Glorious Hillside Hikes from Lagada, Amorgos – Greece, Spring 2025

Lagada to Tholaria and Ancient Aegiali Hike, Lagada to the Monastery of Agios Ioannis Theologos Hike, Cliffside Agia Triada, and Aegiali Bay, Beach, and Village

I travelled once again in Dina’s taxi, this time from the village of Chora, Amorgos, to the village of Lagada, located about thirty minutes north, and located on a hillside overlooking Aegiali and its bay and valley. I was again very lucky to have an early check in, at yet another fabulous accommodation, Armonia Studios. This was my charming room with an excellent kitchenette and private balcony!

I had shopped for my groceries before leaving Chora as the following day was Easter, so after dropping everything off I headed out right away on a walk of about 8 kilometres from hillside Lagada, to hillside Tholaria on the other side of the valley, and from there to Ancient Aegiali. It was another beautiful day as I walked into the centre of the village, found the main church,

and then found the long staircase that was the beginning of my hike to Tholaria. This was my view, from the staircase, to my destination on the opposite side of the valley.

The staircase led towards the head of the valley to a trail that dropped down into a ravine, and then rose back up and passed through the tiny community of Strombous (with no mains water or electricity).

Then the trail rose higher up on the hillside, and began its long curve around the head of the valley.

There were fabulous views down the valley to Aegaeli Bay in the distance,

and back towards Lagada. In the photo below you can just make out the old windmills on a ridge high above the village. What work and effort it must have been to build all of these terraces, grow the grain, build and maintain the windmills and hillside paths, and transport the grain to and from the mills!

It was a brilliant walk, easy and scenic. Flowers lined the trail, and there were now also views to the sea on the other side of the island. A short trail in that direction led past fenced farm fields to a small chapel.

After that, the trail curved around to the other side of the valley,

and became an ancient stone-paved path that led all the way around and up to Tholaria.

There were so many small lizards along that south-facing stone path, bright and iridescent green, but they were just too quick to photograph! I entered the village of Tholaria which has a population of about 150 but a very large church!

I didn’t linger, though several cafes looking appealing, as I was intent on visiting Ancient Aegiali, visible on the hilltop in the distance.

The path led me past a large and active farm, noisy with goats and chickens, where the terraces were planted with some kind of legume, and dotted with red poppies and yellow and white crown daisies.

Here is a zoomed in view of Tholaria, across the way.

The trail on the approach to Ancient Aegiali, between farm fences, was overgrown with vegetation, and it looked like no one had walked this path for some time.

I climbed up onto the rocky outcrop, with its jumble of stone fences and parts of a former defensive wall. There were no interpretive signs to make sense of this citadel of ruins, high above the sea, but I had read that it had been occupied in Neolithic times, and that an Ionian settlement here became the third city-state of Amorgos in the 7th century BC.

There was a rather dizzying view, at the far end of the hill, down to a small beach,

but I preferred this view down over the terraces and to the distant hills. I sat here for a while, happy, before beginning the return journey back to Lagada.

That return walk was as wonderful as the onward journey had been, with bright sun, a light breeze, fragrant plants, quick lizards, and glorious views in every direction.

Back in Lagada, I enjoyed a quiet and restful afternoon, and cooked up a dinner of veggie pasta seasoned with a generous amount of oregano that I had picked from the hillside. Then, as the sun began to lower, I walked into the village and beyond it a short distance to the nearby chapel of Agia Triada which is built, like Chozoviotissa, tucked up against a cliff wall. I walked a bit past the chapel, along the road, for this view up,

and then backtracked to enter through a gate where a long paved path led to a staircase, with views back to Lagada.

I climbed up the stairs and entered, first, a small cell,

then there was another narrow staircase,

that led up to a platform and the church where the door is kept unlocked.

From there, more steps led up to another platform, with a wooden bench tucked up against the cliff wall, and all of the valley and bay spread out below. This was the view down over the church,

and this was a zoomed in view of Aegiali Bay where a ferry was just arriving at the pier.

I stayed a little longer, and then stopped on my descent for this last photo of the day. It was a brilliant ending to a wonderful first day in Lagada.

The next morning, I woke up a little late and the day was already warm. My intention had been to hike to a distant chapel, Stavros, 90 minutes from Lagada, with a visit to the Agios Ionnasis Theologos Monastery along the way. I took a wrong turn out of the village, and ended up climbing much higher than I needed to, before correcting my route and finding the correct path where, again, I needed to climb. I have at least a half dozen photos of stairs going up (!), but I will show only one.

Despite the exertion, I was very happy and took my time. It was Easter Sunday, and as I walked I enjoyed the exceptional landscape all around me. Several small patches of daisies caught my eye and they were just so perfect. I stopped to photograph this one,

because to me these flowers represented the real miracle and mystery of the day. This, to me, is what should be celebrated and revered – nature and our very precious Earth. I carried on, and the climb finally ended at a plateau where I walked first through the welcome shade of a path lined with rock walls and many trees.

The path ended at the chapel of Agios Varvara where there is an ancient well.

From the chapel, there was a view up to the Monastery of Agios Ioannais Theologos, at the very top of the rise,

and the walk between here and there was truly spectacular. It was a beautiful, small, and verdant plateau,

with much evidence of previous cultivation and habitation. Just below the monastery there was one building currently inhabited, where a donkey and dog waited patiently for their master.

I climbed the last little rise to the monastery,

and, wow, what a place!

I called “hello” as I entered through an archway into a back courtyard but all was quiet. There were multiple individual cells, behind the church, and I wondered how many monks might have once lived here, and how many might live here now. I walked all around this beautiful monastery, and its church, with its round tower and east-facing church window.

The monastery was founded here in the 9th century AD, and these buildings date from the 1300s, with some carved stones, set in the altar, indicating that a pre-Christian temple once stood here. And, it is easy to understand why this site was chosen, with views to the sea in the west at Aegiali,

and to the sea in the east,

and over that beautiful small plateau.

I explored north of the monastery where there were many remains of old farmsteads, field fences, and a threshing circle, and in the near distance I heard the bells of sheep and goats, and the whistles and calls of a shepherd, as he led his flock. It was all rather emotionally overwhelming, in the best way, as I turned around and around and every single thing I saw was beautiful. I sat for a while, near the monastery, for food and water and a rest. Part of me wanted to continue to Stavros, about two kilometres distant, and part of me felt that this was the place to stop. I could certainly understand why this place had been chosen, all those centuries ago, and by so many, as a place to settle, and to give thanks.

I began my return back to Lagada, and absorbed all of the beauty again as I left the monastery, walked back through the gorgeous pastoral plateau to the chapel, then along the shaded level path, to the start of my descent on narrow paths and uneven stone steps. My eyes were necessarily focussed on my foot placement as I made my way down, until I noticed the geometric beauty of a thistle plant. That made me stop, and I became hyper-aware of the plants around me. There was yet another new kind of wildflower, in varying shades of pink and white,

and great mounds of euphorbia, oregano, and purple-blooming sage.

The most skilled gardener would be hard pressed to improve on the shapes and arrangements of the trees, shrubs, and flowers all around me along the steps,

and across the hillsides.

I couldn’t go forward more than ten steps at a time without finding another exceptional view to photograph.

It was truly spectacular, and I was feeling euphoric on that hillside, in that natural garden.

Finally, though, it was time to leave, and I set my sights back on Lagada below,

and on Aegiali Bay beyond that, knowing that I would travel there the following morning for my last day on Amorgos.

That evening, I went for a walk through the village. It was surprisingly very quiet, with only a few people sitting together at several tavernas and cafes. I had fun taking many photos of windows and doors, and of whatever else caught my fancy. Here are a few collages from an evening walk in lovely Lagada.

The following day was to be my last day on Amorogos, and I had no ambitions beyond, possibly, braving a swim. I took a taxi down to Aegiali, and again was able to check in early to another wonderful, clean, and inexpensive accommodation that included a seaview balcony.

I took a walk to the village, and was not in the mood to take any photos until I saw a small windmill down by the harbour, so then I had to take a few!

I wandered into a few shops, perused taverna menus, and then returned to my accommodation to be lazy for awhile. Later, in the afternoon, I put on a bathing suit under my shorts and top, and headed down to Aegiali’s long sandy beach where many families were enjoying the holiday Easter Monday, with young children playing in the sand, and a few older ones swimming, while their parents sat in family groups chatting and enjoying the lovely weather. I lay for a short while on the sand, and then went in to the sea up to my knees. My swimming ambitions had deserted me, and I happily strolled barefoot, back and forth along the beach, collecting small flat gray and white pebbles as souvenirs of Amorgos. A short concrete pier extended into the water near the centre of the beach, and from there I took a photo towards the village of Aegiali,

and one to the other side of the bay.

It was a peaceful and relaxing afternoon, and at dinner I treated myself to a sit down dinner at a taverna where I ordered the roasted goat, stuffed with dill and lemon rice, that had been cooked on Easter day. It was delicious, with a side of tzatziki, and a glass of local wine. My island time was ending, and as the sun set I reflected on my week on Amorgos. I was so glad that I had chosen this place for a longer stay, and yet it wasn’t quite long enough.

Perhaps I will be lucky enough to return again one day, for more glorious hillside hikes, on this very special island.

Exploring Wonderful Chora, Amorgos – Greece, Spring 2025

Chora Windmills, Castle, and Town, Hike from Chora to Katapola, Monastery of Agios Georgios Valsamitis, Good Friday Procession

After my visit to the Chozoviotissa Monastery, I returned to Chora and made my way to the arched gateway at the edge of the village,

turned right at the chapel, and there was my lovely accommodation (the sage-coloured door is mine, and the blue door belongs to my hosts.)

I had a refreshing shower, and then enjoyed a quiet afternoon doing a bit of laundry, and not much of anything else.

Later, after a simple dinner, I was ready to go out and explore Chora. It is such a pretty village!

I made my way to the ridge of windmills, just behind and above Chora, and from there I caught my first sight of the dramatic jut of rock that rises from the top of the hill, topped by the ruined walls of an early 13th century Venetian castle.

Then my attention was back on the windmills!

There were ten altogether, and I walked up, down, and all over the undulating ridge, enjoying the beautiful evening air and light, and the plethora of views in every direction.

There were views of neighbouring ridges, terraced hillsides, tucked-away chapels, and the distant sea. It was marvellous!

Even down low! I found two new flowers yet again. I was thrilled (and surprised) to see tiny purple irises scattered here and there around the hillside, and there were also patches of what I think is red anemone.

All of the vegetation on this rocky ridge was low-growing, including the purple geraniums that grew taller elsewhere, and many different kinds of grasses.

I took photo after photo of the windmills and, as at Chozoviotissa, I did not want to leave this incredibly beautiful place.

And, views of the village kept drawing my eye as well,

with its dramatic rock fortress which provided protection from pirate raids for much of the 13th to 17th centuries.

I made my way back down into the village and headed in the direction of the castle, but I was highly diverted on the way! Chora has almost thirty churches and chapels!

There were doors to photograph, in greens,

and blues,

and sleepy cats on colourful taverna chairs.

A few more lanes, chapels, and squares to pass,

and I finally arrived near the base of the castle rock, with the buildings here looking distinctly older.

I circled around to the back of the rock to find the Church of Saint George clinging to its side. Earlier in the day I had been told that the door of the church (and access to the top of the rock) is usually locked, but that it might be open because the church was being newly painted.

I climbed up the narrow stone steps, and was careful at the top of the curve to not fall down and into the remains of a castle tower!

The door was open, as was the next, (though not a third small door into the church), so I could pass through and onto the top of the rock!

I rose up to the flag, and I was all alone up there, with the fresh evening breeze blowing, and I loved it! There were views to the southwest of the island,

and over the roof of the church to the northwest.

and to the west I was able to see all ten windmills aligned on the ridge beyond the village.

Once again, I didn’t want to leave! When I did finally descend, I went very very slowly down those narrow curving stairs. It is always more scary going down than up!

At the bottom, I began to complete my circuit around the base of castle rock,

and around the curve was another church, quite small and very atmospheric.

It had a small gated courtyard where someone had planted rose bushes, and there were beautifully carved stones at the two top corners of the doorway.

I read later that it is named the church of Kyra Ieousa, and that it predates the Monastery of Chozoviotissa and is probably the oldest church in Chora. I left the church, turned back for this view,

and continued my circuit around the base of the rock until I returned to where I had started. Then, I slowly made my way back through the narrow village lanes to my apartment. It had truly been an exceptional and marvellous day, with my visit to Chozoviotissa, and my exploration of the village, and I was so glad that I had travelled to beautiful Amorogos.

The following morning, I set out on a hike to see another historical and very interesting monastery that I had read about, the Agios Georgios Valsamitis. This monastery had been built over an ancient sacred spring associated with Apollo and an Oracle. I set out on a centuries-old pathway, along the sides of a hill, with views of terraces all around,

and I had soon left Chora far behind.

Initially, I had planned to hike to the Valsamitis monastery, a distance of about 3.5 kilometres, and then return to Chora, but when the sea and Katapola came into view in the distance, I decided that I would hike the entire way there and return to Chora by taxi.

It was wonderful walking along the path, on scented hillsides, and after a short section of road walking, I could see the monastery ahead, with the remains of an old water mill on the hillside above it.

This monastery had been a nunnery for centuries, but was abandoned in the 1797. It had been built over an ancient sacred spring that was dedicated to Apollo. The spring was associated with the “Oracle of the Speaking Water” and women had traditionally been the interpreters of the Oracle’s messages. I learned that, in recent years, a single Orthodox Greek nun, Irini, moved in, restored the monastery, and brought the gardens to life, and that she lived there alone, painting icons, and welcoming visitors.

But, I had learned on my visit to Chozoviotissa that Sister Irini is no longer at the monastery, and that a monk is now in residence, but no explanation was given as to why she had left. I felt sad about that, having hoped to meet her. I called, “Hello? Hello?” as I entered through the gate. It was Good Friday, and I did not want to disturb any services or devotion that might be taking place, but there was no one there. All was quiet, and I had the beautiful place to myself.

I sat on a low stone wall in the courtyard, under the welcome shade of a tree, to rest, have a snack, and absorb the history of this place. I wished that I could have met Irini, and seen the ancient spring that still flows inside a recess in the church. Eventually, it was time to say goodbye and carry on. I continued on the path to Katapola, with this last view back.

For the rest of the hike, I had views of the sea and Katapola pulling me forward,

but there is always value in looking back to where one has been.

Chora looked very far away, high on the distant hill. It always amazes me how far one can walk in a short time, and it is gratifying to see the results of all of those steps! And none of it was onerous, as everything one sees is new and exciting. Every step is a step that I have never taken before, and new views always emerge. Later in the hike, I was happy to see some cultivated terraces, planted with wheat, and nearby there were some hilltop ruins and an old threshing circle.

I soon reached the Church of the Holy Cross, Stavros,

where I sat again, on a convenient chair in the shade, to rest and enjoy the quiet of the place. I had not yet seen another person since leaving Chora.

It was a very beautiful small church, and I loved the views back over the hillsides of the valley that I had traversed.

Now, I had a choice to make as the trailhead to climb Ancient Minoa was directly across from me and would require a diversion of only about an hour, up and back, but it was hot, and my heart and brain felt very full. Also, if I did not climb up to Ancient Minoa today, it might be more likely that I would return one day to Amorgos. So, I continued on, down to Katapola,

where I walked along the waterfront, back to where I would catch Dina’s taxi back up to Chora. I had to wait about fifteen minutes, but that was fine, looking at this view, with Ancient Minoa and the beautiful sea strengthening their case for my possible return!

The ride back up to Chora was just as thrilling as the first time, with dizzying curves and heart-stopping views down (always scarier when someone else is driving!), and I arrived to a quiet Chora, where the cats were again napping on taverna chairs in the mid-afternoon heat, and there was something new. All of the streets were strewn with stems of oregano, taken from the hills.

There were also blackened canisters filled with fibre and fuel along laneways, and I was told that there would be a procession that evening at nine p.m., from the main church through the streets of the village, called the Epitaphios (mourning). A decorated bier, representing Christ’s tomb, would be carried all around the streets of the village, with the fire-lit cans decorating side lanes along the way. I was assured that I would be welcome, so I ventured out close to nine and found myself at the main square which was full of people outside of the church, talking quietly in groups. You could sense that this was a tradition most had participated in since they were children. There was beautiful singing coming from the church, and there was room for me to venture inside and watch the service and the beginnings of the procession. I joined the crowd outside, and made my way through the village with others, aware that this tradition has likely been performed here for well over a thousand years. It was incredibly special to be there to witness and participate in the procession.

It was also a very special way to end my two days in Chora, and I was reluctant to leave this beautiful village, but I knew that the next village, Lagada, and its surrounding hills would be special as well. I was so glad that I had chosen Amorgos as the finale to my Greek islands visit.

Simply Stunning, the Holy Monastery of the Virgin Mary Chozoviotissa, Amorgos – Greece, Spring 2025

Holy Monastery of the Virgin Mary Chozoviotissa, Amorgos

After my second night in Katapola, I took a taxi up to the beautiful town of Chora. I had originally planned to travel by bus on Amorgos, but no buses were running because of the Easter holidays, and I did not wish to rent a car. Thankfully, the taxis were reasonably priced, and I was rather glad that I had not booked a car as my driver, Dina, drove with speed and skill up, down, and around precipitous and dizzying mountain curves! My hosts greeted me at a lovely cafe, and walked with me the short distance to my spacious and beautiful accommodation, with its own private little courtyard!

I dropped off my things, and headed out straight away for my walk to the Holy Monastery of the Virgin Mary Chozoviotissa. I had seen a photo of this stunning monastery, dramatically situated on the side of golden cliffs, high above the sea, when I was first deciding which of the many Cycladic islands to visit. As soon as I saw the image, I knew that I wanted to travel here. The trail to the monastery started right at the edge of the village. Trail 1, the “Palia Strada” (Old Road) follows ancient pathways for 14.5 kilometres along the spine of Amorgos, from Chora to the village of Lagada, with 930 metres of ascent, and 645 metres of descent along that distance! Traders and pilgrims used this path for centuries to travel between the port of Aegiali, below Lagada, to Chora and the monastery. (It is interesting to note that electricity was not installed on Amorgos until the 1980s, and the main road between the two ports of Katapola and Aegiali, was not paved until 1991!) My journey on Trail 1, however, would be quite short, as the monastery was only thirty minutes away, first down a steep zigzagging trail,

then along a short section of roadway. I surveyed the cliffs ahead as I walked, and noticed an area of pretty serious rockfall. Giant slabs of rock lay in a jumbled pile below where they had obviously sheared off of the cliff face, and it looked fairly recent! I was reminded sharply that Amorgos had experienced the same recent swarm of thousands of earthquakes as Santorini. The two islands are only about fifty kilometres apart, and most of the quakes were centred on a fault line that runs between the two!

I reached the famous staircase to the monastery, and began to climb up the 350 steps. Once I had rounded the curve of the cliff, I got my first glimpse of Chozoviotissa!

And here was the gorgeous blue sea below!

I paused (but not too long!) to look at the narrow beginnings of a cave on the rock wall. The monastery is built into a recess such as this, as well as much of it being carved right out of the cliff face.

I continued up the staircase, nearer and nearer to the stunning edifice.

What a place!

There were buildings off to the left of the main structure, and narrow terraced gardens below.

I walked up to the base of the monastery for this amazing view up,

and this one,

and this one!

The monastery is 40 metres wide, and 5 metres at its deepest. It is 8 stories high, and includes 15 monastic cells, a small church, and 72 different rooms, all linked by narrow staircases. It is the second oldest monastery in Greece, and was built in 1017, with renovations in 1088. It has been continuously occupied and maintained for over a thousand years!

The monastery is usually open between 9 a.m. to 1 p.m., and 5-7 p.m. I arrived there close to 11. There was one other visitor, a young woman from Athens who comes here every year at Easter for a pilgrimage. We talked for a few moments, and she told me that the first two doors were unlocked, but not the door to the church. She guessed that the monastery might fully open at 11. Here is the beautiful entrance, at the far side of the monastery.

I entered through the low doorway,

and found myself in a narrow passageway. The rock wall of the cliff curves closely to the stairs as you go up, and there was a beautiful painting in a recess above the entrance font.

I rose up to a second floor passageway, but the end door was locked, as was the door to the church which was up another short flight of stairs.

I returned outside, and decided to explore a bit more and take more photos from different vantage points, like this one!

A small tour group arrived at 11 with a local guide, and the monastery opened soon after. I entered with the group into the monastery, and then into the small church which was quite beautifully decorated and very atmospheric (no photos were allowed). I was lucky to be there to listen to the guide as she related some of the history and the interesting stories of this place. We then moved to the outside balcony where photos are allowed. We were 300 metres above the sea! Here is a photo down to the staircase,

one looking straight down to the sea,

and one of the balcony itself, the north and south sides.

I looked through the window of the north side wall, to the continuation of Trail 1, the Palia Strada, as it heads off along the perilous cliff edge. I wondered if I would be brave enough to hike that section of trail if I ever return to Amorgos one day. Writing this now, I still don’t know the answer to that question.

I took one final photo from the balcony, looking up at the church bells and the massive amount of rock above us!

I returned inside, and sat for a while longer in the church, looking at the artistry of the devotional paintings, woodwork, textiles, and silver work. After, I found another corridor with a kitchen at one end and a sitting room at the other. The tour group members were there with their guide, and also with the monastery’s young monk, Constantine, learning more about the monastery and enjoying a small glass of raki which is traditionally offered to guests. I didn’t want to intrude, so I sat in the space between the two rooms and listened in as well as I could to the stories that were being shared.

I sat in front of a bright window, with the kitchen to my left, and the sitting room to my right. Before me were some photographs and paintings on the wall, and one photo was of the monk Father Spyridon. He is one of two monks who came here in their early twenties, and they are now in their eighties. For sixty years they have travelled, most often on foot, to conduct services in various churches and chapels all over the island. In the church I had spoken briefly with the young monk, Constantine, who has been here for three years, and he is deciding whether he will stay on here at Chozoviotissa.

The tour group left, and other visitors were arriving, so I felt it was time for me to go, but I was reluctant to leave this special and unique place. I slowed my departure by taking yet more photographs – the stairs as I descended,

and then, this wonderful and unexpected view as I passed through the doorway to outside. I love this photo!

And this one too!

The cats were seeking shade for their midday naps, and this little fellow kind of reminded me of Brent who can sleep in the oddest places and positions!

Still reluctant to leave, I took several more photos, and then,

when I saw more visitors coming up the stairs,

I knew that my visit was well and truly over. I descended maybe twenty steps, and then, unable to resist, I stopped for one last look down to the sea,

and one last look up to the monastery.

I made my way down the stairs, then up the roadway, and onto the zigzag path back up to Chora, stopping only a few times to catch my breath, and to photograph two last, beautiful things, small but perfect, on this very special island.

And more beauty was yet to come!

A Great Start on Amorgos – Greece, Spring 2025

Katapola, Xylokeratidi, Evangelistria Hike

My ferry from Naxos to Katapola, on the island of Amorgos, was scheduled to leave at 1:00 a.m., and to arrive in Katapola at 4:00 a.m.. I had originally booked an afternoon sailing on a different ship, the Express Skopelitis, a sturdy nautical work horse based in Katapola that services the Small Cyclades Islands, Amorgos, and Naxos, by ferrying passengers and cargo daily. Unfortunately, the Express Skopelitis was undergoing repairs so I had to change my booking to the only other option, a Blue Star ferry at 1:00 a.m.. I decided to book another day at my current accommodation because I couldn’t imagine wandering around about town, kicking my heels, until past midnight. I felt nervous, leaving to walk to the port shortly after midnight, but I needn’t have worried as the waterfront promenade was all lit up, music was playing, and there were lots of people around in groups and couples having a drink or a late night snack. I had worried that I would be the only person at the port, all by myself in the dark, but there were cars and people all over. An older U.K. couple, who have visited Amorgos every year for the last thirty years, told me that Greek ferries run at all hours of the night, and are always busy at any hour.

I rested on the three-hour voyage, and tried to sleep, but couldn’t. Thankfully, my accommodation provider picked me up at the port and whisked myself and two other guests the short distance to Titika Pension where I buried myself immediately under a heavy and warm, deep blue blanket, to sleep well for a good solid six hours. I woke refreshed, admired my small but charming room, and made up a simple breakfast to enjoy on a lovely communal balcony with a view of Katapola Bay.

Amorgos is one of the lesser visited of the Cyclades islands, having few beaches, but it is popular with hikers and those who want a quieter experience. It is a long, thin, and mountainous island, with high cliffs that plunge down to the sea on much of its two long-sided coasts. It has two ports, and I began my week on Amorgos at its southern port, Katapola, which is located on a beautiful bay. Actually, my accommodation was opposite the village Katapola, on the other side of the bay, in a very tiny village named Xylokeratidi. After breakfast, I strolled along the waterfront promenade, over to the Katapola side, to visit the bakery and grocery store.

Then, back on my side of the bay, and provisioned with a healthy snack and water, I decided to head out on a walk to visit the Church of St. Panteleimon, located scenically on a small headland about two kilometres from me along the coast. It was a lovely walk, first past a small harbour with fishing boats,

then up through the few quiet streets of Xylokeratidi,

to arrive at what may be the prettiest chapel that I have come across yet in Greece!

And this was the front!

There were also great views to my destination ahead, with the church just visible on the headland.

I continued along on a stony beach,

and greatly enjoyed both the walk and the views of Katapola Bay. The water was so beautiful!

I arrived at the small headland,

and viewed the Church of St. Panteleimon from all sides.

From there, I decided to take a path to connect to the #7, “Evangalistria”, way-marked trail, a looped trail of just under four kilometres that rose up onto a hillside,

and continued to rise up alongside terraces,

to arrive at a small, hidden, and beautiful hilltop plateau, divided by stone walls into fields.

There was a ruined farm house in the distance, and I felt a little sad looking at these no-longer used fields. It felt like a bit of a magical place, like a place to settle, where the land could be generous, and I imagine that for a time it was. A little farther up the path, I came across the ruins of several other old and abandoned homes that were aligned on the ridge, with Katapola Bay below and the fields behind.

The circular grouping of flat paving stones puzzled me, and on a later hike I came across another one that was near a field of planted wheat. I deduced then that it must be an old threshing circle. I googled it to make sure, and have since seen several others on the island. I left the small abandoned community behind, and began a slow descent down one hill, and then up and around another. On the way, I noticed two new, very delicate and beautiful flowers, that I hadn’t yet encountered on my travels in Greece.

There were also many very fragrant plants all over the hillsides, including a type of sage, with pale purple blooms, and a yellow-flowered plant which had a very strong and unusual scent – I couldn’t decided whether I loved it or hated it!

Here are a few more plants that were blooming along the route, including one with tiny pink flowers that is possibly in the orchid family.

As I began the descent towards Katapola, I saw the bright white roof of the Evangelistria Chapel, after which this trail is named.

Newly painted, incuding its pretty blue gate, this early Byzantine chapel was very beautiful.

It had an interesting side door made of hammered metal, and iron nail heads or rivets formed the design of a Greek cross in a circle. There was also a pleasant little shaded sitting area facing the chapel.

(I later learned that near here there are also the remains of a Mycenaean chamber tomb from the 14th-13th century BC.) I paused for this next view, over a lovely olive grove, across towards Katapola, and up to the mountain rising up behind the port. That mountain is topped by the ruins of Ancient Minoa, which was an ancient Cycladic settlement, and there is also evidence of habitation there in late Stone Age.

It had been my original intention, today, to do the hike from Katapola up to Ancient Minoa, but I hadn’t expected to hike Trail 7 – that had been an impulse decision, and one that I was happy I had made. I was beginning to feel a bit tired from my middle-of-the-night ferry ride, so I decided to return to my accommodation and see how I felt later about possibly making the climb – perhaps I would do the hike in the early evening… I passed a chapel as I walked back through tiny Xylokeratidi, with its pretty villas and quiet streets,

and then I reached the bay and walked out onto a pier for this photo over to my accommodation, Pension Titika, across the water. I was really beginning to settle into the peace and the relaxed pace of this beautiful place.

Back at Titika, I noticed for the first time that my room number 8 had its own little balcony!

Reason enough to spend time at home, I think! I did stroll back around the bay to Katapola around dinner time (no kitchenette), to check out its shops and restaurants,

and I settled on a souvlaki pita wrap to take back to my balcony, where I sat and looked at the bay for the rest of the evening.

I kept looking up at Ancient Minoa a little wistfully, and felt like the mountain looked back at me somewhat reproachfully, but perhaps it was best to have omitted that hike, because now I was already beginning to plan a return trip to the beautiful island of Amorgos.

Wonderful Naxos – Greece, Spring 2025

Naxos Chora, Portata, Byzantine Park of Tragea Hike, Naxos Kasteli, Naxos Culture and History Tour, and Southwest Beaches

From Santorini, I travelled to the island of Naxos which is the largest, greenest, and most fertile of the Cycladic Islands. It is quite mountainous, and its Mount Zas is the highest peak in all of the Cyclades, with an elevation of 1,003 metres. I had not initially planned to visit Naxos, but needed to stop there because there were no direct ferries between Santorini and Amorgos in the off-season. I decided to stay on the island for three days, and once I started researching, I learned that Naxos has a long distance waymarked path, the Strada, that travels from the southwest coast of the island to northwest coast, for a total distance of 52 kilometres. I would not have time to do this walk on my three days, but my goal was to see as much of the island as I could, and to try a hike, to see if I would like to return to Naxos in the future to walk the Strada.

I arrived at the busy harbour and immediately liked the energy of Naxos town, called Chora, with its harbour, marina, waterfront promenade, and old town streets rising uphill to the Venetian Kasteli. My accommodation was excellent! Close to everything, with a small balcony and sea view, and an even better sea view on the rooftop deck.

I found an excellent bakery and grocery store nearby for provisions, made a quick simple dinner, and then headed out in the early evening to visit Naxos’ famous Portata. I travelled via the quiet and narrow back streets,

and then descended to the cheerful waterfront promenade which definitely has a holiday vibe.

Here is the causeway which leads out to the small islet of Palatia, and on that islet is Naxos’ most famous landmark, its Portata.

The Portata is a huge structure that was meant to be the entrance to a grand and glorious Temple of Apollo. Begun in 530 BC by Lygdamis, who was later overthrown, it was never finished. Later, the ruling Venetians and then the Turks removed most of the temple’s stones to build the town’s hilltop castle, but the doorway was left standing, with its four long blocks of Naxian marble that each weigh twenty tons. Facing towards Delos, Apollo’s birthplace, the massive doorway is a beautiful and impressive tribute, just as it is!

There were great views back from the islet to Chora, with its castle-topped hill,

and I enjoyed walking all around the structure, taking photos from different angles.

It was a lovely evening, and I stayed on the hill for a long time, as people came and went.

I loved being there, and I had a good feeling about Naxos. I took my time heading home, and at my studio I read up on Naxos and researched my next’s day hike. At the last moment, I remembered to pop up to the rooftop terrace for this view of the sun setting behind the neighbouring island of Paros.

The next morning, I took a local bus from Chora to Chalki, a lovely little town near the centre of the island, to do a seven kilometre circular hike from Chalki to Moni that is called the Byzantine Park Trail as it passes four Byzantine-era churches. (As well as the Strada, Naxos is well-suited to hikers as it has more than a dozen waymarked trails of varying lengths and difficulties.) It only took moments to find the trailhead, and the promising start led me quickly out of town and then along a grove of very old olive trees. (Naxos apparently boasts the existence of the world’s oldest living tree, an olive tree estimated to be between 5,000 to 6,000 years old!)

A short spur trail took me to the very beautiful 11th c. Church of St. George Diasoritis,

and, a short while later, I descended another spur trail to visit the architecturally interesting, 12th century, Church of Taxiarches at Monitsia.

Here, I rose up behind the church to take an alternate trail, 4A, and from there I had views across the beautiful valley, filled with olive and oak trees, to striking mountains behind.

To the southeast, was the mountain town of Filoti, with Mt. Zas rising behind it,

and to the north was my destination, the village of Moni topping a hill in the distance.

It was a very wonderful hike!

I next reached the Byzantine Church of Agios Isodoros, which was a very large structure, built into a hill and unrestored. I saw many bees enter its cavernous space – there must be lots of honey inside!

There were many stone fences and ruins of old farmhouses nearby, and I could occassionally hear the bleating of goats and the sound of sheep bells as I walked. At the head of the valley, I dipped down from the mountainside trail to cross a stream, and then I began the climb up to Moni. It was so verdant!

I came across lupines for the first time on my trip, and close to Moni there were terraces full of them!

I then passed the late 6th century Church of Panagia Drosiani, which is thought to be the oldest Christian church in all of Greece and the Balkans. Three girls were sitting outside, and some people were inside, and I didn’t want to disturb anyone with my photo taking. The girls said hello, and I was cheerfully told by the eldest that they were sisters, aged 11, 10, and 9. We exchanged names, and I told them I was from Canada, but that was about as far as we could get with their English and my Greek, though we smiled at each other alot! I took a quick photo up high, so as not to include the girls,

then said goodbye, and continued on my way up to Moni. It was a bit of a huff and puff climb, then a quick walk through the town,

and then a series of steps and steep trail that quickly took me far below the village.

I was now on the other side of the valley, and much closer to the beautiful mountains that I had seen before.

The walk back was relaxed and easy, and the rural views were splendid.

I passed through the tiny but wonderful smattering of old buildings that was Kaloxylos,

and soon I had returned to Chalki where I wandered the town a bit, before sitting in the sun to wait almost an hour for the next bus back to Chora. The bus would pass me going in the other direction first, and when it did, I asked if I could go for a ride to the end of the line, and then stay on for the return. The driver said yes and I was so glad he did. The ride was fantastic, up to Filoti, and around and up to Apeiranthos, with many switchbacks up steep-sided mountains, and with views of new mountains and valleys and off to the sea. Greek music played on the radio, and the driver went fast around the curves. I put on my seat belt! Many hikers got on at Apeiranthos and appeared happy with their day outside, as was I. The ride back down, through the various mountain villages all the way to Chora, was just as fun, and I was very glad to get to see so much of Naxos.

Then, a hot shower, the pleasant chore of hand washing laundry and hanging it to dry on my balcony, salad and a spinach pie for dinner, sorting through the day’s photos and reading ahead for the next day…it’s a very simple life while travelling! Goodnight from Naxos!

The following day I had an island tour scheduled for the afternoon so in the morning I decided to explore Chora’s hilltop Venetian castle, with its one remaining original 12th century tower, Gyzi, which is currently being restored. A maze of arched gateways, occupied villas, chapels, a large Catholic Church, and a former monastery and convent are crowded together on the hill in a pleasing mix of old and new. I entered under arched gateways and circled around on the lower levels, with views up,

and then I found the south Paraporti gate that lead up to higher levels and the church above.

I visited the small but elegant and comprehensive archaeological museum which featured artefacts from Naxos’ centuries of human history, ranging from the Neolithic to the Bronze and Iron Ages, through the Hellenic and Roman periods, and then the centuries of Byzantine, Venetian, and Turkish rule. Then I enjoyed more wandering about, along the lanes, under passages, and around corners.

In the afternoon, I took a four hour Naxos Half Day History and Culture guided tour in order to see more of the island and, despite not being a tour person, I did enjoy the stops we made, the commentary and bits of story on the way, and the scenery as we drove. The downsides were not having enough time at each place (I like to take my time), and having to zip ahead, or fall behind, the group of about forty in order to take people-free photos (not an easy task but I actually enjoyed the challenge!). Our first stop was the Temple of Demeter who was the goddess of agriculture, harvest, and fertility. Built of Naxian marble in the 6th century BC, it has been partially reconstructed.

I enjoyed walking around the temple for different views,

and also the surrounding views which included the small chapel of Agios Ioannis Theologos. Moved to its present site near the temple, it had originally been built under the arch of a ruined Christian basilica that had replaced the pagan temple in the 5th-6th c. AD.

And, this is perhaps my favourite photo from my entire trip to Greece thus far! Demeter has certainly done her work!

We next made a stop at a pottery studio and shop in Damalas (population 18) where the fourth generation potter made a traditional sfouni jug, within minutes, on his wheel, and often working just by touch. A personable young man then explained how the sfouni (which means siphon) was used, and is still used, to siphon wine from a barrel into first the handle and then the centre of the jug. He also demonstrated, and then explained, the mysterious workings of the Pythagoras cup, which the potter also makes. A very clever invention, attributed to Pythagoras, it prevents drinkers from being greedy and over-imbibing. Google it! I really enjoyed this stop and couldn’t resist buying one small cup as a souvenir from Greece.

We continued to the small village of Chalki where I had begun and ended my hike the day before. There was time to stroll, visit a distillery to sample the local kitron liqueur, or sit for a coffee or ice cream cone. I enjoyed strolling the town with its Venetian-era buildings, lovely square, galleries, and shops with authentic crafts, including beautiful textiles, and local food products.

We then drove up to the mountainside village of Filoti to visit the Panagia Filoti Orthodox church which was built in 1720 with unexpected support from the then-ruling Turks as thanks for the support of a local Greek man who had helped rescue the crew of a wrecked Turkish ship. The church had a very beautiful painted dome, and was as elaborate as all of the Greek Orthodox churches that I have visited.

Next door to the church was a wonderful little Folk Museum, and I really wish that we had had more time to spend here. We were given a taste of a local cheese, and a sample of a very strong spirit called raki.

Next, we drove up towards Moni and stopped at the Panagia Drosiani where I had met the three sisters on my hike the day before. It looks large from the outside, with several round domed cells,

but the inside was tiny, and very atmospheric, with very old painted frescoes, some of which date from the 6th century and some from the 13th and 14th centuries. We weren’t told which, but a flash light helped to illuminate a beautiful portrait of Mary, and one of Saint George seated on a horse. (Reminder, you can click on any photo for a larger image.)

We continued up mountain roads to drive past two of Naxos’ five marble quarries – the island exports over 80,000 tons of marble every year.

The scenery was wonderful, with dramatic mountains, sweeping valleys, and terraced hillsides as we drove to our last stop, near Melanes, to see one of three giant Kouros statues that lie on Naxos, broken, near where they were being sculpted from marble 2600 years ago. My photo is terrible (under dappled light) of this giant, 5.5 metre long statue of a youth, but the story is interesting. The kourous was found by a farmer on his land in the 1940s, but he told no one about it as so many Greek treasures had been taken out of the country by foreigners. Finally, as a very old man, he told his grandchildren and they kept the secret for a long time as well. It remains where it was found all those years ago.

I really enjoyed the bus tour, and it served my purpose to see more of the island. The following day, I wanted to check out some of the beaches on Naxos, as afternoon swims after morning hikes would be a great way to spend a future week on Naxos walking the Strada. Because it is still low season, not many buses were running to the beaches so I decided to first check out Agios Georgios beach which is in walking distance to the old town of Chora. After less than a fifteen minute walk I was here!

With views looking out,

and back to Chora.

The beach went on and on,

and on and on, to an area of low dunes and a wild feel.

I decided to keep on walking to the very end of the beach, and then across the distant headland, in order to check out two more beaches, Agios Prokopios,

and Agia Anna,

where I stopped to return to Chora by bus. I was convinced! And Naxos has many more long golden sand beaches ranged all along its southwest coast, as well as elsewhere on the island.

I was very happy to have visited to Naxos, and as I packed up my bag that evening for my 1:00 a.m. ferry to Amorgos, I knew that I would like to return here to experience more of this island. That is, though, until I got to Amorgos…, and now the decision of where to return has been made that much more difficult!

Better in Santorini – Greece, Spring 2025

Ancient Akrotiri, Hike from Fira to Oia, and the Prehistoric Museum of Ancient Thera

On the morning of my third full day on Santorini I again took the 8:30 bus to Ancient Akrotiri, and this time it was open! Ancient Akrotiri was a large and prosperous Minoan settlement at the southern end of the island that was frozen in time by the large eruption of the Santorini volcano in 1630 BCE. The city was buried under 60 metres of ash and pumice, but unlike Pompei, the residents had time to flee before the eruption, perhaps warned by earlier quakes or initial smaller eruptions. The site is protected from the elements by a large building, and work is ongoing. Only about three percent of the site has been excavated, revealing streets, squares, shops, and homes up to three stories high. Visitors tour the site on walkways above the ruins, and the excellent interpretive panels help to make sense of the gray expanse of ruins and ash.

Everything seems rather fragile and precarious, with sand bags and posts helping to support structures, and archaeologists have stabilized windows, door frames, and walls with concrete.

I liked this building where large vases have been left where they were found. Most of the recovered artefacts, however, have been removed for safety and study, and some of the most important finds, including beautiful wall frescoes, are on view at the Prehistoric Museum of Ancient Thera in Fira, and at the National Archaeological Museum in Athens.

Here, plaster casts of wooden bed frames have been placed where the beds were found.

It was all very interesting, and there was an excellent video that showed what one of the larger and finer homes, the West House, would have looked like, and how it would have been organized and utilized. There were storerooms, workshops, a room full of weaving looms, domestic areas, and even a commode that emptied down clay pipes to the city’s sewer system. The highest floor was light and airy with large windows and it featured beautiful wall paintings including one long narrow painting of an epic sea voyage, with finely drawn ships, cities, people and nature. Here is a small portion of that painting which was reproduced on one of the information panels. (I saw the original wall painting the following day at the museum, but could not photograph it well.) All of the wall paintings found at Akrotiri provide valuable information about life on this Agean island in the Early Bronze Age.

Happy with my visit, I returned to Fira, and spent the rest of the morning and the early part of the afternoon inside, sorting photos and catching up on my blog. Then, at around two I set off to begin the Fira to Oia hike, telling myself that it was okay if I changed my mind and did not complete it. I went to the cliffside path, turned north, and set off. It was a beautiful afternoon, warmer than the previous days, and with a lovely breeze. I turned after the first few minutes for this view back to Fira and out to sea,

and then for a zoomed-in view to my destination, Oia, on the far distant point, ten kilometres away.

There was a cruise ship in the harbour and the walkway was busy. People were strolling along, admiring the views, or sitting at clifftop terrace restaurants and bars. I was still feeling nervous about the possibility of an earthquake, though not as badly as on my first day. But, I could not imagine choosing to sit out on one of those terraces to have a drink or a meal. I wouldn’t be able to relax!

People seemed oblivious to the potential for danger, and my safety wasn’t much more assured on the path, but at least I was aware and constantly looking for a possible escape route! Even worse than dining on a terrace would be to stay the night in a cliffside hotel or villa, as many do, and they pay hundreds and even thousands of Euros per night to do so. What if an earthquake should happen in the middle of the night?

I also thought about the residents of this island, and about the owners and employees of the cliffside bars, restaurants, hotels and villas. What must it be like to live or work here, on the edge, day in and day out? I don’t think that I could tolerate the constant risk…

But, my thoughts weren’t all doom and gloom as I finally settled into the rhythm of the walk. I admired the beauty of the cliffs as I rose up towards Imerovigli – the horizontal stripes reveal the geological history of the series of volcanic eruptions which formed the Santorini volcano and island.

I enjoyed walking through Imerovigli,

with beautiful views back as far as Fira.

I neared and then passed by Skaros Rock. A spur trail heads down onto the promontory, and then up to what remains of the Venetian fortress and walled town that was built atop it.

As I left the outskirts of Imerovigli, I could see the rises and falls of the way ahead, until the final descent into Oia.

I rose up to the Church of Prophetes Elias, just visible near the top of the highest rise ahead,

and beyond it was the only really tricky part of the hike, with a steep, slippery and narrow trail, very close to the edge, and with areas of new rock fall on the path. I did not stop for a photo!

After that, the trail moved further from the edge, and there were fantastic views back as I rounded the inner curve of the crescent.

The rest of the hike was a pleasure, with several gentle rises up to small chapels, followed by easy descents,

and then I walked into Oia!

I made my way to the remains of the Castle of Agios Nikolaos, one of the five fortresses that were built by the Venetians on Santorini. It is a busy spot, especially at sunset, as iconic photos of Oia can be taken from there,

like this one!

Here is a wider view that encompasses more of the hillside.

Many professional photoshoots happen in Oia,

and many young women pose for their perfect “I am here!” Instagram shots. I had to wait my turn to take a quick photo of this next iconic view,

and also this one.

It was fun, but I soon wanted to be away from the busyness, and so I headed towards the windmills, because it was quieter there, and I like windmills!

I really enjoyed my time in Oia, but did not want to wait for the sunset as the town becomes very crowded then. I enjoyed the bus ride back to Fira, with new views of the island’s east coast that I had not yet seen. While there are fantastic and beautiful sights to be seen all over Santorini, there are also the more modest and workaday views of people’s homes, car sales lots, gas stations, abandoned buildings and work sites, etc. It is not all pretty, which is fine, but more than once I wished that people would not litter (locals and tourists), and that Santorini would encourage volunteer clean up crews to pick up what is already there. Garbage is so ugly, and most of the plastic that ends up in the ocean is blown there by the wind. Pick it up please!

The following day, I would be leaving Satorini a bit after noon, so there was time to visit the Prehistoric Museum of Ancient Thera, which would mean that I was able to visit 4/4 of the sights that I most wanted to see in Santorini after all. It was a very fine museum! Many of the artefacts come from Ancient Akrotiri so it was perfect to visit here after having seen the archaeological site. The artefacts were displayed chronologically, beginning with an obsidian arrowhead from the Late Neolithic, and these marble figurines from 2800-2400 BC.

There were carved stone vessels, from 2700-2400 BC, and early pottery from 2200-2000 BC.

Then, later pottery such as these ewers, from 1800 BC, beautifully decorated with flying swallows.

Also on display were bronze containers, cooking pans, and tools from around 1700 BC.

Akrotiri’s most famous finds were its wall paintings, such as these found in the West House which featured the large nautical frieze of a sea journey. These images of youths with their catches of fish are reproduced all over Santorini on restaurant signs, souvenirs, and post cards.

Here are just a few more of the very beautiful wall paintings that were found at Akrotiri.

Finally, here is a rare gold item found there – a beautiful ibex which was found inside a wooden box which was inside a clay chest. Archeologists have concluded that the people of Akrotiri had time to flee before the devastating eruption that buried their city as few valuables such as this were found, and also no human remains.

I was so thankful, in the end, to have been able to see all that I most wanted to see in Santorini. It is definitely an island to visit, and I am very glad that I went, but for me once was enough. My next two Cycladic islands, Naxos, and Amorgos (where I am now), however, are places to return to again, if I should be so lucky. Next up, Naxos!

Hits and Misses in Santorini – Greece, 2025

Caldera Views, Fira, Firostefani, The Red Beach, Pyrgos, and Ancient Thera

Santorini is the most visited island in Greece, with over three million visitors annually, in large part because of its stunning and romantic white villages that are perched precariously on dramatic cliffs, one thousand feet above the sea. It is a crescent-shaped island that was once part of a large volcano that had a catacylsmic eruption in 1600 BCE. Known as the Minoan Eruption, the blast created a massive flooded caldera, with Santorini and its sister islands in a circular formation around it.

The northern end of the crescent (to the left) is the site of Oia, Santorini’s most scenic village and the source of its most iconic images of Cycladic architecture, blue-domed churches, and windmills. At the south end of the crescent is the village of Akrotiri, and near the centre, located along the cliff edge, are the main town of Fira and several other villages. I took a Seajets fast ferry from Mykonos to Santorini, and our ferry skirted around the outer two islands (inhabited) at quite a distance so I got just a quick peek in towards central Santorini, where the villages look like snow atop the cliffs.

Public coach buses wait at the port for each ferry arrival so it was an easy matter to stow my bag, hop on, and pay my fare for the thirty minute trip to Fira. My accommodation was only minutes away from the Fira bus station which was very convenient as buses to all parts of the island start and end there. Even though I was so close to the station, and to Fira’s main road and square, my studio with kitchenette was tucked away in a quiet little street. It was a safe, comfortable, and peaceful place to stay for my four nights on Santorini, and I had a lovely little balcony!

I unpacked, shopped for groceries at a nearby market, cooked up a veggie pasta to last a few days, and then, when the sun was beginning to lower, I finally made my way to the caldera’s clifftop edge which was also located just minutes away from my accommodation. I’m almost at the edge,

and this was my first view!

I then looked north towards the next village, Firostefani, and higher up towards the village of Imerovigli, and beyond that, in the far distance, to Oia at the northernmost end of Santorini.

My number one “must do” activity (out of four), while visiting Santorini, was to do the scenic ten kilometre hike along the cliffs from Fira to Oia. I started walking north on the walled path, while I waited for the sunset, and as a little precursor to my planned hike on the following morning. I rose up to about here,

and the views back over Fira were stunning, but there was a problem. I was nervous! There had been so many earthquakes in Santorini only about a month prior to my visit, over 20,000! Most were slight tremors, under 2 on the Richter scale, but they were near-continuous, and many quakes were stronger, with the strongest reaching 5.3. The swarm of quakes was serious enough to have a State of Emergency declared. Schools were closed, and around 16,000 of Santorini’s 20,000 residents evacuated the island until the quakes calmed about six or seven weeks after they began.

Normally, I am not nervous with clifftop hikes, but as I walked I considered that, if a large quake should happen, there was almost nothing that I could do to escape peril, with there being no really safe exit from the path either up or down! I continued climbing, trying to get over my nervousness, and rose higher, with more views back to Fira. The gray zigzag going down the cliff in the photo below is the walkway up from where cruise ship passengers typically are dropped off, and there is also a funicular going up the cliff there, but both have been closed since the earthquakes started and alternate arrangements have been made for the disembarkation of passengers for those cruise ships that are still stopping at Santorini.

The views were spectacular, and soon I could see over towards the eastern side of the island where the land slopes gently down to the sea, in contrast to the high cliffs of the caldera side.

But, I was still feeling anxious. I rose higher, with views ahead to the village of Imerovigli and to the dramatic promontory to its left, Skaros Rock. In the 13th century, a Venetian fortress and settlement of over 200 homes topped Skaros Rock, but volcanic activity and earthquakes over the subsequent centuries caused most of it to fall to the sea below. You can see where my thoughts were!

Sadly, I was not enjoying myself, and I began thinking that I would not do the Fira to Oia hike after all. There was a cold wind blowing, and I was feeling low in both energy and spirits, so I found an exit point and moved away from the cliff edge. Then, quite by accident, I found myself at this iconic viewpoint, overlooking one of Santorini’s most famous blue-domed churches, the Agios Theodori church in Firostefani. That cheered me up a bit,

and also, as I neared Fira once again, the low sun emerged from behind some clouds, and Fira lit up beautifully.

As I walked back to my accommodation, I decided that I would not do the hike the following morning, as I had planned, and that I would go to see Ancient Akrotiri (Number two on my “Must Do” list of four) instead. The following morning, I was feeling surprisingly okay about my decision to not do the hike, and I was eager to visit the the archaeological site of Ancient Akrotiri at the south end of the island. Ancient Akrotiri is also known as the “The Pompei of Greece” because it was where a large and thriving Minoan village was buried under sixty metres of volcanic ash and debris when the Santorini volcano erupted in 1600 BCE. It was one of the largest volcanic eruptions in human history. I took the 8:30 bus and sat on the right hand side to enjoy thrilling views of the caldera as we travelled south. But, when we arrived (myself and two others on the bus), the archaeological site was closed! I had checked the website the night before, and there had been no notice of a closure. Darn and blast! The next bus back to Fira would not arrive for ninety minutes, so I decided to walk to the famous Red Beach, which was not far away. First, I reached the White Beach, with views of the red cliffs ahead,

and then made my way towards the Red Beach which sits below deeply coloured, iron-rich cliffs. The cliffs, as you can see, are prone to large and frequent rockslides, and several signs warn visitors not to visit the beach.

Many do not heed the warnings, but I did. I sat for a while and just enjoyed looking at the sea and I also watched a small flock of swallows swoop and dive all around me. They are so fast!

Then, the couple who had been on the bus arrived, and we spent the next hour talking until it was time to return to Fira. Once there, I decided that I would visit the Prehistoric Museum of Ancient Thera – the museum was #4 on my “Must Do” list for Santorini. I went directly there, only to find that it was closed! There was no sign on the door as to why, and no notice of a closure on its webpage. Now I was 0/3 on my “Must Do in Santorini” list!

I returned to my studio feeling quite disgruntled! I decided to do some laundry, and I ate and puttered and moped, until I grew tired of all that and decided to go for a bus ride up to Pyrgos, which is Santorini’s highest village. It is built atop a hill, and is crowned with the ruins of a walled Venetian fortress, the Kasteli, and many churches. Built to protect against pirate attacks, the hill is a labyrinth of narrow lanes, gateways, staircases, and connected buildings, some of which have been turned into polished villas, and some of which are distinctly aged. The first views, as I began to climb up, were promising!

This is the Agia Theodosia, seen from many different angles as I roamed up, down, and around the hill. The original Agia Theodosia was built in 1639, and renovated in 1857, but it collapsed in the major earthquake of 1956. This new church dates from 1965.

And, this is the beautiful Church of Saint Nicholas which was founded in 1660 and repaired in 1980.

At the very top of the hill, and built upon and amidst very old ruins, was one of those iced-cake churches. It is the church of Theodorakis, or the Dormition of the Virgin Mary. Built in the 10th century, and renovated in 1663, it is one of the oldest churches on Santorini.

I spent a lot of time on the hill, going up and down every passage that I found, and sometimes doubling back. I went around and around, finding interesting sights in every corner, and many echoes of the hill’s Venetian past.

Most of the doorways were no taller than me!

There were also great views out over the island from the top of the hill. This one looks north towards Fira and the very distant Oia.

Here is a zoomed in view.

And, this was this view to the south, towards the highest point on the island at 565 metres above sea level. Upon this rugged mountain is the Monastery of Profitis Ilias Santorini, established in 1711, and there is also a telecommunications tower a little higher up.

I loved my time up on Pyrgos’ Kastelli hill, and my mood was much improved! The following day I decided to go to the beachside town of Kamari to hike up to Ancient Thera (which was #3 on my “Must Do in Santorini” list), even though I had heard that the archaeological site there was also probably closed. I enjoyed the bus ride there, and the approach to the trailhead, though the climb ahead looked a bit daunting! Ancient Thera is located atop a high and steep-sided, flat-topped promontory called Mesa Vouno, and is surrounded on three sides by the sea. Here is a view of the road that snakes its way up to the archaeological site!

I decided to choose the trail, rather than walk the road, and I soon rose up and above the hillside villas below.

The path was a steep zigzagging mix of rough trail, and ancient stepped pathway. Stopping to photograph the flowers gave me an excuse to catch my breath!

About a third of the way up, I reached the Spring of Zoodochus Pigi which was the main water source for the settlement of Ancient Thera. The spring is located in a 26 metre deep cave, and the site is marked with a small chapel.

I continued up higher, and stopped for views down over Kamari,

and across to that crazy road and the promontory of Mesa Vouno beyond.

Rising higher, views suddenly opened up to Profitis Ilias, with its monastery and the communications tower that I had seen the previous evening from Pyrgos, though from the other side.

There were now also views down to the town of Perissa which is located on the other side of Mesa Vouno. One can also hike up to Ancient Thera from there.

After about another fifteen minutes of climbing, I reached the admissions gate of Ancient Thera and, surprise, surprise, surprise, it was open! I was so happy! I entered the site, passed the ruins of a Temple to Aphrodite, and then rose up to this 9th or 10th century church of Agios Stefanos, which was built on the site of a 6th century Early Christian basilica.

Off to the left, the path continued to climb, (There were three young French tourists who had arrived at the site just as I did. One of their party is just topping the rise of the trail.)

and from there it rose to ever greater views down to Kamari, with its long black sand beach, and also to views of Santorini’s airport runway.

I was very happy with my climb so far, and then this happened!

A staircase of wildflowers! There had been wildflowers scattered here and there all along the trail as I rose, including my first sightings in Greece of bright yellow gorse, and fragrant thyme (blooming purple), but this was so unexpected! And there were many very pretty pink poppies in and amongst their red cousins. The flowery staircase became a flowery trail as I rose,

and then I finally reached the flat top of the mesa, with its wide, principal street that ran for 800 metres to the far end of the promontory. Most of the remains here date from a 9th century BCE settlement of colonists from Sparta whose king was named Theras. With ports down at both Kamari and Perissa, they traded with Athens, Corinth, Ionia, and Rhodes. The site was taken over by the Romans in the first century AD, and then by later civilizations until it was abandoned in 726 when the Santorini volcano had an eruption that covered the city with a light layer of pumice.

These are the remains of a stoa in what was once the Agora,

and this is thought to have been a private house, named the House of Tyche, after fragments of a statue of the goddess Tyche (Fortune) were found here.

Near the Agora was this theatre which could seat 1,500. What a setting!

I continued along the mesa towards the far end where many of the temples had been located. The area was flooded with yellow, and yellow and white, crown daisies! I had seen many photos of Ancient Thera when doing my research for this trip, and the ruins were always very hard to discern because the building stones are of the same limestone as the mountain itself. Everything just blended into an ill-defined mass of grey, and I wondered if the site was worth visiting, but today, at this time of year, the mass of daisies helped to delineate and define the architectural spaces. And, at the very least, is was absolutely beautiful!

The air hummed with the sound of bees, there was a fresh and enlivening breeze, and I sat and watched blue-backed swallows swoop and swerve all around at speed. It all made the experience of being here incredibly rich and exciting, and I felt very grateful indeed.

I returned, slowly, back to the flowery staircase, and enjoyed it all over again,

and then I made my way out of the archaeological site. I thought that I might return via the road, but decided to hike down. There is the lower part of the trail, in the centre of the photo, zigzagging down the steep rocky slope.

And here’s a closer view, after I had descended past the chapel. Going down was much quicker that going up!

I had time to visit Kamari’s black sand beach near the base of Mesa Vuono,

and then I returned to Fira, very very happy with my time up at Ancient Thera. As I passed by the Prehistoric Museum of Ancient Thera I saw that it was open, and I went to ask whether they would be open the following day. The answer was “yes”, (they had been closed the day before because of a strike that affected many federal workers as well as all air and rail travel!), and I asked when Ancient Akrotiri would be opening, and they said, “Tomorrow.” Hooray! That evening, near sundown, I made my way again to the caldera’s edge to look south,

and north,

and directly out to sea.

After some Santorini hits and misses, or, more accurately, some misses then hits, I was beginning to think that I might do the Fira to Oia hike after all.

Note: The first photo of this post, of Santorini from the air, is not one of mine and I don’t know who to credit!

Across to Delos – Greece, 2025

Delos Archaeological Site and Museum, Bonnie’s Windmill, and a Mykonos Deluge!

My principal reason to visit Mykonos was to take a day trip to the important archaeological site that is the island of Delos, located a thirty minute ferry ride away from Mykonos town. There was only one daily ferry departure and return on offer from Delos Tours, because it is still low season, so I would have a total time of three hours on the island rather than the five which is needed to see all of the archaeology, but I was happy nonetheless.

The mood was festive on the boat which was fully loaded as it pulled away from the Old Port. All around me, on the open upper deck, was an excited group of Mykonos Boy and Girl Scouts, ranging in age from about 6 to 16, accompanied by their leaders and many proud parents. They were on their way, with an organization called “All About Blue”, to do a garbage clean up on Delos. I spoke with two of the All About Blue leaders, and learned about some of the environmental education work that their group is involved in. After we docked on Delos, I saw that All About Blue also had a dive team on site to do underwater clean up!

After paying my admission fee, I headed in the opposite direction of the many passengers who had paid for a guided tour. They would follow the blue route towards the ancient religious centre, so I turned to follow the green route through the residential and commercial district, in order to avoid the crowd and to be amongst the first to climb up onto Mt. Kynthos, the island’s highest point (visible in the distance in the photo below).

The green route took me through an expanse of ruins that date from the later history of this small, but culturally and strategically important island. For almost a millennium, Delos was a sacred spiritual centre where pilgrims came to honour the gods, and in particular the twins Apollo and Artemis who were believed to have been born here. Then, in 167 BC, under the Romans, Delos became a free port, and it grew quickly into an important trading centre with a population of over 30,000. Sadly, a great portion of that trade was in slaves. I wound my way among the ruins of the shops and houses of the merchants and traders who came here from all over the known world including from Greece, the Middle East, and all parts of the Mediterranean.

Builders and artisans came too, and some of the homes here on Delos were among the largest built in Greece and featured central courtyards surrounded by marble columns, and elaborate floor mosaics (some of which, unfortunately, were covered with landscaping cloth when I visited).

I passed the ruins of a theatre,

and nearby I heard a very loud croak, from the depths of a large cistern, and from what was likely a very large frog. It sounded like a duck!

It was a glorious day, and I must admit that I quickly became more obsessed with the wildflowers than with the archaeology and history. I know that I have gone on and on in these posts about wildflowers, but it was truly stunning!

There were bees and butterflies all around, and small lizards darted among the stones of the ruins.

I loved this path, lined with red poppies, and purple geraniums and statice! First going up, and then turning to look back down.

I then rose up out of the residential district to this view of the path ahead to Kynthos,

but there were also temple ruins to the left,

so I was drawn there first. These are the remains of the Temple of Hera,

and of the Sanctuary of the Egyptian Gods.

I returned to the other trail, and to the start of the stone steps that lead up onto Mt. Kynthos. There was one long zig,

and then one long zag!

Only one other person had chosen to travel this route ahead of me. There he is at the top of the stairs!

And here is a view from the top, looking west down over a good portion of the archaeological site, and towards the beach and harbour.

This view looks towards the northern part of the island where the brown route (if one has five hours on the island to do all three routes), takes visitors past the ruins of a hippodrome, a gymnasium, a stadium and stadium quarter, a synagogue, and a temple dedicated to Anios, the mythical founder of Delos.

I began my descent,

and then turned to look back up the mountain after I had passed by the Sanctuary of the Egyptian Gods. The earliest settlers on Delos (c. 2500 BC), built their dwellings atop the hill, and almost 1700 years later, the Ancient Greeks built temples there to honour Athena and Zeus.

The wildflowers continued,

as did the archaeology,

and then, after a wonderful walk through another flowery meadow (looking forward and then back),

l arrived at the newly renovated museum. I breezed through quite quickly, past the statues, (though I did linger a bit longer at the one on the right!),

and past the fragments of wall paintings and mosaics, and other exhibits.

I was eager to be back outside where I then spent time exploring the extensive ruins of the religious centre of Delos.

I really like this next photo which captures all that I loved about being on Delos – the flowers, the ruins, and the mountain.

There was a bit of time left to visit the beautiful beach,

before I returned to the pier where the youngest Scouts were exclaiming over the finds made by the dive team.

It had been a spectacular morning on Delos, and I didn’t really want to leave! Nevertheless, I enjoyed the boat ride back, and after we returned to Mykonos,

I spent the afternoon in my lovely apartment making lunch, doing some laundry, sorting through photos, and chatting with a neighbour in the courtyard. Then, in the evening, I headed out into the old town to explore lanes that I hadn’t already explored, and to rise up the hill to visit Bonnie’s Windmill which is part of a Folk Museum. There was a great view from there down over the town and towards Windmill Row.

I enjoyed my walk back down the hill as the low sun shone warm light onto the buildings of Mykonos,

and when I reached the harbour I sat for a while on one of the benches for this sunset view.

My last day, though, on Mykonos, was an entirely different story! My original plan had been to travel to the town of Ano Mera, in the centre of the island, to visit a 16th century monastery with a lovely garden, and then to walk from Ano Mera to the southwest coast to explore several of Mykonos’ famous golden sand beaches. There was only one bus going to Ano Mera on that day, at one p.m., and one bus back four hours later, with no buses from the beach area, so I revised my plans accordingly. The morning was overcast, windy, and chilly, so I stayed inside until it was time to head to the Old Port for my bus. Rain started to fall just as I was leaving, and my umbrella was no match for the strong wind, but I was determined to stick with my plan. I stopped for a quick picture of Little Venice as I passed,

and then continued to the Old Port (where I had arrived on the Sea Bus and taken the boat to Delos), but I couldn’t find the bus stop, and was soon told that it was across the bay, “at the Old Port”. Yikes! I had only five minutes left so I hustled all the way across the harbour front promenade, and around where I asked, four times, “where is the bus stop for Ano Mera?”, and I was pointed, four times, in a different direction! I think that I saw the back end of what might have been my bus head up a hill out out of sight several blocks away. Oh well! Here was my view from the Old Port, across the harbour to the Old Port, as I realized that I would not get to see more of the island of Mykonos.

Then, the rain really started to come down, and within minutes the paved streets were filled wirh streams of water running to the sea, and some of those streams were starting to turn into inches-deep and fast-flowing rivers, while some staircases, as I made my way through the Old Town, had turned into waterfalls. No wonder there had been flooding on Mykonos and Paros the previous week, with nowhere for the water to go but down every hard-surfaced wall, slope, and street. The previous week’s heavy rains had caused a state of emergency to be declared and schools to be closed. Paros was hit the hardest, where more rain fell over the course of a couple of hours than would normally fall in an entire month. (There are some very dramatic videos on YouTube of cars being swept down city streets in the town of Naoussa, on Paros, in the deep and muddy fast flowing rivers that formed.)

I gave up trying to stay on the slightly shallower edges of the street rivers, and walked right through the centre of them as my boots were already completely soaked. I went as quicky as I could back to my accommodation, turned the heat on high, peeled off my sopping clothes, and spent the entire rest of the day inside, safely warm and dry. It is just as well that I did not catch that bus to Ano Mera as the heavy rain continued all afternoon, and during the previous week’s flooding, roads on Mykonos had, reportedly, “broken”!

So, sadly, because of the deluge, I didn’t get to see any part of Mykonos other than it’s main town, Chora, and of course Delos, on my three day visit. But, the following morning, Mykonos was kind enough to send me off with sunshine and blue skies as I left my apartment and walked, with my backpack, down the trail to my chapel, then past the windmills and Little Venice, and on to the Sea Bus which ferried me on a calm and sparkling sea to the New Port for my ferry trip to Santorini. I was very glad, indeed, that I had included a trip to Mykonos, and across to the very special island of Delos, on my first trip to Greece.

Full disclosure: Mt. Kynthos is only 375 feet high, so really more of a tall hill, but it did look and feel like a mountain!

Also, as well as seeing many small lizards among the ruins (though each briefly as they are very fast and timid), I also saw a very large Agama lizard, probably about 30 centimetres long. He was quite a surprise, and looked very much like a mini dinosaur!

Charming Mykonos – Greece, 2025

Mykonos Old Town and Harbour, Windmill Row, and Little Venice

From Delphi I took the public coach bus to Athens, and then the metro to Piraeus which is Athen’s busy harbour and port which serves cruise ships, ferries, and container ships. I was delayed by almost two hours in getting to Piraeus as there was a road cycle race happening in Delphi, but I enjoyed my time waiting in the sun and speaking again with my U.K. friend as well as three young lads from northern Sweden who were travelling throughout Greece and the Balkans. When I did arrive in Piraeus, in the late afternoon, thunderstorms had built up yet again, bringing rain, so I spent most of my time in my small hotel room, except for two short outings to find an inexpensive dinner, and to walk around one of Piraeus’ two marinas that are filled with sailboats and very large and very fancy yachts. I had an early night, and woke before six in order to catch my Blue Star ferry to Mykonos. It was exciting to be boarding my first Greek ferry, to take me to my first Greek island! Here is my ship, the Blue Star Paros, and the view as we left Piraeus harbour at sunrise.

The six-hour voyage went smoothly, and more quickly than expected, as I chatted for a long time with three Greek teenagers from Corinth who were on a school trip to Syros. They were bright, curious, friendly, and keen to practice their excellent English, and they all had the most beautiful eyes! Hello to George, Melina, and Panagiotis (please forgive me if I have spelled your name wrong as I no longer have my note papers!).

My accommodation provider had warned me that buses were not yet running on Mykonos, so I was faced with either a four kilometre walk into town with my backpack, or having to pay around fifteen Euro for a taxi. But, luckily for me, the Sea Bus from the New Port to the Old Port in town was running, and for only two Euro I got a wonderful, mini sea cruise! As we sailed, I took photos of a large cruise ship, and several ferries (including the Paros), that were docked at the New Port.

Here are two views of our approach into beautiful Mykonos town, also known as Chora.

I headed off to find my accommodation, guided by google through a warren of small streets and alleyways, and I couldn’t resist taking a few photos en route.

My accommodation, at the Secret Garden Apartments, was wonderful!

I was warmly welcomed and I knew that I would love staying here. The photo on the right, of my little entrance way and sitting area, was the view out of my window!

The Secret Garden grounds were beautiful, peaceful, and inspiring!

After dropping off my things, I headed straight back out to happily get a little lost in the winding streets of Chora.

I loved the white Cycladic buildings with bright blue trim, the staircases, balconies, and painted walkways, and I passed so many churches and chapels. Chora has over ninety of them, and the small island of Mykonos reputedly has over six hundred! Most are family-owned, and were built in honour of a namesake saint, often to give thanks for the safe return of a loved one from the sea. I liked this chapel, where the rough stone of a connecting wall is left unpainted.

Some buildings (but very few) that I passed were in quite a state, but even they were oddly beautiful too.

I made my way to the Church of Panagia Paraportiani. It is actually a grouping of five small interconnected churches, the first of which was built in the early 13th century at the gate of a walled Venetian fortress which is now long gone. The unique structure gave the impression of being coated in a thick layer of bright white cake icing!

I then made my way to Windmill Row where six windmills are set on a low ridge by the sea. There are sixteen windmills in total on Mykonos, most of which were built by the Venetians in the 15th and 16th centuries to grind grain.

Across the small bay from Windmill Row is Little Venice, a series of Venetian-era buildings that now function as seaside hotels, bars, and restaurants.

The buildings are at the mercy of waves during days of particularly high tides and winds.

I walked across to Little Venice and turned for this view back to Windmill Row,

and then I ventured back into the labyrinth of alleyways, past small shops selling souvenirs, jewellery, art and clothing. There were cafes and tavernas, and luckily I came across an excellent bakery, Prozymi’s, which I visited more than once! Nearby was the harbour of the Old Port, and this is the Church of Saint Nicholas, the patron Saint of sailors and fishermen.

I walked out onto the adjacent pier for a closer look at these bright red fishing boats,

and over on the town’s waterfront promenade, people were strolling, dining at restaurants, and enjoying the sea view from conveniently-placed benches.

I returned to my accommodation, having planned to buy groceries at a nearby market, but it was closed unexpectedly so I was forced to dine at a casual and friendly eatery. Not a problem! I returned to my apartment, and as it neared sunset, I decided to walk the short trail that led from the Secret Garden down to the sea. And, just two minutes later, I was here!

A wide stone-paved path led, in just a few more minutes, up to Windmill Row! It was a surprise short cut!

I walked across to Little Venice,

where people were gathering for a drink or a meal and to watch the sunset.

I chose a quieter spot, by the windmills, to watch the event,

as did this kitty, very like my cat Comet, who watched the sunset from, what I now called, “my chapel”.

It had been a great first day, on my first Greek island, in charming and beautiful Mykonos.

Greece, Spring 2025

Delphi Archaeological Site and Museum – The Centre of the World!

Delphi, home of the Oracle, was considered to be the centre of the world by the ancient Greeks and was their most important gathering place. According to Greek mythology, Zeus released two eagles from opposite ends of the earth and determined that where they met, here at Delphi, was the “naval” of the earth. Apollo was worshipped here at the temple and sanctuary that were built in his honour, and it was believed that a prophetess, known as the Oracle or the Pythia, could act as an intermediary between Apollo and the pilgrims who came seeking his advice. Delphi was visited by pilgrims from all over Greece and from distant lands. Socrates came here, as well as the Kings Midas and Croesus, and also Pluto, Plutarch, the Emperor Nero, and Alexander the Great, among others. I made my approach to the site as they all would have done, rising up along the Sacred Way. My first stop was to view what remains of the Roman Agora, with its typical Roman brickwork,

and then I passed the Treasury of Athens which was one of a number of treasuries at Delphi that stored the gold, jewels, ivory statues, bronze objects, and other valuables that were brought to Delphi as gifts to the gods.

The treasuries were built by kings and powerful city states as thanks to the gods for their successes, often in war. The Athenian treasury, for example, was built to commemorate the Athenian victory over the Persians at the Battle of Marathon in 490 BC.

Here are the slender Ionic columns which were once part of the 100-foot-long Athenian stoa, and the large Doric columns of the Temple of Apollo are visible on the terrace above.

This is the entrance to the grand Temple of Apollo where pilgrims, accompanied by priests, would enter to consult the Oracle. The lowest price of admission was a loaf of bread, while some sacrificed an animal, some gave items of great value, and some granted freedom to a slave or slaves. One hundred bulls would be sacrificed to open the Pythian games.

Here is a view from the far end of the temple which measured almost sixty metres long and which housed a giant golden statue of Apollo. The Temple was the centrepiece of Delphi, and a place of centuries-old religious ritual and ceremony.

I made my way up to Delphi’s 5,000 seat theatre, taking photos back to Apollo’s temple as I went.

I loved how the gray stones and reddish columns of the temple echo the colours of the surrounding mountains.

I reached the theatre,

and continued higher,

and higher,

and all the way up and around to the centre top of the theatre for this amazing view of Delphi.

What a stunning setting! I continued up several more terraced levels,

to rise to the site of Delphi’s stadium which I had seen from above on my hike the previous day. There is a 700 foot elevation gain from the entrance of the archaeological site up to the stadium!

The stadium could seat 7,000, with special seating for the judges in the centre. Every four years Delphi hosted the Pythian games, which were second only to the games held in Olympia. Athletes and spectators came from all over Greece to watch the week-long sporting competitions that were held during the middle of a three-month truce between the often warring Greek city-states.

My climb to the top done, I slowly made my way back down and then stopped halfway to sit for a long while in the sun and speak with a fellow from the U.K. who had been on the bus with me. A gardener who loves plants, history, and sacred spaces like stone circles and pilgrimage sites, we were rather like kindred spirits! We talked about some of the local trees, flowers, and herbs, and I recommended that he do the E4 hike above the town. A little later, I met a German couple who, like me, were photographing flowers, and when I mentioned the E4 hike they broke into big smiles as they had already done the hike. “The bees! The butterflies!”, they exclaimed. Here are some of the glorious Spring flowers that made my visit to the ruins of Delphi even more special.

I took my time as I descended, reading information panels and taking more photos, including this new view of the Temple of Apollo.

The rectangular column on the right is the Pillar of Prusias II which was once topped by a statue of a Turkish king who travelled here to consult the oracle. All of Delphi was studded with statues and with tall pillars and columns topped by large and impressive sculptures, such as the Acanthus Column of Dancers or the Sphinx of Naxos (both in the museum). The Greek city states would try to outdo each other with the monuments that they gifted to Delphi in order to enhance their prestige and demonstrate their wealth and power.

I was thrilled with my visit to the Delphi Archaeological site and I decided to go back to my hotel for a break before viewing the museum. As I entered the town, I stopped once more to look at this stunning view down into the valley.

I took out my phone to take a photo to text to Brent, but my 20 Euro admission ticket, which I still needed to enter the museum, came out of my purse with my phone and, caught by the wind, it fluttered down over the stone wall to land twenty feet below. “Oh no, no, no, no, no!” I cried as I watched it fall.

A young lad came immediately over to help. The wall wasn’t scalable, so he walked several hundred metres down the road to gain access to the hill, and then he waded through high meadow grasses on a steep slope to rescue my ticket. I tried to offer him 10 Euro as thanks, but he refused, and he smiled a big smile when I called him a hero.

Back at the hotel, my break lasted longer than expected as an afternoon thunderstorm developed and brought heavy rain. I was so glad that I had visited the archaeological site early in the morning!

The rain did not let up so I finally dug out my rain jacket and umbrella and made my way to the museum in the late afternoon where I had the place almost entirely to myself. It was a wonderful museum, beautifully presented. Here are several of the larger statues that were found at Delphi: the Sphinx of Naxos, gifted by the Naxians around 570 BC, and the Twin Kouros statues gifted by the town of Argos, c. 600-580 BC.

Here are the remains of a frieze from the east side of the Siphnian Treasury (gifted by the island of Siphnos). It depicts a battle between Apollo and Heracles for the possession of the tripod of Delphi upon which the Oracle sat.

This is a close up of the two gods each pulling on the tripod,

and this is a famous detail from the north frieze, of the same treasury, which depicts a battle between the Greek gods and a race of Giants.

There were smaller items on display as well in the museum, and two of my favourites were the Mycenaean figurines (1400-1050 BC), and a beautifully illustrated plate featuring a seated Apollo, crowned with myrtle leaves, pouring wine and holding his lyre.

As I left the museum, the rain had slowed to a trickle so I decided to take a walk down the road to view the Sanctuary of Athena (the columns in the distance) and the gymnasium where athletes trained for the Pythian games (to the left).

The Sanctuary of Athena was closed when I got there, and the site was obscured by trees, so I walked a good distance farther on the road in order to get this view from the other side. It was the best shot I could manage!

As I began the return walk, the rain stopped altogether, the sky began to clear, and the sun shone as I passed the Kastalian Spring where the pilgrims to Delphi would wash to purify themselves before consulting the oracle. The spring originates in a dramatic cleft of rock.

As I rose back up to the town, I looked back to see that a rainbow had formed over the valley.

I had not brought any valuable gifts or grand tributes with me to Delphi, but it had certainly gifted me with its stunning ruins, its long and fascinating history, and its absolutely spectacular landscape and views.

Thank you Delphi!