone as the mountain itself. Everything just blended into an ill-defined mass of grey, and I wondered if the site was worth visiting, but today, at this time of year, the mass of daisies helped to delineate and define the architectural spaces. And, at the very least, is was absolutely beautiful!

The air hummed with the sound of bees, there was a fresh and enlivening breeze, and I sat and watched blue-backed swallows swoop and swerve all around at speed. It all made the experience of being here incredibly rich and exciting, and I felt very grateful indeed.

I returned, slowly, back to the flowery staircase, and enjoyed it all over again,

and then I made my way out of the archaeological site. I thought that I might return via the road, but decided to hike down. There is the lower part of the trail, in the centre of the photo, zigzagging down the steep rocky slope.

And here’s a closer view, after I had descended past the chapel. Going down was much quicker that going up!

I had time to visit Kamari’s black sand beach near the base of Mesa Vuono,

and then I returned to Fira, very very happy with my time up at Ancient Thera. As I passed by the Prehistoric Museum of Ancient Thera I saw that it was open, and I went to ask whether they would be open the following day. The answer was “yes”, (they had been closed the day before because of a strike that affected many federal workers as well as all air and rail travel!), and I asked when Ancient Akrotiri would be opening, and they said, “Tomorrow.” Hooray! That evening, near sundown, I made my way again to the caldera’s edge to look south,

and north,

and directly out to sea.

After some Santorini hits and misses, or, more accurately, some misses then hits, I was beginning to think that I might do the Fira to Oia hike after all.

Note: The first photo of this post, of Santorini from the air, is not one of mine and I don’t know who to credit!

Across to Delos – Greece, 2025

Delos Archaeological Site and Museum, Bonnie’s Windmill, and a Mykonos Deluge!

My principal reason to visit Mykonos was to take a day trip to the important archaeological site that is the island of Delos, located a thirty minute ferry ride away from Mykonos town. There was only one daily ferry departure and return on offer from Delos Tours, because it is still low season, so I would have a total time of three hours on the island rather than the five which is needed to see all of the archaeology, but I was happy nonetheless.

The mood was festive on the boat which was fully loaded as it pulled away from the Old Port. All around me, on the open upper deck, was an excited group of Mykonos Boy and Girl Scouts, ranging in age from about 6 to 16, accompanied by their leaders and many proud parents. They were on their way, with an organization called “All About Blue”, to do a garbage clean up on Delos. I spoke with two of the All About Blue leaders, and learned about some of the environmental education work that their group is involved in. After we docked on Delos, I saw that All About Blue also had a dive team on site to do underwater clean up!

After paying my admission fee, I headed in the opposite direction of the many passengers who had paid for a guided tour. They would follow the blue route towards the ancient religious centre, so I turned to follow the green route through the residential and commercial district, in order to avoid the crowd and to be amongst the first to climb up onto Mt. Kynthos, the island’s highest point (visible in the distance in the photo below).

The green route took me through an expanse of ruins that date from the later history of this small, but culturally and strategically important island. For almost a millennium, Delos was a sacred spiritual centre where pilgrims came to honour the gods, and in particular the twins Apollo and Artemis who were believed to have been born here. Then, in 167 BC, under the Romans, Delos became a free port, and it grew quickly into an important trading centre with a population of over 30,000. Sadly, a great portion of that trade was in slaves. I wound my way among the ruins of the shops and houses of the merchants and traders who came here from all over the known world including from Greece, the Middle East, and all parts of the Mediterranean.

Builders and artisans came too, and some of the homes here on Delos were among the largest built in Greece and featured central courtyards surrounded by marble columns, and elaborate floor mosaics (some of which, unfortunately, were covered with landscaping cloth when I visited).

I passed the ruins of a theatre,

and nearby I heard a very loud croak, from the depths of a large cistern, and from what was likely a very large frog. It sounded like a duck!

It was a glorious day, and I must admit that I quickly became more obsessed with the wildflowers than with the archaeology and history. I know that I have gone on and on in these posts about wildflowers, but it was truly stunning!

There were bees and butterflies all around, and small lizards darted among the stones of the ruins.

I loved this path, lined with red poppies, and purple geraniums and statice! First going up, and then turning to look back down.

I then rose up out of the residential district to this view of the path ahead to Kynthos,

but there were also temple ruins to the left,

so I was drawn there first. These are the remains of the Temple of Hera,

and of the Sanctuary of the Egyptian Gods.

I returned to the other trail, and to the start of the stone steps that lead up onto Mt. Kynthos. There was one long zig,

and then one long zag!

Only one other person had chosen to travel this route ahead of me. There he is at the top of the stairs!

And here is a view from the top, looking west down over a good portion of the archaeological site, and towards the beach and harbour.

This view looks towards the northern part of the island where the brown route (if one has five hours on the island to do all three routes), takes visitors past the ruins of a hippodrome, a gymnasium, a stadium and stadium quarter, a synagogue, and a temple dedicated to Anios, the mythical founder of Delos.

I began my descent,

and then turned to look back up the mountain after I had passed by the Sanctuary of the Egyptian Gods. The earliest settlers on Delos (c. 2500 BC), built their dwellings atop the hill, and almost 1700 years later, the Ancient Greeks built temples there to honour Athena and Zeus.

The wildflowers continued,

as did the archaeology,

and then, after a wonderful walk through another flowery meadow (looking forward and then back),

l arrived at the newly renovated museum. I breezed through quite quickly, past the statues, (though I did linger a bit longer at the one on the right!),

and past the fragments of wall paintings and mosaics, and other exhibits.

I was eager to be back outside where I then spent time exploring the extensive ruins of the religious centre of Delos.

I really like this next photo which captures all that I loved about being on Delos – the flowers, the ruins, and the mountain.

There was a bit of time left to visit the beautiful beach,

before I returned to the pier where the youngest Scouts were exclaiming over the finds made by the dive team.

It had been a spectacular morning on Delos, and I didn’t really want to leave! Nevertheless, I enjoyed the boat ride back, and after we returned to Mykonos,

I spent the afternoon in my lovely apartment making lunch, doing some laundry, sorting through photos, and chatting with a neighbour in the courtyard. Then, in the evening, I headed out into the old town to explore lanes that I hadn’t already explored, and to rise up the hill to visit Bonnie’s Windmill which is part of a Folk Museum. There was a great view from there down over the town and towards Windmill Row.

I enjoyed my walk back down the hill as the low sun shone warm light onto the buildings of Mykonos,

and when I reached the harbour I sat for a while on one of the benches for this sunset view.

My last day, though, on Mykonos, was an entirely different story! My original plan had been to travel to the town of Ano Mera, in the centre of the island, to visit a 16th century monastery with a lovely garden, and then to walk from Ano Mera to the southwest coast to explore several of Mykonos’ famous golden sand beaches. There was only one bus going to Ano Mera on that day, at one p.m., and one bus back four hours later, with no buses from the beach area, so I revised my plans accordingly. The morning was overcast, windy, and chilly, so I stayed inside until it was time to head to the Old Port for my bus. Rain started to fall just as I was leaving, and my umbrella was no match for the strong wind, but I was determined to stick with my plan. I stopped for a quick picture of Little Venice as I passed,

and then continued to the Old Port (where I had arrived on the Sea Bus and taken the boat to Delos), but I couldn’t find the bus stop, and was soon told that it was across the bay, “at the Old Port”. Yikes! I had only five minutes left so I hustled all the way across the harbour front promenade, and around where I asked, four times, “where is the bus stop for Ano Mera?”, and I was pointed, four times, in a different direction! I think that I saw the back end of what might have been my bus head up a hill out out of sight several blocks away. Oh well! Here was my view from the Old Port, across the harbour to the Old Port, as I realized that I would not get to see more of the island of Mykonos.

Then, the rain really started to come down, and within minutes the paved streets were filled wirh streams of water running to the sea, and some of those streams were starting to turn into inches-deep and fast-flowing rivers, while some staircases, as I made my way through the Old Town, had turned into waterfalls. No wonder there had been flooding on Mykonos and Paros the previous week, with nowhere for the water to go but down every hard-surfaced wall, slope, and street. The previous week’s heavy rains had caused a state of emergency to be declared and schools to be closed. Paros was hit the hardest, where more rain fell over the course of a couple of hours than would normally fall in an entire month. (There are some very dramatic videos on YouTube of cars being swept down city streets in the town of Naoussa, on Paros, in the deep and muddy fast flowing rivers that formed.)

I gave up trying to stay on the slightly shallower edges of the street rivers, and walked right through the centre of them as my boots were already completely soaked. I went as quicky as I could back to my accommodation, turned the heat on high, peeled off my sopping clothes, and spent the entire rest of the day inside, safely warm and dry. It is just as well that I did not catch that bus to Ano Mera as the heavy rain continued all afternoon, and during the previous week’s flooding, roads on Mykonos had, reportedly, “broken”!

So, sadly, because of the deluge, I didn’t get to see any part of Mykonos other than it’s main town, Chora, and of course Delos, on my three day visit. But, the following morning, Mykonos was kind enough to send me off with sunshine and blue skies as I left my apartment and walked, with my backpack, down the trail to my chapel, then past the windmills and Little Venice, and on to the Sea Bus which ferried me on a calm and sparkling sea to the New Port for my ferry trip to Santorini. I was very glad, indeed, that I had included a trip to Mykonos, and across to the very special island of Delos, on my first trip to Greece.

Full disclosure: Mt. Kynthos is only 375 feet high, so really more of a tall hill, but it did look and feel like a mountain!

Also, as well as seeing many small lizards among the ruins (though each briefly as they are very fast and timid), I also saw a very large Agama lizard, probably about 30 centimetres long. He was quite a surprise, and looked very much like a mini dinosaur!

Charming Mykonos – Greece, 2025

Mykonos Old Town and Harbour, Windmill Row, and Little Venice

From Delphi I took the public coach bus to Athens, and then the metro to Piraeus which is Athen’s busy harbour and port which serves cruise ships, ferries, and container ships. I was delayed by almost two hours in getting to Piraeus as there was a road cycle race happening in Delphi, but I enjoyed my time waiting in the sun and speaking again with my U.K. friend as well as three young lads from northern Sweden who were travelling throughout Greece and the Balkans. When I did arrive in Piraeus, in the late afternoon, thunderstorms had built up yet again, bringing rain, so I spent most of my time in my small hotel room, except for two short outings to find an inexpensive dinner, and to walk around one of Piraeus’ two marinas that are filled with sailboats and very large and very fancy yachts. I had an early night, and woke before six in order to catch my Blue Star ferry to Mykonos. It was exciting to be boarding my first Greek ferry, to take me to my first Greek island! Here is my ship, the Blue Star Paros, and the view as we left Piraeus harbour at sunrise.

The six-hour voyage went smoothly, and more quickly than expected, as I chatted for a long time with three Greek teenagers from Corinth who were on a school trip to Syros. They were bright, curious, friendly, and keen to practice their excellent English, and they all had the most beautiful eyes! Hello to George, Melina, and Panagiotis (please forgive me if I have spelled your name wrong as I no longer have my note papers!).

My accommodation provider had warned me that buses were not yet running on Mykonos, so I was faced with either a four kilometre walk into town with my backpack, or having to pay around fifteen Euro for a taxi. But, luckily for me, the Sea Bus from the New Port to the Old Port in town was running, and for only two Euro I got a wonderful, mini sea cruise! As we sailed, I took photos of a large cruise ship, and several ferries (including the Paros), that were docked at the New Port.

Here are two views of our approach into beautiful Mykonos town, also known as Chora.

I headed off to find my accommodation, guided by google through a warren of small streets and alleyways, and I couldn’t resist taking a few photos en route.

My accommodation, at the Secret Garden Apartments, was wonderful!

I was warmly welcomed and I knew that I would love staying here. The photo on the right, of my little entrance way and sitting area, was the view out of my window!

The Secret Garden grounds were beautiful, peaceful, and inspiring!

After dropping off my things, I headed straight back out to happily get a little lost in the winding streets of Chora.

I loved the white Cycladic buildings with bright blue trim, the staircases, balconies, and painted walkways, and I passed so many churches and chapels. Chora has over ninety of them, and the small island of Mykonos reputedly has over six hundred! Most are family-owned, and were built in honour of a namesake saint, often to give thanks for the safe return of a loved one from the sea. I liked this chapel, where the rough stone of a connecting wall is left unpainted.

Some buildings (but very few) that I passed were in quite a state, but even they were oddly beautiful too.

I made my way to the Church of Panagia Paraportiani. It is actually a grouping of five small interconnected churches, the first of which was built in the early 13th century at the gate of a walled Venetian fortress which is now long gone. The unique structure gave the impression of being coated in a thick layer of bright white cake icing!

I then made my way to Windmill Row where six windmills are set on a low ridge by the sea. There are sixteen windmills in total on Mykonos, most of which were built by the Venetians in the 15th and 16th centuries to grind grain.

Across the small bay from Windmill Row is Little Venice, a series of Venetian-era buildings that now function as seaside hotels, bars, and restaurants.

The buildings are at the mercy of waves during days of particularly high tides and winds.

I walked across to Little Venice and turned for this view back to Windmill Row,

and then I ventured back into the labyrinth of alleyways, past small shops selling souvenirs, jewellery, art and clothing. There were cafes and tavernas, and luckily I came across an excellent bakery, Prozymi’s, which I visited more than once! Nearby was the harbour of the Old Port, and this is the Church of Saint Nicholas, the patron Saint of sailors and fishermen.

I walked out onto the adjacent pier for a closer look at these bright red fishing boats,

and over on the town’s waterfront promenade, people were strolling, dining at restaurants, and enjoying the sea view from conveniently-placed benches.

I returned to my accommodation, having planned to buy groceries at a nearby market, but it was closed unexpectedly so I was forced to dine at a casual and friendly eatery. Not a problem! I returned to my apartment, and as it neared sunset, I decided to walk the short trail that led from the Secret Garden down to the sea. And, just two minutes later, I was here!

A wide stone-paved path led, in just a few more minutes, up to Windmill Row! It was a surprise short cut!

I walked across to Little Venice,

where people were gathering for a drink or a meal and to watch the sunset.

I chose a quieter spot, by the windmills, to watch the event,

as did this kitty, very like my cat Comet, who watched the sunset from, what I now called, “my chapel”.

It had been a great first day, on my first Greek island, in charming and beautiful Mykonos.

Greece, Spring 2025

Delphi Archaeological Site and Museum – The Centre of the World!

Delphi, home of the Oracle, was considered to be the centre of the world by the ancient Greeks and was their most important gathering place. According to Greek mythology, Zeus released two eagles from opposite ends of the earth and determined that where they met, here at Delphi, was the “naval” of the earth. Apollo was worshipped here at the temple and sanctuary that were built in his honour, and it was believed that a prophetess, known as the Oracle or the Pythia, could act as an intermediary between Apollo and the pilgrims who came seeking his advice. Delphi was visited by pilgrims from all over Greece and from distant lands. Socrates came here, as well as the Kings Midas and Croesus, and also Pluto, Plutarch, the Emperor Nero, and Alexander the Great, among others. I made my approach to the site as they all would have done, rising up along the Sacred Way. My first stop was to view what remains of the Roman Agora, with its typical Roman brickwork,

and then I passed the Treasury of Athens which was one of a number of treasuries at Delphi that stored the gold, jewels, ivory statues, bronze objects, and other valuables that were brought to Delphi as gifts to the gods.

The treasuries were built by kings and powerful city states as thanks to the gods for their successes, often in war. The Athenian treasury, for example, was built to commemorate the Athenian victory over the Persians at the Battle of Marathon in 490 BC.

Here are the slender Ionic columns which were once part of the 100-foot-long Athenian stoa, and the large Doric columns of the Temple of Apollo are visible on the terrace above.

This is the entrance to the grand Temple of Apollo where pilgrims, accompanied by priests, would enter to consult the Oracle. The lowest price of admission was a loaf of bread, while some sacrificed an animal, some gave items of great value, and some granted freedom to a slave or slaves. One hundred bulls would be sacrificed to open the Pythian games.

Here is a view from the far end of the temple which measured almost sixty metres long and which housed a giant golden statue of Apollo. The Temple was the centrepiece of Delphi, and a place of centuries-old religious ritual and ceremony.

I made my way up to Delphi’s 5,000 seat theatre, taking photos back to Apollo’s temple as I went.

I loved how the gray stones and reddish columns of the temple echo the colours of the surrounding mountains.

I reached the theatre,

and continued higher,

and higher,

and all the way up and around to the centre top of the theatre for this amazing view of Delphi.

What a stunning setting! I continued up several more terraced levels,

to rise to the site of Delphi’s stadium which I had seen from above on my hike the previous day. There is a 700 foot elevation gain from the entrance of the archaeological site up to the stadium!

The stadium could seat 7,000, with special seating for the judges in the centre. Every four years Delphi hosted the Pythian games, which were second only to the games held in Olympia. Athletes and spectators came from all over Greece to watch the week-long sporting competitions that were held during the middle of a three-month truce between the often warring Greek city-states.

My climb to the top done, I slowly made my way back down and then stopped halfway to sit for a long while in the sun and speak with a fellow from the U.K. who had been on the bus with me. A gardener who loves plants, history, and sacred spaces like stone circles and pilgrimage sites, we were rather like kindred spirits! We talked about some of the local trees, flowers, and herbs, and I recommended that he do the E4 hike above the town. A little later, I met a German couple who, like me, were photographing flowers, and when I mentioned the E4 hike they broke into big smiles as they had already done the hike. “The bees! The butterflies!”, they exclaimed. Here are some of the glorious Spring flowers that made my visit to the ruins of Delphi even more special.

I took my time as I descended, reading information panels and taking more photos, including this new view of the Temple of Apollo.

The rectangular column on the right is the Pillar of Prusias II which was once topped by a statue of a Turkish king who travelled here to consult the oracle. All of Delphi was studded with statues and with tall pillars and columns topped by large and impressive sculptures, such as the Acanthus Column of Dancers or the Sphinx of Naxos (both in the museum). The Greek city states would try to outdo each other with the monuments that they gifted to Delphi in order to enhance their prestige and demonstrate their wealth and power.

I was thrilled with my visit to the Delphi Archaeological site and I decided to go back to my hotel for a break before viewing the museum. As I entered the town, I stopped once more to look at this stunning view down into the valley.

I took out my phone to take a photo to text to Brent, but my 20 Euro admission ticket, which I still needed to enter the museum, came out of my purse with my phone and, caught by the wind, it fluttered down over the stone wall to land twenty feet below. “Oh no, no, no, no, no!” I cried as I watched it fall.

A young lad came immediately over to help. The wall wasn’t scalable, so he walked several hundred metres down the road to gain access to the hill, and then he waded through high meadow grasses on a steep slope to rescue my ticket. I tried to offer him 10 Euro as thanks, but he refused, and he smiled a big smile when I called him a hero.

Back at the hotel, my break lasted longer than expected as an afternoon thunderstorm developed and brought heavy rain. I was so glad that I had visited the archaeological site early in the morning!

The rain did not let up so I finally dug out my rain jacket and umbrella and made my way to the museum in the late afternoon where I had the place almost entirely to myself. It was a wonderful museum, beautifully presented. Here are several of the larger statues that were found at Delphi: the Sphinx of Naxos, gifted by the Naxians around 570 BC, and the Twin Kouros statues gifted by the town of Argos, c. 600-580 BC.

Here are the remains of a frieze from the east side of the Siphnian Treasury (gifted by the island of Siphnos). It depicts a battle between Apollo and Heracles for the possession of the tripod of Delphi upon which the Oracle sat.

This is a close up of the two gods each pulling on the tripod,

and this is a famous detail from the north frieze, of the same treasury, which depicts a battle between the Greek gods and a race of Giants.

There were smaller items on display as well in the museum, and two of my favourites were the Mycenaean figurines (1400-1050 BC), and a beautifully illustrated plate featuring a seated Apollo, crowned with myrtle leaves, pouring wine and holding his lyre.

As I left the museum, the rain had slowed to a trickle so I decided to take a walk down the road to view the Sanctuary of Athena (the columns in the distance) and the gymnasium where athletes trained for the Pythian games (to the left).

The Sanctuary of Athena was closed when I got there, and the site was obscured by trees, so I walked a good distance farther on the road in order to get this view from the other side. It was the best shot I could manage!

As I began the return walk, the rain stopped altogether, the sky began to clear, and the sun shone as I passed the Kastalian Spring where the pilgrims to Delphi would wash to purify themselves before consulting the oracle. The spring originates in a dramatic cleft of rock.

As I rose back up to the town, I looked back to see that a rainbow had formed over the valley.

I had not brought any valuable gifts or grand tributes with me to Delphi, but it had certainly gifted me with its stunning ruins, its long and fascinating history, and its absolutely spectacular landscape and views.

Thank you Delphi!

Greece, Spring 2025

An Easy Day in Athens, and then Off to Delphi! – Lycabettus Hill, The Acropolis at Night, Delphi, and the E4 Trail Wildflower Hike

On my last full day in Athens I woke up late and feeling tired. Jet lag was finally catching up with me, I think. I had quite a few things planned for the day, and I wasn’t sure which to keep and how to revise my plans. Finally, I decided that I definitely wanted to climb Lycabettus Hill, even though I’d missed the early morning light, so off I went. The walk from my accommodation took about 20 minutes, with peeks up at Lycabettus as I neared.

After some very steep streets, I reached the base of the hill and then the steps started.

The path, mostly stairs, was paved the entire way as it zig zagged up the hill, and it was not long before wonderful views to the Acropolis opened up.

The view grew even wider as I rose higher. In the photo below, I love the green sweep of the Ancient Agora that spills off to the right of the Acropolis. You can just see the Agora’s Temple of Hephaestus at the very right edge of the photo amongst the trees.

After more stairs, I reached the top where there is a bell tower and the tiny white Church of Agios Georgios which dates to 1870. It was a quicker climb than expected! There is also a restaurant at the top, and for those who do not wish to make the climb there is a funicular that rises up on the other side of the hill.

I enjoyed the views of Athens, and the brisk refreshing wind at the top. I took yet more photos of the Acropolis, and also of views across Athens to the northeast,

and towards the Panathenaic stadium which is located in the Pangrati neighbourhood, not far from my accommodation. The 50,000 seat stadium was built in 144 AD, entirely of marble, on the site of a much older stadium, and it was excavated and restored for the first modern Olympic games in 1896.

I then began my descent, very happy to have made the climb, but my tiredness returned in a wave as soon as I reached the bottom of the hill. It was getting hot and muggy, and both my body and brain were asking for a rest, so I decided to return to my apartment rather than continue with visits to the Benaki Museum of Greek Culture, and the Archaeological Site of the Lyceum of Aristotle, as I had planned. In the end, I did not make it to either place. I rested, ate, did laundry, sorted through photos, and finally got started with a blog post. Twice in the afternoon, as I enjoyed my quiet time in the apartment, heavy rain fell on my balcony as thunder showers passed over the city. Luckily for me, though, those showers ended by early evening and I felt rested enough to set out to climb Filopappou Hill for a second time in order to see the Acropolis at sunset, and also at night when it is lit with floodlights. It was fun to climb up wooded Filopappou again, and I settled onto a stone seat with this view as I waited for sunset.

However, the glowing light of a sunset never materialized, as there were heavy clouds low in the west, but I was happy conversing with two young French women who were travelling around Europe for six months. We talked travel, and when I mentioned that Mykonos was my next destination they informed me that the thunderstorms and heavy rain of the previous day had caused serious flooding on the islands of Paros and Mykonos, and that tourists were being asked to stay away. Oh dear, but I would worry about that later. We contined to talk until a chill wind began and the French girls left. I retreated to the leeward side of Filopappou to get out of that wind, sat on the ground, and enjoyed the views west towards Piraeus as the sky gradually darkened and street lights began to turn on.

I rose back to the top of the hill several times to peek over to the Acropolis until finally the floodlights were lit!

Then I stayed a little while longer, until the sky was a darker blue/black, for these last photos from my first stay in historic Athens.

The next morning, after negotiating crowded city buses and the metro, I said goodbye to Athens and travelled by coach bus to Delphi to see the famous archaeological site there. I enjoyed the rural scenery on the three hour journey northwest, especially as we began to climb up into the mountains. Soon the mountain scenery turned dramatic, as we rounded the shoulder of Mt. Parnassus, and then switchbacked several times down its steep southern slope to arrive at the mountainside town of Delphi which is in walking distance to the archaeological site and museum. I was happy to stretch my legs after the bus ride as I walked up the steep road to my accommodation at the family-run Castri Hotel. I loved it there! Very reasonably priced, at only 50 Euro per night including breakfast, I had a spacious room with my own small balcony.

And this was my view! All the way down the valley to the Gulf of Corinth!

Here is another view, looking over the rooftops, towards the church at the centre of town. Look at those mountains!

I was thrilled! I sat in the sun on my balcony and enjoyed my simple packed lunch. The hotel was quiet, and there was no one else on the other balconies. It was just me, and the view, and the swooping swallows. Heaven! But, I had a hike to do, so I set off to find the trailhead of the E4 trail located above the town. The E4 is a long European trail that runs all the way from Portugal to Cypress, and it passes through the town of Delphi. I would be walking on the ancient footpath that pilgrims from northern Greece would have used to reach Delphi in ancient times. I climbed up to the highest street of the town via several steep staircases like this one,

and then walked down that street a short distance to arrive at this beautiful and auspicious-looking start to the trail! Wow!

The wildflowers were amazing, and there were so many honey bees and butterflies flying from flower to flower. It was gorgeous!

And this was now the view down over the town to the Gulf of Corinth!

I began the climb and reached this view down to the ancient gymnasium of Delphi, located at the top of the archaeological site. This is where games and races were held when the citizens of the Greek city states met each year at Delphi. (Notice the road that our bus drove in on!)

Here is a zoomed in view of the gymnasium after I rose a little higher. The athletes would enter through the three stone archways at the far end of the field, while spectators sat in the stands.

I continued upwards, past some ruins,

and then higher to marvellous views up the valley,

and down towards the sea.

Then, I was clearly climbing on the ancient stepped pathway as it rose up the mountainside,

with views back over the small ridge that had led me to this point.

It was all so beautiful and exciting! I climbed perhaps another kilometre on the E4, and then doubled back to find the junction that would loop me back down to the town. I didn’t want to leave, though, and stopped again and again to admire my surroundings and the wonderful plants and scenery all around.

Eventually, I reached the street, descended the staircases, said hello to several cats, stopped to admire some lilacs,

and then returned to my room to rest and enjoy more views from my balcony. Later, hunger sent me back out into the town to check out its many restaurants. At the lowest street, I stopped for this view looking straight down into the deep valley.

While doing my trip planning, I didn’t realize that the E4 continues from Delphi down into the valley below where it follows the ancient pilgrims’ path all the way to the sea, a distance of about thirteen kilometres. If I had known that, I would definitely have booked a third night in Delphi in order to do that hike, down to the sea and the city of Itea (known in ancient times as the harbour of Krissa), and then back up to Delphi by bus. I will just have to come back!

I continued looking for an inexpensive pita wrap to take back to my hotel, but in the end I decided to splurge on a rare sit down dinner at the wonderful Bakhos restaurant. Bread, olive tapenade, wine, and cabbage rolls stuffed with beef and rice, and smothered in a rich lemon sauce – it was a true celebration in the spirit of a mountainside pilgrimage to Delphi!

I loved this town, and this view,

and I looked forward to my next day’s visit to the archaeological site of Delphi, the mythological centre of the Ancient Greek world. Goodnight from Delphi.

Greece, Spring 2025

A Fabulous Day Trip to the Peloponnese Peninsula – The Corinth Canal, Ancient Mycenae, Nafplio, and the Epidaurus Theatre and Sanctuary

For my third full day in Athens I had booked an all-day bus tour to the Peloponnese peninsula, principally to see the ancient fortress of Mycenae. The tour also included a quick stop to photograph the Corinth Canal, a lunch stop in the lovely seaside town of Nafplio, and a visit to the ancient theatre and sanctuary at Epidaurus. I woke early feeling tired, and then disappointed as I registered the sound of heavy rain falling on my small balcony. The previous muggy days had portended thunder showers and they had arrived! I briefly considered staying in bed and not going (the tour was “rain or shine”), but once up and organized I was ready to carry on. I had a rain jacket and an umbrella, and much of our time would be spent on the bus as the distances were significant. I need not have worried though, as by the time I arrived at the meeting point, the rain had slowed to a trickle. It would continue to come and go all day, but fortunately for us on the tour it fell mostly while we were driving, and cleared for almost all of our stops!

Our first stop was at the amazing Corinth Canal. This 6.4 km long canal divides the Peloponnese peninsula from the rest of the Greek mainland. It was constructed between 1881 and 1893 in order for ships to move from the Agean Sea to the Ionian Sea, instead of having to sail all the way around the Peloponnese, thus saving a journey of over 700 kilometres. The idea for a canal was not new as the Romans under Nero commenced work on a canal in 67 AD, but they abandoned the project soon afterwards. And, an amazing 700 years earlier than the Romans, the Corinthian ruler Periander had commenced to dig a canal. He too gave up the idea, and instead he constructed a “road” of rolling logs on which to portage ships across the narrow Isthmus of Corinth. Today’s canal is 6.4 kilometres long, 80.7 metres wide, and its rock walls rise 90 metres above sea level. It was quite something to see!

From there we began our drive to Mycenae and were soon on wonderful curving and scenic roads that passed between rugged hills and green valleys full of olive trees and pines. Ancient Mycenae is a hilltop fortress that was the capital city of the Mycenaeans, Bronze Age Greeks who dominated the Peloponnese between the 16th and 12th centuries BC, and who extended their influence across the Agean. Here is a first view as I neared the fortress,

and here is a view of its famous Lion Gate that guards the entrance.

It is set in a wall that was forty feet high and twenty feet thick, and was built of enormous blocks of stone that weigh 5-10 tons each! The heads of the carved stone lions are missing, but one imagines that they might have faced incomers with an imperious and warning gaze. The lintel above the gate weighs eighteen tons! I entered the gate and immediately off to the right was the site of the Circle Grave A which contained six graves.

Archaeologists discovered nineteen bodies of men, women, and children buried here, with weapons, ornate staffs, gold and silver cups, and gold jewellery.

They also found five golden death masks, one of which is known as the Death Mask of Agamemnon, the legendary ruler of Mycenae and attacker of Troy. Here is a reproduction of his death mask housed in the onsite museum, and I will see the original in Athens at the National Archaeological Museum on my last day in Athens.

We only had 70 minutes to tour the site and museum (rather than the 90 minutes promised) as it had taken so long to get through the traffic of Athens, but that was okay. I was just happy to absorb the dramatic setting of the site on a rocky hill and between two tall, imposing mountains. There were views down the valley all the way to the sea,

and up the valley to distant mountains.

But, my favourite view was towards the back of the fortress looking towards a pass between the two mountains. I wanted to head to that pass and walk there for miles!

The back part of the fortress featured the ruins of houses, store rooms, and workshops, as well as a stone staircase leading down to a cistern which stored water sourced from springs on the hillside. It was fun to go down and then up.

Also near the back of the fortress was the North Gate which was built of massive stones and fit with a heavy wooden door.

I rose back up to the summit of the fortress,

and then made my way to the museum, stopping often to admire the profusion of wildflowers growing around the site.

The museum showcases some of the artefacts that were found when Mycenae was first discovered and excavated in the 1870s. Here are a few examples of the fine pottery, jewellery, and bronze tools that were on display. (You can click on any photo for a close up if you like.)

A short distance away from the fortress is the Treasury of Atreus, one of two massive beehive-shaped burial chambers that were also discovered here. The impressive entrance passage is 20 feet wide and 110 feet long,

and the round interior chamber, with a corbelled dome roof, is 47 feet in diameter and 42 feet tall!

Notice the enormous stone lintel over the doorway- it is 26 feet long, 16 feet deep, and 3 feet high, and it weighs an amazing 120 tons!

Here is my last view, from the Treasury of Atreus, towards the Mycenaean fortress, camouflaged on its hilltop, with one of its two guardian mountains towering behind.

Then we were off to Nafplio, a seaside town that features three 14th century Venetian fortresses. There are Mycenaean ruins of their port city, Tiryn, nearby, and Nafplio was also the first capital of the modern state of Greece before the capital moved to Athens. Here is the first Venetian fortress, Bourtzi, located dramatically in the middle of Nafplio’s harbour!

I headed to the distant promenade,

for closer views of Bourtzi,

and there were also great views to the hilltop Palamidi Fortress that is reached by climbing over 900 steps. The third Venetian fortress is located on the nearer hill.

I hope to spend several days in historic Nafplio on a future trip to Greece in order to explore those fortresses and also explore Tiryn. But, today there was only time for a quick lunch, and a stroll through some of the streets and alleyways of the old town where many of the colourful Venetian-built buildings cater to visiting tourists with cafes, tavernas, and gift shops.

By the time I returned to the harbour, dark clouds had moved in,

and thunder boomed from across the water where sheets of rain fell.

We boarded the bus and headed to our last stop, Epidaurus, which was a famous centre of healing in Ancient times and known as the Sanctuary of Asclepius who was the god of medicine. Epidaurus is famous for its well-preserved theatre (c. 300 BC) which is built into the side of a forested hill and which has exceptional acoustics where a whisper on the stage can be heard from the highest seats above.

I climbed midway up the steps and turned for views,

and then I rose to the highest level and circled around to the centre for views down over the theatre and out to the mountain scenery beyond. Wow!

I continued around to the far side, and the following photo is one of my favourite shots of the day. I call it, “Three Human Figures”.

The rain started as I began to descend the steps and so I made my way to the small museum,

and then, dry under my umbrella, I toured the grounds of the sanctuary which once featured mineral baths, housing for the sick, temples, alters, a gymnasium, and the theatre. Today, there are scant remains left of those structures, but I felt the healing atmosphere of the place with its mountain scenery, green expanses, trees and flowers.

We reboarded the bus and made a final and bonus stop a short while later at a scenic overlook above the town of Epidaurus. Our charming and excellent tour leader, George, kindly took my photo.

The ride from here to the Corinth Canal was fabulous! I was glad to be sitting on the right side of the bus as we drove the sinuous road along the coast high above the sea. It was a little scary at times, (the thin metal guardrail looked insufficient to its task!), but very beautiful and exciting, and I would love to visit the Peloponnese again to drive that road, revisit today’s sights at a slower place, and also visit more sites like Argos and Sparta. We recrossed the Corinth Canal (such an amazing blue colour!), regained the freeway, and then drove towards and into a thunderstorm that pummelled us with heavy rain. The clouds were black and I saw an electric bolt flash across the entire sky. It was the biggest bolt of lightning that I have ever seen, and the loud boom of thunder followed immediately afterwards. Little did I know that intermittent thunderstorms would be the weather pattern for the following days, but luckily for me none were as fierce as what we drove through on this day. The storm settled down as we approached Athens, and only a few drops of rain were still falling as I excited the bus and said goodbye to George and the others. It had been a fabulous full-day tour, almost eleven hours, and I was so grateful that I had made myself get up and go. Thank you for following me on this exceptional day!

PS – I took my tour with the Open Top Bus Hellas company at a very reasonable low-season rate.

Greece – Spring, 2025

Athen’s Ancient Agora, and a Trio of Historical Hills to Climb

On my second full day in Athens I headed to the Ancient Agora which was the centre of Athen’s commercial, social and political life for some 800 years, from about 600 BC to 300 AD. Agora means “gathering space” and this agora featured shops, piazzas, theatres, temples, tavernas, altars, and government housing, offices, and meeting halls where ministers, elected by the free adult male citizens of Athens, met to debate, make, and oversee the administration of laws. The two main roads of Athens met here: the principal east/west road, which led to the busy Athenian port of Piraeus, and the Panathenaic Way (below), which ran north/south and led towards and up onto the Acropolis.

During its heyday, the Agora thronged with people running their businesses, shopping, visiting theatres and temples, and attending speeches, demonstrations and celebrations. Socrates philosophized here, Plato and Aristotle taught here, and Sophocles produced plays here. Today though, the Agora is a large, quiet, and peaceful expanse of green, marked mostly by the foundations of grand buildings long since gone. There are some notable exceptions, however, the most obvious being the Temple of Hephaistos which I had seen from a distance when up on the Acropolis. It is beautifully set on a low rise and its gorgeous golden colour is complemented by the greenery of the surrounding trees.

I headed towards the temple, but first I stopped to photograph the surviving remnants of what were once six large sculptures that acted as columns for the Odeon of Agrippa, a large theatre built during the Roman period.

The Temple of Haphaistos is one of the best preserved Greek temples. Similar to, but smaller than the Parthenon, it was built around 350 BC in the Doric style. Here, Athenians worshiped Hephaistos, the blacksmith god, as well as Athena as the patroness of arts and crafts.

From in front of the temple, there were great views across the Agora to the Acropolis,

and, in the other direction, across to the reconstructed Stoa of Attalos, which is the long colonnaded building on the right in the photo below. Lycabettus Hill rises dramatically in the distant background.

I was happy to be in such a peaceful green space, and I strolled the site lazily, occasionaly reading information panels, and looking up to the Acropolis often. It really draws the eye! I enjoyed the feeling of space, the trees and flowers, and the pleasing geometry of the ruins and its the blocks and cylinders of stone.

At the far end of the Agora I came upon the Church of the Holy Apostles which was built in the year 1000 AD on the site of an ancient temple and spring. It is built in the Byzantine style, in the shape of a Greek cross, and with a central dome, and it was dedicated to St. Paul who preached Christianity in the Agora and on the nearby Areopagus Hill.

Scattered around and near the church were many pieces of carved stone and I stopped to admire and photograph some of them.

I then made my way to the Stoa of Attola which is a reconstruction that was built in the 1950s on the plan of the original stoa from 150 BC. The stoa had covered walkways and housed shops on its first floor and offices on its second. The covered porch is about 400 feet long and today is lined with statues of gods, heroes, and athletes that were once located on the grounds of the agora.

Here is a view down the inside length of the covered porch from beyond the first set of columns,

and then the second. So elegant!

The stoa houses the Agora’s museum and I enjoyed perusing the cases, many of which held pottery. The Athenians were skilled at the craft and traded their wares widely. The cases were arranged chronologically and showed the development of different styles of pottery over the centuries (from left to right, an amphora and jar from 1500 BC, pieces from the Early and Late Geometric Periods (850 BC, and 700 BC), and finely decorated black on red pottery from c. 500 BC).

There were other kinds of artefacts displayed as well, such as glass items and gold jewellery from the Roman period,

and objects that represented the political life of the Agora, including a special machine called a Kleroteria which was used to randomly select which citizens had to do jury duty and other state duties, and a simple water clock made of two pottery bowls that timed speeches at council meetings – six minutes and you were done! The case on the right shows pottery fragments with names scratched upon them by Athenians who were voting to ostracize fellow citizens who were corrupt or acted as tyrants.

I exited the museum and stoa, and walked along the row of column fragments that mark the site of what was once the 500 foot long Middle Stoa,

and then I found a quiet shaded bench among the trees and sat for a good long while, reluctant to leave the Agora. But, it was nearing noon, and time to move on as I had hills to climb. I exited the Agora onto the pedestrian Adrianou street which is lined with tavernas, cafes, ice cream shops, and souvenir stalls. It was jam-packed with tourists and locals alike, with many Greek families out for lunch and a stroll. I managed to find a quiet corner in one of the less-busy tavernas and enjoyed a tasty falafel wrap for lunch. Then, I headed up the even busier Ag. Asomaton street where I dodged tourists and shoppers that were perusing the arts and crafts and flea market stalls of the Thisseo market. People seemed happy, on this sunny Sunday, and I guess this scene was not very unlike what the Agora might have looked and felt like centuries ago. But, crowds are not for me, and I was very happy to find the entrance into the park-like grounds that surround Aeropaggus Hill. Ahhh, a pleasing and auspicious start to my climb!

Unfortunately, graffiti tags marred parts of the historic hill, but the scenery was still stunning. (Like Paris and Naples, Athens has a lot of graffiti which I cannot abide.)

Thousands upon thousands of footfalls over time have made the rock of this outcropping polished and slippery, and even with my hiking boots I had to be careful of my steps. I stopped halfway up to turn and take in the view over the Agora below,

and across towards Plaka and Lycabettus HIll.

Then I climbed to the very top, where the Apostle Paul is said to have delivered a famous sermon, for this view of the Acropolis!

Here is a zoomed in view of the Propylaea gate and the Temple of Athena Nike, and I sat for a short while and watched an endless stream of visitors make their way up the stone steps.

I descended Areopagus Hill and stopped halfway down to assess the three low hills to the west of me that comprise the “Archaeological Site of Hills of the Muses (Philopappos), Pynx, and Nymph.” I decided to save the furthest, Nymph Hill, for another day and I set my eyes on Pynx Hill across from me to the west,

and on Philopappou Hill, the tallest of the three, and topped by a large frieze depicting the Muses.

At the base of Pynx Hill there was a map that showed the locations of more than 25 historic sites that are scattered over the three hills. I only photographed one historic spot on Pynx Hill, the speaker’s platform. This was the meeting place of the ancient Assembly, from between the 5th and 4th centuries BC, where Athenian citizens came to orate, debate, and vote on laws and customs.

But, I was no longer in the mood for history as I was diverted by the lovely hillside paths, trees, flowers, and the views all around.

Mostly though I was diverted by views of the Acropolis! Here are only two, from slightly different vantage points, and as the sky changed over time, of the probably twenty photos that I took!

I loved being on those hills and I seriously considered walking back down Filopappou, and up and over Pynx, to then climb up Nymph Hill and include it in my day. But, I still had a lengthy walk home, and I decided that my Sunday had already been full enough. It had been another wonderful day in historic Athens!

Greece, Spring 2025

A Monumental First Day (Literally)! The Acropolis, Hadrian’s Arch, The Temple of Olympian Zeus, The Roman Forum and Tower of the Winds, and a quintet of historic Athenian churches

After a very long day and night of travel without sleep, I arrived tired but still happy at my small airbnb in the Pangrati neighbourhood near the centre of Athens. I settled in, and then retired early for a good long sleep. Doves were cooing outside my window at dawn, and I awoke refreshed and excited – I was off to see the Acropolis this morning! The thirty minute walk first took me through the welcoming green space of the National Gardens. I passed the Zappeion Hall which was built in the 1880s for use as an exhibition hall and as a ceremonial space for the first modern Olympic Games.

The park was quiet and peaceful, and the air was scented with pine and the perfume of orange trees in blossom. There were also big ripe oranges on those trees, and I was surprised and delighted when a small flock of green parrots flew overhead! Out of the park, I turned to walk along busy Vassilissis Amalias Avenue where I passed these Roman Bath ruins.

Athens was under Roman occupation and rule for nearly 500 years beginning in the 1st century BC. I next reached Hadrian’s Arch which was built by the emperor Hadrian in 131 AD. The Acropolis hill is framed in the centre of the arch, visible in the distance behind the white building.

And, near to the arch are the grounds of the Temple of Olympian Zeus which was begun in the mid-500s BC by the Greeks, but was not completed until some 700 years later by the Romans under Hadrian. It was the largest temple ever built in Greece and featured 104 colossal columns, each more than fifty feet high. Now, only 14 columns remain, most of which are currently surrounded by scaffolding as conservation work takes place (to the left in the photo below).

Soon I reached the pedestrian street that curves from east to west along the base of Acropolis Hill. Here are some of my first views up to the Parthenon and then up to the Temple of Athena Nike.

I continued around to enter the Acropolis from the west gate and enroute I passed the back wall of the Odeon of Herodes Atticus, a 5,000-seat amphitheatre which was built during the Roman era. The theatre was reconstructed in the 1950s and hosts music, dance, and theatre performances every summer. I was able to peek into the theatre, and later view it from above when I was atop the Acropolis.

Soon I reached the west gate where others were already waiting for our 8 a.m. entry time. Tickets to the Acropolis now have timed entries in order to limit the overcrowding that has plagued the site, and luckily for me guests with printed paper tickets were let in before those with tickets on their phones so I was one of the first to be let in! It was exciting to climb up the curving, marble-lined path, and then to arrive at the steep stairs that lead up to the grand Propylaea entrance gate.

The two photos on the right above were taken later in the morning after the hazy sky had cleared to a beautiful blue. I love the photo below of the tiny but beautiful Temple of Athena Nike, with its elegant Ionic columns, which is located to the right of the grand entrance gate.

This is my first photo of the Parthenon, considered by many to be the finest temple of the ancient world. Built between 447 and 438 BC, at the highest point on the Acropolis hill, the temple was dedicated to Athena and also served as a treasury of Athens.

And, here are later photos of the Parthenon, from after the haze cleared and from different vantage points. The white sections on the columns are where restorations have been made using marble that comes from the same quarry as the original stone. They will become golden-coloured with time. (A reminder that you can click on any photo to see an enlargement.)

The Erechtheion is another temple on the Acropolis and was built soon after the Parthenon, between 421 and 406. Dedicated to both Athena and Poseidon, this temple features Ionic columns and the Porch of the Caryatids. The Caryatids are six elegant female sculptures that act as structural supports. They are said to be modeled after the noble women of Karyai, near Sparta.

The Acropolis (which means “high city”) has been been in use for many thousands of years, including as a fortress for the Myceneans in the 14th century BC. It is a natural fortress site, with its 100 foot high sheer cliffs and its far-reaching views across the land and to the sea. Here is a view from the eastern end of the Acropolis, looking across towards Lycabettus Hill, Athen’s tallest. Modern Athens, a city of more than three million, sprawls off into the distance in this and every direction.

Here is a view looking to the northwest. The large green space is the site of the Ancient Agora, with the temple of Hephaestus clearly visible near its centre.

This is a view from the south side of the Acropolis, looking down to the Theatre of Dionyisus and beyond.

And, here is a zoomed-in shot of the Theatre of Dionysus which seated 17,000 persons.

Finally, here is the view to the west, looking across to wooded Filopappos Hill and beyond to the Agean Sea (just barely visible on the horizon in my photo).

I was so lucky to be atop the Acropolis while the site was not yet crowded, and I managed to take many people-free photos. I do like this photo though,

as the line of incoming visitors gives a small hint of what it might have been like during the times of the Panathenaic Festivals when a long procession of Athenians would rise up onto the Acropolis to bring gifts and make sacrifices to honour the goddess Athena.

I exited the Acropolis from the south gate and briefly considered visiting the new and striking Acropolis Museum which houses statuary, reliefs, and other artefacts rescued from the site, but it was a fine day and I decided to save that visit for another time. I continued along the pedestrian path near the base of the Acropolis and around to the north side. On my left was the lovely green expanse of the Ancient Agora, and then I arrived at views of the ruins of the Roman Forum below. Beautiful!

On the edge of the ruins was the Tower of the Winds, an octagonal structure built around 50 BC that functioned as one of the world’s first known clock towers. Equipped on the exterior with a weather vane and sundials, inside there was a sophisticated water clock which allowed for accurate measurements of time!

Next, I passed the ruins of Hadrian’s Library,

and from there, I explored several of the small streets and alleyways of the Plaka neighbourhood that are filled with tavernas, cafes, and tourist shops. Typically very busy in the evenings, and at the height of the tourist season, they were still quiet on this day before noon.

I was headed towards Syntagma Square when I came upon the 11th century Kapnikarea church which is located in a small square and encircled by high-end shops and hotels. It is one of Athen’s oldest churches.

It was very atmospheric and I sat for a while to admire the domed cieling, the symmetry of the architecture, and the artistry of the woodworking and paintings. Then I rested outside in the sun next to the church and consulted my map. A cathedral was close by so I decided to visit there, but I went in the wrong direction and arrived at another church instead. The Temple of Agia Irini is a very beautiful church, and it was incredibly peaceful inside, with no other visitors and with the lovely smell of incense in the air. The light shone brightly through deeply-colored stained glass.

I then consulted my map again and easily found my way to the Mitropolis Cathedral located just a few blocks away. Built in the mid 19th century, the cathedral is situated on a large and pleasing square. Like the previous churches, its interior was elaborately ornate and highly decorated with frescoes, gilded paintings, and also many images and objects made of hammered silver.

Located beside the cathedral was the teeny tiny Church of Theotokos Gorgoepikoos. Built on the site of an ancient temple, this 12th century church was constructed using stones and ancient carved stone reliefs found from sites around Athens. I loved this tiny, simple, and very elegant church which can fit only about a dozen worshippers shoulder to shoulder. As in the cathedral, some of the visitors who entered here crossed themselves and lit candles as a way to honour loved ones or to send their prayers.

I continued to Syntagma Square, first to buy a sim card for my phone, and then to view the Greek Parliament buildings and the changing of the guard. It took awhile to set up the phone, I was beginning to feel tired, and Syntagma Square was now very busy with people and traffic including many huge tourist buses. I could see the start of the National Gardens park off to my right and it looked much more appealing than being amongst the crowds so I decided to head that way and return home for an afternoon rest.

A block from my accommodation I came across yet another beautiful church, the Church of Saint Spyridon Stadio, built in 1903 in the Byzantine style.

I was glad to have entered, but I was now more than ready for my rest! Thankfully, my accommodation was cool, quiet, and homey – a perfect place for my five night stay in Athens. I had a good rest, and then I explored my local neighbourhhood, bought groceries, cooked up a pasta dinner, and celebrated with a glass of Greek wine. It had been a fabulous first day in Athens, with so many ancient monuments to see and learn about, and also many beautiful and historic churches to discover. I went to sleep greatly looking forward to the days ahead!

I’m off to Greece!

March 25, 2025

Hello readers. I’ve been doing a bit of sewing, altering some thrift store items suitable to wear on a Spring trip to Greece!

I leave this week and will visit Athens, Delphi, Mycenae, Nafplio, Epidaurus, and four Cycladic islands with their iconic white-washed houses, blue-domed churches, olive groves, and golden sand beaches: Mykonos, Naxos, Santorini and Amorgos.

While there, I look forward to creating several blog posts with plenty of photos, but, this time, with very little text and historical details (which I know some of you will welcome and some of you will miss!). Unfortunately, my mini iPad 4 is too old for the newest system updates, and that has made WordPress (upon which my blog is built) almost impossible to use. (I wrote my recent very text-heavy post about my last days in Shetland on another device at home.) Hopefully the technical difficulties will not worsen, and I will be able to create some posts to continue sharing my travels with you all. See you in Greece!