A Monumental First Day (Literally)! The Acropolis, Hadrian’s Arch, The Temple of Olympian Zeus, The Roman Forum and Tower of the Winds, and a quintet of historic Athenian churches

After a very long day and night of travel without sleep, I arrived tired but still happy at my small airbnb in the Pangrati neighbourhood near the centre of Athens. I settled in, and then retired early for a good long sleep. Doves were cooing outside my window at dawn, and I awoke refreshed and excited – I was off to see the Acropolis this morning! The thirty minute walk first took me through the welcoming green space of the National Gardens. I passed the Zappeion Hall which was built in the 1880s for use as an exhibition hall and as a ceremonial space for the first modern Olympic Games.

The park was quiet and peaceful, and the air was scented with pine and the perfume of orange trees in blossom. There were also big ripe oranges on those trees, and I was surprised and delighted when a small flock of green parrots flew overhead! Out of the park, I turned to walk along busy Vassilissis Amalias Avenue where I passed these Roman Bath ruins.

Athens was under Roman occupation and rule for nearly 500 years beginning in the 1st century BC. I next reached Hadrian’s Arch which was built by the emperor Hadrian in 131 AD. The Acropolis hill is framed in the centre of the arch, visible in the distance behind the white building.

And, near to the arch are the grounds of the Temple of Olympian Zeus which was begun in the mid-500s BC by the Greeks, but was not completed until some 700 years later by the Romans under Hadrian. It was the largest temple ever built in Greece and featured 104 colossal columns, each more than fifty feet high. Now, only 14 columns remain, most of which are currently surrounded by scaffolding as conservation work takes place (to the left in the photo below).

Soon I reached the pedestrian street that curves from east to west along the base of Acropolis Hill. Here are some of my first views up to the Parthenon and then up to the Temple of Athena Nike.

I continued around to enter the Acropolis from the west gate and enroute I passed the back wall of the Odeon of Herodes Atticus, a 5,000-seat amphitheatre which was built during the Roman era. The theatre was reconstructed in the 1950s and hosts music, dance, and theatre performances every summer. I was able to peek into the theatre, and later view it from above when I was atop the Acropolis.

Soon I reached the west gate where others were already waiting for our 8 a.m. entry time. Tickets to the Acropolis now have timed entries in order to limit the overcrowding that has plagued the site, and luckily for me guests with printed paper tickets were let in before those with tickets on their phones so I was one of the first to be let in! It was exciting to climb up the curving, marble-lined path, and then to arrive at the steep stairs that lead up to the grand Propylaea entrance gate.

The two photos on the right above were taken later in the morning after the hazy sky had cleared to a beautiful blue. I love the photo below of the tiny but beautiful Temple of Athena Nike, with its elegant Ionic columns, which is located to the right of the grand entrance gate.

This is my first photo of the Parthenon, considered by many to be the finest temple of the ancient world. Built between 447 and 438 BC, at the highest point on the Acropolis hill, the temple was dedicated to Athena and also served as a treasury of Athens.

And, here are later photos of the Parthenon, from after the haze cleared and from different vantage points. The white sections on the columns are where restorations have been made using marble that comes from the same quarry as the original stone. They will become golden-coloured with time. (A reminder that you can click on any photo to see an enlargement.)

The Erechtheion is another temple on the Acropolis and was built soon after the Parthenon, between 421 and 406. Dedicated to both Athena and Poseidon, this temple features Ionic columns and the Porch of the Caryatids. The Caryatids are six elegant female sculptures that act as structural supports. They are said to be modeled after the noble women of Karyai, near Sparta.

The Acropolis (which means “high city”) has been been in use for many thousands of years, including as a fortress for the Myceneans in the 14th century BC. It is a natural fortress site, with its 100 foot high sheer cliffs and its far-reaching views across the land and to the sea. Here is a view from the eastern end of the Acropolis, looking across towards Lycabettus Hill, Athen’s tallest. Modern Athens, a city of more than three million, sprawls off into the distance in this and every direction.

Here is a view looking to the northwest. The large green space is the site of the Ancient Agora, with the temple of Hephaestus clearly visible near its centre.

This is a view from the south side of the Acropolis, looking down to the Theatre of Dionyisus and beyond.

And, here is a zoomed-in shot of the Theatre of Dionysus which seated 17,000 persons.

Finally, here is the view to the west, looking across to wooded Filopappos Hill and beyond to the Agean Sea (just barely visible on the horizon in my photo).

I was so lucky to be atop the Acropolis while the site was not yet crowded, and I managed to take many people-free photos. I do like this photo though,

as the line of incoming visitors gives a small hint of what it might have been like during the times of the Panathenaic Festivals when a long procession of Athenians would rise up onto the Acropolis to bring gifts and make sacrifices to honour the goddess Athena.

I exited the Acropolis from the south gate and briefly considered visiting the new and striking Acropolis Museum which houses statuary, reliefs, and other artefacts rescued from the site, but it was a fine day and I decided to save that visit for another time. I continued along the pedestrian path near the base of the Acropolis and around to the north side. On my left was the lovely green expanse of the Ancient Agora, and then I arrived at views of the ruins of the Roman Forum below. Beautiful!

On the edge of the ruins was the Tower of the Winds, an octagonal structure built around 50 BC that functioned as one of the world’s first known clock towers. Equipped on the exterior with a weather vane and sundials, inside there was a sophisticated water clock which allowed for accurate measurements of time!

Next, I passed the ruins of Hadrian’s Library,

and from there, I explored several of the small streets and alleyways of the Plaka neighbourhood that are filled with tavernas, cafes, and tourist shops. Typically very busy in the evenings, and at the height of the tourist season, they were still quiet on this day before noon.

I was headed towards Syntagma Square when I came upon the 11th century Kapnikarea church which is located in a small square and encircled by high-end shops and hotels. It is one of Athen’s oldest churches.

It was very atmospheric and I sat for a while to admire the domed cieling, the symmetry of the architecture, and the artistry of the woodworking and paintings. Then I rested outside in the sun next to the church and consulted my map. A cathedral was close by so I decided to visit there, but I went in the wrong direction and arrived at another church instead. The Temple of Agia Irini is a very beautiful church, and it was incredibly peaceful inside, with no other visitors and with the lovely smell of incense in the air. The light shone brightly through deeply-colored stained glass.

I then consulted my map again and easily found my way to the Mitropolis Cathedral located just a few blocks away. Built in the mid 19th century, the cathedral is situated on a large and pleasing square. Like the previous churches, its interior was elaborately ornate and highly decorated with frescoes, gilded paintings, and also many images and objects made of hammered silver.

Located beside the cathedral was the teeny tiny Church of Theotokos Gorgoepikoos. Built on the site of an ancient temple, this 12th century church was constructed using stones and ancient carved stone reliefs found from sites around Athens. I loved this tiny, simple, and very elegant church which can fit only about a dozen worshippers shoulder to shoulder. As in the cathedral, some of the visitors who entered here crossed themselves and lit candles as a way to honour loved ones or to send their prayers.

I continued to Syntagma Square, first to buy a sim card for my phone, and then to view the Greek Parliament buildings and the changing of the guard. It took awhile to set up the phone, I was beginning to feel tired, and Syntagma Square was now very busy with people and traffic including many huge tourist buses. I could see the start of the National Gardens park off to my right and it looked much more appealing than being amongst the crowds so I decided to head that way and return home for an afternoon rest.

A block from my accommodation I came across yet another beautiful church, the Church of Saint Spyridon Stadio, built in 1903 in the Byzantine style.

I was glad to have entered, but I was now more than ready for my rest! Thankfully, my accommodation was cool, quiet, and homey – a perfect place for my five night stay in Athens. I had a good rest, and then I explored my local neighbourhhood, bought groceries, cooked up a pasta dinner, and celebrated with a glass of Greek wine. It had been a fabulous first day in Athens, with so many ancient monuments to see and learn about, and also many beautiful and historic churches to discover. I went to sleep greatly looking forward to the days ahead!